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Desperately need help to get comfortable on the bike

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,490 ✭✭✭hesker


    Epitaph wrote: »
    OP, I would agree with this, my 2013 Crossrip is a 54 but I'm typically 52 on newer road bikes. I don't know how someone 5'10 could fit on a 54 Trek. Could you borrow larger frame bike 56/58 off a mate to try for a ride or two?

    Agree with this too. And make sure the bars are good and high relative to the saddle.

    I’d bet most of your problems are due to the fact that your weight is not really being supported by your sit bones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,619 ✭✭✭Enduro


    Have you tried riding a non-road bike, like a hybrid, or a MTB (Non XC racer) or even a city bike? If you can comfortably cycle on a more leisure style bike then at least you would know that you can still cycle with comfort. If you can't, then I don't think any amount of tinkering with your road bike is likely to help, by the sound of it. All IMHO.


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    My previous configuration had the bars higher and the saddle level. The last fit a week ago had him lower the bars, raise and tilt the saddle. From what I know, this pushed my weight forward onto my hands and less on my sit bones? The result was even more numb hands, crushed man bits and still pain in the ass.

    The bike is a 56cm frame, not a 54.

    I am pretty flexible for my age, can touch my toes and I regularly use foam rollers to keep my muscles loose and supple. I have a mountain bike that I use when cycling with the kids and I have no issues on that whatsoever.

    I have to say that my confidence in this guy is waning fast from what I’m hearing on here. It’s a fair trek for me to get down to his place for another refit and if all he’s going to do is swap this saddle for yet another one (without addressing the set up issues), I’m wasting my time. I haven’t cycled since last Sunday which is highly unusual for me and I’m considering going to another bike fitter. I know you’d advise that I do some adjustments myself but I’m starting to feel my whole set up on this bike has been wrong from the start (I’ve always had numb hands and a sore ass) and no amount of minor tinkering is going to get it right. Plus I need to find a good saddle first and foremost. I’m getting more confused by the day😱😱😱😱😱😱😱


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,543 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    The point re: sit bones is that if they are not taking the weight, then another part (and incorrect part) of your anatomy is. If your weight is being shifted off your sit bones - that's fundamentally wrong.


  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Luxman


    MojoMaker wrote: »
    The point re: sit bones is that if they are not taking the weight, then another part (and incorrect part) of your anatomy is. If your weight is being shifted off your sit bones - that's fundamentally wrong.

    What I said in post #4. Delighted Im not deluded.

    I think your fitter has run out of options, cut your losses and go elsewhere.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    I had a return visit to my fitter after the last saddle nearly ruined me forever. He changed it to a similar Selle Italia saddle to my old Selle Italia, ie almost identical but slightly narrower at the front and he raised the bars back up one spacer.

    So I went out on a 40km ride wearing my new Assos €170 bibs so I could give this my best shot at being comfy. Result.....well the sit bone area was improved but I felt awful pressure on the man bits. Got home and I raised the bars back to the top with all spacers underneath. Couple of days later I went out for a 60km ride and result was sit bone area feels better but I think I’ve damaged the man bits as I felt a dull ache in the right testicle for a few days after. That has never happened before!

    Called the fitter and he suggested I move the seat forward a few mms and angle it ever so slightly downwards. I’m going to try that but it’s grasping at straws at this point. Sore ass has been replaced by bruised balls!


  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    Jaypurs, it sounds like you're having some terrible luck.

    Might be best off seeing a doctor about this.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,365 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    can you take a photo of the bike with a spirit level on the seat?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,456 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    D13exile wrote: »
    Called the fitter and he suggested I move the seat forward a few mms and angle it ever so slightly downwards. I’m going to try that but it’s grasping at straws at this point. Sore ass has been replaced by bruised balls!

    This sounds sensible, well the moving the seat forward. I am always dubious about tilting downwards unless your a TTer, I think on long spins it could add more issues to your neck/shoulders.

