Zeroing a rifle

alan86

Hi lads,

I picked up a .17 Remington lately. I got this rifle for nothing my brother in law lost all interest in shooting so just passed it onto me for free as the licence was out and had no interest renewing it

I know there may be issues in getting ammo and the price of it but I will see how it goes.

My question is I have never had a rifle before so I need a bit of advice in zeroing it. The rifle came with a scope and mod. Not sure if the following will make any difference but a bit more info:

The rifle hasn’t been fired in over 4 years.
The rifle has never been fired since the mod has been fitted (I don’t think)
The scope is a bit loose as in u could spin it in the mounts. I presume I just need to tighten the mounts.

I’m wondering is there any YouTube videos or anything I could watch in the best way to zero the rifle and also any advice on how best to maintain the rifle as in how often to clean etc.

Any info appreciated

Cheers,

Alan

Zxthinger

Prob best to either keep reading for a good while or get someone to show you. Sighting in needs to be done with a safe backstop.
Start at shooting ranges of say 50m and once on the mark then push out to 100.
The problem here is that you are thinking that your going to learn and practicing with a 17Rem. Ammo can't be got anymore unless your willing to buy a 1000rounds, You might be better off learning with a 22lr rifle that you'd pick up for 200 Euro because you'll waste x2 that in value-amount of 17Rem ammo just learning and practicing.
The real thing to do her would be to rebarrel that gun to take 223rem which is cheap to shoot and has a low maintenance regime.

Make sure the barrel is clean and free from rust. Make sure you get cleaning rods and clean her and use cleaning solutions to get out copper fouling and carbon. Check it's clean as any rough rust or debris could block a bore and cause a pressure spike and damage both you and the gun. Rusty patches can pull the jacket off a bullet and block a bore😘

Zeroing. Where to begin.
You need to afix the scope to the gun so there is no movement. You also need to get the scopes crosshairs line parallel to the action (really- its the bullet drop).
Some people use a small level on the action or on the bolt-rails in the action (with shims to get higher than ejection window) & some just do it by eye.
You can also do after the scope is fitted as above and by then dialling the scope elevation high and firing a group on a target which has a large vertical line through the bullseye to which you keep you scopes crosshairs parallel. You then dial the elevation way down and reshoot the group aiming at the same spot. You should have two groups both on the vertical line. If they are off. One to the right and one to the left then this angular separation is the same as your scopes angular misalignment.

But before you take any shots do this first. Rest the gun on something solid like a few sand bags or such and then you sight down the boar by taking the bolt out and looking straight down it with your eye. Try to sight on a something that's easy to centre in the tubular picture. Then with out moving or disturbing the guns position or POA (point of aim) slowly bring your eye to the scope and see if it too is pointing st the same target. Adjust accordingly to achieve same POA

You will need to clean that gun every 30 rounds. Although I have heard of folks that never cleaned them except every 100 rounds.

Zxthinger

Sent you a PM too

tac foley

Do you have a licence for this rifle?

And somewhere to shoot it?

alan86

Zxthinger wrote: »

Prob best to either keep reading for a good while or get someone to show you. Sighting in needs to be done with a safe backstop.
Start at shooting ranges of say 50m and once on the mark then push out to 100.
The problem here is that you are thinking that your going to learn and practicing with a 17Rem. Ammo can't be got anymore unless your willing to buy a 1000rounds, You might be better off learning with a 22lr rifle that you'd pick up for 200 Euro because you'll waste x2 that in value-amount of 17Rem ammo just learning and practicing.
The real thing to do her would be to rebarrel that gun to take 223rem which is cheap to shoot and has a low maintenance regime.

Make sure the barrel is clean and free from rust. Make sure you get cleaning rods and clean her and use cleaning solutions to get out copper fouling and carbon. Check it's clean as any rough rust or debris could block a bore and cause a pressure spike and damage both you and the gun. Rusty patches can pull the jacket off a bullet and block a bore😘

Zeroing. Where to begin.
You need to afix the scope to the gun so there is no movement. You also need to get the scopes crosshairs line parallel to the action (really- its the bullet drop).
Some people use a small level on the action or on the bolt-rails in the action (with shims to get higher than ejection window) & some just do it by eye.
You can also do after the scope is fitted as above and by then dialling the scope elevation high and firing a group on a target which has a large vertical line through the bullseye to which you keep you scopes crosshairs parallel. You then dial the elevation way down and reshoot the group aiming at the same spot. You should have two groups both on the vertical line. If they are off. One to the right and one to the left then this angular separation is the same as your scopes angular misalignment.

