What are you working on currently?

galwaydude18

dathi wrote: »

i cut them about 3mm thick. i have a startrite 352 bandsaw and made a tall plywood fence. rough sanded them with orbital sander to remove the saw marks before i used them

Nice one :-)

..Brian..

That's very fine work Dathi!

patchyamac

Not an impressive build,but I'm currently working on a DIY Jigsaw table/poor man's bandsaw.I bought some 100 mm blades,drilled some holes in the bed,mounted it to a scrap piece of plywood.Because of the length of the jigsaw blades,I need added support,so I've stripped an old scooter belonging to my son for the wheel bearing,which I'll install near the top of the blade to prevent wandering.I will upload some images documenting the process when my post count allows.

Poloman

I have just made my first ever wood project. Its a simple modern bench made from 2x4's. I am waiting for the second coat of stain to dry before attaching furniture glides. I will post some pics by the end of the week.

magicbastarder

tried the 'rusty vinegar' trick for staining oak - happy enough with first results, matching set of bowls. little bit of checking in the smaller one.

Sparks

They came out nice MB.

Sparks

Faux-17th century joined chest in oak. Drawbored mortice-and-tenon joinery bar the floorboards which were tongue-and-grooved and nailed on. Some simple decorative carving elements on the rails. Did use power tools right at the start for rough cuts, and the ubiquitous powerdrill, but mostly this is hand tool work.







It even meets the spec: baby blankets fit in it.
See, the name is kindof a pun, it's a baby blanket chest



Build log:
http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/category/woodworking/baby-blanket-chest/?order=asc

sheriff_os

magicbastarder wrote: »

tried the 'rusty vinegar' trick for staining oak - happy enough with first results, matching set of bowls. little bit of checking in the smaller one.

Nice bowls - whats the "rusty vinegar" trick?

Sparks

It's a method for ebonising oak. You take two jars, and put steel wool in one and half-fill the jar with vinegar and punch a hole in the lid. Set aside for a week, shake occasionally (with your thumb over the hole, but you'll learn that fast if you forget).

The second jar, you take a handful of oak shavings off the floor, put in a saucepan with enough water to fill the jar, and bring to the boil; reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes; then turn off the heat, allow to cool and pour the mix into the second jar (shavings and all). Leave that sit with the first jar.

When the wool in the first jar has all dissolved (takes about a week), you can use them.

First you paint the oak with the contents of the second jar (the oak shavings tea). Leave it dry, and sand back the raised grain afterwards. Then repeat. Then paint the oak with the tea again, leave dry until the surface is damp but not wet, and then paint the surface with the contents of the first jar (the rusty vinegar). Leave for 2-3 minutes, then paint with more tea, leave for a minute and paint with more vinegar, another minute and then more tea and then leave to dry fully.

After it's fully dried, buff with a dry cloth or paper, then paint the surface with clean water to flush the rest of the dust off, buff dry with a clean cloth or clean paper, and then apply a top coat to seal (I use Osmo wood wax but almost anything will do).

magicbastarder

i should point out that the above was achieved with just the rusty vinegar. the tea trick is for woods low in tannins (AFAIK any breakfast tea will work, not just oak tea), but if you're painting it onto oak, you don't need the tea.

Sparks

True - but it does help you get that "priests socks" colour in oak

peter bermingham

Sparks wrote: »

True - but it does help you get that "priests socks" colour in oak

Because you don't want to end up with a very very very very dark blue

chillyspoon

A little table I'm doing for an outdoor but covered area, a few dowels to go and then apply the finish

chillyspoon

Another outdoor one just finished (well - a couple more coats of oil to go). It's a small bench about 1.2m long.

Sparks

Dug the shed out from under the snow. Twice.



Made a straight-line cutter for stringing from some oak scraps and an off-the-shelf blade:



Take one was ugly and the mortice wasn't straight however, so the cutter canted at an angle to the edge and so the groove... was more a ragged trench. The beam was salvageable though, so I just recut the fence with the aid of a 1-2-3 block to try to keep the edges square.





It doesn't work too badly; the groove is the right width according to the feeler gauge and it looks identical to the groove cut by the lie-nielsen radius cutter.



But I still haven't sorted out sourcing veneer (I know, I know, I'm a slacker). And the veneer I do have doesn't seem to even be 0.6mm thick and even doubling up on it looks ugly up close.



Anyone know of a good source of constructional veneer (say 1.5mm thick) in horse chestnut or sycamore or holly or boxwood or other whiteish wood for stringing in either Ireland or the UK?

Double Barrel

Sparks,

https://www.strahan.ie/woodinlay.html

http://www.mcevoyveneersireland.ie

http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk

http://www.marquetry.org/suppliers.htm

http://www.constantines.com/constantineshistory.aspx

Good luck

The Master

Ukulele I'm currently building with some lovely flamed maple on the soundboard

Double Barrel

Vivid.:):cool:
Aniline dye ??

raspberrypi67

Something I made recently....

What yis think?
DSC_0086.JPG

Sparks

Nice What wood is that in the fretboard and headstock?

raspberrypi67

Its Maple on the neck. Iroko on the body. ( Teak equivalent ). Its quite heavy and dense as woods go.
Wilkinson Pickups.

Lads brought it over to Waltons music store to get new strings and were playing away, folks in there quite impressed with it...Had a good laugh with them, nice folk in the store...

Sparks wrote: »

Nice What wood is that in the fretboard and headstock?

Bonzo Delaney

raspberrypi67 wrote: »

Its Maple on the neck. Iroko on the body. ( Teak equivalent ). Its quite heavy and dense as woods go.
Wilkinson Pickups.

Lads brought it over to Waltons music store to get new strings and were playing away, folks in there quite impressed with it...Had a good laugh with them, nice folk in the store...

Did you make the neck yourself ?

Sparks

Some more stringing (horse chestnut in walnut):

















Still a work in progress, but not doing too badly so far...

raspberrypi67

Nope....bought that in a place in the UK that are licenced to build Fender parts..

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Did you make the neck yourself ?

raspberrypi67

Currently building a telecaster for my son.....Walnut body...will post pictures soon....

Sparks

Walnut desk stand with maple stringing in a kind-of-sort-of-line-and-berry-if-you-squint style (and poplar feet with walnut stringing). Osmo oil finish (which proved not perfect and is now getting a coat of shellac over it).

raspberrypi67

Just finished cutting out the head for a Telecaster guitar, pictures to follow...

MattH4M

There are some absolutely wonderful projects on this thread. It's very inspiring to see such craftsmanship and dedication to the craft. I'm relatively new to woodworking and I've just finished a Wall Clock for an introduction to woodworking evening class I'm doing.
It's the Paul Sellers YouTube project made from Parana Pine finished with boiled linseed oil. I'll try and post a picture of it soon.

raspberrypi67

Thought I'd post this.

Its a telecaster I'm building for my son. I've customised it a bit. I've routed the groves or slots in the back instead of the front as I dont want to inclde the pickboard. Its a Walnut body. The neck is maple and rosewood.
Hope you like

DSC_0118.JPG

Sparks

Fathers day gift. Traditional Japanese toolbox design in Beech, with walnut pegs and key, and a rippled sycamore lid. Danish oil and turpentine finish, with beeswax paste top coat.
http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2018/06/17/balls/







I'm still at the "I can see all 74 errors" phase, but I do so love that locking peg design for the lid so I'm coping