the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CormacH94

magicbastarder wrote: »

what's the frame? might be overspeccing the components on an average frame.
also, why not just consider going secondhand? you'd get a nice bike S/H for that price.

(and if you're doing this on the BTW scheme, just pretend otherwise!)

Bike is a 2nd hand Lapierre Audacio, 2013 I think bought for 300 last year.

MisterSpaccato

CormacH94 wrote: »

I know this question has been done to death but - new bike or upgrade components?

Looking at upgrading a Tiagra Alloy Frame to Ultegra & New Wheels. Did some number crunching and allowing 800 for mechanical Ultegra and 500 for wheels/tires that's 1300, I'd be doing the work myself so no shop costs.

Am I mad to be spending that over a whole new bike? I know I could probably get Ultegra and Carbon frame for 2k but I'm not sold on carbon as I'm a bit rough and ready with my bikes and don't have very clean/safe storage (i.e, my bikes tend to get a bit knocked around) and it would I think it would kill me to be treating a carbon bike like a piece of glass.

I've looked at the CAAD13 and Allez Sprint but I'm a bit fussy over components such as wheel and tires and don't like the idea of buying a build with no choice of wheels/tires etc.

Should I go ahead with the upgrades and maybe in a few years look at getting a carbon frame and moving parts over?

I rode ultegra and 105 and found absolutely zero difference in "feel", both shift like clockwork. Are you sure you want to pay a 300 EUR premium for a couple of hundred of grams in weight reduction? I would highly recommend 105 between the two.


Anyway if you have Tiagra 4700 series keep it, it's as good as the 105 5800 series, just with one less gear in the back. Not worth the upgrade. If you have an older tiagra version then by all means upgrade to 105 R7000, it's the best groupset ever imho.



As for wheels get something with sealed bearings and good quality serviceable hubs. I have bad experiences with cup and cone hubs, probably because i never tried the high end campagnolo/shimano stuff.


Also, no offense intended, but if you're heavier than 80kg, consider wheels with higher spoke count, like 24 front 28 rear or more. Hunt 4 seasons and Superdura would be good, but i never owned Hunt wheels, so can't vouch for them.



My favorite value wheels are Miche Reflex, they are solid, cheap and good value.

CormacH94

MisterSpaccato wrote: »

I rode ultegra and 105 and found absolutely zero difference in "feel", both shift like clockwork. Are you sure you want to pay a 300 EUR premium for a couple of hundred of grams in weight reduction? I would highly recommend 105 between the two.


Anyway if you have Tiagra 4700 series keep it, it's as good as the 105 5800 series, just with one less gear in the back. Not worth the upgrade. If you have an older tiagra version then by all means upgrade to 105 R7000, it's the best groupset ever imho.



As for wheels get something with sealed bearings and good quality serviceable hubs. I have bad experiences with cup and cone hubs, probably because i never tried the high end campagnolo/shimano stuff.


Also, no offense intended, but if you're heavier than 80kg, consider wheels with higher spoke count, like 24 front 28 rear or more. Hunt 4 seasons and Superdura would be good, but i never owned Hunt wheels, so can't vouch for them.



My favorite value wheels are Miche Reflex, they are solid, cheap and good value.

Going for Ultegra as it seems to be in stock in most places, whereas 105 is not available - don't really mind spending the extra money - the winter bike has 105 so it makes sense to me that the good/race bike is better spec'd.


Have Fulcrum Racing 5's on the winter bike and love them - will probably go for Fulcrum again. Easy to service wheels.


I'm between 60 - 65kg so no problems with spoke counts. I don't think there's a lot of weight to be saved with a different alloy frame - the lapierre is 9kg, think the lightest alloy frame I've seen is 8.6kg? (Allez Sprint)



Other thing I should have mentioned is I've a bike fit booked for next month so I'm thinking would it be another waste to be set-up on the Lapierre w/Tiagra only to be buying a different frame that I haven't been set-up on?

MisterSpaccato

CormacH94 wrote: »

Going for Ultegra as it seems to be in stock in most places, whereas 105 is not available - don't really mind spending the extra money - the winter bike has 105 so it makes sense to me that the good/race bike is better spec'd.


Have Fulcrum Racing 5's on the winter bike and love them - will probably go for Fulcrum again. Easy to service wheels.


