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MagnaClean Filter

  • 06-11-2018 9:03pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭


    I was wondering has anyone any experience of the following?



    https://www.adey.com/product/magnaclean-professional2xp


    I done a search on forum and didn't see many mentions. I was recommended to install and after looking at some videos it seems like a good product. A lot of installations in the UK


    Just wondering has anyone installed in Ireland?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,692 ✭✭✭Payton


    From what I know they are fairly common if your getting an upgrade or a plumber should be able to install it for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭dar_cool


    We got new boiler and controls last year and this was installed too. Id say like above poster fairly common now


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Payton wrote: »
    From what I know they are fairly common if your getting an upgrade or a plumber should be able to install it for you.


    I was going to buy in from UK then try and get someone local to install...




    I was interested in then doing the following:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xG2aPuN3wg8


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭Glen Immal


    Great bit of kit. I’m not a plumber but I’ve repaired and flushed out a number of heating systems in my day, you will not believe the kilos of sludge and crap that can be distroying and stealing effiency from your heating, I fitted one a year ago in my own house and it collected a fair amount of ****e, but easy to clean and now the water in my rads is clean and rads are super quick to heat with no cold spots. Worth the cost in reduced maintenance and fuel costs


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Glen Immal wrote: »
    Great bit of kit. I’m not a plumber but I’ve repaired and flushed out a number of heating systems in my day, you will not believe the kilos of sludge and crap that can be distroying and stealing effiency from your heating, I fitted one a year ago in my own house and it collected a fair amount of ****e, but easy to clean and now the water in my rads is clean and rads are super quick to heat with no cold spots. Worth the cost in reduced maintenance and fuel costs




    Did you buy any of the add on products?



    https://www.adey.com/product/mc3-cleaner


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭Glen Immal


    No, I just flushed and vibrated the rads to shift the gunk, then drained down system and refilled with clean water, dosed with tech 7 plumb which is a leak sealer and system inhibiter, system still clean a year later, mag filter only collects a minute amount of crap now. I was worried that flushing would expose weak spots in system and cause leaks, hence the tech 7


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Glen Immal wrote: »
    No, I just flushed and vibrated the rads to shift the gunk, then drained down system and refilled with clean water, dosed with tech 7 plumb which is a leak sealer and system inhibiter, system still clean a year later, mag filter only collects a minute amount of crap now. I was worried that flushing would expose weak spots in system and cause leaks, hence the tech 7

    If there’s a weak spot there’s no point in covering it up. Tech 7 won’t make it any stronger.
    Op, don’t install a magnaclean unit unless the system is properly powerflushed beforehand. By all means all texh7 after if you feel the need to. It’s no harm.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Glen Immal wrote: »
    No, I just flushed and vibrated the rads to shift the gunk, then drained down system and refilled with clean water, dosed with tech 7 plumb which is a leak sealer and system inhibiter, system still clean a year later, mag filter only collects a minute amount of crap now. I was worried that flushing would expose weak spots in system and cause leaks, hence the tech 7


    I was told never to install Tec7 if you can get away with it. It is not good for the boilers/rads etc.....


    I know I had a small leak in previous house and one plumber came in and wanted to fire in 2 bottles. I talked to a few people and they said not to bother. That was a terrible job and probably wouldn't fix the leak anyway.


    [COLOR=inherit !important]


    #s3gt_translate_tooltip_mini { display: none !important; }[/COLOR]


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    If there’s a weak spot there’s no point in covering it up. Tech 7 won’t make it any stronger.
    Op, don’t install a magnaclean unit unless the system is properly powerflushed beforehand. By all means all texh7 after if you feel the need to. It’s no harm.




    80% of the system where installed less than 2 years ago with new radiators/pipes etc.


    Their is a couple of older radiators but they got installed in 2006. Not really an old system. Not sure it would require a powerflush for such a new system.


    if I emptied the system and filled back with water when installing the MagnaClean would that not be the best option?



    New water was put into system when new rads etc got installed


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    80% of the system where installed less than 2 years ago with new radiators/pipes etc.


    Their is a couple of older radiators but they got installed in 2006. Not really an old system. Not sure it would require a powerflush for such a new system.


    if I emptied the system and filled back with water when installing the MagnaClean would that not be the best option?



    New water was put into system when new rads etc got installed

    You should be fine so. Just remember their purpose is to protect boilers, not systems, against sludge buildup


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just wondering has anyone connected to a pipe horizontal instead of vertical. The pipes come into the boiler in my house horizontal....dont think it would make difference but jsut wondering


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭Glen Immal


    Don’t think the orientation of the pipes will matter as the water is pumped through, although the filter bowl must be upright obviously


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Glen Immal wrote: »
    Don’t think the orientation of the pipes will matter as the water is pumped through, although the filter bowl must be upright obviously

    Yea pretty much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 221 ✭✭Latro


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Just wondering has anyone connected to a pipe horizontal instead of vertical. The pipes come into the boiler in my house horizontal....dont think it would make difference but jsut wondering


    It is covered in the installation manual how to connect it to horizontal pipe.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Latro wrote: »
    It is covered in the installation manual how to connect it to horizontal pipe.


    Found it after I asked the question


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Anyone use the non branded versions?

    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/222380053980


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Anyone use the non branded versions?

    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/222380053980

    Rubbish. Bad seals and weak magnets. You get what you pay for


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 169 ✭✭serox_21


    I've installed a MagnaClean Professional 2 a month ago with upgraded controls. After 4 days of running magnet inside was full of black sludge.
    I've cleaned it almost weekly since then.
    - first 2 times was full of sludge each time.
    - third time just half full.
    I'll clean it again in 2 weeks. Hope will be cleaner.

    I only added inhibitor to my system, no cleaning chemicals or flushes before.(I did drained the system 3-4 times while upgrading my controls).

    Radiators are much hotter now with less time to get to full temperature. Boiler seems quieter as well.

    If anyone installs a magnetic filter I would recommend to buy a quality one(not those cheap ones) and install it as a DIY if have some skills(plumbers might ask to much for a simple job.)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    serox_21 wrote: »
    I've installed a MagnaClean Professional 2 a month ago with upgraded controls. After 4 days of running magnet inside was full of black sludge.
    I've cleaned it almost weekly since then.
    - first 2 times was full of sludge each time.
    - third time just half full.
    I'll clean it again in 2 weeks. Hope will be cleaner.

    I only added inhibitor to my system, no cleaning chemicals or flushes before.(I did drained the system 3-4 times while upgrading my controls).

    Radiators are much hotter now with less time to get to full temperature. Boiler seems quieter as well.

    If anyone installs a magnetic filter I would recommend to buy a quality one(not those cheap ones) and install it as a DIY if have some skills(plumbers might ask to much for a simple job.)

    A bit late now but you should never add inhibitor to a dirty system


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    A bit late now but you should never add inhibitor to a dirty system


    So what, in my system which is fairly new.



    Just install Magnaclean and run for a few months and then install???


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 169 ✭✭serox_21


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    A bit late now but you should never add inhibitor to a dirty system
    This is what the filter is for. It should clean up any sludge.

    Don't want to risk a power flush.

    Inhibitors are supposed to help prevent corrosion/sludge. Why is not OK to add inhibitors?

    I can drain the system and fill it with water only.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    serox_21 wrote: »
    This is what the filter is for. It should clean up any sludge.

    Don't want to risk a power flush.

    Inhibitors are supposed to help prevent corrosion/sludge. Why is not OK to add inhibitors?

    I can drain the system and fill it with water only.


    Read the product data sheet about adding it to a dirty system. I don't have it to hand but I suppose it can be gotten on the www.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 169 ✭✭serox_21


    I've just checked the datasheet of the inhibitor I've used. Doen't say anything about adding to a system that is not cleaned.



    They do recommend to use cleaning chemicals before but nothing about adding to a system that was not power flushed or fully cleaned before.


    I did flush(filled up with water and drained) the system a few times before finally adding inhibitor.

    L.E. Just read the instruction for chemical cleaning product. I might drain the system, fill it up with cleaning chemicals and let it run for a while before having inhibitor added for long term.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    serox_21 wrote: »
    I've just checked the datasheet of the inhibitor I've used. Doen't say anything about adding to a system that is not cleaned.



    They do recommend to use cleaning chemicals before but nothing about adding to a system that was not power flushed or fully cleaned before.


    I did flush(filled up with water and drained) the system a few times before finally adding inhibitor.

    L.E. Just read the instruction for chemical cleaning product. I might drain the system, fill it up with cleaning chemicals and let it run for a while before having inhibitor added for long term.

    That is not flushing. Not even close.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    serox_21 wrote: »
    This is what the filter is for. It should clean up any sludge.

    Don't want to risk a power flush.

    Inhibitors are supposed to help prevent corrosion/sludge. Why is not OK to add inhibitors?

    I can drain the system and fill it with water only.

    No that is not what the filter is for.
    The filter is a boiler protection device. Nothing more. It’ will catch some sludge but will not clean the system.
    Depending on the chemical you used, it causes a mixture with the sludge that can be corrosive to pet piping.
    A Powerflush is not a risk either.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    No that is not what the filter is for.
    The filter is a boiler protection device. Nothing more. It’ will catch some sludge but will not clean the system.
    Depending on the chemical you used, it causes a mixture with the sludge that can be corrosive to pet piping.
    A Powerflush is not a risk either.


    The problem with powerflush is that is stresses the system


    Plus most of the powerflush people around are people doing for a fast buck and dont actually do properly. For a standard person trying to pick the good from the bad is a nightmare.....


    Like what are you supposed to pay per radiator for a power flush?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    The problem with powerflush is that is stresses the system


    Plus most of the powerflush people around are people doing for a fast buck and dont actually do properly. For a standard person trying to pick the good from the bad is a nightmare.....


    Like what are you supposed to pay per radiator for a power flush?

    I don’t know where you get your information from but a Powerflush does not stress the system. The max operating pressure would be maybe 2 bar. That’s standard operating pressure for any system and if a system couldn’t take 3 bar it shouldn’t be in operation tbh.
    As for price, every system is different. But for your average estate Housr with 8-10 radiators and a gas boiler you’ll be looking at around 400-500 Euro. That’s assuming the contractor is using good chemicals and and good machine, not cheap ones.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Just about to buy....

    the 22mm is nearly half the price to the 28mm. If I use the product selector is says 28mm but I am just wondering would the 22mm do the job anyway? I might just need to clean it more often I would guess?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 221 ✭✭Latro


    It will restrict your flow. You have a big house, you'll need it, particularly with the HP.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 221 ✭✭Latro


    Ebay atm 150 euro with postage.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    Talked to my plumber, he said normally you install these in gas rather than oil system but said he would install no problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 892 ✭✭✭xl500




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 175 ✭✭luap_42


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    If there’s a weak spot there’s no point in covering it up. Tech 7 won’t make it any stronger.
    Op, don’t install a magnaclean unit unless the system is properly powerflushed beforehand. By all means all texh7 after if you feel the need to. It’s no harm.

    It's no harm? Really? Not a fan then? Invested too much in powerflushing more like.

    First there is no need to powerflush. Adey's Magnacleanse system is just as effective with multiple advantages. It is cheaper, quicker, cleaner, more compact, uses the boiler's water pump and CH water to operate, and is just as effective as powerflushing regardless of your flawed assertions. Furthermore, if you fit a magnetic filter FIRST, then you already have your isolation valves and access to the boiler return to use either the Magnacleanse OR powerflushing. So for ease of access as well as the magnetic filtering they are highly recommended.

    And why do some boilers come with extended warranty if the magnetic filter is fitted then? Obviously they are only going to increase warranty cover because the system lasts longer with one fitted?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    luap_42 wrote: »
    It's no harm? Really? Not a fan then? Invested too much in powerflushing more like.

    First there is no need to powerflush. Adey's Magnacleanse system is just as effective with multiple advantages. It is cheaper, quicker, cleaner, more compact, uses the boiler's water pump and CH water to operate, and is just as effective as powerflushing regardless of your flawed assertions. Furthermore, if you fit a magnetic filter FIRST, then you already have your isolation valves and access to the boiler return to use either the Magnacleanse OR powerflushing. So for ease of access as well as the magnetic filtering they are highly recommended.

    And why do some boilers come with extended warranty if the magnetic filter is fitted then? Obviously they are only going to increase warranty cover because the system lasts longer with one fitted?

    Your very wrong in your assumptions and those who believe your misguided advice will pay more in the long run, dealing with contaminated heating systems is not rocket science and there is a simplistic time proven process which Dtp1979 and those like him can explain to you based on their time spent cleaning heating systems.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 175 ✭✭luap_42


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    You should be fine so. Just remember their purpose is to protect boilers, not systems, against sludge buildup

    More incorrect assertions.

    Of course they prevent system sludge buildup. What do you think sludge is?

    90% of sludge in CH systems are magnetic particles, which will be trapped by the magnetic filter WHEREVER they originate from in the system.

    In a clean system, sludge particles form from air, water and metal surfaces, but the pressure of the CH system will keep them suspended in the water initially, and so they WILL pass over the magnetic filter which WILL catch them whether they come from rads, HE, pumps etc.

    If there is also good inhibitor in the system, and no leaks (air), then less magnetic particles will form, and those that do will be suspended in the water and then trapped by the magnetic filter.

    It's not a 100% solution for keeping a system clean, but it is definitely the nearest thing to it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    luap_42 wrote: »
    It's no harm? Really? Not a fan then? Invested too much in powerflushing more like.

    First there is no need to powerflush. Adey's Magnacleanse system is just as effective with multiple advantages. It is cheaper, quicker, cleaner, more compact, uses the boiler's water pump and CH water to operate, and is just as effective as powerflushing regardless of your flawed assertions. Furthermore, if you fit a magnetic filter FIRST, then you already have your isolation valves and access to the boiler return to use either the Magnacleanse OR powerflushing. So for ease of access as well as the magnetic filtering they are highly recommended.

    And why do some boilers come with extended warranty if the magnetic filter is fitted then? Obviously they are only going to increase warranty cover because the system lasts longer with one fitted?

    Honestly, I don’t know where to start.
    Nothing, and I mean nothing, is better than a Powerflush. Magnacleanse is quicker? How? Cleaner? How?
    Cheaper yes, then again, you get what you pay for I suppose. Using the boilers pump to create the water velocity needed to move the sludge is not good enough. It’s a diy tool at very best, if not used in conjunction with a good machine. The system pump is NOT good enough.
    The fact that you highlight that it’s great to use the magnet isolation valves for ease in tapping into the system return shows your capabilities. A real plumber wouldn’t fret over such a simple thing. (Don’t forget to remove the actual system pump when cleaning the system properly folks ;))
    Boiler manufacturers do recommend them yes. Thats because they protect the BOILER. That is their sole purpose and they are best fitted on to a clean system. Yes, they will mildly help desludge a system by catching a few rogue particles.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    luap_42 wrote: »
    More incorrect assertions.

    Of course they prevent system sludge buildup. What do you think sludge is?

    90% of sludge in CH systems are magnetic particles, which will be trapped by the magnetic filter WHEREVER they originate from in the system.

    In a clean system, sludge particles form from air, water and metal surfaces, but the pressure of the CH system will keep them suspended in the water initially, and so they WILL pass over the magnetic filter which WILL catch them whether they come from rads, HE, pumps etc.

    If there is also good inhibitor in the system, and no leaks (air), then less magnetic particles will form, and those that do will be suspended in the water and then trapped by the magnetic filter.

    It's not a 100% solution for keeping a system clean, but it is definitely the nearest thing to it.

    In a clean system magnetite doesn’t form.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 175 ✭✭luap_42


    gary71 wrote: »
    Your very wrong in your assumptions and those who believe your misguided advice will pay more in the long wrong, dealing with contaminated heating systems is not rocket science and there is a simplistic time proven process which Dtp1979 and those like him can explain to you based on their time spent cleaning heating systems.

    Yes, it is NOT rocket science. Time proven process? Sure, with cowboys on every corner ready to wreck your boiler by loosening the sludge from rads and it ending up in your pump and heat exchanger. With good magnetic filters the loosened sludge will never get past them and into the pump, or boiler unless it is already there.

    The Magnaclenase system is not rocket science. It loosens the sludge via chemicals and vibration, and then removes the sludge via two large magnets until the water runs clear. It's a similar system to powerflushing without the mess, less water wasted, and half the time to do it, therefore cheaper, and less risk to your boiler.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 175 ✭✭luap_42


    gary71 wrote: »
    In a clean system magnetite doesn’t form.

    Yes, they do. All you need is air, water and metal for particles to begin forming. If there is air in the system then you are already on your way.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    gary71 wrote: »
    In a clean system magnetite doesn’t form.


    Maybe in a closed system....which I still doubt....but it certainly does in an open system.....


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    The problem with powerflush is that a load of cowboys are doing it. Most of them have no idea what they are doing and cause more harm to the system than fixing it.....

    From what I can see, once I have the MagnaClean installed I could potentially look at their option to clean it out which would be a huge plus for me. I will keep the MagnaClean in the loop then and put in some additives

    Done......

    Powerflush and I would bet you some clown will bust something and then walk out the door.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 175 ✭✭luap_42


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Honestly, I don’t know where to start.
    Nothing, and I mean nothing, is better than a Powerflush. Magnacleanse is quicker? How? Cleaner? How?
    Cheaper yes, then again, you get what you pay for I suppose. Using the boilers pump to create the water velocity needed to move the sludge is not good enough. It’s a diy tool at very best, if not used in conjunction with a good machine. The system pump is NOT good enough.
    The fact that you highlight that it’s great to use the magnet isolation valves for ease in tapping into the system return shows your capabilities. A real plumber wouldn’t fret over such a simple thing. (Don’t forget to remove the actual system pump when cleaning the system properly folks ;))
    Boiler manufacturers do recommend them yes. Thats because they protect the BOILER. That is their sole purpose and they are best fitted on to a clean system. Yes, they will mildly help desludge a system by catching a few rogue particles.

    Quicker by half. 2 hours for a whole house. Cleaner by having a completely contained system.

    A few rogue particles! Sure, if you say so. You obviously have a vested interest in selling powerflushing services, and haven't even bothered to to see how much sludge these filters remove from a system without even dosing it.

    If your system is completely blocked up, then the rads are coming off anyway, in which case, your garden hose and a rubber mallet will do that job.

    There is a place for powerflushing with heavily blocked systems, but for most purposes, the Magnacleanse does the job just as good, cheaper, quicker, cleaner. And no cowboys in sight.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Maybe in a closed system....which I still doubt....but it certainly does in an open system.....

    A clean system with no leaks which has inhibitor added to it every 4-5 years will stay very clean, I know this because it was common place to check the water condition on open vented heating systems during a service for the company I worked for.

    A friend of mine who maintained his own heating system for over 30 years had no magnetite in his open vented heating system


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    gary71 wrote: »
    A clean system with no leaks which has inhibitor added to it every 4-5 years will stay very clean, I know this because it was common place to check the water condition on open vented heating systems during a service for the company I worked for.

    A friend of mine who maintained his own heating system for over 30 years had no magnetite in his open vented heating system


    How many of these systems are in Ireland?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    The problem with powerflush is that a load of cowboys are doing it. Most of them have no idea what they are doing and cause more harm to the system than fixing it.....

    From what I can see, once I have the MagnaClean installed I could potentially look at their option to clean it out which would be a huge plus for me. I will keep the MagnaClean in the loop then and put in some additives

    Done......

    Powerflush and I would bet you some clown will bust something and then walk out the door.....

    The quality of the system water dictates the cleaning level required but most good installers will choose to power flush as a given rather than risk a recall on a new install because they didn’t identify the correct level of contamination.

    Cowboys doing a job doesn’t mean Powerflushimg doesn’t have its place, you can pick any aspect of the gas or oil trade and use the same argument.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    How many of these systems are in Ireland?

    None, why?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    luap_42 wrote: »
    Quicker by half. 2 hours for a whole house. Cleaner by having a completely contained system.

    A few rogue particles! Sure, if you say so. You obviously have a vested interest in selling powerflushing services, and haven't even bothered to to see how much sludge these filters remove from a system without even dosing it.

    If your system is completely blocked up, then the rads are coming off anyway, in which case, your garden hose and a rubber mallet will do that job.

    There is a place for powerflushing with heavily blocked systems, but for most purposes, the Magnacleanse does the job just as good, cheaper, quicker, cleaner. And no cowboys in sight.

    O NO IT DOESN’T


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 800 ✭✭✭esox28


    Shefwedfan wrote:
    From what I can see, once I have the MagnaClean installed I could potentially look at their option to clean it out which would be a huge plus for me. I will keep the MagnaClean in the loop then and put in some additives


    can i ask how do you get all the cleaning addictive out of the ch system after you've completed the flush through the magnaclense and removed all of the sludge? do you test for 'total desolved solids' TDS and ph levels before and after clensing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Maybe in a closed system....which I still doubt....but it certainly does in an open system.....

    No. You’re wrong


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    luap_42 wrote: »
    Quicker by half. 2 hours for a whole house. Cleaner by having a completely contained system.

    A few rogue particles! Sure, if you say so. You obviously have a vested interest in selling powerflushing services, and haven't even bothered to to see how much sludge these filters remove from a system without even dosing it.

    If your system is completely blocked up, then the rads are coming off anyway, in which case, your garden hose and a rubber mallet will do that job.

    There is a place for powerflushing with heavily blocked systems, but for most purposes, the Magnacleanse does the job just as good, cheaper, quicker, cleaner. And no cowboys in sight.

    I use the powerflushing machine in CONJUNCTION with a large Kamco magnet, and if the system is really bad I’ll add my magnacleanse doubt magnet in series with it too. Therefore no loosened dirt gets anywhere near the boiler. I don’t know where you’re getting your info from. Maybe stop reading off the back of a leaflet that some clown is advertising magnacleanse. It’s a slower, less effective way of cleaning a system.


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