What are you working on currently?

magicbastarder

nice! you have a link to the video which inspired it?

Gryzor

https://youtu.be/4W-9_P_ZRck

delaney001

That is absolutely top grade work. Do you work machine or more hand tools style? A++

Gryzor

delaney001 wrote: »

That is absolutely top grade work. Do you work machine or more hand tools style? A++

Thanks! Bit of both tbh, depends on what I'm doing. In this case all the milling done by machine and joinery by hand...

delaney001

Gryzor wrote: »

Thanks! Bit of both tbh, depends on what I'm doing. In this case all the milling done by machine and joinery by hand...

Lovely stuff. I went mad into hand tools about a year ago, it's very slow but so enjoyable when it works. Kinda faded away from them again now though. Hopefully start something again next year.

peter bermingham

That's a nice bit of work i like them protruding dovetails something different i know you said you are all boxed out you could have a go at this https://youtu.be/9vqeBoe3y1Y sorry you have to copy and paste the youtube link

magicbastarder

rough turning some cedar. not my first choice in wood for turning, but i promised my father in law (well, i was told to) i'd try to make something from the atlantic cedar storm doris toppled in his garden.
had to remember that baby oil is a little easier on the skin than acetone, for getting the sap off your hands.

Bonzo Delaney

magicbastarder wrote: »

rough turning some cedar. not my first choice in wood for turning, but i promised my father in law (well, i was told to) i'd try to make something from the atlantic cedar storm doris toppled in his garden.
had to remember that baby oil is a little easier on the skin than acetone, for getting the sap off your hands.

Not fine joinery related but does baby oil work ? Sap's a bugger when it gets on your hands find it worse with rough first fix timber and the odd bit of pao 2nd fix .
Used to find a particular brand of wipes decent for it

Zebbedee

magicbastarder wrote: »

rough turning some cedar. not my first choice in wood for turning, but i promised my father in law (well, i was told to) i'd try to make something from the atlantic cedar storm doris toppled in his garden.
had to remember that baby oil is a little easier on the skin than acetone, for getting the sap off your hands.

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Not fine joinery related but does baby oil work ? Sap's a bugger when it gets on your hands find it worse with rough first fix timber and the odd bit of pao 2nd fix .
Used to find a particular brand of wipes decent for it

Cedar's not the worst for sap. Leylandii is the worst in my experience. Once that sap gets on your hands nothing will shift it.

magicbastarder

i chopped down some leylandii about four years ago, and iirc, the baby oil did a good job of getting the sap off my hands too. doesn't work as quickly as acetone, but also doesn't evaporate away on you the acetone does.

chillyspoon

My current project is mounting an Irwin vise on my workbench.

I ordered one of the light 7" vises (http://www.irwin.co.uk/tools/vices-and-accessories/woodcraft-vices) and one of the much heavier weight ones with the built in dog got delivered (http://www.irwin.co.uk/tools/vices-and-accessories/plain-screw-woodworking-vice), so I'm having to beef up the bench underneath to withstand the leverage!

Sparks

Finished up a few very quickly made bandsaw boxes for an xmas bazaar being held at my son's school for fundraising. The oak ones were a total disaster, the ebonising went badly wrong and they had to be scrapped:



But some of the rest turned out okay, considering they were all made in a week from scraps and ends of boards that had been lying around getting underfoot:

Sparks

Finished up one of Richard Maguire's side tables, so... montage!































Fun build, very satisfying.

Sparks

Bandsaw box for necklaces (or keys I guess) made from a walnut offcut, some brass and pewter hardware and some felt.
Didn’t turn out too badly.

Wossack

what bandsaw do you have Sparks? Do you have it fixed somewhere, or on a moveable cart etc? I think you're working out of a similar area as myself, and am considering getting one, so would be interested in your experiences so far

Sparks

I've got this one Wossack. Wrote about it when I got it here and I've since replaced the guides and the thrust bearing (for about €15 in total). I also bought some extra blades from tuffsaws (an eighth-inch blade, a fine-tooth quarter-inch, a general purpose three-eighths blade and a heavy-duty half-inch blade that I thought I could resaw with but I haven't even undone the cable ties on that one because the three-eighths is about the limit of what the machine can accurately drive (and even that one needed a bearing replaced first).





I don't have room for a mobile cart, I put it on a piece of ply and I was putting it on the ground beside the bench. Then I got a sander and I had to build a very rough frame from 2x4s to stack them on:





It's not a bad little machine. I wouldn't push it too hard, it's got a 75mm capacity and when you get over 25mm it's a slow feed rate; the blade guide mount is plastic so don't expect much from it and the fence... well, throw it way with the box when you unwrap things, it's absolutely ****e. Clamp a length of wood or (what I do) extruded aluminium box section on the table, that makes for a far better fence. Glad I got it; it's a real timesaver for long rip cuts during the rough-cut phase and bandsaw boxes are a nice way to use up scraps. But I wouldn't try to push it past its comfort zone. I only expect to get somewhere around three years of life from it, anything more is a bonus.

About the only thing about it that I wish was better is that it's not able to even try resawing anything wider than 75mm. But I plan to get a bigger bandsaw for that at some stage, and the nice man from An Post just delivered my new frame saw today which I'm hoping will ease the resawing a bit. It's not a roubo frame saw, it's an english frame saw, but according to Richard Maguire they do just as well.

Wossack

Spot on, thanks for the in-depth reply

Sparks

np. BTW, the frame saw? Makes resawing easier but it's still a pig of a job even on modest sized boards. I have to do a siven-inch wide poplar board tomorrow, I fully expect it'll take an hour to do.

Gryzor

Both the da a few beers for christmas. Recycled a pine window board and some flooring to make a tote to hold them. All butt joints, stuck some 6mm walnut dowels into the ends for some extra strength. Just added some furniture polish as finish.

mayo.mick

Sparks wrote: »

I've got this one Wossack. Wrote about it when I got it here and I've since replaced the guides and the thrust bearing (for about €15 in total). I also bought some extra blades from tuffsaws (an eighth-inch blade, a fine-tooth quarter-inch, a general purpose three-eighths blade and a heavy-duty half-inch blade that I thought I could resaw with but I haven't even undone the cable ties on that one because the three-eighths is about the limit of what the machine can accurately drive (and even that one needed a bearing replaced first).





I don't have room for a mobile cart, I put it on a piece of ply and I was putting it on the ground beside the bench. Then I got a sander and I had to build a very rough frame from 2x4s to stack them on:





It's not a bad little machine. I wouldn't push it too hard, it's got a 75mm capacity and when you get over 25mm it's a slow feed rate; the blade guide mount is plastic so don't expect much from it and the fence... well, throw it way with the box when you unwrap things, it's absolutely ****e. Clamp a length of wood or (what I do) extruded aluminium box section on the table, that makes for a far better fence. Glad I got it; it's a real timesaver for long rip cuts during the rough-cut phase and bandsaw boxes are a nice way to use up scraps. But I wouldn't try to push it past its comfort zone. I only expect to get somewhere around three years of life from it, anything more is a bonus.

About the only thing about it that I wish was better is that it's not able to even try resawing anything wider than 75mm. But I plan to get a bigger bandsaw for that at some stage, and the nice man from An Post just delivered my new frame saw today which I'm hoping will ease the resawing a bit. It's not a roubo frame saw, it's an english frame saw, but according to Richard Maguire they do just as well.

I've been on the lookout for the Aldi one myself after looking at Peter's review. Would you recommend the Titan for some small project work? Looking for one for cutting acrylic, corian and timber pen blanks.

Sparks

Haven't tried it with acrylic yet mick (or corian), though I have a fine-tooth blade I got for that. But for small stock for pen blanks? Yeah, it's grand. There's a bunch of small clones of that design or variants of it and they're pretty much all the same general design - they vary in blade guides, table design, how you unlock the doors and so on. The Titan's a pretty good variant from what I can see. The supplied blade isn't even that bad, but I'd still get some from tuffsaws especially for tight curves (that eighth-inch blade is able to make remarkably sharp turns), but don't bother with the half-inch blade, even the three-eighths one needs a new bearing to fit properly.

AidanMike

Wanted to get a proper PC desk but could not afford what we wanted so I just tried to do it myself with pine boards:
I used a free online software to measure and plan it:


and here is the result:

the right part is for the printer (and needed the extra 10cm!

I'm not an expert so the lines are not 100 straight, the measures were good but not perfect, and it took me a good week to do it but well it's a first one and costed me 250 between wood boards and varnish VS too expensive through any shops! plus I'm quite happy of the accomplishment !

feel free to comment positively or negatively all is good when learning!

Sparks

Little busy making xmas gifts of late:

Poplar wall cupboard with perspex front panel. Pinned mortice&tenon front door, dovetailed carcass, shiplapped back boards, cut nails.





Ash and Sapele desktop bookshelf.




Irish Yew truncheon (done by DeVore, I don’t have a lathe) and walnut presentation plate:



And finally, walnut bandsaw boxes with chocolate…

dathi

jewelery box/chest for mrs.D cut the veneers on bandsaw from a piece of flame grained oak that i had for 15 or 16 years hard as the hobs of hell

raspberrypi67

Here is a Pen trurned from Irish Yew and a box I made from Wenge.
Thought I'd share... Have a few more things I'll post later...

raspberrypi67

Small little table I made from Oak. the legs are also turned from Oak. I used Lacquer to give the top a hard wearing finish. Was fun to make...:D

cork2

AidanMike wrote: »

Wanted to get a proper PC desk but could not afford what we wanted so I just tried to do it myself with pine boards:
I used a free online software to measure and plan it:


and here is the result:

the right part is for the printer (and needed the extra 10cm!

I'm not an expert so the lines are not 100 straight, the measures were good but not perfect, and it took me a good week to do it but well it's a first one and costed me 250 between wood boards and varnish VS too expensive through any shops! plus I'm quite happy of the accomplishment !

feel free to comment positively or negatively all is good when learning!

Hi AidanMike,

Can you tell me what software you used to design your project?

Thanks.

..Brian..

That's SketchUp

galwaydude18

dathi wrote: »

jewelery box/chest for mrs.D cut the veneers on bandsaw from a piece of flame grained oak that i had for 15 or 16 years hard as the hobs of hell

What thickness did you cut the veneers at?

dathi

galwaydude18 wrote: »

What thickness did you cut the veneers at?

i cut them about 3mm thick. i have a startrite 352 bandsaw and made a tall plywood fence. rough sanded them with orbital sander to remove the saw marks before i used them