I'm between 60 - 65kg so no problems with spoke counts. I don't think there's a lot of weight to be saved with a different alloy frame - the lapierre is 9kg, think the lightest alloy frame I've seen is 8.6kg? (Allez Sprint)



Other thing I should have mentioned is I've a bike fit booked for next month so I'm thinking would it be another waste to be set-up on the Lapierre w/Tiagra only to be buying a different frame that I haven't been set-up on?

Fulcrum is owned by Campagnolo and they share a lot of technologies, so i'm pretty sure quality is top notch. If you're happy with cup and cone bearings, they are a good choice. Also you're light so no problem with spoke count on wheels.


You're right about the low stock of 105 part, so if you're in a hurry and don't mind to pay more, get what's available. Just be warned that 105 and Ultegra might feel exactly the same


Do you plan to race on this bike? Otherwise the weight discussion is irrelevant. Anyway the frame is the last place you want to look at to reduce weight, just for the fact that you have to move all the parts from one frame to the other . The cheapest weight reduction can be had with tubes. Continental Supersonic tubes weigh about 55g, compared to 100g for regular tubes, so using them will save you 100g for about 25 EUR.



At a higher premium, decent weight savings can be had by replacing handlebar, stem, seatpost, and saddle, with carbon fiber components. Not sure you might want to pursue this way since you're skeptical about getting a CF frame.

a148pro

CramCycle wrote: »

What is the frame material? If its steel, a light buff and some nail polish of the right colour. Aluminium, straight on with the nail polish (or simply leave it if you don't mind the aesthetics.

Aluminium. Don't really mind the aesthetics but its annoying when you've kept the bike well. Just worried it would lead to corrosion or flaking off of the paint on the frame but it prob wont. Not sure my missus has nail polish, will see.

CramCycle

MisterSpaccato wrote: »

I rode ultegra and 105 and found absolutely zero difference in "feel", both shift like clockwork. Are you sure you want to pay a 300 EUR premium for a couple of hundred of grams in weight reduction? I would highly recommend 105 between the two.

Agreed, unless your a weight weenie, there is no discernible difference. Even for most Irish racers, if you think 105 vs Ultegra is the reason you are not winning, then, sadly for you,its not actually the reason.

a148pro wrote: »

Aluminium. Don't really mind the aesthetics but its annoying when you've kept the bike well. Just worried it would lead to corrosion or flaking off of the paint on the frame but it prob wont. Not sure my missus has nail polish, will see.

Aluminium oxidises to a stronger form so you won't damage the frame, but a quick pop into any cheap make up place for teenagers like Clairs and you will pick up a colour close enough without much hassle. You could, if really pushed, pop into Halfords and get a tester of a similar coloured paint either.

CramCycle

Just getting a 1X bike but the cranks are too long, If I put my 2x crankset on the frame, I resume other than the chain line not being perfect, I can just leave the chain resting on the large chainring or will it have to be one of those narrow wide ones?

CormacH94

CramCycle wrote: »

Agreed, unless your a weight weenie, there is no discernible difference. Even for most Irish racers, if you think 105 vs Ultegra is the reason you are not winning, then, sadly for you,its not actually the reason.

I understand that I'm paying for a 200g saving, but that is not the reason I'm leaning on Ultegra, it is because I cannot find 105 in stock anywhere - I can find Ultegra, if you can send me a link to a website with 105 in stock that would be great.



I've no delusions that having Ultegra over 105 is the key to winning races.

Tony04

CramCycle wrote: »

Just getting a 1X bike but the cranks are too long, If I put my 2x crankset on the frame, I resume other than the chain line not being perfect, I can just leave the chain resting on the large chainring or will it have to be one of those narrow wide ones?

What do you mean by too long, the spindle is longer than the bb?or its not your preferred crank length?

You can sort out your chain line by using the inner side of your big ring chain ring bolts ie if it was a 3x the middle ring.

Are you cxing mtbing? Then id strongly reccomend a narrow wide chainring as 1 it stops chainslap and two it stops chaindrops a must if you not running a clutch mech aswell

CramCycle

CormacH94 wrote: »

I understand that I'm paying for a 200g saving, but that is not the reason I'm leaning on Ultegra, it is because I cannot find 105 in stock anywhere - I can find Ultegra, if you can send me a link to a website with 105 in stock that would be great.
I've no delusions that having Ultegra over 105 is the key to winning races.

I hope you don't think I was having a dig, I wouldn't win a race with DI2, let alone Ultegra, but nonetheless I have it on my race bike, so I'm one to talk, 105 would do me fine.

Tony04 wrote: »

What do you mean by too long, the spindle is longer than the bb?or its not your preferred crank length?

Preferred crank length, came with the bike so have to swap out

You can sort out your chain line by using the inner side of your big ring chain ring bolts ie if it was a 3x the middle ring.

My 2x set up is r7000, so that won't work. I'll have to size it up when I get the bike to see which orientation works best, it was just handy as I ahve spare 165mm 2x cranks but I can get a Shimano 105 165mm 1X for 100euro so will get them once I get the ones they came with sold.

Are you cxing mtbing? Then id strongly recomend a narrow wide chainring as 1 it stops chainslap and two it stops chaindrops a must if you not running a clutch mech aswell

Mainly CX but nothing to crazy for a few weeks so more, rough laneways for the next few weeks. Clutch on the rear derailleur so might get away with it for awhile.

tdf7187

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

ED E

tdf7187 wrote: »

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

Bent hanger

cletus

tdf7187 wrote: »

My chain is colliding with the spokes if I shift beyond the lowest gear. I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs. I am afraid to move the screw further in case it falls off. I hope I have not damaged the derailleur.

Did you drop the bike or have a fall that would cause a bent derailleur hanger?

If not, I'd go back to the very start of setting your limit screws, as if you were setting up derailleur for the first time. Check cable tension too

tdf7187

Ok thanks. No I didn't drop bike or have a fall.

magicbastarder

lest it need to be said, don't use the bike till you get that fixed. you could lunch the spokes, the derailleur, the hanger, if it tangles up on you with momentum on the bike.

Tony04

CramCycle wrote: »

My 2x set up is r7000, so that won't work. I'll have to size it up when I get the bike to see which orientation works best, it was just handy as I ahve spare 165mm 2x cranks but I can get a Shimano 105 165mm 1X for 100euro so will get them once I get the ones they came with sold..

You can use your 105 165 crank 2x crank, that 1x crank your eyeing uses the exact same crank body just different chainrings.
Standard hollowtech cranks come with an assymetrical 110 bcd chainring mount with small ring being mounted on inside big ring on outside, so yeah you could probably use your small chainring with new chainring bolts.
Otherwise and more optimally get a narrow wide chainring for this standard unless its relatively cheaper to buy the whole crankset with a chainring, as chainrings are over priced however they good value used.
If the crank on your new bike is shimano you could change over chainring
Sorry for confusion i forget the small ring on road cranks wasnt seperately mounted like on mtb cranks

Eamonnator

magicbastarder wrote: »

lest it need to be said, don't use the bike till you get that fixed. you could lunch the spokes, the derailleur, the hanger, if it tangles up on you with momentum on the bike.

Worse still, you could dinner them.

tdf7187

What would a bike shop charge for rear derailleur setting? I have adjusted settings as best I can but it is still not 100%. It is now making a noise on the smallest cog on the rear wheel. Chain and derailleur are both new.

tdf7187

Eamonnator wrote: »

Worse still, you could dinner them.

Right. Well I've made a dogs dinner of it. :P

Tony04

tdf7187 wrote: »

I have tried moving the L screw very far out but the problem still occurs.

Far out?
Screwing the l limit screw out means the derailleur goes further outwards to the rear...

CantGetNoSleep

I'm trying to remove a SRAM XDR freehub body from a set of DT Swiss wheels (DT 240 hubs) but it doesn't seem to budge and I can't find any sort of video or instructions telling me where I should force it? Any ideas? They are expensive wheels so I'm trying to be gentle.

Second related question - I'm trying to swap this with a Shimano 11-speed freehub body and end cap that came on a set of DT Swiss P1800. Any idea if these are compatible? Axle sizes are the same at least & both disc hubs. I'd like to make the DT 240s Shimano 11-speed, and the P1800 SRAM 12-speed

CantGetNoSleep

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I'm trying to remove a SRAM XDR freehub body from a set of DT Swiss wheels (DT 240 hubs) but it doesn't seem to budge and I can't find any sort of video or instructions telling me where I should force it? Any ideas? They are expensive wheels so I'm trying to be gentle.