    It more and more sounds like your frame is simply slightly too big considering everything that is pulling the bars and saddle together is alleviating issues. Man bit issues also indicate that your leaning over to much, something that moving the saddle forward and the bars up or back should help further with, but again, give it a few days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,275 ✭✭✭dave_o_brien


    If you have a bruised testicle or persistent pain after cycling in a testicle, I'd recommend not getting back on the bike for long enough that the pain is completely gone and would consider seeing a doctor.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    One other thing does the saddle have a cutout?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    I think you need to get yourself a short nose saddle and forget about standard length saddles as they clearly don't work for you.

    I used a Prologo Kappa PAS (cut out) on both my road bikes for years without issue but 2 or 3 years ago I started getting numb nuts after an hour or so in the saddle and thought that it was just the saddles had become worn and the padding compressed and no longer doing its job so bought a new one but the problem persisted and even got worse so I researched new saddles and settled on the Prologo Dimension 143 saddle. Since buying it almost 2 years ago I have never had one instance of numbness or pain since and now have the same saddle on my 3 road bikes and also on my mountain bike. Its firmer than the Kappa and you can feel your sit bones on the saddle but the shorter nose means no numbness/pain regardless of how long a cycle i'm on. I'd recommend giving one of them a go.


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Saddle is level


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Cut out. This saddle is very similar to my old saddle dimensions wise and with a cut out. Never had sore balls on the old one though


  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    After you've seen a doctor/gotten completely better, get a different bike fitter.

    As CramCycle said, it seems like excessive reach could be a factor, but none of us can see you on the bike.

    In terms of saddles, I find the Bontrager Aeolus great - but everyone is different. Also check out ISM saddles for ultimate cut-out, ball dangling freedom


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    I've looked at Wiggle and Chain Reaction for their saddles but the variety of saddles on there is mind boggling. I simply don't have the funds to buy multiple saddles to try out but I also can't go on as I am. Its taken two days for the nether regions to feel normal. Jeez, I finally get a lessening of the pain in the ass only for it to move to the ball sack!.

    My gut is now telling me to try another fitter. I think the guy I've been using has run out of ideas. Standing back and being honest with myself, I have never ever been comfortable on the bike, since my first bike fit in 2014. While I'm open to correction, I'm five foot ten and I don't think the bike, a 56cm frame Trek Domane is too big for me. However I've suffered with sore ass, neck strain and a left hand that goes insanely and painfully numb on every ride, no matter how many times I change hand position. Obviously there is something seriously wrong with my own particular set up. Thousands of guys like me cycle without being in such discomfort on every ride. I've become very fit and strong judging by the speeds I can manage but its all for nothing if instead of enjoying the ride, it's a masochistic chore.

    Sorry for the rant but the frustration is boiling over. I've found another bike fitter who I've been speaking too and while he can't guarantee he'll make me pain free, he is using the Retul method that appears to give results. I think I'll give him a shot and see if he can resolve things for me. No point going back to the guy I've been using as 5 bike fits with him and I'm still the same, if not worse.

    Finally thanks for the advice, and recommendations to date. Good to get views from fellow cyclists. If you guys can have a relatively pain free cycling experience, it gives me hope that I can too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Luxman


    Is this your first and only bike? I may have missed it in previous posts but being 5'10" on a 56 sounds way too big for you. I am 5'9" and my first Trek was a 54 and was too big, I moved to a Felt 51cm and now have a 52cm Spesh, all of which fit me perfectly. If you have a second bike that you are comfortable then do a comparison on geometrygeeks website.


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    D13exile wrote: »
    I've looked at Wiggle and Chain Reaction for their saddles but the variety of saddles on there is mind boggling. I simply don't have the funds to buy multiple saddles to try out but I also can't go on as I am. Its taken two days for the nether regions to feel normal. Jeez, I finally get a lessening of the pain in the ass only for it to move to the ball sack!.
    Pro saddles, they have a 30 day return policy if you dont like the saddle. Theres acctually only really 4 styles of road saddle but a lot of different brands. Firstly youd have stubby nose saddles for tts/crit racing suited for the low position. Then youd have your 'everyday' saddles if you like which you pick depending on your flexibility so youd have a very flexible option an average option and a not very flexible option.

    [
    D13exile wrote: »
    My gut is now telling me to try another fitter. I think the guy I've been using has run out of ideas. Standing back and being honest with myself, I have never ever been comfortable on the bike, since my first bike fit in 2014. While I'm open to correction, I'm five foot ten and I don't think the bike, a 56cm frame Trek Domane is too big for me. However I've suffered with sore ass, neck strain and a left hand that goes insanely and painfully numb on every ride, no matter how many times I change hand position. Obviously there is something seriously wrong with my own particular set up. Thousands of guys like me cycle without being in such discomfort on every ride. I've become very fit and strong judging by the speeds I can manage but its all for nothing if instead of enjoying the ride, it's a masochistic chore.
    If your 5 ft 10 youre on the small end for a 56cm bike, also considering the domane is an endurance bike where you usally size down, im 5 11 and my main bike is 56cm (big so baiscally 57) which puts me in a very aggressive position. My reckoning is your very stretched on your bike which is putting pressure on your sit bones / crotch. What is your stem length? You might consider putting on a shorter stem?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,365 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    trek do seem to state 56cm for the 5'9" to 5'11" range.

    i'm less than 3" shorter and i ride a 52cm frame which i consider ideal (albeit, it's a genesis and i've heard a few comments that they're slightly large for the stated size).


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    From looking on the web, a shorter stem might be part of the solution if this bike is too big for me. When I bought it in Wheelworx, they had a 54cm Domane in stock but that felt cramped when I test rode it. They let me try a 56cm Madone (I know it's a different frame and set up), but that felt better. But tbh, I knew next to nothing about bikes back then. Maybe I have been on the wrong size frame all this time. The Retul system will assess me on their adjustable bike and maybe I will be told that I am on the wrong size frame!. Something my fitter never mentioned!!!

    On the bright side, if it is the wrong frame size for me, a shorter stem might help in the interim while I save up to get a new bike. I've wanted to upgrade for a while now but until I can solve the aches and pains, I didn't want to shell out three or four grand on a new bike.

    Is that light at the end of the tunnel???

    Ok I'm off to book a new bike fit with Retul and see what happens. I'll update next week.


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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'd ask the fitter straight up if they think the bike size is an issue. No point beating about the bush with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Just checked Trek's site there as they have a Frame fitting guide. Based on my measurements, Trek recommends a 56cm frame, which is what I have. Anyways, I'll see what the bike fitter says next week.


  • Registered Users Posts: 812 ✭✭✭mp31


    Sorry to hear your saddle issues ... but ave speed of 33kph is :eek: for a mere mortal like me doing 20 kph

    Anyway, Cycle Superstore in Tallaght used to have test saddles (bright yellow with the word TEST in big letters on them) that you buy for a small amount e.g. 50 euro and try out for a week. If you don't like it you can return it get a refund and try another and so on. This was a few years ago so you may want to give them a call to check.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    D13exile wrote: »
    From looking on the web, a shorter stem might be part of the solution if this bike is too big for me. When I bought it in Wheelworx, they had a 54cm Domane in stock but that felt cramped when I test rode it. They let me try a 56cm Madone (I know it's a different frame and set up), but that felt better. But tbh, I knew next to nothing about bikes back then. Maybe I have been on the wrong size frame all this time. The Retul system will assess me on their adjustable bike and maybe I will be told that I am on the wrong size frame!. Something my fitter never mentioned!!!

    On the bright side, if it is the wrong frame size for me, a shorter stem might help in the interim while I save up to get a new bike. I've wanted to upgrade for a while now but until I can solve the aches and pains, I didn't want to shell out three or four grand on a new bike.

    Is that light at the end of the tunnel???

    Ok I'm off to book a new bike fit with Retul and see what happens. I'll update next week.

