Project Steel

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a pedal spanner? you'd be less likely to round the flats out than you would be with allen bolts. also easier to get mechanical advantage on.

+1 on that. You can often get a normal spanner on too, if you don't have the pedal spanner

CianRyan

There's a pillar drill around the corner in my in-laws, honestly didn't even consider that!
It's a cheap belt driven one but it's worth a shot, the little 10v DeWalt is mighty but it's chuck is known to slip.

No specific spanner but I have good quality regular spanners, fits on nice and snug so I may out it in a vice and use a slip bar on it before I get the drill out, honestly though it could only open from the back.

Bring on pay day, I'm getting excited to spend money on parts now.
Must measure to make sure I order the correct headset bearings, I think it's a 1" but I better double check.

magicbastarder

CianRyan wrote: »

honestly though it could only open from the back.

not at all, the spanner is the bog standard way to go. you will get more leverage too.
as always, position yourself so if it does let go under load that you don't absolutely mash yourself off something (especially the teeth on the chainring)

CianRyan

Sound! I'll definitely give that a bash.
And yes, I've smashed my knuckles enough times to have learned this!
The scars I've picked up working with my hands are endless and a genuine pain in the...

eeeee

Stupid advice alert! I'm sure you know this already but they both unscrew to the back. I made that mistake the first time I went taking pedals off, it took me ages to get it off after!

Kaisr Sose

8valve wrote: »

Let me know what length steerer you need. I might be able to sort you out with something.

Thank you

The headtube is 110mm. Original fork was chromed, normal rake for the time (89)

Smilinpolitely

Looking for advice on where to buy parts for a restoration I started after Christmas. First time I attempted anything more than fixing a flat so I have no idea where to get cables for brake/derailer, bar tape, saddle etc. The bike is early 70's sun worksop i dug out of my fathers garage(growing cobwebs since early 90's). I have all the components removed from the frame, stripped the paint and have a primer applied, so far. Any advice welcome. Thanks.
Sorry I can't post pics as I'm too new to boards.ie

magicbastarder

cables, bar tape, saddle, should all be available in your local bike shop or online.
i'd suggest going to your LBS for them, so you can pester them with questions if necessary.

cletus

I thought we were going to see crank-less pedals (or is that pedal-less cranks)

Smilinpolitely

No bike shops anywhere around me so ill have to go online. Any sites you recommend?

Smilinpolitely

Looks like I have commented enough to post some pics.
Here is what I started with

cletus

Great stuff. Throw up more pictures as you go. Love seeing a restoration.

Smilinpolitely

Got the primer on today. Probably won't get to paint again till next weekend. But looking forward to starting to put bits back on. Hopefully soon

cletus

As regards websites to buy parts from

https://www.bike-components.de/en/

https://www.bike24.com/


would be two that get used here, although there are others as well.

There are a number of English sites, but I don't know how things stand with Brexit

There's also Amazon, of course

CianRyan

Delighted to see another mad man take on a project, hopefully your parts are easier death with than mine!

I didn't get any further with my cranks this weekend, too much work to be done around the house and garden unfortunately.

I was looking at my bottom bracket and it seems I need a British thread, 1.37-24t.
I measured the head tube and the inner diameter seems to be about 32mm, I need to grab a new vernier caliper to make sure of that as.my old one has grown legs. That's different to the 30mm outer of the JIS headset I thought I needed... This bike is a mystery.


I got a half hour this morning get more paint off at least, I'm at the stage of using hand held wire brushes to remove the final, awkward spots, revealing lots of nice brazing.

cletus

Lidl had digital calipers recently. They're not Mityotoyo's, but I'm sure they'd be fine for what you need.

They were a tenner. I was thinking of picking one up to make a DRO for my bench drill

CianRyan

You've said the M word now and they're only about €30 more! :pac:

I also don't do digital, batteries are faff and I don't trust that they stay accurate.

cletus

Where are you getting Mityotoyo's for €40, and can I have one, please

Edit: I see you said analogue, apologies, digital ones are €200 plus

CianRyan

Well I tried it the old fashioned way, the new fashioned way and I've wrecked some drill bits and a spanner. I'm starting to think I'll just need to buy new cranks.

CianRyan

Well I tried it the old fashioned way, the new fashioned way and I've wrecked some drill bits and a spanner. I'm starting to think I'll just need to buy new cranks.

cletus

I'm sure you have, but on the off chance, have you put any heat in it?

magicbastarder

he did mention using heat previously.

CianRyan

Yeah, I've had a lot of heat in them but with a small enough torch as I didn't want to strain the aluminum.
I guess I could go at it with a bigger torch and a new spanner before shelling out, I really do want to use the original cranks.

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

Yeah, I've had a lot of heat in them but with a small enough torch as I didn't want to strain the aluminum.
I guess I could go at it with a bigger torch and a new spanner before shelling out, I really do want to use the original cranks.

Have you a bench vice?

CianRyan

I have an excellent vice but I am yet to build a bench to mount it on. :pac:
I'm going to have to get around to her dad's workshop and use his vice and piller drill this weekend.
Ill stock up on gas too and melt these cranks if I can't separate them!

CianRyan

* LIVE UPDATE*

The pedals are off the cranks. They were cross threaded, I'll try re cutting them but eh, I'm doubt full.

cletus

Job

8valve

CianRyan wrote: »

* LIVE UPDATE*

The pedals are off the cranks. They were cross threaded, I'll try re cutting them but eh, I'm doubt full.

Fair play; perseverance paid off.