Second related question - I'm trying to swap this with a Shimano 11-speed freehub body and end cap that came on a set of DT Swiss P1800. Any idea if these are compatible? Axle sizes are the same at least & both disc hubs. I'd like to make the DT 240s Shimano 11-speed, and the P1800 SRAM 12-speed

I've half figured this out online but haven't managed to actually do it. You just need to get the end-cap off and the freehub body slides off, but the end cap will move at all. Only online tips are using a soft edged vice or a 12-speed cassette, neither of which I have. I've tried wrapping a radiator wrench in a towel which just ends up scratching through and I've made sh1t of the end cap. If anyone has any great ideas please shout. Could remove the non-drive side with my fingers easily, but drive side just seems stuck

padyjoe

I got a BBB ceramic 11t jockey wheels. I have a Sora system, the guide on the box says A is guide, top, B is narrow, bottom.
I read in the reviews that someone installed them the other way around as this is how Shimano do them. Any advice?

I just had a quick look comparing pictures and he is right: the 'angled' tooth at the bottom, the straight one at top, BBB says the opposite.

Nidot

Hi All,

Hoping someone can give me some help with this one.

I recently got a Giant Revolt and it's proving to be a great bike, excellent for spinning around on and getting in and out of the village to get some jobs done.

Thing is I'm thinking for longer rides I really should get a new set of tyres. I've taken it for a few medium length spins (25/30km) and I'm finding I'm using alot of effort compared to a few others.

What would people suggest in getting new tyres for it - purely for longer distance spins?

loyatemu

Nidot wrote: »

Hi All,

Hoping someone can give me some help with this one.

I recently got a Giant Revolt and it's proving to be a great bike, excellent for spinning around on and getting in and out of the village to get some jobs done.

Thing is I'm thinking for longer rides I really should get a new set of tyres. I've taken it for a few medium length spins (25/30km) and I'm finding I'm using alot of effort compared to a few others.

What would people suggest in getting new tyres for it - purely for longer distance spins?

28mm road tyres (i.e. slick, not knobbly) will be marginally faster without sacrificing too much comfort. Check the pressure on your existing tyres first though, you shouldn't be that slow on them, maybe they're a bit soft?

CramCycle

Anyone try adapters like this, bloody new bike is PF30 and I am too lazy to change out the BB unless it is really necessary. Not even sure if I can (no nothing about pf30), wish I'd just bought the 2X bike now
There is a shimano 2x crank on the lower end version of the bike so maybe the pf 30 BB just pops out and I can use a threaded BB.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/prime-bottom-bracket-adaptor-pf30-shimano-/rp-prod198686

Any issues with something like this?

Or a are there many reasonable 165mm pf30 cranks

grogi

CramCycle wrote: »

Anyone try adapters like this, bloody new bike is PF30 and I am too lazy to change out the BB unless it is really necessary. Not even sure if I can (no nothing about pf30), wish I'd just bought the 2X bike now
There is a shimano 2x crank on the lower end version of the bike so maybe the pf 30 BB just pops out and I can use a threaded BB.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/prime-bottom-bracket-adaptor-pf30-shimano-/rp-prod198686

Any issues with something like this?

Or a are there many reasonable 165mm pf30 cranks

You cannot put threaded BB when you have PF30. You can use adapter kits though, as you linked.

CramCycle

grogi wrote: »

You cannot put threaded BB when you have PF30. You can use adapter kits though, as you linked.

I suppose my query is one, are they any good, ie do they cause any issues with the Crankset or BB, or do they just work.

Plastik

Some work fine, I've had mixed success, but they're probably the cheapest solution to try first. They just pop into the PF30 cups and reduce the 30mm opening to 24mm for the Shimano spindle. You're increasing your likelihood of some creaking with them. If the cables are external FSA make a threaded sleeve that you can press into the shell to semi-permanently convert the bike to BSA standard. I did this with a CAAD10 with good success. Won't work on internal routing but I'm sure there are other options out there too for that.

tdf7187

tdf7187 wrote: »

What would a bike shop charge for rear derailleur setting? I have adjusted settings as best I can but it is still not 100%. It is now making a noise on the smallest cog on the rear wheel. Chain and derailleur are both new.

I had new derailleur and gear cable fitted about three weeks ago. (I had cycled over some plastic tarpaulin and it got caught in old derailleur and basically destroyed it). Chain was slipping so bought it back to bike shop. They adjusted, but chain still slipping. I checked chain myself and there was at least one stiff rivet, I estimated I had put 4,000 km on the chain which apparently is all you would usually get out of a chain before the rivets start getting stiff, so I bought new chain (at different bike shop) and installed myself. The fitting is still not right though. Should I go back to original bike shop and ask them to fix the set-up (for free?) They charged €74 for installation and fitting of derailleur and gear cable so I don't want to fork out more unless absolutely necessary.