Honda Accord iDTEC DPF light on!

whacker1982

Dcmb1984 wrote: »

I did forced regen twice with a main dealer. 80e each time. The third time my dpf! came on I went to my local garage and he removed it, got it washed, refitted it and changed the engine oil+filter. 550e. Main dealer wanted 1650e for a new one. My local garge also had to do a forced regeneration after refitting washed dpf and I was there when it happened. He basically plugs in the computer and the car does its own thing. Took 30mins. Main dealers are cleaning up out of this. It would take the mechanic 1 min to plug in computer and get it up and running. And one min to disconnect computer. And I'm being generous at that. 80e for 2 mins of a mechanics time.

I rang the local mechanic there, he was saying madness to buy a new one, he will send it to dpf clinic in Shannon change oil and filter €600 he did a 2010 2 months ago this way and it's going good since, he was saying the forced regen last about 2 weeks for the same money €80

Armchair Andy

whacker1982 wrote: »

I rang the local mechanic there, he was saying madness to buy a new one, he will send it to dpf clinic in Shannon change oil and filter €600 he did a 2010 2 months ago this way and it's going good since, he was saying the forced regen last about 2 weeks for the same money €80

I had mine cleaned and refitted about 18 months ago with the regen and not a bother since.Well worth the 600 I think.

TigerTim

whacker1982 wrote: »

I rang the local mechanic there, he was saying madness to buy a new one, he will send it to dpf clinic in Shannon change oil and filter €600 he did a 2010 2 months ago this way and it's going good since, he was saying the forced regen last about 2 weeks for the same money €80

I used the company in Shannon (DPF Clinic) about 6 months ago for the DPF in my Citroen & all OK since.

T.

punisher5112

I would recommend against removal as these are fitted to lower dangerous emissions such as particles, NOx gasses which are extremely harmful.

whacker1982

I'm booked in now to have mine sent to dpf clinic, €600 all in. Went with local garage didn't bother ringing the dealership

Audioslaven

Do the DPF clinic clean your DPF or do they give you a cleaned DPF from some other person's Honda car.

Wonder is there much stripping to take out the DPF in Honda I-DTEC?

I have a Civic I-DTEC 2.2, so if it is pretty straight forward, I would do it myself when the time comes.
I have a Mazda 3 and I took DPF out (DFP and CAT all in one) out a few weeks ago and cleaned it with water and some cleaning fluid. So far so good with it but a new DPF from Mazda is around 650 Euro so that not too bad considering the price of the Honda one.

whacker1982

Audioslaven wrote: »

Do the DPF clinic clean your DPF or do they give you a cleaned DPF from some other person's Honda car.

Wonder is there much stripping to take out the DPF in Honda I-DTEC?

I have a Civic I-DTEC 2.2, so if it is pretty straight forward, I would do it myself when the time comes.
I have a Mazda 3 and I took DPF out (DFP and CAT all in one) out a few weeks ago and cleaned it with water and some cleaning fluid. So far so good with it but a new DPF from Mazda is around 650 Euro so that not too bad considering the price of the Honda one.

Dunno how they go about cleaning it but my mechanic said €300 to get it cleaned and €300 labour

Dcmb1984

whacker1982 wrote:

I rang the local mechanic there, he was saying madness to buy a new one, he will send it to dpf clinic in Shannon change oil and filter €600 he did a 2010 2 months ago this way and it's going good since, he was saying the forced regen last about 2 weeks for the same money €80

Mine was also sent to Shannon. I believe the place in Shannon is the best around. Whatever method they use Im not sure but there seems to be every Tom/Dick and Harry with dpf cleaning machines advertised and I rang a few of them and not many would inspire confidence I'll just say. We had to do a forced regen after fitting the cleaned filter to turn off the dpf! light. Thats 2 months ago and car is goin great. (touch wood). Loads more power.

whacker1982

Dcmb1984 wrote: »

Mine was also sent to Shannon. I believe the place in Shannon is the best around. Whatever method they use Im not sure but there seems to be every Tom/Dick and Harry with dpf cleaning machines advertised and I rang a few of them and not many would inspire confidence I'll just say. We had to do a forced regen after fitting the cleaned filter to turn off the dpf! light. Thats 2 months ago and car is goin great. (touch wood). Loads more power.

