the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

ec18

whats the best Way to clean a horrifically dirty chain.....the usual spray that I use is being no help

magicbastarder

ford2600 wrote: »

Frame upsidedown and pour in penetrating oil or maybe caustic (if feeling brave) from bb.

Leave overnight.

Using stilson or similar get some leverage and see does it work


Anything to add here!!!

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2057516487/16/#post104511544

that links to the audax thread?

magicbastarder

ec18 wrote: »

whats the best Way to clean a horrifically dirty chain.....the usual spray that I use is being no help

take chain off and soak it in petrol or white spirits. will completely strip out any lubrication too, obviously.

OleRodrigo

magicbastarder wrote: »

that links to the audax thread?

MBs no such thing as a stupid question indeed

gaffmaster

I'm in the process of changing the cables on my Planet X RT-58 Carbon, with internal routing. I've hit a snag with the Front Derailleur cable.

It passes through a guide under the bottom bracket, then into some (what looks like) cable liner (I used something similar guide the brake cable through the frame, which worked well).
Here's a pic of under the BB where I've unscrewed the guide, and slackened the cable. You can see the black liner which protects the cable from the elements underneath the BB:



My trouble is: The cable wont pass through the hole at the bottom of the frame (where it exits the frame and goes up into the front DR) without significant force. I'm afraid if I pull it back through the frame, I won't be able to push the new cable back through the hole. There's A LOT of friction there. I tried passing cable inner liner down through this tiny hole but it wont fit, so I can't use that method:


Anyone have any tips or advice for this?

The other strange element to this problem, is the black cable liner under the frame seems rooted in the frame at the back end. I wonder how far it goes, and whether it is supposed to exit the frame a little where the cable comes out to feed the Front Derailleur.

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks for any help.

Type 17

Have you removed the old cable wire? It's the wire that's rusted and expanded by the water spray from the rear wheel (terrible frame design).

If you get the old cable out and clean out the hole with spray-lube, the new (non rusty, therefore non-expanded) wire will slide in fine (coat it with grease to delay (but not prevent) a re-occurrence).

The black cable liner helps a little at the start (dry cable), but once things get wet, it actually acts to hold moisture against the steel, promoting corrosion.

gaffmaster

Type 17 wrote: »

Have you removed the old cable wire? It's the wire that's rusted and expanded by the water spray from the rear wheel (terrible frame design).

If you get the old cable out and clean out the hole with spray-lube, the new (non rusty, therefore non-expanded) wire will slide in fine (coat it with grease to delay (but not prevent) a re-occurrence).

The black cable liner helps a little at the start (dry cable), but once things get wet, it actually acts to hold moisture against the steel, promoting corrosion.

I haven't tried removing it yet as I'm afraid I won't get the new cable back through the corroded hole. That's sound advice about spray lube, thanks. I reckon there's a lot of road gunk in the hole itself. When fiddling with it, the black cable liner felt secured into the back end. Any chance it runs all the way up to the hole? Indeed bad frame design. PX only did one run of these RT-58 Carbons afaik. Probably for reasons like this one.

Type 17

gaffmaster wrote: »

I haven't tried removing it yet as I'm afraid I won't get the new cable back through the corroded hole...

I've done a few of these, on different manufacturers' frames and, so far, the hole has been fine once you get the cable out of it - the hole (or rather its aluminium tubing) don't seem to be affected as much as the cable itself.

PS: When trying to remove the cable, don't just pull hard at one end or the other - spray lube in at both ends (turn the frame over for each end) and then begin to work the cable up and down repeatedly, starting off with (probably) only a few mm of movement - keep repeating this action, aiming to increase the movement-distance that you gain. When you have broken down the corrosion in this way, you should be able to cut one end of the cable off, and pull out the other end.

cdaly_

Type 17 wrote: »

Have you removed the old cable wire? It's the wire that's rusted and expanded by the water spray from the rear wheel (terrible frame design).

If you get the old cable out and clean out the hole with spray-lube, the new (non rusty, therefore non-expanded) wire will slide in fine (coat it with grease to delay (but not prevent) a re-occurrence).

The black cable liner helps a little at the start (dry cable), but once things get wet, it actually acts to hold moisture against the steel, promoting corrosion.

I presume you should use stainless steel wires in these applications?

seamus

Pull the old cable out, then get a pile of pipe cleaners (they do have a use beyond arts and crafts!) and WD40 to polish up the existing hole. Then as said, lather the new cable in grease before pushing it through.

Type 17

cdaly_ wrote: »

I presume you should use stainless steel wires in these applications?

Yes, if you've had issues with corrosion, it's better to use stainless steel cables. However, note that they tend to have a shorter life expectancy than plain steel ones in road bike drop bar shifters - the strands fatigue and break earlier on the tight turns inside the shifters, about 20mm from the nipple.

cdaly_

Interesting. Not an issue for me with bar-end shifters...

Fratton Fred

I currently have a bike with a mix of Sora, FSA and unbranded components and i want to up grade over time to Shimano 105. There seems to be regular odd components kicking around done deal and adverts, so i thought I could do this a bit at a time.

My first upgrade will be brakes, because the unbranded ones it came with are pants. So I want to put 105 calipers on, but not change the Sora levers. Is this doable? I've looked online and seen mixed reports. I can't see how it matters what levers you use to be honest, unless i am missing something. (or even, can I stick SRAM brakes on with the Sora levers?)

Next will be wheels, I fancy a pair of Fulcrum 5 clinchers, but they only fit a 10/11 speed cassette, whereas the Sora is 9 speed. So do i need to upgrade the chainset at the same time, or can I somehow fit the 9 speed cassette on the Fulcrums?

cython

Fratton Fred wrote: »

I currently have a bike with a mix of Sora, FSA and unbranded components and i want to up grade over time to Shimano 105. There seems to be regular odd components kicking around done deal and adverts, so i thought I could do this a bit at a time.

My first upgrade will be brakes, because the unbranded ones it came with are pants. So I want to put 105 calipers on, but not change the Sora levers. Is this doable? I've looked online and seen mixed reports. I can't see how it matters what levers you use to be honest, unless i am missing something. (or even, can I stick SRAM brakes on with the Sora levers?)

I think in recent generations there have been changes in the pull ratio for Shimano brakes, so there are essentially optimal combinations, acceptable combinations, and (allegedly) "don't even try it" combinations of callipers and levers. As for SRAM compatibility, I honestly have no idea.

Fratton Fred wrote: »

Next will be wheels, I fancy a pair of Fulcrum 5 clinchers, but they only fit a 10/11 speed cassette, whereas the Sora is 9 speed. So do i need to upgrade the chainset at the same time, or can I somehow fit the 9 speed cassette on the Fulcrums?

Any 10/11 speed wheelset can be made to fit 9 speed with appropriate spacers. Chainset/cassette are dictated by the shifters and mechs you have fitted, nothing really to do with the wheels (once the cassette is the right fitment for the freehub).

Fratton Fred

Would a "try it and see" approach work with the brakes?

I mean, they'll either work or they won't, won't they? Or is there more to it?

Weepsie

Thinking of once and for all cleaning and regreasing a bottom bracket for myself. Not sure where to start beyond the usual videos, but what should I use for he actual cleaning and greasing?

07Lapierre

Weepsie wrote: »

Thinking of once and for all cleaning and regreasing a bottom bracket for myself. Not sure where to start beyond the usual videos, but what should I use for he actual cleaning and greasing?

A clean cloth and Grease. I use multi purpose grease, which is available from Halfords.

But how you do this depends on the type of BB you have. Example, if you have an Octalink BB, your wasting your time as its a sealed unit.

This is an Octalink BB : http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-105-5500-octalink-bottom-bracket/rp-prod906

Weepsie

It is some type of Hollowtech II BB, but not Shimano. It has just developed one of those annoying creaks of late, and it's overdue a servicing

07Lapierre

You sure it's the BB causing the creaking noise?

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/post/95230558

Weepsie

07Lapierre wrote: »

You sure it's the BB causing the creaking noise?

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/post/95230558

I am not. I'll give it a good looking over at the weekend anyway before doing something silly

cython

Fratton Fred wrote: »

Would a "try it and see" approach work with the brakes?

I mean, they'll either work or they won't, won't they? Or is there more to it?

Pretty much all combinations will work in the sense that they will bring the pads against the rim, but modulation, control and even braking force may be compromised with the wrong combination.

07Lapierre

Weepsie wrote: »

I am not. I'll give it a good looking over at the weekend anyway before doing something silly

I doubt the creaking noise is from your hollotech BB. But it's easy to check. Use a 5mm Allen key to remove the left crank. Use a mallet to tap the right crank out.

The only maintenance needed is to check that the BB cups are tight. To do that you need the correct tool.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/cyclo-hollowtech-ii-bottom-bracket-tool/rp-prod42809

NyOmnishambles

On the way home this evening my bike stopped shifting from the small front cog to the big front cog

Shimano Claris gears

Any ideas why, the gear indicator on the hood moves when the levers are pushed but no movement on the cogs
The bike is only a few years old and had very little mileage on it until I started using it recently to commute in and out of work, only around 11K each way

cython

NyOmnishambles wrote: »

On the way home this evening my bike stopped shifting from the small front cog to the big front cog

Shimano Claris gears

Any ideas why, the gear indicator on the hood moves when the levers are pushed but no movement on the cogs
The bike is only a few years old and had very little mileage on it until I started using it recently to commute in and out of work, only around 11K each way

When you should be in the small chainring are you able to push the front mech inward towards the frame? The obvious candidate in this situation is either a sticking cable (unlikely due to the tension normally involved) or a stuck/broken front mech. If you can easily push the front mech in it suggests the spring in it is gone, and if you can push it in but it takes force the front mech may be dirty/gunked up. They'd be the first ports of call for me.

gaffmaster

cython wrote: »

When you should be in the small chainring are you able to push the front mech inward towards the frame? The obvious candidate in this situation is either a sticking cable (unlikely due to the tension normally involved) or a stuck/broken front mech. If you can easily push the front mech in it suggests the spring in it is gone, and if you can push it in but it takes force the front mech may be dirty/gunked up. They'd be the first ports of call for me.

It might also be a simple cable tension issue. If your cables are still relatively new (in terms of mileage anyway), they might still be stretching a bit. There should be a barrel adjuster poking out of the shifter handle. Try turning that anti-clockwise a quarter turn at a time, then check the shifting to see if the derailleur has adequate cable tension to shift up.

cython

gaffmaster wrote: »

It might also be a simple cable tension issue. If your cables are still relatively new (in terms of mileage anyway), they might still be stretching a bit. There should be a barrel adjuster poking out of the shifter handle. Try turning that anti-clockwise a quarter turn at a time, then check the shifting to see if the derailleur has adequate cable tension to shift up.

Ah, my complete apologies, must remember not to offer mechanical advice with beers on board, as I misread it that it wasn't dropping back into the small ring!

As the above poster says, almost certainly a cable tension issue. If you have a workstand, or can even get the bike in a position where the rear wheel is elevated, then you can add tension to the cable to verify (assuming it's not internal routing) by just pulling the cable away from the downtube - if it shifts up then (even just while the cable is pulled), then you need to either use the barrel adjuster to take up slack, or potentially reclamp the cable in the mech if there is no barrel adjuster.

NyOmnishambles

cython wrote: »

When you should be in the small chainring are you able to push the front mech inward towards the frame? The obvious candidate in this situation is either a sticking cable (unlikely due to the tension normally involved) or a stuck/broken front mech. If you can easily push the front mech in it suggests the spring in it is gone, and if you can push it in but it takes force the front mech may be dirty/gunked up. They'd be the first ports of call for me.

gaffmaster wrote: »

It might also be a simple cable tension issue. If your cables are still relatively new (in terms of mileage anyway), they might still be stretching a bit. There should be a barrel adjuster poking out of the shifter handle. Try turning that anti-clockwise a quarter turn at a time, then check the shifting to see if the derailleur has adequate cable tension to shift up.

Thanks
I will have a look at it over the weekend
It might be a spring as mentioned above as the shifter is now moving without resistance

But will try the easier fixes first and hope for the best

cython

NyOmnishambles wrote: »

Thanks
I will have a look at it over the weekend
It might be a spring as mentioned above as the shifter is now moving without resistance

But will try the easier fixes first and hope for the best

No, the spring I mentioned is exclusively for returning the mech and chain to the inner/small chainring, and even if it were broken would not stop you shifting into the big ring, just back down into the small one.

NyOmnishambles

The gear cable had come loose from the derailer

All fixed now

Thanks for the suggestions

magicbastarder

given the day that's in it (i.e. when it starts lashing just as you leave work and stops just as you get home) - disc brakes squealing in the wet. causes? solutions?
it's mainly the front brake. for all the talk of disc brakes working equally well in wet and dry, there's a noticeable falloff in braking performance for me in the wet.