Add your pearls of wisdom, based on experience.

G1032

Thargor wrote: »

Why do people say this? Of course it gets easier, hills that were impossible once and required you to get off and walk become the easy bit on the way to the mountains etc, 100km rides become normal weekend activities when previously they were physically impossible. It's just such a strange phrase to be in common use for a sport like cycling.

No. A VO2 max effort or a threshold effort will always have the same perceived exertion no matter whether your FTP is 200w or 400w. The more structured training you do the higher your FTP will get and the faster you'll go. But it never gets easier. Ever. You just get faster 😄

Seaswimmer

I was told this by an old cyclist back in the 70s long before chain cleaning products became popular. He used a diesel soaked rag. Get a container of diesel. It won't evaporate so an open container is fine.Fill your chain cleaning tool as required and run chain through it. Pour the dirty diesel back into the container. Dirt will settle to the bottom so you can use the clean diesel again next time.
Wipe off excess with a rag. No need to lubricate the chain. The chain will have a film of oil from the diesel.
Handy if you are commuting through spells of wet weather. You can do it in a few seconds every day and give the bike itself a major clean at the weekend.
I have done touring trips of 1100kms using this method and chain was perfect at the end. (assuming no rain)

new2tri19

I'm trying to get quicker on a local climb its like 4 minutes uphill / 1 min downhill / 4 minutes uphill , any pearls of wisdom to get a better time ? I tried other day and did 340watts for 4 mins / just rolled down the downhill / 350watts for next 4 mins . That was my first time trying it with a power meter but was 1 min off my best time . Any tips ?

fat bloke

new2tri19 wrote: »

I'm trying to get quicker on a local climb its like 4 minutes uphill / 1 min downhill / 4 minutes uphill , any pearls of wisdom to get a better time ? I tried other day and did 340watts for 4 mins / just rolled down the downhill / 350watts for next 4 mins . That was my first time trying it with a power meter but was 1 min off my best time . Any tips ?

You obviously missed my advice

fat bloke wrote: »

"PEDAL DOWN THE HILL!!!!"

But that's a lot of power you're putting out and 1 minute is a huge amount of time in a 9 minute climb. Maybe find a wattage you can sustain over the entire duration up and down. Unless it's a roller-coaster there must be time and speed to be gained by applying power (pedalling) down the hill.

Type 17

If a bike has the same groupset as others which are a few hundred € more, you can be sure that the savings come from stuff like inferior wheels/a heavier frame/poor cable-runs/less R&D/ poor-quality finishing kit and paint, etc. - if a bike seems under-priced compared to its peers, there's almost certainly good (actually bad) reasons.

******

Ideal tyre pressures should be based on rider & bike weight + tyre width, aiming for a sweet spot between rolling resistance, comfort, tyre-footprint/grip and preventing pinching/damage.
Eg: a petite/light rider (~70kg) on 32mm tyres might enjoy riding 65/70psi (front & rear)
A tall/heavy rider (~110kg) on 25mm's would be advised to use 110/120psi
Pumping to the max pressure of a tyre isn't necessarily faster, it's probably just more uncomfortable (which can actually slow you down) and has a smaller footprint (less grip).

******
Tyre tread does not equal grip - you'd be amazed at how many people ask for heavier/knobbier tyres for "more grip" on the road - we have explain that smooth tyres with some 'texture' or side-siping (and at the right pressure, see above) are the best for on-road use.

******

If you can't be bothered maintaining a full-on chain cleaning/lubrication regime, at least take a look at the rollers in the middle of each link - if they're black, you just oiled the chain (or it's really dirty), if they're grey, things are ok for now, but if they're getting toward silver, it's time for oil.
How often should you check? Every time you ride the bike, but don't oil it too often (worse than no oil) - in summer, you may only need oil every month, but in a wet winter week, it could well be every day...

******

If your saddle's not comfortable, a more padded one probably won't help - the right fit is totally personal of course, but is a function of the bike's posture (eg: Comfort/City/Performance/Race/Time-Trial) and of the width of your pelvis - most new road bikes come with a really narrow saddle (128-138mm), which looks sleek on the shop-floor, but which are really only suited to small, slightly-built males.
(After trying a few different models, I now ride a performance/race ladies' saddle - 154mm wide but virtually unpadded - fine for >100km rides with no issues).