Small world, Kevin Hourigan was telling me about your car so, i rang another crowd n limerick and they could not give me a price for it to be cleaned or where it was going. Rang Kevin told me my options and what's the best route to go. Second time dealing with him now. I'll be sticking with him.
How did you twig I was talking about your car???

Dcmb1984

whacker1982 wrote:

I rang the local mechanic there, he was saying madness to buy a new one, he will send it to dpf clinic in Shannon change oil and filter €600 he did a 2010 2 months ago this way and it's going good since, he was saying the forced regen last about 2 weeks for the same money €80

This had to be me.
He is a great mechanic also. A handy guy to know and always willing to help.

pmeade1

Final note on the DPF . DON'T waste your money on regens or filter cleaning!

I tried it all. its doesn't work. A full filter cut and clean lasted about 25K miles , in that time I had to turn off the dpf ! hash light many times using software. Anytime I pushed the power I risked turning on that dreaded light. In the end I had to fork out the 1200 for a replacement DPF. These DPF's seem to be only good for about 100-120K miles. Its a real con considering the cost and all the bull lately telling us that they don't even work!

honestly I don't know what to be believe these days. You would think with the bloody DPF, The EGR, The Cat, and the Adblue in new Euro6 cars that a diesel was clean as a whistle , if not what the hell have we been paying for!

Cee-Jay-Cee

pmeade1 wrote: »

Final note on the DPF . DON'T waste your money on regens or filter cleaning!

I tried it all. its doesn't work. A full filter cut and clean lasted about 25K miles , in that time I had to turn off the dpf ! hash light many times using software. Anytime I pushed the power I risked turning on that dreaded light. In the end I had to fork out the 1200 for a replacement DPF. These DPF's seem to be only good for about 100-120K miles. Its a real con considering the cost and all the bull lately telling us that they don't even work!

honestly I don't know what to be believe these days. You would think with the bloody DPF, The EGR, The Cat, and the Adblue in new Euro6 cars that a diesel was clean as a whistle , if not what the hell have we been paying for!

They are clean as you can possibly get however the cost of keeping them clean far outweighs any saving made in fuel costs.

punisher5112

It's to try and cut as much toxic gasses being emitted such as cancerous nox gas.

Diesel in trucks and buses will be around much longer but cars are slowly moving away.

Many many people buy without even needing which is worse as they very rarely get to optimum temperature to burn off as much of the toxins.

Worth knowing that there are these extra costs and someone better with figures may be able to mash up an idea of costs compared to running a fairly economical petrol.

pmeade1

For the record petrol cars generate NOx also and higher levels of C02, in fact the Euro 6 diesel is reported to be cleaner than many petrol cars. Regarding costs. I drive long distance and to be honest diesel is far far more economical, extra costs included than any petrol. That said I don't like having to fork out for emission kit that appears not to work very well in my old car,,DPF's!
I think diesel is being "marketed" out to make room for electric. In my opinion electric will be worth considering when it matches the range of current cars and when batteries last more than 6-8 years. I wonder how you would get a decent resale for electric with the current battery life..

Audioslaven

pmeade1 wrote: »

Final note on the DPF . DON'T waste your money on regens or filter cleaning!

I think you are correct on the DPF cleans. You just can't clean them enough and it is really just a temporary measure. It makes the final DPF replacement cost more expensive.

Did you use genuine Honda DPF?

pmeade1

I used a genuine Honda in the end for peace of mind!

Audioslaven

pmeade1 wrote: »

I used a genuine Honda in the end for peace of mind!

