Tubeless road - it actually works

brownian

Got the first puncture in ages last weekend, in my tubeless front tyre. It sealed up, but the next day it was back, and I had to put a tube in.

I haven't ever refreshed the sealant, and I reckon this is why the fix (of quite a tiny hole) didn't last. So I took the tube out, poured in new sealant, etc etc, and now it seems to be good as new.

Moral - put in fresh sealant periodically.

harringtonp

H.E. Pennypacker wrote: »

Try leaving it with the valve nearest the ground and see if that helps - might be leaky around the valve or maybe the valve is a bit bunged up with sealant and not fully closed. Otherwise, I’d check the rim tape. It’s worth inflating the tyre with no sealant first time just to see if it leaks. It should hold decent pressure for a week or two without sealant and it’s a lot easier to sort things out if there’s no sealant to clean up.

Tightened the valve lock nut as much as I could with the hand (don't want to use a pliers in case I need to undo it on the road) and left it with the valve nearest the ground as you say. Pressure feels good after 24 hrs.

I presume the thinking behind your suggestion is that if the leak is around the valve and the valve is nearest the ground, then the sealant will be sloshing around there and have a better chance of working. Is this correct ?

H.E. Pennypacker

harringtonp wrote: »

I presume the thinking behind your suggestion is that if the leak is around the valve and the valve is nearest the ground, then the sealant will be sloshing around there and have a better chance of working. Is this correct ?

That's right, especially if you've added a good amount of sealant. I found that the valve core tends to get bunged up with sealant which makes it seem like its fully closed when its not. If its removeable its handy enough to clean the valve core and clear the stem.

kayaksurfbum

Anyone know of a tubeless tan wall tyre? I thought vittoria had one but I cant find it anywhere.

Thanks.

Fighting Tao

Quick Google led me to this and it has a few in it. https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/214416-buyers-guide-tubeless-tyres-all-your-options-new-technology-rubber

Depending on width there are other options such as WTB.

kayaksurfbum

Fighting Tao wrote: »

Quick Google led me to this and it has a few in it. https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/214416-buyers-guide-tubeless-tyres-all-your-options-new-technology-rubber

Depending on width there are other options such as WTB.

Saw that list. I'm looking for 25mm for road. Plenty of wider tyres alright.

Iv got Hutchinson on the bike right now but they are wearing down super fast.

fat bloke

Interested to hear what tubeless tyres people are using or what wheel/tyre combination.

I've got the mavic ksyriums and their oem yksions. Traditionally not a universally loved tyre. In normal tyres I've been a gp4000 user for years now.

What other options are there in a fast / durable tubeless road tyre?

harringtonp

Have only used Schwalbe Pro One 23/25 but happy with them. Good price and fast

Eamonnator

I use Schwalbe Pro ones 25mms on Prime carbon wheels. They roll really well and are very comfortable. To my knowledge, I have punctured 4 times on them. Each time the tyre sealed immediately, in fact twice I didn't realise I'd punctured until I got home and noticed that pressure was slightly down.
However, I am not completely satisfied with the wear. They seem to wear more quickly than my "normal" tyres, which are Continental Grand Prix 4000 II.
When the time comes to change them, I think I'll give the Grand Prix 5000 Tubeless a lash.

who_ru

Eamonnator wrote: »

I use Schwalbe Pro ones 25mms on Prime carbon wheels. They roll really well and are very comfortable. To my knowledge, I have punctured 4 times on them. Each time the tyre sealed immediately, in fact twice I didn't realise I'd punctured until I got home and noticed that pressure was slightly down.
However, I am not completely satisfied with the wear. They seem to wear more quickly than my "normal" tyres, which are Continental Grand Prix 4000 II.
When the time comes to change them, I think I'll give the Grand Prix 5000 Tubeless a lash.

What pressure do you have in them, the lower the pressure the faster the wear I was told recently by a bike shop owner.

Eamonnator

who_ru wrote: »

What pressure do you have in them, the lower the pressure the faster the wear I was told recently by a bike shop owner.

About 95 P.S.I. in the rear, 90 P.S.I. in the front.
I think, I'm just spoiled by the Conti's

kayaksurfbum

Iv got Hutchinson atoms on dura ace c24 wheels. Run 80/90 psi. Super grippy but are wearing down really fast.

fat bloke

So do Mavic make tubed and tubeless versions of the 5000's then or is it one tyre that can take either?

Plastik

The 5000TL is tubeless specific.

Leroy42

Eamonnator wrote: »

About 95 P.S.I. in the rear, 90 P.S.I. in the front.
I think, I'm just spoiled by the Conti's

I thought one of the advantages of tubeless was to run at much lower pressures?

harringtonp

Run mine at 80/75 , weigh 80kg. And was advised by wheel builder to run even lower

Fighting Tao

I run 700c at 80 and 85 psi and I’m well over 100kg.

My 650b's are 50 and 55 psi and I’ve been told I can easily run them lower.

Eamonnator

Leroy42 wrote: »

I thought one of the advantages of tubeless was to run at much lower pressures?

For me that is lower pressure.

G1032

harringtonp wrote: »

Run mine at 80/75 , weigh 80kg. And was advised by wheel builder to run even lower

Recently got Ksyrium UST wheels. 25mm tires.

I'm 74kg.

First ride on the wheels I had pressure set to 95/90. Bike was hopping along the road!!

Last spin out I set to 80/85 and there was a noticeable improvement in comfort. But going by what harringtonp has said I'll try 80/75 next time and see how that goes.