******

Money spent on beating wind resistance is better than on reducing weight - a lighter bike (and rider!) is important of course, but once you're rolling ~86% of effort is spent overcoming wind resistance & the remaining ~14% is rolling resistance from tyres and mechanical friction. Except when climbing and accelerating, weight isn't that important, as inertia has already been overcome.

******

If you're going to bother with mudguards, get ones that protect the bike as well as you. They mightn't look as cool, but less damage from water ingress is even cooler.

******

Daytime running lights* are safer than hi-vis - you are perceived as a vehicle, rather than an "other", and taken more seriously/given more space. (If you disagree, that's fine, but that's my experience).
*Proper ones, rated for daytime use, not just regular ones used in daytime.

duffyshuffle

new2tri19 wrote: »

I'm trying to get quicker on a local climb its like 4 minutes uphill / 1 min downhill / 4 minutes uphill , any pearls of wisdom to get a better time ? I tried other day and did 340watts for 4 mins / just rolled down the downhill / 350watts for next 4 mins . That was my first time trying it with a power meter but was 1 min off my best time . Any tips ?

Howth? The wind has a huge impact on PBs

new2tri19

duffyshuffle wrote: »

Howth? The wind has a huge impact on PBs

Yeah howth hill tt on Strava , I guessed 350watts for the climb part and then recover in the middle I had too much energy left at end , wonder should you peddle hard on downhill ?
Just getting used to power meter and pacing off power ftp 235 or so , 63kg no way of accurately predicting max 4 min power from that ?

Tony04

new2tri19 wrote: »

Yeah howth hill tt on Strava , I guessed 350watts for the climb part and then recover in the middle I had too much energy left at end , wonder should you peddle hard on downhill ?
Just getting used to power meter and pacing off power ftp 235 or so , 63kg no way of accurately predicting max 4 min power from that ?

Your not going to PB it unless the winds coming in from the west. Get momentum going from the cross out of the saddle by the graveyard hold your speed until the top of the first hill,out of the saddle there and accelerate for the downhill, get on the big ring. When it starts rising again out of the saddle until the flat where you hold your speed. Out of the saddle again after the flat and accelerate into that quick down hill bit round the turn, then out of the saddle till the carpark hold and then all out up the last bit before the shop.
Forget about your power meter, judge by feel or hr monitor, threshold effort slightly above on the aggressive bits, slightly below on the flatter bits.

new2tri19

Tony04 wrote: »

Your not going to PB it unless the winds coming in from the west. Get momentum going from the cross out of the saddle by the graveyard hold your speed until the top of the first hill,out of the saddle there and accelerate for the downhill, get on the big ring. When it starts rising again out of the saddle until the flat where you hold your speed. Out of the saddle again after the flat and accelerate into that quick down hill bit round the turn, then out of the saddle till the carpark hold and then all out up the last bit before the shop.
Forget about your power meter, judge by feel or hr monitor, threshold effort slightly above on the aggressive bits, slightly below on the flatter bits.

Great thanks , didn't get out of the saddle at all last time.

kenmm

Cleats regularly need tightened.. mine seem to unscrew all by themselves, even between spins!

Daroxtar

Rubber side down

fat bloke

new2tri19 wrote: »

Yeah howth hill tt on Strava , I guessed 350watts for the climb part and then recover in the middle I had too much energy left at end , wonder should you peddle hard on downhill ?
Just getting used to power meter and pacing off power ftp 235 or so , 63kg no way of accurately predicting max 4 min power from that ?

Well, now that you've switched to power, forget times. You PB is your best average wattage from now. - It's a metric of your progress/fitness that is independent of variables such as wind.

koutoubia

Campagnolo is by default better and sexier then Shimano!














And although RobFowl will come along and disagree with that factual statement he is still a legend in brightly coloured lycra.

gaffmaster

You can fit twice as many new inner tubes in your saddle bag if you roll the air out of them first.

Seth Brundle

gaffmaster wrote: »

You can fit twice as many new inner tubes in your saddle bag if you roll the air out of them first.

If they're new, surely there's no air in them and they're already rolled up?

gaffmaster

Seth Brundle wrote: »

If they're new, surely there's no air in them and they're already rolled up?

There's a tiny bit of air in them when new. Rolling them from the opposite side of the valve to the valve, then letting the air out will make them flatter. Then you close the valve and can fold them back up and wrap them in some cling film to the shape of your saddle bag.

Seth Brundle

aha - I see what you mean

fat bloke

I always found inner tubes to be like Apple products. Once you unbox, it ain't never goin back in as neatly again!

who_ru

- wear a bandanna in summer.
- always have your phone fully charged before you go out.
- engage both brakes down hill, one brake fully engaged might not be enough to stop.
- tubeless is better ( my opinion)
- don't waste money buying cheap stuff that won't last, be it clothing or tools, save up, buy better quality that will last.
- it's better to go for 5 one hours spins a week than 1 five hour spin.
- research stretching routines for cyclists on youtube and follow them. you will feel much better afterwards.
- acknowledge other cyclists if they salute on the road.
- don't argue with drivers, it's pointless.
- always stop at red lights.

sbs2010

Everytime you approach a left hand turn check if there's a driver coming up behind you and make sure he sees you.

And try a leather saddle. Sure they're heavier but as previous posts point out, that makes f all difference.

who_ru

who_ru wrote: »

- wear a bandanna in summer.
- always have your phone fully charged before you go out.
- engage both brakes down hill, one brake fully engaged might not be enough to stop.
- tubeless is better ( my opinion)
- don't waste money buying cheap stuff that won't last, be it clothing or tools, save up, buy better quality that will last.
- it's better to go for 5 one hours spins a week than 1 five hour spin.
- research stretching routines for cyclists on youtube and follow them. you will feel much better afterwards.
- acknowledge other cyclists if they salute on the road.
- don't argue with drivers, it's pointless.
- always stop at red lights.

Marco Pantani fan???

As for the stretches I've actually been using that book I got from Aldi a few weeks back now that I've a bit of time on my hands. It's got a lot of stuff in it. Be interested to hear from others that got it as to any routine they've put together from it. It's great in the sense that it warns you if you have X wrong don't do this one which you might not get in youtube videos and the like. It's terrible in the sense that it reminds we how much more flexible I was 10 years ago

Wishbone Ash

who_ru wrote: »

- wear a bandanna in summer....

Eh, no thanks. My head is hot enough on the coldest winter day. Why would I make it even hotter in summer? (And I've no interest in playing pirates).

Vaseline for me in summer, and even earlier in the year. Works for boxers so it can work for us sweaty so and so's on the bike.

eeeee

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Vaseline for me in summer, and even earlier in the year. Works for boxers so it can work for us sweaty so and so's on the bike.

Vaseline? Where? For what? In summer?
What is this crazy talk?!

eeeee

eeeee wrote: »

Vaseline? Where? For what? In summer?
What is this crazy talk?!

It's something I did in my running days to keep sweat out of my eyes and brought it to the bike with me, I take my index fingers with vaseline on then draw an inverted V from the middle of my forehead out and down an inch passed my eyes.

Bit like corona virus you need to trust it and not touch your face :pac:

Basically like a gully for sweat on your face.

eeeee

It's a brave new world!

Roadtoad

Lights: Whether rechargeable or not, they will let you down occasionally. Don't limit yourself to daylight cycling. Have spares. Cheap as chips.
Or become an anorak and get a dynamo.

eeeee

eeeee wrote: »

It's a brave new world!

Ha yeah I've always been a sweaty Betty. Sweat bands or caps work to point and then are counter active when it gets to summer. You have those gloves with sweat pads which are fkn manky unless you wash them after every ride and you need to take a hand off the bars to use. So yeah vaseline does the job for me to keep the sweat out of my eyes.

Wishbone Ash

Deleted User wrote: »

It's something I did in my running days to keep sweat out of my eyes and brought it to the bike with me...

God provided eyebrows for that function. Stop plucking them!

Wishbone Ash

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

God provided eyebrows for that function. Stop plucking them!

I'm not blessed with a nice bushy unibrow :pac: