the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CormacH94

CramCycle wrote: »

Agreed, unless your a weight weenie, there is no discernible difference. Even for most Irish racers, if you think 105 vs Ultegra is the reason you are not winning, then, sadly for you,its not actually the reason.

I understand that I'm paying for a 200g saving, but that is not the reason I'm leaning on Ultegra, it is because I cannot find 105 in stock anywhere - I can find Ultegra, if you can send me a link to a website with 105 in stock that would be great.



I've no delusions that having Ultegra over 105 is the key to winning races.

Tony04

CramCycle wrote: »

Just getting a 1X bike but the cranks are too long, If I put my 2x crankset on the frame, I resume other than the chain line not being perfect, I can just leave the chain resting on the large chainring or will it have to be one of those narrow wide ones?

What do you mean by too long, the spindle is longer than the bb?or its not your preferred crank length?

You can sort out your chain line by using the inner side of your big ring chain ring bolts ie if it was a 3x the middle ring.

Are you cxing mtbing? Then id strongly reccomend a narrow wide chainring as 1 it stops chainslap and two it stops chaindrops a must if you not running a clutch mech aswell

CramCycle

CormacH94 wrote: »

I understand that I'm paying for a 200g saving, but that is not the reason I'm leaning on Ultegra, it is because I cannot find 105 in stock anywhere - I can find Ultegra, if you can send me a link to a website with 105 in stock that would be great.
I've no delusions that having Ultegra over 105 is the key to winning races.

I hope you don't think I was having a dig, I wouldn't win a race with DI2, let alone Ultegra, but nonetheless I have it on my race bike, so I'm one to talk, 105 would do me fine.

Tony04 wrote: »

What do you mean by too long, the spindle is longer than the bb?or its not your preferred crank length?

Preferred crank length, came with the bike so have to swap out

You can sort out your chain line by using the inner side of your big ring chain ring bolts ie if it was a 3x the middle ring.

My 2x set up is r7000, so that won't work. I'll have to size it up when I get the bike to see which orientation works best, it was just handy as I ahve spare 165mm 2x cranks but I can get a Shimano 105 165mm 1X for 100euro so will get them once I get the ones they came with sold.

Are you cxing mtbing? Then id strongly recomend a narrow wide chainring as 1 it stops chainslap and two it stops chaindrops a must if you not running a clutch mech aswell

Mainly CX but nothing to crazy for a few weeks so more, rough laneways for the next few weeks. Clutch on the rear derailleur so might get away with it for awhile.

tdf7187

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

ED E

tdf7187 wrote: »

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

Bent hanger

cletus

tdf7187 wrote: »

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

Did you drop the bike or have a fall that would cause a bent derailleur hanger?

If not, I'd go back to the very start of setting your limit screws, as if you were setting up derailleur for the first time. Check cable tension too

tdf7187

Ok thanks. No I didn't drop bike or have a fall.

magicbastarder

lest it need to be said, don't use the bike till you get that fixed. you could lunch the spokes, the derailleur, the hanger, if it tangles up on you with momentum on the bike.

Tony04

CramCycle wrote: »

My 2x set up is r7000, so that won't work. I'll have to size it up when I get the bike to see which orientation works best, it was just handy as I ahve spare 165mm 2x cranks but I can get a Shimano 105 165mm 1X for 100euro so will get them once I get the ones they came with sold..

You can use your 105 165 crank 2x crank, that 1x crank your eyeing uses the exact same crank body just different chainrings.
Standard hollowtech cranks come with an assymetrical 110 bcd chainring mount with small ring being mounted on inside big ring on outside, so yeah you could probably use your small chainring with new chainring bolts.
Otherwise and more optimally get a narrow wide chainring for this standard unless its relatively cheaper to buy the whole crankset with a chainring, as chainrings are over priced however they good value used.
If the crank on your new bike is shimano you could change over chainring
Sorry for confusion i forget the small ring on road cranks wasnt seperately mounted like on mtb cranks

Eamonnator

magicbastarder wrote: »

lest it need to be said, don't use the bike till you get that fixed. you could lunch the spokes, the derailleur, the hanger, if it tangles up on you with momentum on the bike.

