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Old Tool Restoration

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  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    Got hold of this recently from a relative.

    They had many planes, some of them brought back from the USA by a relative on his return in the 1950's. Others were mostly bought in UK from 1950's onwards.

    Any ideas on the age of this one, and is it likely to be one from the USA ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Got hold of this recently from a relative.

    They had many planes, some of them brought back from the USA by a relative on his return in the 1950's. Others were mostly bought in UK from 1950's onwards.

    Any ideas on the age of this one, and is it likely to be one from the USA ?

    Dust it off, you never know it might just say Made in USA?


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    I didn't word it very clearly, but I meant was it likely that it was a pre 50's era plane that the relative would have brought back with him.

    I have others that have Stanley and Bailey on them, which I presume are later.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    I didn't word it very clearly, but I meant was it likely that it was a pre 50's era plane that the relative would have brought back with him.

    I have others that have Stanley and Bailey on them, which I presume are later.

    Hard to say from your photos but there is a wealth of information online and there is always a chance you have a mix and match of bits, all looks good on yours though.

    My first thoughts were it might be a type 7 (thats an age type not the size) which is nice and early but then I decided it probably wasn't and the reason I said to clean it is you'd need to see what is written in the casting behind the frog and just below the brass adjusting nut. One of the first things to check is the number of patent number in the casting which may be none or more. I first thought there might be two but when I realised I was wrong on that my type 7 feeling disappeared.

    The other place of interest I can't really see is the lateral adjustment lever and that may also be marked in a way that helps indicate age.


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    Thanks again, dismantled it and it has three patent dates cast into the body.

    Googling suggests it may be a type 11 from around 1910-18 if I'm reading it correctly. It's looks in remarkably good condition, a mixture of lightly oiled sawdust has preserved it well.

    There were quite a few interesting other items, well I thought so anyway. Maybe I could post the odd photo if there's any interest, and it's suitable for this thread.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Thanks again, dismantled it and it has three patent dates cast into the body.

    Googling suggests it may be a type 11 from around 1910-18 if I'm reading it correctly. It's looks in remarkably good condition, a mixture of lightly oiled sawdust has preserved it well.

    There were quite a few interesting other items, well I thought so anyway. Maybe I could post the odd photo if there's any interest, and it's suitable for this thread.

    Old tool porn is always welcome :)

    I key it out as either a type 11 or type 12 using https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ but there are lots of others.

    In this case its all down to the size of the brass depth adjusting nut.

    Condition is far from perfect for a collector, but its perfect for a user.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,429 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not so old - i recently picked up a modern, barely used 4 1/2, and the nut which holds the rear handle steady is missing - anyone know what size or standard this is?
    not as nice as an old tool - plastic handles an obvious difference.

    427644.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    not so old - i recently picked up a modern, barely used 4 1/2, and the nut which holds the rear handle steady is missing - anyone know what size or standard this is?
    not as nice as an old tool - plastic handles an obvious difference.

    I'm fairly sure the plastic handles use a different thread to the old ones :(

    I know there is far more than you need here but if even using AddressPal this is going to be your cheapest option https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Spares-112700-Standard-Handles/dp/B008H0QH5M/ or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Spares-112701-Bailey-Handles/dp/B0042A0ZK4/ depending which sized handles you need probably the first but both have the same size screws.

    Plenty of the old ones on ebay but when you add the postage the above is still attractive.


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    my3cents wrote: »
    Old tool porn is always welcome :)

    I key it out as either a type 11 or type 12 using https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ but there are lots of others.

    In this case its all down to the size of the brass depth adjusting nut.

    Condition is far from perfect for a collector, but its perfect for a user.



    Thanks for the link, it's not the one I used but it gives same result. The brass adjusting nut is the smaller 1" size.

    It's certainly goood enough for this user, and nice to continue using something that has been in the family for so long.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    not so old - i recently picked up a modern, barely used 4 1/2, and the nut which holds the rear handle steady is missing - anyone know what size or standard this is?
    not as nice as an old tool - plastic handles an obvious difference.

    427644.jpg

    You can get replacement "rosewood" handles online, but you're looking at €20 or more for pair (tote and knob). McQuillans on Capel Street also carry some replacement spare parts (including those nuts, threaded studs, machine screws and bits) for Stanley planes- not cheap either but might suit you if you want to compare....


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    You can get replacement "rosewood" handles online, but you're looking at €20 or more for pair (tote and knob). McQuillans on Capel Street also carry some replacement spare parts (including those nuts, threaded studs, machine screws and bits) for Stanley planes- not cheap either but might suit you if you want to compare....

    I can remember when you could write a sob story to the Stanley works in the UK and they'd happily send out small spares like screws and nuts free of charge. How things have changed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭imakebiodiesel


    You plane is indeed a type 11 and is considered by many collectors and users to be the best version of the Bailey type plane ever made. The condition looks good for the age so you have a really nice tool there. You dont mention any details about the blade. This may or may not be original, what is stamped on it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    You plane is indeed a type 11 and is considered by many collectors and users to be the best version of the Bailey type plane ever made. The condition looks good for the age so you have a really nice tool there. You dont mention any details about the blade. This may or may not be original, what is stamped on it?

    It has "STANLEY, NEW BRITAIN, CONN. U.S.A." stamped on it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭imakebiodiesel


    That would be consistent with the age of the plane and will be a good quality blade. From the picture It would seem about half the blade has been used but it still has many years of use left.
    If you did eventually want to replace it I would seek out a Sweetheart blade for it. These were made by Stanley from 1915 till 1935 and were the best ever made by Stanley. You can still find full length ones on Ebay occasionally.


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭Zebbedee


    Reading this thread has prompted me to attempt to clean up some old planes and other woodworking tools I have.
    Some of the old stanley planes have wooden grips so can I assume not to immerse the wood into the vinegar salt solution?
    I have other all wooden planes made by Booth Brothers Dublin and J G Graves Sheffield. How do I clean up the body's on those?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,429 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    no, you'd take the wooden handles off before immersing them. unless they're really bad, a good scrub with WD40 or similar and some wire wool may be less faff?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    For cleaning up wooden plane bodies etc I've used a mix of white spirit and boiled linseed oil. Use this in conjunction with some green pot scourers and plenty of kitchen paper to remove the gunge whilst maintaining the patina and oiling the wood.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭imakebiodiesel


    Jack of all has got it exactly right, you want to clean off the dirt without removing the patina of age and use.. Thinning the linseed oil allows it to penetrate the wood deeply and provide long term protection from woodworm. The green pot scrubs or perhaps fine wire wool are gentle enough not to scratch the wood surface.
    Your Planes by Booth Bros are quite rare, they were the only Irish makers of planes and cast steel chisels in the 19th century. its not clear whether they made them themselves or imported them from England with their names on them. Either way they are rare and of special interest.


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    Beautiful casting, could look at it all day :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Your Planes by Booth Bros are quite rare, they were the only Irish makers of planes and cast steel chisels in the 19th century. its not clear whether they made them themselves or imported them from England with their names on them. Either way they are rare and of special interest.

    That's very interesting- I have a couple of tools by Booth's, one wooden moulding plane at least. When I tried to research them I couldn't find out very much about them. I got in contact with a well-known hand tool expert in the US who was aware of them but couldn't tell me much else.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭imakebiodiesel


    Here is a link to some info about them, particularly their lathes.
    I believe they are still in business somewhere in north Dublin but they are just machinery importers now.
    John


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Here is a link to some info about them, particularly their lathes.
    I believe they are still in business somewhere in north Dublin but they are just machinery importers now.
    John


    Thanks John, link missing but a quick google found it for me. My great grandfather had a woodturning lathe that I believe may have originated from them (or at the very least some of the mechanical parts- headstock, tailstock, rest etc). Icould put up a picture of it later, if you're interested in seeing how it looked?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 144 ✭✭geraardo


    Beautiful casting, could look at it all day :o

    Is it yours ? very nice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭imakebiodiesel


    Jack of all, yes I would be very interested to see a picture of it. there cant be many of them around.
    Collibosher, Prestons casting quality was incredible, even today that crispness in a casting is rare. If that one is yours you are lucky , it has a full length original blade. When I got mine the blade was almost worn down completely. Fortunately i was able to buy a brand new blade for it from Ray Illes in Sheffield.
    He makes replacement high quality blades for almost all vintage British tools and very reasonably priced.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    @imakebiodiesel

    Sorry for the delay, only got the pics of the lathe today. I can't find any names/ numbers or any other information that would help to identify it. It make be nothing to do with Booth Brothers at all, but it is an interesting machine nonetheless.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    @imakebiodiesel

    Sorry for the delay, only got the pics of the lathe today. I can't find any names/ numbers or any other information that would help to identify it. It make be nothing to do with Booth Brothers at all, but it is an interesting machine nonetheless.

    Are the oblong bits on the end of the large pulley wheel iron to give it a bit more weight?


  • Registered Users Posts: 815 ✭✭✭Collibosher


    Collibosher, Prestons casting quality was incredible, even today that crispness in a casting is rare. If that one is yours you are lucky , it has a full length original blade. When I got mine the blade was almost worn down completely. Fortunately i was able to buy a brand new blade for it from Ray Illes in Sheffield.
    He makes replacement high quality blades for almost all vintage British tools and very reasonably priced.

    Thanks, it was owned and used by my grandfather. It jumped out at me when I first saw it :)


    Also came across this Stanley 386 jointer fence. It's missing the knob, not sure if it's specific to this or is same as used on planes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    my3cents wrote: »
    Are the oblong bits on the end of the large pulley wheel iron to give it a bit more weight?

    I believe so, it's basically a flywheel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭Zebbedee


    I believe so, it's basically a flywheel.

    Perhaps also, the weights were added in strategic places to balance the flywheel.
    Much in the same way weights are added to car rims.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,363 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Zebbedee wrote: »
    Perhaps also, the weights were added in strategic places to balance the flywheel.
    Much in the same way weights are added to car rims.

    Nice idea, but I don't think a flywheel like this would have needed much in the way of dynamic balancing, it's peripheral speed is pretty low, in comparison to a motor powered lathe. The weights are located equidistant around the circumference, or as close as makes no difference.

    As an aside, I've never used a treadle-powered lathe like this, the nearest I've done is using a pole lathe and with this you need to use really sharp tools as the speed of the workpiece is so low. With a motor powered lathe you can get away with less than sharp tools- they will still yield results, on a pole lathe blunt tools are a no-no. I'd imagine the same would be true for this treadle lathe.


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