Now Ye're Talking - to a woman travelling South America

I'm travelling South America, AMA

makeorbrake wrote: »

I'd started reading up on Galapagos. Is this only available via organised tour...or can you just take a flight out there?

I assume its much more expensive?

It is ... its not for a backpacker budget but the way I did it cost me around 2,000EUR.
Fly into one island, out from the other. Written about it a couple of times on the blog - the T&C probably most relevant http://gingergypsy.ie/galapagos-part-3-the-tcs/

funkey_monkey

Do you do mostly group tours or how to you visit sites and places of interest?

How do you research where you want to go and want you want to see in an area?

How do you find the food so far - what is your favourite/least favourite dish? Strange you didn't like Peruvian cuisine as it is getting lots of accolades at the minute!

I'm a single traveller too. However, I guess I'm a lot older than you (I'm 40!). Do you think that hostels is the only way of doing a trip solo and not getting a feeling of cabin fever/isolation/loneliness?

How is your Spanish now?

Did you consider Suriname, French Guiana or Guyana? The ones at the top seem a bit mad. Suriname president doesn't seem like a great fella.

How much of travel do you think is people doing what they want and how much do you think is box ticking?

I'm travelling South America, AMA

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Do you do mostly group tours or how to you visit sites and places of interest?

How do you research where you want to go and want you want to see in an area?

How do you find the food so far - what is your favourite/least favourite dish? Strange you didn't like Peruvian cuisine as it is getting lots of accolades at the minute!

I'm a single traveller too. However, I guess I'm a lot older than you (I'm 40!). Do you think that hostels is the only way of doing a trip solo and not getting a feeling of cabin fever/isolation/loneliness?

How is your Spanish now?

Did you consider Suriname, French Guiana or Guyana? The ones at the top seem a bit mad. Suriname president doesn't seem like a great fella.

How much of travel do you think is people doing what they want and how much do you think is box ticking?

BRILLIANT questions, thank you

How I visit tourist attractions depends on the country. Every country except for Brazil I have done it myself, via local transport. Which usually means many busses, getting lost and somehow finding a friendly local to point me in the right direction. I have done some tours in Peru where I felt things were a lot harder for the ''independent'' traveller.

Brazil was different, purely because of safety. It's one of the reasons Brazil cost me a lot more money than I expected as I did an organized tour every day in Rio - doing things I would have usually done on my own in other countries (like visit Cristo and the Lapa Steps for example)

I trust past travellers opinions for where to go, but I am also guilty of the ole travel blog and Trip Advisor stalk. As I said, I dumped my Lonely Planet but if I find one in a hostel (which most have) then I check it out before I leave to see if I've missed anything.

In Lima I didn't go to the flash as restauraunts as I couldn't afford it but the food was pretty average I thought. They do have a terrific version of sushi though if you are in the area you should most certainly check it out - simply beautiful. Food has been good,Bolivia actually has been the most impressive in terms of expectation and reality! In NZ I was vegan, I tried vegetarian here for a few months but found the meals never had protein so I now eat meat a couple of times a week simply for the protein.

I think hostels are great for meeting travellers but I should do more AirBNB. I met a guy recently who swaps between the two and he has had some amazing experiences with AirBNB. I love the idea of making friends with locals but I guess safety concerns make me cautious. Which is crazy as I am sure the reviewed options are fine, but this guy had his best experiences with new sign ups with 0 reviews and was helping their rating. I've met lots of couples who do the AirNBNB thing too and only come to hostels if they need a break from each other haha.

I like hostels, but I also LOVE my own company. So sometimes I am that rude person who doesn't talk to anyone for a day because I literally need to recharge my batteries. In hostels you are surrounded every single day, you don't even sleep alone. I joke I have a quota of 2 new friends per day, after that I don't talk to anyone new. Its a joke . . but some times I do stick to it

The best of both worlds which a lot of digital nomads do is rent a private room in a hostel - perfect!

My Spanish is as good as the person communicating with me wants to be understood. I don't know if that makes much sense, let me explain. If I meet someone who appreciates I am foreign and talks with me slowly and clearly, I am on the pigs back. But when they go Speedy Gonzales and in slang then I am 100% lost. Usually though I am somewhere in the middle. My one ''regret'' was that I didn't start learning earlier.

I am freaking out at the time I have already so I don't want to add in anywhere else. At the moment it looks like I will skip Panama and Costa Rica, fly Colombia to Nicaragua then into Guatemala. Then out to NZ from there, so I am missing Honduras, El Salvador, Belize and Mexico too.

I think lots of people are box ticking, and to be honest I guess I am too to a certain degree. I find there are definite groups though, those who are unemployed and travelling before they start the next chapter. Those who are trying to find themselves. Those who are running from something. Those who are just looking to relive their usual Saturday night at home in every country. It takes all sorts hey!?

miamee

Do you consider yourself to still be 'travelling' when in NZ or is that home now? Have you done a lot of travelling in New Zealand itself? I visited about 10 years ago for two weeks and I absolutely loved it, I wish I had extended my stay (it was part of a bigger itinerary). I plan to go back some day. That's the last time I was backpacking in hostels but I still remember a few tricks like how to pack light; how to shower, dry and get dressed in a shower cubicle without touching the floor or the walls (:pac:).

Have you learned anything while backpacking that you never knew you needed to know?

I'm travelling South America, AMA

miamee wrote: »

Do you consider yourself to still be 'travelling' when in NZ or is that home now? Have you done a lot of travelling in New Zealand itself? I visited about 10 years ago for two weeks and I absolutely loved it, I wish I had extended my stay (it was part of a bigger itinerary). I plan to go back some day. That's the last time I was backpacking in hostels but I still remember a few tricks like how to pack light; how to shower, dry and get dressed in a shower cubicle without touching the floor or the walls (:pac:).

Have you learned anything while backpacking that you never knew you needed to know?

Hey Miamee
Thank you for the questions!

Nz is pretty special eh? When I landed it was only for a month. That turned into 3 months. That turned into a year..... The rest is history! I have travelled it twice on my own and twice when my parents have visited.

Kiwis love their country so much, I am lucky to have a lot of Kiwi friends so I spend a lot of time with them on weekends, exploring. I simply adore it but its quite an expensive country - to live in and to travel! Its often cheaper to travel to a Pacific Island than it is to go to the South Island!

I do clasify it as still travelling - I guess because even though I use it as a base I travel a lot from there, at least 4 to 5 times a year. However, Ireland is certainly calling me home - something about living on the opposite side of the world from your aging parents plays with your heart strings. I will move home within the next 2 years I think. What a shock that will be.

I think the biggest thing I have learned is I am a lot tougher and more resilient than I ever realized. That has been a massive eye opener.

In saying that, I have learned SO much! My main takeaways so far are:
Pack lighter than you ever think you need to.
If you have a Kindle, download your local libraries app on your phone- you can RENT e-books and read them on your phone or your Kindle if it allows.
I can never travel long term.
Latinos are incredibly innovative cooks, with few ingredients. Be more like Latinos.
Solo travel is wonderful but confrontational. You have nowhere to hide. You have to deal with the $hit about yourself you don't like. You are the only one you have to count on.
Not every place is brilliant as brilliant as some will have you believe. Opinions differ.
Do not look at the sheets, do not question whats in your meal, never touch a shower curtain, accept this is how you smell now.
99.999% of people are amazing humans. 99.999% of countries are not as dangerous as the media has you believe. 99.999% of suffering is temporary.

Happy travels!

makeorbrake

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

I am freaking out at the time I have already so I don't want to add in anywhere else. At the moment it looks like I will skip Panama and Costa Rica, fly Colombia to Nicaragua then into Guatemala. Then out to NZ from there, so I am missing Honduras, El Salvador, Belize and Mexico too.

I think that's wise re. Panama and Costa Rica. They're both pretty expensive. I spent a month in Panama - it was alright but I wouldn't be all that gone on it. Too many Americans have moved in to CR, spoiling it.
Honduras has the highest homicide rate in the World and Mexico is heading towards failed state status with the narco problem.
As regards Nicaragua, Managua a bit too scruffy for me. San Juan del Sur is small but nice. Also Leon worthwhile. I never made it to Granada but supposed to be nice. Also Bluefields/Corn Island to experience Creole/Carribbean culture whilst in Nicaragua.

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

I think lots of people are box ticking, and to be honest I guess I am too to a certain degree.

To hell with box ticking...im doing this for me .. not anyone else!
Having said that, I've been told re. Machine Pichu that there are other equally good sites but without the hordes of tourists? Is that correct?

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

I find there are definite groups though, those who are unemployed and travelling before they start the next chapter. Those who are trying to find themselves. Those who are running from something. Those who are just looking to relive their usual Saturday night at home in every country. It takes all sorts hey!?

Which one are you!?
For me, I guess I'm running away from the rat race and ground hog day....and of course, the experience and immersion into a totally different culture (s).
I'm already finding it healthy. It's got me up off the couch (as I don't have one) and having to burn more carbs as no jammer and lots of hiking about.

I'm travelling South America, AMA

makeorbreak - Did you cross the border okay???

I have a lot of recomendations for Nicaragua and Guatemala, I am excited to check them out! I do love a good passport stamp though and flights between Colombia and Nicar are quite dear so I may go via land and cross them quick.

Machu Picchu is amazing - it blows you away, everything you have seen in the pictures pales in comparison. I did Salkantay to get there, a 5 day hike and the day we got to the top was a mixture of excitement and exhaustion. Our group got to the gates first so we were the first people to enter that day, it was crystal clear and we got some special moments before the hoards arrived. From 6am to about 8am its busy but okay, from then on forget about it - its mayhem. In saying that, it is special and cannot be missed in my opinion.

Sacred Valley has lots of amazing sites, you can buy a ticket to all sites (from memory I think there are 10?!) and it costs $70USD . . another way to ping the travellers.

I am travelling because I also got sick of the corporate world in NZ, my health suffered. But, I thought I'd find ''something'' here - I'm not sure what I expected but I know I haven't found it. I'm not running, I cannot wait to get back to NZ. I'm not finding myself, if anything I've lost myself this year.

stop animal cruelty

I was recently talking to a Brazilian couple, they told me not to go there for a few years because its too dangerous atm...what do u think of that?

Did u travel to new Zealand on your own? Did u know anyone over there?

How do u manage to charge ur phone and laptop??

Final question! U said if anything u hace lost urself the last year, do u mean that on a good or bad way?

Thanks ps love this thread!!

I'm travelling South America, AMA

stop animal cruelty wrote: »

I was recently talking to a Brazilian couple, they told me not to go there for a few years because its too dangerous atm...what do u think of that?

Did u travel to new Zealand on your own? Did u know anyone over there?

How do u manage to charge ur phone and laptop??

Final question! U said if anything u hace lost urself the last year, do u mean that on a good or bad way?

Thanks ps love this thread!!

Hello again

I lived with a Brazilian flatmate in NZ and he gave me hints and tips of what to do and what not to do. In truth, i ADORED Brazil! I was way more cautious than I have been anywhere else, I only took out the equivilent of 20USD per day, rarely took my phone, removed all jewelry. But I didn't find it any more unsafe than other countries I've been in.

The people are wonderful. Latinos love life, they all do, but Brazilians love it bigger, and brighter, and more colourful. They do everything with passion, which I'm sure has its downsides but for a visitor it is an amazing sight

I think go! Don't let fear put you off. My ex-flatmate was the same, gave me so many cautions but at the end of the day I had to trust myself and my judgement. I am so glad I did.

Brazil is massive, I did 6 weeks and I only touched a smidge of it.

I went to NZ solo, knowing not a sinner. I immediately made friends who I was with for a few months, but I ended up with some of the best friends I've ever had. I think the difference is because I met these people doing activities that I love, so we are very similar. They are my adopted family and I know should I ever need anything I have wonderful people I can rely on.

Argh I'm actually having a tech crisis at the mo, hilarious you asked! I have an adapted that I use for my laptop and Kindle, no bother. But my S7 has started freaking out. I bought two proper Samsung chargers in Medellin the other day and payd almost NZD100 for them... but the charger blew in both of them (It happened with one, I bought another and the same happened!) And now my phone charges at snails pace... Just need it to hold on for another 12 weeks!

But, usually an adapter and you are away. There are lots of cubes and cables here, all knock off but they do the trick.

I've lost myself in a negative and a positive way. Positively, I have shed any limitations I previously thought I had on myself and have learned to trust my gut and intuition.

Negatively it's tough to put into words. I struggle not having as much of an ''identity'' as I did in my previous life. I wore many hats, had many hobbies and labeled myself. Remove them and just hand you a blank canvas and you can feel somewhat unsettled.

We always adapt, we constantly evolve but usually we have some constants; our partners, our home, our jobs, our hobbies. But when you evolve as you are moving every single day it can become somewhat overwhelming.

I am ready to stop evolving

Hope that made sense and wasn't too woo woo! Thank you for reading along Xx

makeorbrake

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

makeorbreak - Did you cross the border okay??

What a ruddy nightmare!
As you know I got stuck in Pasto & Ipiales because of them closing the border so I was well prepared to do the crossing. However, it was frustrating. 6 hours standing in a queue is no fun. For the first 5, I was alright with it (insofar as one could be). The Venezuelans were a happy enough bunch and I tried to remember their circumstances when ever I was getting frustrated. The last hour I was starting to throw my toys out of the pram though. I just couldn't see how they couldn't possibly make a better fist of it.

Got to Tulcan Bus Station and there was this looong queue for bus tickets...then guys started jumping the queue. I was well cranky at this stage and opened up - then the rest of the line behind me chipped in, nearly started a public order event. A nun jumped the queue and a Colombian Woman behind me tackled her saying yer some Christian! :-D

I was glad that I decided on Ibarra Rather than Quito...hate arriving anywhere in SA in the darkness and I had enough of travelling that day. Ibarra is nice - going to give it a few days.

Thanks for the detailed insight on Machu. I was thinking of cutting it out but on the box ticking side of things, it's always something someone will ask you if you travelled SA IE. Did you do it. Was prepared to put up with that if there were other sites that equalled it.

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

I am travelling because I also got sick of the corporate world in NZ, my health suffered. But, I thought I'd find ''something'' here - I'm not sure what I expected but I know I haven't found it. I'm not running, I cannot wait to get back to NZ. I'm not finding myself, if anything I've lost myself this year.

Can't say that I will be delighted to go back but I have to be realistic. That will change as the year goes on. I thought I was staying away permanently - the idea being that I would find somewhere that floated my boat and stick around. However, financial circumstances did not pan out that way. Maybe it's for the best. Aside from it being a healthy change, this year will prove to be a great experience and experiment. I know now that to do something like that over the longer term, there's a need to engage with something and have some purpose (and with that, interest).

makeorbrake

ps. A few posts back, someone mentioned about travelling at 40. I'm 44 - why should all the 20-30-somethings have all the fun. The only reason 40 something's don't do these trips is usually because they are chained down raising kids and paying mortgages. If you're fortunate enough not to be weighed down by that, it's a no brainer. Those same people then try to travel later in life...but if you're much older, chances are you won't have the same experience and will be limited in how you travel.

On the travelling alone thing, im well qualified to speak on that. I love travelling alone but even I occasionally need to come up for air. Then again, travelling alone you're more likely to meet more locals than otherwise and end up in all sorts of situations as a consequence. 90% of the time, the places I stay in are ecomony hotel options rather than hostels - and with that, usually occupied by local nationals rather than gringos. Not the same dynamic for interaction and I guess I'm more at a loss for intel as regards where to check out, etc. There's both good and bad in that. I sometimes don't know how to make the best of a place when I get here. I may wander around aimlessly which can be great if I just bump into places that I otherwise wouldn't ...but can also be frustrating and tiresome if the experience is not so great. Then again, I always say that I don't want the plasticiky touristy experience...and if that's what I buy into, then you have to take the rough with the smooth...to get a real insight into a place, it's people and what makes them tick.

It's all a state of mind really..but also it depends on the nature of the person. Some will find it more difficult than others.

makeorbrake

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

In truth, i ADORED Brazil! I was way more cautious than I have been anywhere else, I only took out the equivilent of 20USD per day, rarely took my phone, removed all jewelry. But I didn't find it any more unsafe than other countries I've been in.

Do you find it more 'unsafe' than Colombia or how does it compare? The problem I found with heeding the dangers of Colombia (and particularly Cali) is that it inhibited my approach to the place. I don't want to trivialise the dangers as you have to be careful and things do happen (as I found out!). However, once I got acquainted with Cali - I didn't find it any more dangerous than anywhere else. That said, the area I was in (Miraflores) was pretty decent and that helps a lot. It didn't stop me from venturing other places that I was told were iffy but awareness is half the battle.

To prove the point that you can't drop your guard completely, I arrived in Pasto last week. Checked the hotel and it was only 10 minutes walk from the bus station - so I figured, I'd just stretch the legs and walk it. I depend heavily on google maps and on the flip side, I've always felt that it's a liabiilty (as otherwise, I'd prefer not to have a phone on display out on the street). Some tramp pulled up on a bike and tried to lift the phone out of my hands - he failed. I had bags with me - so I couldn't tackle him.

Anyways, I'm rambling. Genuinely curious about Brazil as I'd imagine I'll end up at the tail end of my S.American experience. Don't think I'm adventurous enough to cross from Equador...will do a second pass - South to North on the East Coast.

Nekarsulm

Your trip is amazing! I've never been to S.A., but did manage a campervan around NZ for a month back in 2001.
Best piece of advice for the NZ traveller was given to me by a local as the plane came into Auckland.
" Ya see that tower? That's the Sky Tower. While you're in this country, pretend it's the most amazing bloody thing ya ever saw!"
Very proud people, Kiwi's.

I'm travelling South America, AMA

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Your trip is amazing! I've never been to S.A., but did manage a campervan around NZ for a month back in 2001.
Best piece of advice for the NZ traveller was given to me by a local as the plane came into Auckland.
" Ya see that tower? That's the Sky Tower. While you're in this country, pretend it's the most amazing bloody thing ya ever saw!"
Very proud people, Kiwi's.

Hahaha this is true... they either love it or think it looks like a hypodermic needle haha!

SA is amazing and well worth a visit, just need to plan the time you have here correctly and not try do it ALL in 2 weeks

I'm travelling South America, AMA

makeorbrake wrote: »

I'm travelling South America, AMA wrote: »

In truth, i ADORED Brazil! I was way more cautious than I have been anywhere else, I only took out the equivilent of 20USD per day, rarely took my phone, removed all jewelry. But I didn't find it any more unsafe than other countries I've been in.

Do you find it more 'unsafe' than Colombia or how does it compare? /quote]

I find Colombia in general much safer. In saying that I didn't feel overly safe in Cali. I was with my Colombian fella in Bogota and we went on a hike, at the top of the mountain he saw we were being followed. I've never ran down a hill as fast! We walked through some rough areas in Bogotá too to visit his f&f, places you should never go alone are only marginally more safe with a local.

I also find the people with terrible robbery stories are oftentimes off their face on drink/drugs.

Lets hope we both remain safe.

Boards.ie: Niamh

Thanks so much for taking us on your travels with you for a little while - the photos were amazing! I'll have to investigate trips to South America now

I'll close this one up now, it's been lovely.