    It may be suitable for your height but are you using your inner leg measurement or your overall height?

    I’m not dissing bike fitters but the majority of people simply set up their bikes to what suits them and manage fine. I was fitted in 2013 but it was mental the changes he made, my saddle was raised 5cm and stem flipped. I hated it but tried it for almost a month but couldn’t get comfortable to reverted to my own settings and have been comfortable since.

    Use some of the online fitting guides and try your own settings. If you feel the saddle is too high regardless of what the guides state then lower it and try again.

    Bike fits do not work for everyone. They certainly didn’t for me and very obviously you too. You have nothing to lose by changing saddle height, fore/aft, handlebar height etc and experimenting till you find something that works for you.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,365 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    my saddle was raised 5cm
    in one go? i've always heard the advice that you should never raise or lower your saddle by more than 5 or 10mm at a time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    It may be suitable for your height but are you using your inner leg measurement or your overall height?

    I’m not dissing bike fitters but the majority of people simply set up their bikes to what suits them and manage fine. I was fitted in 2013 but it was mental the changes he made, my saddle was raised 5cm and stem flipped. I hated it but tried it for almost a month but couldn’t get comfortable to reverted to my own settings and have been comfortable since.

    Use some of the online fitting guides and try your own settings. If you feel the saddle is too high regardless of what the guides state then lower it and try again.

    Bike fits do not work for everyone. They certainly didn’t for me and very obviously you too. You have nothing to lose by changing saddle height, fore/aft, handlebar height etc and experimenting till you find something that works for you.

    Inner leg measurement of 32inches. Trek’s website says that puts me on a 56cm frame. However as you said, my bike fits just haven’t worked for me. My biggest problem with tinkering myself is my utter lack of patience. If I changed something and it made me worse, I’d quickly get a head of steam up and well let’s just say, I’d fear for the bike’s safety!

    I know I should change one thing at a time in small increments but change what? Handlebar height or reach? Unflip my stem? Seat up or down, back or forth? So many combinations and I could end up worse off. I’m 51 and while I’m in good condition, I’d say I’m more prone to injuries as I’m not as flexible or adaptable as someone in their 20’s or 30’s.


  • Registered Users Posts: 571 ✭✭✭jethrothe2nd


    I'm just over 5 foot 9 with a 32 inch inner leg and I'm on a 54cm Emonda. I find it comfortable and aside from some minor pins and needles in my hands on long cycles I've never experienced anything like you are finding.



    I do wonder, regardless of what Treks website says whether you might be better off with a 54cm and put a a longer stem on if you feel cramped?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,421 ✭✭✭joey100


    If your rotate the bars back towards you by loosening the stem face plate it will shorten the reach to the hoods, but not to the bar at the stem. Costs nothing and will give you an idea of if the reach is too long. If it feels better then you could look at stem length. If it's a trek and it's using Bontrager bars they tend to have a very long reach too. Lot of bars around 75mm reach (deda, zipp), some Bontrager bars are up to 105mm reach so it might not be the stem that needs to be changed at all.

    Edited to ask, do you have a model on the bars on your bike? Do you know what width they are?


  • Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    joey100 wrote: »
    If your rotate the bars back towards you by loosening the stem face plate it will shorten the reach to the hoods, but not to the bar at the stem. Costs nothing and will give you an idea of if the reach is too long. If it feels better then you could look at stem length. If it's a trek and it's using Bontrager bars they tend to have a very long reach too. Lot of bars around 75mm reach (deda, zipp), some Bontrager bars are up to 105mm reach so it might not be the stem that needs to be changed at all.

    Edited to ask, do you have a model on the bars on your bike? Do you know what width they are?

    Here’s a photo of my bars with the details stamped on the


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,421 ✭✭✭joey100


    Slightly long reach at 85mm, you can definitely get shorter reach bars. But I'd try tilting the hoods back to you a little. Wouldn't be a long term solution but will let you see what a shorter reach is like without having to spend money.


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