I have a Mazda 3 and while the dpf has not put a light on I cleaned it twice as it had a dpf duration error logged in ecu. It was doing a regen ever 80 km and now I am ever 300km. These cleans have stopped the error and while I used a chemical with a large flow of water, in my opinion I just cleaned the inner part of the dpf. I have got over a year out of it and the car is used for small runs but I give it a good run once a week. The power also came back into the car after the cleans. I think it is hard to clean the whole part of the dpf and as such a new dpf is the best solution long term.

Your thread is great and fair play to you for updating everyone. I have a civic idtec so I have a concerned interest in your thread

jayo26

pmeade1 wrote: »

I used a genuine Honda in the end for peace of mind!

After I had my problem 2 year ago I had no other issues. The Honda garage cleaned it and did force teen on computer and it lasted 50k I traded it in two weeks ago so won't know how long more it lasts but I'm fully convinced it's a problem that can happen at any time.

ABC101

pmeade1 wrote: »

Final note on the DPF . DON'T waste your money on regens or filter cleaning!

I tried it all. its doesn't work. A full filter cut and clean lasted about 25K miles , in that time I had to turn off the dpf ! hash light many times using software. Anytime I pushed the power I risked turning on that dreaded light. In the end I had to fork out the 1200 for a replacement DPF. These DPF's seem to be only good for about 100-120K miles. Its a real con considering the cost and all the bull lately telling us that they don't even work!

honestly I don't know what to be believe these days. You would think with the bloody DPF, The EGR, The Cat, and the Adblue in new Euro6 cars that a diesel was clean as a whistle , if not what the hell have we been paying for!

A couple of points from my side.

1) Thanks for sharing the info, both initially and the recent update, I did have my doubts that it was going to work but I was really hopeful that your efforts would be successful, unfortunately it was not to be.

2) While you may be of the opinion that your efforts at trying to clean a old DPF unit were a waste of time / money, you would never have known if you had not tried. If you had just bought a new DPF years ago you could still have a niggle in the back of your mind... should you have tried other methods prior to replacement?

3) While 1200 e will burn a hole in most peoples pockets, you should still have made a saving in running a diesel engine car as distinct from a petrol given the high annual mileage. All in all the DPF cost probably would have been covered in the first 12 months of use.

4) 1200e does not sound expensive for a DPF unit, I would have thought closer to 2000e, unless the quotes I have heard about also included labor? I have heard some cars require enormous labor time as suspension has to be dropped / removed to physically get at the DPF unit. Prehaps it is physically easy to get at the Accord DPF and as such labor costs are much lower?

5) I'm not sure what you mean about Euro 6 emission control equipment not working? I was under the impression that they do work, but when people remove DPF filters, or the car company decides to cheat then the emission standards are broken.

It is important to remember that with the recent Volkswagen diesel gate scandal, a number of cars were tested, the BMW X5 met the standard and it was not cheating. The Volkswagen Jetta also met the emission standard (but only on the dyno) and not on a regular road. So it met the standard when been tested.


Anyway, you reckon around 110K miles and the DPF filter will require replacement, you could probably throw in the fuel injectors as well?

pmeade1

thanks for comments and feedback

I got about 110-120K miles before my DPF started to give hassle. No Fuel injectors probs so far.

Besides normal wear the accord has given me the following issues:

1. DPF
2. EGR pipe fault ( known issue - but Honda have only a limited warranty on these) real serious issue as toxic gas in cabin).
3. Rear brake calipers faulty.

Thinking about getting into a Mazda 6 next ,, Anyone got some feedback on a 2016-> Mazda 6 Diesel ?

bazz26

pmeade1 wrote: »

thanks for comments and feedback

I got about 110-120K miles before my DPF started to give hassle. No Fuel injectors probs so far.