CianRyan

Perseverance, a bigger blow touch and s 3 foot slip bar. :pac:

I better start ordering parts, the frame is nearly painless. I'm just sanding down the lugs and drop outs to finish the awkward spots, then I'll work up to about 2000g sand paper over the whole frame, metal polish and give it a ceramic coating to protect it.

Better get started in the wheels too...

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

Perseverance, a bigger blow torch and s 3 foot slip bar. :pac:

YESS!! Moar hot is better










Also, fixed your spelling

CianRyan

Who said I used a torch? Haha

8valve

cletus wrote: »

YESS!! Moar hot is better










Also, fixed your spelling

''Don't force it...just use a bigger hammer'' - Every CIE mechanic, ever.


According to my father, who worked for them for 30-odd years.

cletus

8valve wrote: »

''Don't force it...just use a bigger hammer'' - Every CIE mechanic, ever.


According to my father, who worked for them for 30-odd years.

They're not hammers, they're persuaders...

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

Who said I used a torch? Haha

I'm not sure if I want to know what a blow touch is, so...

CramCycle

How hot did they have to be?

iwillhtfu

CianRyan

About 1430c, I'd say you could have lit a match by sanding close to them.
I tried it in stages but it wasn't until I could feel the heat beside them that they budged.
40 years of crossed threaded electrolysis will do that.

I was trying to get the bottom bracket free using various circlip pliars but nah, gonna need the right tool for the job. Praying that's not cross threaded too.

cletus

Cian, think I said it to you before, I made up a pair of bb pliers. They look the same size as your one, send me an address and I'll post them out

ARX

8valve wrote: »

''Don't force it...just use a bigger hammer'' - Every CIE mechanic, ever.


According to my father, who worked for them for 30-odd years.

So did mine! Are we long-lost brothers?

Smilinpolitely

Nice work cian. Great to see the pedals off.
I had a productive week. Finished the painting, I'm reasonably happy with the finish considering it was done outside. I even managed to get the bottom bracket and front fork reattached today.

ARX

cletus wrote: »

They're not hammers, they're persuaders...

AKA the 'Swindon micrometer' (referring to the Swindon railway works of the Great Western Railway).

Smilinpolitely

Smilinpolitely wrote: »

Nice work cian. Great to see the pedals off.
I had a productive week. Finished the painting, I'm reasonably happy with the finish considering it was done outside. I even managed to get the bottom bracket and front fork reattached today.

A quick pic

CianRyan

British racing green, I love it!

A really light wet sand with the highest grit you get and a polish would really bring that up. If you have a machine polisher, then even better!

Smilinpolitely

Thanks cian I reckon I could borrow a polishing machine from mate. I'm really liking the green its fairly close to the frames original colour under all the dodgy paint jobs over the years

cletus

Cian, you were talking inanother thread about building wheels.

Park Tools have just released a 5 video series on wheel truing, which might be helpful.

CianRyan

Today I got a package in the mail and I was like kid at christ. It was none other than one of Cletus' home made bike tools! A bottom bracket pin spanner.

I having previously taken the head off a circlip pliars, the pin spanner was a god send, it had no resistance removing the 30/40 year old part. The side was not looking pretty but all parts are intact so I decided to try and reuse the original BB. If it doesn't hold up I'll buy a sealed unit... I do love old things though.

Once apart I removed the chunky, gritty grease, used some brake cleaner and then 400/600 grit wet and dry with WD40 to clean the spindle and cups. I used a small copper brush to gently remove corrosion from the ball bearings and cages, cleaned again and let sit in WD40 again before reassembling with Molybdenum Disulfide grease. This is used for CV and universal joints on cars because it's long lasting, has a high melting point and over time builds a chemical layer on metal that helps to protect and improve bearing efficiency... I have a big tub of it laying around.

All back together bar the lock ring as I was called in for dinner, it feels a hell of a lot better now than before it was apart. It may last, it may not but I'm glad to have at least tried to save an old part.
Next I've to order my headset bearing and look at building these wheel. Fun!
Pics as always.

cletus

8valve

CianRyan wrote: »

Today I got a package in the mail and I was like kid at christ. It was none other than one of Cletus' home made bike tools! A bottom bracket pin spanner.

I having previously taken the head off a circlip pliars, the pin spanner was a god send, it had no resistance removing the 30/40 year old part. The side was not looking pretty but all parts are intact so I decided to try and reuse the original BB. If it doesn't hold up I'll buy a sealed unit... I do love old things though.

Once apart I removed the chunky, gritty grease, used some brake cleaner and then 400/600 grit wet and dry with WD40 to clean the spindle and cups. I used a small copper brush to gently remove corrosion from the ball bearings and cages, cleaned again and let sit in WD40 again before reassembling with Molybdenum Disulfide grease. This is used for CV and universal joints on cars because it's long lasting, has a high melting point and over time builds a chemical layer on metal that helps to protect and improve bearing efficiency... I have a big tub of it laying around.

All back together bar the lock ring as I was called in for dinner, it feels a hell of a lot better now than before it was apart. It may last, it may not but I'm glad to have at least tried to save an old part.
Next I've to order my headset bearing and look at building these wheel. Fun!
Pics as always.

great work.


well done, that man!

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

I may have a little job for a man of your abilities. I need a spacer with a flange machined for and through axle to QR adapter axle. I found one but of course can't find the other. :rolleyes:

cletus

iwillhtfu wrote: »

I may have a little job for a man of your abilities. I need a spacer with a flange machined for and through axle to QR adapter axle. I found one but of course can't find the other. :rolleyes:

Take pictures and dimensions, send them on. If you don't have my mobile number, pm and I'll send it to you