But before you take any shots do this first. Rest the gun on something solid like a few sand bags or such and then you sight down the boar by taking the bolt out and looking straight down it with your eye. Try to sight on a something that's easy to centre in the tubular picture. Then with out moving or disturbing the guns position or POA (point of aim) slowly bring your eye to the scope and see if it too is pointing st the same target. Adjust accordingly to achieve same POA

You will need to clean that gun every 30 rounds. Although I have heard of folks that never cleaned them except every 100 rounds.

Thanks very much for the lengthy and detailed reply. My original plan was to buy a .22lr but this poped up so I said I would take it then.

I was reading previous threads about getting a gun rebarreled as I thought it might be my best bet as from what I read ammo is like gold dust. I will contact my local firearms dealer with regards ammo and rebarrelling and see what he has to say for himself. If it’s not that expensive to get the gun rebarrelled I think I will go down that route. If I did get it rebarreled would that mod that’s currently fitted to it fit the .233? Have you ever had a rifle rebarreled before? Would there be any issue with getting the licence updated from .17 to.233?

alan86

tac foley wrote: »

Do you have a licence for this rifle?

And somewhere to shoot it?

Hi tac,

Ya course I do. I’m part of my local gun club for years I want a rifle to vermin but I see there’s a local range not too far away so might look into joining that as well probably good place to learn

aaakev

Shouldn't be any issue going from .17 to .223, i did it from a .17hmr to a .223 and then to the. 243. Never had a problem subbing any guns for any others.

.223 is the way to go for cheap centrefire shooting. When i had mine i was buying American Eagle 55gr HP for about €11 a box and when i was buying in bulk and thats a **** load of shooting for a hunting rifle! Prices have gone up but .223 ammo is still the best value centrefire ammo

alan86

aaakev wrote: »

Shouldn't be any issue going from .17 to .223, i did it from a .17hmr to a .223 and then to the. 243. Never had a problem subbing any guns for any others.

.223 is the way to go for cheap centrefire shooting. When i had mine i was buying American Eagle 55gr HP for about €11 a box and when i was buying in bulk and thats a **** load of shooting for a hunting rifle! Prices have gone up but .223 ammo is still the best value centrefire ammo

Ya from what I am reading getting this rifle rebarreled to .233 looks to be my best bet. Has anyone had it done before is it expensive to get it done?

LIFFY FISHING

alan86 wrote: »

Ya from what I am reading getting this rifle rebarreled to .233 looks to be my best bet. Has anyone had it done before is it expensive to get it done?

There is only a few guys who can rebarrel the rifle for you such as Dom Byrne.
That is going to cost you around €500 & you will also need to apply to AGS for a sub licence..but as you got it for nothing its worth the money.
BTW a .17 BDL would have more in common with a .204 than .223 from a ballistic point of view.
The .17 is a perfect fox round.

zeissman

LIFFY FISHING wrote: »

There is only a few guys who can rebarrel the rifle for you such as Dom Byrne.
That is going to cost you around €500 & you will also need to apply to AGS for a sub licence..but as you got it for nothing its worth the money.
BTW a .17 BDL would have more in common with a .204 than .223 from a ballistic point of view.
The .17 is a perfect fox round.

I don't think you will get a rifle rebarreled for €500. It wil probably be closer to €1000 but check it out anyway.
You might be as well off trading it in for a new 223.

Zxthinger

There is a surplus of 223 barrels for rem700. If ye look around yd get one of 100€. After that we are simply looking for a straight forward barrel swap with one or two outcomes.
-1
The barrel when fitted is checked with go-gauge and the bolt won't close on it. Great.. just hand ream with chamber reamer- turn it three turns with plenty of cutting fluid then clean away the chips and refit and retry. Continue until 'bolt close'
Can't see that costing more than €200 including the barrel

-2
The barrel when fitted closes on the go-gauge but also closes on the no-go gauge.
So you need to determine how much extra headspace yer getting and how much extra gauge you need to get resistance on or at the initial part of the bolt close..
Measure the total length of the gauge being used. I think I'd bulk it out with sticky tape, ten thousand of an inch at a time. Prob one or two disc of tape..? Once restistance is established then a figure could be determined as to how much 'set back' you would need. If it was only a few thou then it could be taken of the recoil lug by hand grinding on a stone or cutting in a milling machine. Otherwise the barrel would have to be shimmed with brass offcuts, chucked,[in lathe] dialled in, and each surface on the end of the barrels would have to have to get trimmed or shorter an equal cut. That's the barrel shoulder, the barrel face and the face of the "ring" it might require half an hour of work at the lathe

Then refit and recheck with cleaned gauges.
The hardest part is getting the old barrel off. Lol.
How can this cost 1000€ lol

The whole operation couldn't be more that 350 including the barrel.
For 1000€ I'd want two men and a 45t digger with diesel for the day. Ffs.

zeissman

You must be talking about a take off factory barrel . A new custom barrel will cost around 1000. My mate just sent his tikka to the UK to get a new Bartlein barrel fitted. Cost is 950 sterling plus 65 sterling shipping charges.
Personally I wouldn't put on a take off barrel unless I knew the rifle and the reason why it was changed. It could be shot out or just not accurate.

Zxthinger

I'd assume that any good gun smith would have a bore scope. But it might be worth going new if ye were really into shooting.

I haven't seen many shot-out 223s TBH a bit of barrel set-back would give any old yoke a bit of new life..

The other option here is the OP could go for a remage barrel which does not require a gun smith. Fit to go-gauge and lock her in.

Barrels are prob 350 from USA with shipping but the killer is the export fee. It alone is 250 but for that you can export as many as you like..

I'm might be worth considering a group buy if barreks with one export licence and gave them shipped to a dealer. I'd be willing to enter such a group if it was done through a dealer.

alan86

Well lads thanks for all the input so far. I rang my local firearms dealer today to ask him did he firstly stock any .17 rem ammo and secondly did he have any experience in rebarreling a rifle and a rough cost.

To answer my first question it turns out he does stock .17 rem ammo and he has some due in the middle of next week as someone picked up the last few boxes last week.

He also has experience in rebarreling and he reckoned that around €500 would do it maybe a small bit more. Now I’m not sure if he rebarrels the rifles himself or if he has someone that does it.

I’m going calling into him tomorrow to have a better chat.

Thanks for all the input so far and I will let Ye know how on get on.

garv123

What make rifle is it? if its a remington or tikka there would be a few factory barrels out there, some never even used, some people buy them and use the action to build a new rifle.

Feidhlim Dignan

Where in the country are you based I'm sure someone on here would walk you through zeroing and one or two shooting tips.
If your in Galway/Mayo area I will.

alan86

Feidhlim Dignan wrote: »

Where in the country are you based I'm sure someone on here would walk you through zeroing and one or two shooting tips.
If your in Galway/Mayo area I will.

Cheers for the offer i really appreciate it unfortunately I’m in the north cork area if anyone is around that area and is willing to show me a few bits I would be delighted.

On rebarreling the rifle I’m still waiting to meet the fire arms dealer it seems to be impossible to get a time we are both around.

Cass

alan86 wrote: »

The scope is a bit loose as in u could spin it in the mounts. I presume I just need to tighten the mounts.

Yup.

Open rings and remove scope. Check ring bases are securely fixed to rifle/rail. Place scope back into ring bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either sprit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

...............the best way to zero the rifle...........

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the minutes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you look down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.

Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles) can be seen sitting perfectly central in the "ring" made by the muzzle. You should start at 50 yards and then move out once you get zeroed.

Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, re-clamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero

Cass

alan86 wrote: »

........... any advice on how best to maintain the rifle as in how often to clean etc.

If i sound like i'm preaching then i apologise as it's not my intent, but many people think their rifle is clean and it looks like it, but its not. I've even had this myself and i'd consider myself very fussy when cleaning. My groups opened up a little and i had chekced everything above. I dismissed the cleaning aspect because of how i clean, but after using a bore scope i found a "patch" of fouling in the last 3 to 4 inches of the barrel. I was not properly soaking every inch of the bore and the last bit was getting only a fraction of what i was using. I changed my cleaning regime and made sure i left it sit long enough to cover every bit of the barrel bore.

My regime looks like this:

I use KG, and Forest Foam products mostly. KG 1 for carbon removal, and Forest Foam or KG 12 for copper removal. It's important to remove the carbon first otherwise when the patches come out clean you think the barrel is. It's not. It's only the carbon cleaned out. The copper will stain the patches a blue/green colour. When the the copper solvent patches are running wet, and clean then the barrel is clean.

My routine would consist of the following:

1. KG/Forest Foam for regular barrel cleaning. (Wipe out/Butch's Bore shine now and then for heavy cleaning.)
2. Run a KG1 soaked patch through the barrel. This is a carbon remover to get the grime out first.
3. Leave to sit for a few minutes.
4. Run another wet patch with KG 1 through the barrel to moisten the fouling, and remove the first lot of carbon..
5. Run a nylon brush up and down the barrel about a half a dozen times. Clean the brush each time with a spray oil to prevent a build up of gunk on it, and a touch of KG1 before running back down the barrel.
6. NEVER pull the brush back through the barrel. Unscrew it, remove the rod, then attach the brush again.
7. Run another patch, soaked in KG1, down the barrel to remove fouling while treating the barrel again. Use a second patch soaked to line the bore again with solvent.
8. Leave to sit for a few minutes.
9. At this stage start preparing about 15 or so well oiled patches.
10. Start running them down the barrel one after the other until they run clean. The patches need to remain wet to prevent dry carbon sticking to the bore.
11. If they come clean before the 15 great. If not use more or repeat steps 2-9 again.
12. When they run clean and wet, then start using the dry patches.
13. Run as many as is needed until there is no more oil on the patches coming out.
14. Now repeat steps 2-9 using the copper solvent instead of the carbon remover. You are looking for wet, and clean patches. If there is any hint of blue or green then there is still copper in the barrel.
15. DO not be afraid to soak the bore. The solvent does the work so being stingy or light with it means you'll leave fouling in the barrel.
16. Use KG 12, Forest Foam or in the case of heavy fouling Wipe out. In the case of Forest Foam you simply fill the barrel and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes or so. The KG 12 can be left to sit for a little while also, but make sure you use wet patches when patching.
17. Keep cleaning until the patches, ALWAYS WET, come out clean.
18. When you are all done and have dry patched the barrel use the mop and run it up and down the barrel again about a dozen times. Slowly. The Mop should be clean throughout this. Any sign of dirt and the barrel is not clean.
19. On the last run leave the mop half protruded from the muzzle. Wipe around the muzzle and clean any fouling on the crown. The mop will prevent anything running back down into the barrel.
20. Now use meth spirits and soak about two or thre patches. Run the meth soaked patches through the barrel. Methylated spirits help "push" any remaining oil or solvents out while not lining the bore with a liquid that will dry or "bake" into the bore when fired.
21. After the three meth patches run two dry patches.
22. Remove the bore guide and use a tooth brush, patches and bore brush to clean out the chamber, breach, etc.
23. If you have it use a shotgun mop/nylon brush to clean the chamber thoroughly as a fouled up chamber can cause stiff bolt lift and ejection problems.
24. Clean the rod, brushes, jag, and bore guide. Never leave them up dirty.
25. If the rifle is being stored away for a few weeks i roll up a soft cloth and place it into the chamber up against the breach and store barrel up.
26. On the off chance that i have somehow missed some residual this will collect it.
27. MOST IMPORTANT. When running the rod down the barrel each time (regardless whether it's a patch or mop or brush, have a rag and wipe the shaft of the rod after each run. This removes any fouling/dirt on the rod and makes sure you're not running dirt back down the barrel.

Most will have there own method. Its as personal as ammo choice, rifle choice, etc. One small tip though. Each time you run the rod up the gun have a cloth in hand to wipe the rod. This prevents any residue or gunk from the barrel sticking to the rod, and being run up and down the barrel like a paste.

alan86

@Cass thanks so much for put such time and effort into those last 2 posts I really appreciate it.. with regards to zeroing the rifle it looks like it’s something you get better at over time.

I met the rifle dealer yesterday evening he is to get back on me with a price to rebarrel the rifle to .223. I also got a price on ammo. He quoted a box of ammo for the .17 rem at around €50and the .223 around €30? Are these responsible prices?

I’m still trying to figure out if I shoul rebarrel the rifle for a saving of €20 per box and also it is much easier come by or put the money im looking at spending on getting the rifle rebarreled and buy a cheep .22lr to gain experience with? That’s assuming I would be issued a licence fir a third gun. Any opinions on this welcome.

Cass

alan86 wrote: »

with regards to zeroing the rifle it looks like it’s something you get better at over time.

You do. You develop your own way and it becomes second nature to you. However don't get complacent. I've had times when after 10 rounds i'm still not on paper. It's usually a stupid mistake by me or something i've overlooked. My usual mistake is dialing the scope the wrong way.

I met the rifle dealer yesterday evening he is to get back on me with a price to rebarrel the rifle to .223. I also got a price on ammo. He quoted a box of ammo for the .17 rem at around €50and the .223 around €30? Are these responsible prices?

I don't know much about the cost of .17 Rem ammo. i've seen it, occasionally, in some dealers however i wouldn't say it's easily available nor scarce as i don't normally look out for it. I do know that a mate has one and ammo can be expensive enough but with regard actual prices, not sure at all.


As for the 223 ammo that €30 price would be the upper end of stuff. I've bought ammo, crap ammo, for as little as €5 per box of 20. Depending on brand you can pay €13, €20, €24, €27, €30, €32 per box of 20 and again depending on the brand €37 to €49 per box of 50.

Plus the 223 is available everywhere. I've never seen a dealer that did not stock 223 ammo.

I’m still trying to figure out if I shoul rebarrel the rifle for a saving of €20 per box and also it is much easier come by or put the money im looking at spending on getting the rifle rebarreled and buy a cheep .22lr to gain experience with? That’s assuming I would be issued a licence fir a third gun. Any opinions on this welcome.

That is something i couldn't answer for you as it's your decision.

I've always found, myself, that i never really save money on ammo. If a box of .17Rem is €50 and the 223 is €25, i'm going to buy two boxes of 223. So the money is gone regardless.

The question i'd ask myself if i were in your position is can the .17Rem do anything the 223 cannot? Make out a list of pros and cons. For example:

.17Rem

Cons

• Ammo not as available
• Twice as expensive to run
• Resale value

Pros

• Flatter shooting

223 Rem

Cons

• Not as flat shooting

Pros

• Available anywhere
• Plenty of ammo
• Cheaper ammo
• Good resale

Have a look at this chart. I've compared the 20gr .17Rem against the .40gr 223 (about as small as each can be gotten in).

The .17Rem is flatter shooting than the 223, but for me not to the extent that it'd blow the 223 away. I mean a 2" difference at 300 yards is not that much, plus the 223 has almost identical performance in terms of wind drift at the same distances.

A values are the .17 Rem
B values are the 223 Rem




The other option, and i'm not sure if someone mentioned it above is to trade the 17 for a 223, and use any money you were going to spend on rebarreling to pay the difference. If you rebarrel you won't be able to keep the 17 barrel unless you license both calibers, so if you're going to be short the 17 anyway why not get rid of and start from fresh with a new rifle already set up?

Zxthinger

You'll be waiting a while to sell a 17Rem. And the only way to shift it is to sell super cheap. It's my experience that people really only want the action off such a sale.

alan86

Cass wrote: »

You do. You develop your own way and it becomes second nature to you. However don't get complacent. I've had times when after 10 rounds i'm still not on paper. It's usually a stupid mistake by me or something i've overlooked. My usual mistake is dialing the scope the wrong way.


I don't know much about the cost of .17 Rem ammo. i've seen it, occasionally, in some dealers however i wouldn't say it's easily available nor scarce as i don't normally look out for it. I do know that a mate has one and ammo can be expensive enough but with regard actual prices, not sure at all.


As for the 223 ammo that €30 price would be the upper end of stuff. I've bought ammo, crap ammo, for as little as €5 per box of 20. Depending on brand you can pay €13, €20, €24, €27, €30, €32 per box of 20 and again depending on the brand €37 to €49 per box of 50.

Plus the 223 is available everywhere. I've never seen a dealer that did not stock 223 ammo.


That is something i couldn't answer for you as it's your decision.

I've always found, myself, that i never really save money on ammo. If a box of .17Rem is €50 and the 223 is €25, i'm going to buy two boxes of 223. So the money is gone regardless.

The question i'd ask myself if i were in your position is can the .17Rem do anything the 223 cannot? Make out a list of pros and cons. For example:

.17Rem

Cons

• Ammo not as available
• Twice as expensive to run
• Resale value

Pros

• Flatter shooting

223 Rem

Cons

• Not as flat shooting

Pros

• Available anywhere
• Plenty of ammo
• Cheaper ammo
• Good resale

Have a look at this chart. I've compared the 20gr .17Rem against the .40gr 223 (about as small as each can be gotten in).

The .17Rem is flatter shooting than the 223, but for me not to the extent that it'd blow the 223 away. I mean a 2" difference at 300 yards is not that much, plus the 223 has almost identical performance in terms of wind drift at the same distances.

A values are the .17 Rem
B values are the 223 Rem




The other option, and i'm not sure if someone mentioned it above is to trade the 17 for a 223, and use any money you were going to spend on rebarreling to pay the difference. If you rebarrel you won't be able to keep the 17 barrel unless you license both calibers, so if you're going to be short the 17 anyway why not get rid of and start from fresh with a new rifle already set up?

Another massive response thanks very much for putting so much detail in your response again. I think if the cost of getting it rebarreled to .223 Is reasonable I will go with it as it looks to be the best bet in the long run. I have contacted my local dealer and I also contacted Dominic Byrne today so I’m waiting for a price from both of them

I’m kind of moving away from trading it in as the dealer wasn’t very keen on it and he more or less said he would take and try and see it to me

alan86

So to follow up on this lads I got a price from Dominic Byrne he said between €700 and €1200. He said he could either rebarrel it to .223 or .204 ruger.

I told him I would have a think about it. In the mean time I have been trying to buy .17rem ammo and it has been next to impossible so I think I will be going down the route of getting it rebarreled thanks for everyone’s input on this.

Cass

Have you tried anyone else? There are a few gunsmiths out there so look around.

One lad to try is John Murphy Rifles. He is currently away at the Creedmoor and South Western Nationals in the States, but he has contact details on his facebook page. He is based in Laois.

alan86

Cass wrote: »

Have you tried anyone else? There are a few gunsmiths out there so look around.

One lad to try is John Murphy Rifles. He is currently away at the Creedmoor and South Western Nationals in the States, but he has contact details on his facebook page. He is based in Laois.

Thanks very much Cass I will send him a message on Facebook now. My local firearms dealer was to get a quote for me after ringing him on 4 separate ocasions he still hadn’t any price for me I got the opinion from him he wasnted me to buy a .223 off of him instead and he got a bit cranky with me the last time I called so I done with him. I will let ya know how I get on

tac foley

alan86 wrote: »

So to follow up on this lads I got a price from Dominic Byrne he said between €700 and €1200. He said he could either rebarrel it to .223 or .204 ruger.

I can't believe that Mr Byrne is serious with a quote like that - especially one with eu500 difference...

That quote, IMO, is totally tearing the a$$ out of it. A new rifle, in the calibre you want - Savage/Remington/CZ/Bergara/Howa, maye even a Tikka - is about the same price. Buying a .223 Rem rifle second-hand is as easy as going to the fish and chip shop - in that case you have a HUGE choice, up to and including the likes of SAKO.

garv123

That's obviously the price depending on what barrel you go for? You should look around for a second hand original barrel if your not gonna be getting into serious target shooting.
Some gun smiths might even have them left over.

alan86

tac foley wrote: »

I can't believe that Mr Byrne is serious with a quote like that - especially one with eu500 difference...

That quote, IMO, is totally tearing the a$$ out of it. A new rifle, in the calibre you want - Savage/Remington/CZ/Bergara/Howa, maye even a Tikka - is about the same price. Buying a .223 Rem rifle second-hand is as easy as going to the fish and chip shop - in that case you have a HUGE choice, up to and including the likes of SAKO.

I have a feeling what he is quoting are good quality barrels however I wil only be doing a bit of vermin shooting with this rifle.

If I hadn’t been giving this rifle for nothing I would just get rid of it at this stage as it’s start to become a bit of a pain in the arse and pick up a second hand .223

alan86

garv123 wrote: »

That's obviously the price depending on what barrel you go for? You should look around for a second hand original barrel if your not gonna be getting into serious target shooting.
Some gun smiths might even have them left over.

I would imagine so, no I will only be using this for vermin shooting. is there anywhere I can get a list of all gun smiths located in the ROI?

rugerfanatic

McBride in Athlone has 17 Rem ammo & delivers

tac foley

http://www.border-barrels.com/

£650 and up.

But eu1200?

Not on your life.

lefthooker

tac foley wrote: »

http://www.border-barrels.com/

£650 and up.

But eu1200?

Not on your life.

I’d imagine €1200 is the quote for a Proof Research carbon fibre barrel job.

tac foley

Border Barrels charge ~£750 for a top-of-the-line 30" Bartlein barrel with your choice of profile, as used by benchresters, F-class and F-TR.

I can't comprehend a charge of eu1200 for a cooking common calibre on a factory-made rifle that probably cost less than eu1000 when it was new.

It's charges like that, for a day-to-day job like that, that give the gun trade an unfortunate reputation for being grasping opportunists.

zeissman

tac foley wrote: »

Border Barrels charge ~£750 for a top-of-the-line 30" Bartlein barrel with your choice of profile, as used by benchresters, F-class and F-TR.

I can't comprehend a charge of eu1200 for a cooking common calibre on a factory-made rifle that probably cost less than eu1000 when it was new.

It's charges like that, for a day-to-day job like that, that give the gun trade an unfortunate reputation for being grasping opportunists.

Are you sure that's a bartlein barrel tac ?
The reason I ask is that border make their own button and cut rifle barrels under the name of sassen.
Bartlein and Krieger are the most expensive. My mate has sent his rifle to the UK to have a bartlein barrel fitted.
The cost is £950 plus shipping which will be around £1000 which would be about €1175 at the current exchange rate. A sassen barrel would of been £750 with the same gunsmith.

TheBoyConor

If you don't know what you are doing then you shouldn't be fiddling or winging it trying to do a DIY zeroing. Get a proper gunsmith to do it.

tac foley

zeissman wrote: »

Are you sure that's a bartlein barrel tac ?
The reason I ask is that border make their own button and cut rifle barrels under the name of sassen.
Bartlein and Krieger are the most expensive. My mate has sent his rifle to the UK to have a bartlein barrel fitted.
The cost is £950 plus shipping which will be around £1000 which would be about €1175 at the current exchange rate. A sassen barrel would of been £750 with the same gunsmith.

I guess that my information is out of date. Thanks for putting me right. However, I don't understand why somebody would want to pay more for a barrel than the cost of another rifle in the calibre he wants.

zeissman

tac foley wrote: »

I guess that my information is out of date. Thanks for putting me right. However, I don't understand why somebody would want to pay more for a barrel than the cost of another rifle in the calibre he wants.

In my mates case he has been unfortunate in the last couple of factory rifles he bought as accuracy was poor.
He has another rifle with a custom barrel which is a tackdriver so he decided to go the custom barrel route again rather than chance another factory job.

alan86

rugerfanatic wrote: »

McBride in Athlone has 17 Rem ammo & delivers

Tried them do you know of anywhere else?

rugerfanatic

alan86 wrote: »

Tried them do you know of anywhere else?

Not atm

electrichunter

try giving gary baron in ennis a call on rebarrelling im not sure if he does but he has lathe in operation.