Besides normal wear the accord has given me the following issues:

1. DPF
2. EGR pipe fault ( known issue - but Honda have only a limited warranty on these) real serious issue as toxic gas in cabin).
3. Rear brake calipers faulty.

Thinking about getting into a Mazda 6 next ,, Anyone got some feedback on a 2016-> Mazda 6 Diesel ?

jayo26

pmeade1 wrote: »

Thinking about getting into a Mazda 6 next ,, Anyone got some feedback on a 2016-> Mazda 6 Diesel ?

While I don't have any experience on what they are like to live with I will say that I drove a couple 2015 Mazda 6 a few weeks ago when I was changing myself and I really really liked the engine and the drive they felt really nice on the road if you can source a platinum model they are lovely cars inside and out.

bazz26

Honestly, if you had trouble with a Honda Accord diesel then the last thing you want is a Mazda 6 diesel. Stay clear is my advice.

jayo26

bazz26 wrote: »

Honestly, if you had trouble with a Honda Accord diesel then the last thing you want is a Mazda 6 diesel. Stay clear is my advice.

Are they that bad? A mate of mine as a 131 Mazda 6 with over 200k on it with no problems of note.

The problems he had with the accord I wouldn't say were bad for a diesel to be fair could of been a lot worse

ABC101

pmeade1 wrote: »

thanks for comments and feedback

I got about 110-120K miles before my DPF started to give hassle. No Fuel injectors probs so far.

Besides normal wear the accord has given me the following issues:

1. DPF
2. EGR pipe fault ( known issue - but Honda have only a limited warranty on these) real serious issue as toxic gas in cabin).
3. Rear brake calipers faulty.

Thinking about getting into a Mazda 6 next ,, Anyone got some feedback on a 2016-> Mazda 6 Diesel ?

While you can blame Honda for faulty rear brake calipers, if you looked into it you would probably find the brake calipers are not made by Honda but by some third party. So much goes into a car which is made by other manufacturers, for example Subaru have used IHI, Mitsubishi and now Honeywell for turbocharging their Diesel engines. So when a part fails it is hard to know if it is the car makes fault or some other manufacturer. Toyota had a problem with airbags a few years ago, but the airbags were not made by Toyota but somebody else.

Speaking of Mazda, I’ve heard of one Mazda 6 which had to have both rear brake calipers replaced. A hire car was required as it took several days for the parts to arrive. In addition I believe some of the Mazda diesels are actually Ford engines, perhaps some other poster can confirm?

As I see it your requirements are

1). Reliability, when things do brake parts can be quickly sourced and are not prohibitively expensive.
2). Fuel economy, given the high mileage you mentioned previously.
3). Comfortable seating, again given the high mileage.

Personally I think the Japs make great cars, but for comfort the European cars seem to be better at making more comfy seats.

Rather than looking at Mazda 6, perhaps a Skoda Superb green line might be an option?

pmeade1

thanks for feedback. Bazz26, why would you advice staying away from Mazda 6, what kind of issues with it?

Yea overall the Honda is reliable but for the exhaust cleaning kit they stuck, probably same for most diesels .

jca

The 1.6 engine in the Mazda is a disaster the 2.2 is slightly better. The suggestion of a Superb is a good one I wouldn't worry whether it was greenline or not as there's little difference in real world economy. Oh, the 2 litre is the engine to go for in the superb the 1.6 is too slow for high mileage use.

jayo26

Get a nice 520d you won't look at anything else trust me

ABC101

jca wrote: »

The 1.6 engine in the Mazda is a disaster the 2.2 is slightly better. The suggestion of a Superb is a good one I wouldn't worry whether it was greenline or not as there's little difference in real world economy. Oh, the 2 litre is the engine to go for in the superb the 1.6 is too slow for high mileage use.

Yeah, agreed WRT the 2.0 vrs 1.6 lt.

ABC101

jayo26 wrote: »

Get a nice 520d you won't look at anything else trust me

As long as it does not have the N47 engine!!:pac::pac: