Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

unkel

rolion wrote: »

WTF are we paying the electrician to do their jobs for !? If the chap says 10 go for 10, otherwise leave the man to do his job.

If we let car salesmen do their jobs and we took their advice, none of us would be driving an EV

icom

Batesy wrote: »

Anyone foresee any Black Friday deals on home charger units??

EV Onestop are doing 25% off all wallpod chargers for Black Friday

https://evonestop.co.uk/collections/black-friday/products/wallpod-ev-charging-unit-type-2-socket-16-32-amp3-6-7-2kw-ip65

Rolec Wallpod Type 2 16/32 amp for £250.80 including VAT

Stealthirl

rolion wrote: »

I dont get the beauty with Zappi in relation to load balancing and load limiting.

From my own testing i can run an electric shower and oven and the car will still charge at 6.6 but stick on the kettle and the car charge drops until something is turned off. The kettle in my test and then it goes back up to 6.6

In my case i have a priority switch already so id have to add another one and it would also be safer to have a soft change rather then a hard stop.

unkel

Stealthirl wrote: »

From my own testing i can run an electric shower and oven and the car will still charge at 6.6

Does not compute.

Standard Irish connection is 63A = 14kW

Shower 9-10kW + car 6.6kW + oven 3kW = 18.6-19.6kW, so not possible. Unless your oven was in the off cycle (it goes on and off all the time on the thermostat) and your shower is a very low power one

Zenith74

unkel wrote: »

Does not compute.

Standard Irish connection is 63A = 14kW

Shower 9-10kW + car 6.6kW + oven 3kW = 18.6-19.6kW, so not possible. Unless your oven was in the off cycle (it goes on and off all the time on the thermostat) and your shower is a very low power one

I'm not sure it's quite that black and white unkel. For example I am looking at a screenshot from my Effergy showing 20kw being drawn (two chargers, oven, kettle, fridge, toaster) which is ~83A. Not sure if I have a 63A or 80A fuse, but either way I would be over it.

That's not to say just because you can draw more than you're supposed to that you should, over loading wiring will not cause an immediate failure, it will just heat up slowly and maybe one time you charge and have a long shower on a sunny day and the heat is enough to start a fire. But just saying the ESB fuse does not necessarily blow the moment you go over 63.001A and wiring does not necessarily fail the minute you overload it either...

DesperateDan

Anyone know what this Zappi tweet means: https://twitter.com/MyEnergiLTD/status/1068039153286172673

unkel

Zenith74 wrote: »

I'm not sure it's quite that black and white unkel. For example I am looking at a screenshot from my Effergy showing 20kw being drawn (two chargers, oven, kettle, fridge, toaster) which is ~83A. Not sure if I have a 63A or 80A fuse, but either way I would be over it.

I'd say you have a 80A supply. I'm no expert on this but I very much doubt a 63A supply would sustain an 83A draw without the fuse blowing.

bonoman66

DesperateDan wrote: »

Anyone know what this Zappi tweet means: https://twitter.com/MyEnergiLTD/status/1068039153286172673

New range of Zappi's being revealed at approx 2:30pm or 3:30 pm today I think..

bonoman66

TheChizler

Anyone watch the event? Any idea when the new one will be available?

rolion

My "juice" charger , charging technical details,as per mobile app:
Wondering why i fitted a 32A cable if Leaf doing only 15A ( i know,the on-board 3.3kw only)

stimpson

rolion wrote: »

My "juice" charger , charging technical details,as per mobile app:
Wondering why i fitted a 32A cable if Leaf doing only 15A ( i know,the on-board 3.3kw only)

Futureproofing. The extra cost of a 32A cable is marginal and if your charger supports 7.2KW then you may as well. I’ve a Zappi with a 32A cable but the Outlander only charges at 3.6KW.

unkel

Every EV for sale today charges at 7kW. It would have been a huge mistake only installing a 16A charger (and 16A rated cables, 16A/25A RCBO, etc.)

DrPhilG

unkel wrote: »

Every EV for sale today charges at 7kW. It would have been a huge mistake only installing a 16A charger (and 16A rated cables, 16A/25A RCBO, etc.)

I'm up to my elbows with some folk on the UK i3 owners page who insist that the i3 will only charge at 3.6kw on an 11kw post if its using a single phase cable.

They also reckon that our 22kw posts are 3x7kw rather than 2x11kw?

I gave up trying to understand it.

ELM327

DrPhilG wrote: »

I'm up to my elbows with some folk on the UK i3 owners page who insist that the i3 will only charge at 3.6kw on an 11kw post if its using a single phase cable.

They also reckon that our 22kw posts are 3x7kw rather than 2x11kw?

I gave up trying to understand it.

Morons.


If you connect to an 11kW post with a 32a single phase cable the i3 should take 32a/7kW not 16a. It can use 2 of the phases to give 32a single phase. At least that's my understanding of it. I stand to be corrected by someone who knows what they are talking about of course! I mean even in my Ioniq I get 7kW 32a from a 11kW 16a 3phn post


How could the post be 3*7kW that doesn't make sense. The UK haven't a clue, they refer to them as "fast chargers" anyway sure :D:D

KCross

DrPhilG wrote: »

I'm up to my elbows with some folk on the UK i3 owners page who insist that the i3 will only charge at 3.6kw on an 11kw post if its using a single phase cable.

They also reckon that our 22kw posts are 3x7kw rather than 2x11kw?

I gave up trying to understand it.

The confusion there Phil is whether it is truly an 11kW post or a 22kW post which you are sucking 11kW from.

If its an 11kW only post it will be 16Ax3ph and if you stick a 1ph cable on that you will only get 16A off it, like they said. So they are right there, imo.

However, most of our SCP's are 22kW (32Ax3ph) so if you stick a 1ph 32A cable on that your i3 will pull 32A from one phase and give you 7kW.

If you stick a 3ph 32A (or 3ph 16A) cable on it you will get 16Ax3p=11kW.


Making sense yet?

Basically an 11kW i3 can pull 16A per phase when connected to a 3ph supply.
And it can pull 32A from one phase when connected to a 1ph supply by combining two 16A rectifier inputs on that one phase.

Stealthirl

unkel wrote: »

Does not compute.

Standard Irish connection is 63A = 14kW

Shower 9-10kW + car 6.6kW + oven 3kW = 18.6-19.6kW, so not possible. Unless your oven was in the off cycle (it goes on and off all the time on the thermostat) and your shower is a very low power one

80A=17.6Kw
But i was wrong about the kettle,it was the oven that dropped the car charge rate

unkel

So you do have a 80A connection?

stimpson

80A is actually 18.4kW as voltage is 230V.

KCross

stimpson wrote: »

80A is actually 18.4kW as voltage is 230V.

You are right, but you won’t have an 80A connection by default unless you paid extra for it.

Are you sure you have an 80A connection?

optimal

Does anyone know if there’s any way to be absolutely sure as to exactly what you are allowed to draw. I can’t find anything on my bill. There is the maximum import capacity but not sure if that only applies to commercial companies. It would be really useful to know.

unkel wrote: »

So you do have a 80A connection?

stimpson

optimal wrote: »

Does anyone know if there’s any way to be absolutely sure as to exactly what you are allowed to draw. I can’t find anything on my bill. There is the maximum import capacity but not sure if that only applies to commercial companies. It would be really useful to know.

The main fuse on your supply coming in to the house. It’s probably 63A.

KCross

optimal wrote: »

Does anyone know if there’s any way to be absolutely sure as to exactly what you are allowed to draw. I can’t find anything on my bill. There is the maximum import capacity but not sure if that only applies to commercial companies. It would be really useful to know.

Not really. The main fuse is just below your outside meter but it’s sealed and you can’t just pull it out to see.

If you didn’t pay for an upgraded supply you should assume you have a 60A fuse in there. Upgraded supply has 80A fuse.

stimpson

KCross wrote: »

Not really. The main fuse is just below your outside meter but it’s sealed and you can’t just pull it out to see.

If you didn’t pay for an upgraded supply you should assume you have a 60A fuse in there. Upgraded supply has 80A fuse.

Yeah my bad. I knew there was something written on the fuse, but it says 60/80A

optimal

stimpson wrote: »

The main fuse on your supply coming in to the house. It’s probably 63A.

So and pardon my ignorance, can you keep drawing power til the fuse trips or will you be charged for going over a set figure?

stimpson

optimal wrote: »

So and pardon my ignorance, can you keep drawing power til the fuse trips or will you be charged for going over a set figure?

It will trip if you go over. And you need to get the esb out to replace it.

The electrician should design the system so that it doesn’t happen, using a priority switch to limit current to the charger when there is another large load or installing a sophisticated charger like the Zappi.

optimal

stimpson wrote: »

It will trip if you go over. And you need to get the esb out to replace it.

The electrician should design the system so that it doesn’t happen, using a priority switch to limit current to the charger when there is another large load or installing a sophisticated charger like the Zappi.

Thanks. I got my Zappi and harvi 😀

KCross

stimpson wrote: »

Yeah my bad. I knew there was something written on the fuse, but it says 60/80A

Yeah the fuse holder is compatible with 60A and 80A. The thing is you dont know which it is unless you open it and eyeball it (breaking the seal, which you are not allowed do)

optimal wrote: »

So and pardon my ignorance, can you keep drawing power til the fuse trips or will you be charged for going over a set figure?

In theory your main fuse on your consumer unit should trip before the fuse in the meter box blows . The fuse on the consumer unit is your responsibility and you can change that yourself.

If, for some reason, the ESB fuse blows you have to get them out to change that and they will charge you for the privilege.

Stealthirl

unkel wrote: »

So you do have a 80A connection?

Yes

stimpson wrote: »

80A is actually 18.4kW as voltage is 230V.

So i could change the limit on the zappy from 17.6 if i was willing to risk the fuse...Think ill just leave it at 17.6

optimal wrote: »

Does anyone know if there’s any way to be absolutely sure as to exactly what you are allowed to draw. I can’t find anything on my bill. There is the maximum import capacity but not sure if that only applies to commercial companies. It would be really useful to know.

Normal supply is 12kVA
Enhanced is 16kVA [you can upgrade to this easily enough if you home is modern]

After that things get expensive as you a liable for any related price to upgrade the line to your house but they offer a 20kVA single phase line and above along with 3 phase.

You can get a separate 12kVA connection for a family apartment

RonnieL

I'm sure it has been stated on this thread previously, but shopping around for charger installation prices is a must. I got two local (SAFE registered) electricians to give me quotes to install a Zappi which I bought with my car. The first came in at 675 plus vat. The second was 200 plus vat. The second lad seemed a lot more clued in too.