Worse still, you could dinner them.

tdf7187

What would a bike shop charge for rear derailleur setting? I have adjusted settings as best I can but it is still not 100%. It is now making a noise on the smallest cog on the rear wheel. Chain and derailleur are both new.

tdf7187

Eamonnator wrote: »

Worse still, you could dinner them.

Right. Well I've made a dogs dinner of it. :P

Tony04

tdf7187 wrote: »

I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs.

Far out?
Screwing the l limit screw out means the derailleur goes further outwards to the rear...

CantGetNoSleep

I'm trying to remove a SRAM XDR freehub body from a set of DT Swiss wheels (DT 240 hubs) but it doesn't seem to budge and I can't find any sort of video or instructions telling me where I should force it? Any ideas? They are expensive wheels so I'm trying to be gentle.

Second related question - I'm trying to swap this with a Shimano 11-speed freehub body and end cap that came on a set of DT Swiss P1800. Any idea if these are compatible? Axle sizes are the same at least & both disc hubs. I'd like to make the DT 240s Shimano 11-speed, and the P1800 SRAM 12-speed

CantGetNoSleep

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I'm trying to remove a SRAM XDR freehub body from a set of DT Swiss wheels (DT 240 hubs) but it doesn't seem to budge and I can't find any sort of video or instructions telling me where I should force it? Any ideas? They are expensive wheels so I'm trying to be gentle.

Second related question - I'm trying to swap this with a Shimano 11-speed freehub body and end cap that came on a set of DT Swiss P1800. Any idea if these are compatible? Axle sizes are the same at least & both disc hubs. I'd like to make the DT 240s Shimano 11-speed, and the P1800 SRAM 12-speed

I've half figured this out online but haven't managed to actually do it. You just need to get the end-cap off and the freehub body slides off, but the end cap will move at all. Only online tips are using a soft edged vice or a 12-speed cassette, neither of which I have. I've tried wrapping a radiator wrench in a towel which just ends up scratching through and I've made sh1t of the end cap. If anyone has any great ideas please shout. Could remove the non-drive side with my fingers easily, but drive side just seems stuck

padyjoe

I got a BBB ceramic 11t jockey wheels. I have a Sora system, the guide on the box says A is guide, top, B is narrow, bottom.
I read in the reviews that someone installed them the other way around as this is how Shimano do them. Any advice?

I just had a quick look comparing pictures and he is right: the 'angled' tooth at the bottom, the straight one at top, BBB says the opposite.

Nidot

Hi All,

Hoping someone can give me some help with this one.

I recently got a Giant Revolt and it's proving to be a great bike, excellent for spinning around on and getting in and out of the village to get some jobs done.

Thing is I'm thinking for longer rides I really should get a new set of tyres. I've taken it for a few medium length spins (25/30km) and I'm finding I'm using alot of effort compared to a few others.

What would people suggest in getting new tyres for it - purely for longer distance spins?

loyatemu

Nidot wrote: »

Hi All,

Hoping someone can give me some help with this one.

I recently got a Giant Revolt and it's proving to be a great bike, excellent for spinning around on and getting in and out of the village to get some jobs done.

Thing is I'm thinking for longer rides I really should get a new set of tyres. I've taken it for a few medium length spins (25/30km) and I'm finding I'm using alot of effort compared to a few others.

What would people suggest in getting new tyres for it - purely for longer distance spins?

28mm road tyres (i.e. slick, not knobbly) will be marginally faster without sacrificing too much comfort. Check the pressure on your existing tyres first though, you shouldn't be that slow on them, maybe they're a bit soft?

CramCycle

Anyone try adapters like this, bloody new bike is PF30 and I am too lazy to change out the BB unless it is really necessary. Not even sure if I can (no nothing about pf30), wish I'd just bought the 2X bike now
There is a shimano 2x crank on the lower end version of the bike so maybe the pf 30 BB just pops out and I can use a threaded BB.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/prime-bottom-bracket-adaptor-pf30-shimano-/rp-prod198686

Any issues with something like this?

Or a are there many reasonable 165mm pf30 cranks

grogi

CramCycle wrote: »

Anyone try adapters like this, bloody new bike is PF30 and I am too lazy to change out the BB unless it is really necessary. Not even sure if I can (no nothing about pf30), wish I'd just bought the 2X bike now
There is a shimano 2x crank on the lower end version of the bike so maybe the pf 30 BB just pops out and I can use a threaded BB.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/prime-bottom-bracket-adaptor-pf30-shimano-/rp-prod198686

Any issues with something like this?