MediaMan

Running Schwalbe Pro Ones on DT Swiss wheels. When installing, front wheel sealed first time, rear was a nightmare, in part I believe due to the asymmetric rim. After about 20 failed attempts, had to add gorilla tape to improve the seal and now it it's fine. Very happy with the tyres. Roll well, grip well, 85/80 psi, 74 kg. No punctures after 6 months (jinx!).

Cee-Jay-Cee

G1032 wrote: »

Recently got Ksyrium UST wheels. 25mm tires.

I'm 74kg.

First ride on the wheels I had pressure set to 95/90. Bike was hopping along the road!!

Last spin out I set to 80/85 and there was a noticeable improvement in comfort. But going by what harringtonp has said I'll try 80/75 next time and see how that goes.

I'm 76kg and run my 25mm GP4000's with latex tubes at 75/70. Anything more is unnecessary IMO.

Resoguy

Started setting up my wheels tubeless over the last couple of months so thanks to previous posters on here for tips. The guys in the Giant Store had done the tubeless setup initially last November when I got a new wheelset using my old '38mm Giant Crosscut 2' gravel tyres, I was setting up new '38mm Panaracer Gravelkings (brown sidewall)',slicker fine file thread tyres. I initially tried to use kit I already had so a floor pump, soapy water, seating once side of the tire with an inner tube etc, tried a small car tire compressor for about half an hour but no luck so I bought a Schwalbe Tire Booster, sorted. I have switched between the Gravelkings and the Giant Crosscuts a couple of times so I'm getting the hang of things at this stage, one mistake I made early on was leaving the valve in when using the booster, while I did manage to get one tire seated with the valve in, I guess your meant to take the valve out to seat the tire.

Had a bit of bad luck with the Gravelkings on my first spin with them, got a 2mmx3mm V shape tear on the rear tyre on a road section, not something that I could plug, it was a decent hole so put a tube patch on the inside of tire and put in a tube to get home, I have replaced the tire at this stage. I have since survived a thumbtack removal and another small puncture on the Gravelkings with the sealant doing its job, so the tubeless thing does work , in both these cases I stopped, rolled the puncture to the ground so the sealant was behind the hole and covered the hole with my thumb until sealed, the thumbtack puncture sealed in about 15seconds.

I run the following pressures, I'm ~87kg on a good day.
'38mm Giant Crosscut 2' - 70/60psi for road only and 45/40psi for mix of road and gravel spins.

'38mm Panaracer Gravelkings' - still trying to sus these out, 45/40psi (maybe 40/40psi) for road only and 30/25psi for mix of road and gravel spins (this might be a bit low).

Both tyres were easy enough to get onto the rims (Hunt 4 Season Gravel Disc wheelset), I still need to sus out how robust the Gravelkings will be.

ericzeking

Recently set up first tubeless tyres 700x35 cross tyres, got them on and set up and have done a few spins around the block and all seems well. However, if I try to pump them up above 40psi they will leak, now I have read that they should optimally be run at 30 psi, so I'm thinking this might even be normal.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? I see a lot of higher pressures mentioned here. I'm a roadie so 30 psi is a big departure for me!

ballyharpat

Im running specialized turbo 2bliss. I got the 28cc and run them at 70 psi, really comfortable ride, I haven't had any issues with them slowing me down, rode them in Dungarvan last week for 150km. and the week before I raced them for 120km at 42 kph at the Des Hanlon.
the valve came off one before the Des, not a hope in hell could I pump it back up after it started letting out air and sealant, even the bike shop had trouble reseating it.

I have another set waiting to be put on. I have been running conti 5000 for the last 8/9 years at 100psi. And run tubular challenge limus cx tyres at about 25 psi

columbus_66

I have been using tubeless on the road since the cross season finished and I am pretty happy with the Schwalbe One Pro Evo, except they have a mind of their own and don't like going above 4 bar! They start to leak then. I have sealant in them. The Pro Evo are really too flimsy to use in the winter or to work. I've had numerous leaks which cannot be classed as punctures as they just deflate to 2bar so I can still get home. I have had to put patches on the inside of the tyres but last week they kept going down to 2bar and when I pumped it up to 5bar, I had one good leak and 2 small ones.

So I replaced it with a Schwalbe One Pro which has a bit more meat on it and all good so far. I just leave them at around 4bar or 60psi and that is good enough for the road. That is on 28c and now 25c.

harringtonp

How is the EVO different from the Pro One ?

Nothing jumping out for me on google

columbus_66

The Evo is a little bit lighter, I found it hard to get the info on it.

Leroy42

Is it possible to run tubeless at 60psi using tubes? Just wondering if it would make too much difference as the entire tubeless set up seems overly complicated and messy when the previous tube system worked pretty well.

harringtonp

Leroy42 wrote: »

Is it possible to run tubeless at 60psi using tubes? Just wondering if it would make too much difference as the entire tubeless set up seems overly complicated and messy when the previous tube system worked pretty well.

Its only complicated because its new to you. There are a lot of tricks relating to tubes which we have learned since kids and therefore take for granted.

Answer to your question is yes according to everything you read. I carry a tube with the Pro Ones but haven't had to try it out yet

columbus_66

The only issue with running at 60psi on the road is pinch puncturing. You don't get that with tubeless. Except you can get burping! if you jump over a few kerbs.

For cyclocross you can run 20-30psi but that is usually on soft ground.

I didn't think 60psi tubeless would work on the road but it does. If you get a puncture it lets air out while it is sealing but will only go down to 2 bar.

My rear tyre wore down pretty quick with 100 cuts in it so it was kinda leaky, and wouldn't take more that 4.5bar without complaining.

The problem is if the cuts are too big you need to apply a patch on the inside and they don't stick on as well as a patch on a tube.