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New warmflow oil condenser boiler keeps cutting out

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  • 24-10-2020 7:50pm
    #1
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭


    We got a brand new warmflow oil condenser boiler fitted in June. It has been cutting out intermittently ever since. We have had the plumber back out several times but he cannot seem to find a problem. The boiler works fine for maybe 2 weeks at a time and will then just stop working. He originally said it was air locked and it worked fine for a week or so after being bled before the same problem arose. Each time it happens it seems to be follow bad weather either wet or windy. Sometimes it resolves itself when its bled and other times it just randomly starts working after a day or 2. Could this be caused by an electrical fault or is it more likely to be a problem with the boiler? Thanks in advance


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    #2
    Vestiapx
    Registered Users Posts: 985 ✭✭✭Vestiapx


    If you paid the plumber to fit it then it's his issue


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    #3
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Is it tripping out, ie do you have to press a reset button, it may also be cutting out on high water temperature which needs a different reset, the first is burner failure.


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    #4
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    Vestiapx wrote: »
    If you paid the plumber to fit it then it's his issue

    He's telling us now it seems to be electrical but we're not convinced as the boiler fires up but cuts out before it actually heats the house or water? There was an exposed wire near the boiler which has been sealed just wondering if it could cause the issue


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    #5
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    John.G wrote: »
    Is it tripping out, ie do you have to press a reset button, it may also be cutting out on high water temperature which needs a different reset, the first is burner failure.

    No the reset button doesn't illuminate or work when pressed. He told us to use the air lock reset on top which works sometimes but not others? The pipes on top of the boiler are all hot to touch but nothing circulating to the house


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    #6
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Can or have you bled any air out of the boiler/rads,
    That sounds like a water high temperature limit stat reset.
    Is the circulating pump located in the boiler itself and can you see what the speed settings are or/and take a photo of it and post it, also can you turn the boiler temperature stat down to minimum.
    Also does you system have zoning, ie a programmer and roomstats/cylinder stats and are all the zone (motorised) valves opening.

    Also if a sealed system ensure boiler gauge at 1.5 bar.


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    #7
    ShaneC1600
    Registered Users Posts: 212 ✭✭ShaneC1600


    Was the boiler commissioned after it was installed?


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    #8
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,213 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    530494.jpg
    Is it the button behind that black cover that you have to press to get it going?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #9
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭jimf


    did you have a new circulating pump fitted as well as the boiler

    if no then you possibly have an intermittent faulty pump


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    #10
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    I recon he has fitted the pump the wrong way around


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    #11
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Also just noticed, Saturday night, bank holiday weekend, and me, Jim, Wearb, Shane and John are all here online.......god we need to get lives


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    #12
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭jimf


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Also just noticed, Saturday night, bank holiday weekend, and me, Jim, Wearb, Shane and John are all here online.......god we need to get lives

    lets all meet at murrays in 2 hours for a party better bring our own drink


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    #13
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    I bet ya it's old or cheap as pump.


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    #14
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    John.G wrote: »
    Can or have you bled any air out of the boiler/rads,
    That sounds like a water high temperature limit stat reset.
    Is the circulating pump located in the boiler itself and can you see what the speed settings are or/and take a photo of it and post it, also can you turn the boiler temperature stat down to minimum.
    Also does you system have zoning, ie a programmer and roomstats/cylinder stats and are all the zone (motorised) valves opening.

    Also if a sealed system ensure boiler gauge at 1.5 bar.

    No idea if the circulating pump is in the boiler I'll try post a few pictures of all we can see when open it. The rads have been bled and allnhave their own temperature setting on them all set to max. They all work fine when the heating works. No zones all we have is a switch in the hotpress replaced the same time as the boiler to switch from heating rads and water to just heat water during the summer. We haven't touched it since we started having problems to see if it was it causing the problem but it doesn't seem to be


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    #15
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    ShaneC1600 wrote: »
    Was the boiler commissioned after it was installed?

    Yea it was commissioned but just got a print out from the machine


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    #16
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    Wearb wrote: »
    530494.jpg
    Is it the button behind that black cover that you have to press to get it going?

    There is no button like,that I'm trying to upload photos of the boiler but internet connection not great


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    #17
    jimf
    Registered Users Posts: 3,950 ✭✭✭jimf


    the warmflow stat is different its more rectangular graded from 1 to 5


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    #18
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    No idea if the circulating pump is in the boiler I'll try post a few pictures of all we can see when open it. The rads have been bled and allnhave their own temperature setting on them all set to max. They all work fine when the heating works. No zones all we have is a switch in the hotpress replaced the same time as the boiler to switch from heating rads and water to just heat water during the summer. We haven't touched it since we started having problems to see if it was it causing the problem but it doesn't seem to be

    Heres some pictures


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    #19
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    Heres some pictures

    .


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    #20
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    .

    .


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    #21
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    .

    .


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    #22
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    needtoknowasap wrote: »
    There is no button like,that I'm trying to upload photos of the boiler but internet connection not great

    Its the red valve at the top of the picture you have to turn to release the airlock


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    #23
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Re third photo in post #20, it might appear to me that that pump is pumping downwards, can you check for a arrow on the pump body, if not take a photo of the bottom of the pump as we can see then where the suction is.

    The red valve is the boiler PRV (safety) valve, normally should only have to use this after refilling system to vent air.

    Also why is the thermostat in turned to max?, turn it down to mid scale.


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    #24
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Pump shouldn't be fitted facing up either.

    Personally id switch the pump to manual flow. Dabs system is terrible for going too low imo


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    #25
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Its on constant curve (fixed speed) speed 3 I think?.


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    #26
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    John.G wrote: »
    Re third photo in post #20, it might appear to me that that pump is pumping downwards, can you check for a arrow on the pump body, if not take a photo of the bottom of the pump as we can see then where the suction is.

    The red valve is the boiler PRV (safety) valve, normally should only have to use this after refilling system to vent air.

    Also why is the thermostat in turned to max?, turn it down to mid scale.

    Even if the pump is on upside down why would it work for 2 to 3 weeks at a time and then suddenly stop? The lights on the evosta2 which I'm presuming is the pump you refer to light up with the 3 bars when turned on but then time out and disappear leaving only the top light on if you get me.


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    #27
    jenneyk19
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 54 ✭✭jenneyk19


    plumber needs to hire some one that can fix boilers also you have to register to get their 7 year warranty

    boilerguide.co.uk/manufacturers/warmflow/repair-advice


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    #28
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    It could work (I have seen one pumping the wrong way for 8 years) but the thermostat is then measuring the return temperature, the boiler is then raising this by another 15 to 25c, and with the stat turned full up will mean that the hi limit stat would certainly operate fairly often.
    Will get back to you re pump, can you try and establish the arrow direction or a photo of the pump bottom.


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    #29
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    John.G wrote: »
    Its on constant curve (fixed speed) speed 3 I think?.

    Is the flat like not fixed curve. Round line proportional?

    It's much harder for pumps to push out air if they are fitted that way. Especially combined with proportional setting


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    #30
    John.G
    Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    No, proportional is the "45 deg" line, constant pressure is the "90 deg* straight line(s) and the "curves" are like traditional pump curves, ie traditional fixed speed curves.


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    #31
    needtoknowasap
    Registered Users Posts: 45 ✭needtoknowasap


    John.G wrote: »
    It could work (I have seen one pumping the wrong way for 8 years) but the thermostat is then measuring the return temperature, the boiler is then raising this by another 15 to 25c, and with the stat turned full up will mean that the hi limit stat would certainly operate fairly often.
    Will get back to you re pump, can you try and establish the arrow direction or a photo of the pump bottom.[/quot

    Ok thanks as you can probably tell we have no clue about boilers hence why we paid good money to get it replaced. Its quite hard to see but the only arrow i can see is on the bottom of the pump pointing towards the heating return sticker.


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