Or a are there many reasonable 165mm pf30 cranks

You cannot put threaded BB when you have PF30. You can use adapter kits though, as you linked.

CramCycle

grogi wrote: »

You cannot put threaded BB when you have PF30. You can use adapter kits though, as you linked.

I suppose my query is one, are they any good, ie do they cause any issues with the Crankset or BB, or do they just work.

Plastik

Some work fine, I've had mixed success, but they're probably the cheapest solution to try first. They just pop into the PF30 cups and reduce the 30mm opening to 24mm for the Shimano spindle. You're increasing your likelihood of some creaking with them. If the cables are external FSA make a threaded sleeve that you can press into the shell to semi-permanently convert the bike to BSA standard. I did this with a CAAD10 with good success. Won't work on internal routing but I'm sure there are other options out there too for that.

tdf7187

tdf7187 wrote: »

What would a bike shop charge for rear derailleur setting? I have adjusted settings as best I can but it is still not 100%. It is now making a noise on the smallest cog on the rear wheel. Chain and derailleur are both new.

I had new derailleur and gear cable fitted about three weeks ago. (I had cycled over some plastic tarpaulin and it got caught in old derailleur and basically destroyed it). Chain was slipping so bought it back to bike shop. They adjusted, but chain still slipping. I checked chain myself and there was at least one stiff rivet, I estimated I had put 4,000 km on the chain which apparently is all you would usually get out of a chain before the rivets start getting stiff, so I bought new chain (at different bike shop) and installed myself. The fitting is still not right though. Should I go back to original bike shop and ask them to fix the set-up (for free?) They charged €74 for installation and fitting of derailleur and gear cable so I don't want to fork out more unless absolutely necessary.

cletus

tdf7187 wrote: »

I had new derailleur and gear cable fitted about three weeks ago. (I had cycled over some plastic tarpaulin and it got caught in old derailleur and basically destroyed it). Chain was slipping so bought it back to bike shop. They adjusted, but chain still slipping. I checked chain myself and there was at least one stiff rivet, I estimated I had put 4,000 km on the chain which apparently is all you would usually get out of a chain before the rivets start getting stiff, so I bought new chain (at different bike shop) and installed myself. The fitting is still not right though. Should I go back to original bike shop and ask them to fix the set-up (for free?) They charged €74 for installation and fitting of derailleur and gear cable so I don't want to fork out more unless absolutely necessary.

First, did you check the length needed for the new chain, and break it accordingly.

Second, did you re-index the rear derailleur

Third, the time to go back to shop one would have been before you bought the new chain. Why did you buy from a different shop?

tdf7187

cletus wrote: »

First, did you check the length needed for the new chain, and break it accordingly.

Second, did you re-index the rear derailleur

Third, the time to go back to shop one would have been before you bought the new chain. Why did you buy from a different shop?

Right well hindsight is 20/20, yeah? Original shop sorted the alignment at no charge.

cletus

tdf7187 wrote: »

Right well hindsight is 20/20, yeah? Original shop sorted the alignment at no charge.

I wasn't making a dig. Genuine question. I wondered if you were unhappy with the work done, perhaps.

A good result of the shop are willing to rectify issues not caused by them at no cost

cletus

tdf7187 wrote: »

Right well hindsight is 20/20, yeah? Original shop sorted the alignment at no charge.

I wasn't making a dig. Genuine question. I wondered if you were unhappy with the work done, perhaps.

A good result if the shop are willing to rectify issues not caused by them at no cost

CantGetNoSleep

I'm swapping over the components from one bike to another & want to make sure I have everything ready when the new frame arrives to do it in one go. The existing bike has a braze on front derailleur but with band on adapter, think it is 31.8mm though. The new one also takes a band on but 28.6mm. Am I better off buying a new smaller adapter, or a full band on FD?

Type 17

Most new bikes use a braze-on mount, so band-on FDs are harder to find these days, so it’s probably easier to get an adaptor for your existing FD.

CantGetNoSleep

Type 17 wrote: »

Most new bikes use a braze-on mount, so band-on FDs are harder to find these days, so it’s probably easier to get an adaptor for your existing FD.

Thanks