Mira Elite QT Shower

WMB7575

Changing to the Triton T90SR is my plan €239 in local hardware

thanks 🙏

The Great Gonzo

OK Folks

After reading all of this thread I am now convinced I should not get a Mira Elite QT.

So, the recommended replacement seems to be Triton T90SR or T900PI.

I do have one reservation about it so I’ll explain.

Around 2011 we had our main bathroom completely tiled and a Mira Elite ST fitted.

It was the 9.8KW @ 240V model which, I think, works out at 9.0KW @ 230V

The first thing that happened was the users complained that the flow rate at a particular temperature was not good.

The shower is only a few feet away from the tank, maybe 2 metres of pipe on a single direct feed off the tank and had a brand new 10 sq mm cable.

My plumber\electrician told me you should get nearly 5 degrees per KW, which would give us nearly 45 degrees increase in temperature but couldn’t tell me what flow rate you would get at that temperature though I don’t think anyone would want the shower that hot considering the tank water was probably between 5-8 degrees.

Anyway, we persevered with it until it screamed itself to death about a month after the warranty expired on a Friday afternoon when we were having visitors for the weekend. A quick trip to Chadwicks got a replacement Mira Elite ST but this time I got the 10.8 KW @240V model which is 9.9 KW @ 230V.

This gave me an extra KW of heat assuming we don’t take into account the power used by the pump.

This replacement is now finally screaming itself to death, probably the bearings, but has given nearly 9 years’ service and was complemented by the users as having a better flowrate at the particular temperature they liked.

So, I’m leaning towards the Triton T90SR and I’m not particularly worried about it being landscape as opposed to portrait, old screw holes can after all be filled in. But it does appear to be an incredibly quiet shower unit and some of you on this forum have fitted many of them and seem to recommend them highly.

My concern is will dropping back to 9KW from the 9.9KW @ 230V Mira ST cause me untold grief from the users complaining about bad flow rates at a particular temperature?

Now don’t get me wrong about Mira…we had a Mira 8.4 Supreme, mains water fed, when we moved into the house first and got nearly 20 years’ service and only replaced a pressure switch in that time. The damn thing was still working when we took it out to put in the tank fed one.

So, Mira did make some good shower units.

Any advice or comments are welcome.     

John.G

A 9kw shower assuming present mains temp of 8C and a required showering temp of 40C, will give a flow rate of 9*860/60/(40-8), 4.03LPM. A 9.9 kw shower will give 9.9*860/60/(40-8), 4.43 LPM or 10% greater flow.

You can do your own calcs/tests from the above, as you can see the calc....LPM = The shower power in KWX860/60/(flow temp - the mains temp) or any variation of this.

Its a pretty foolproof method if you have any doubts about your installation, all you need is a household thermometer, a bucket, a 1 litre milk bottle and the stop watch on your phone.

Try that now on your present shower and you will get a good feel for any problems unrelated to the shower, one of the main culprits can be low voltage, for one reason or the other.

kirk.

Stuck a t90sr in my place today , few design quirks I thought

I've a lot of experience on Mira's much easier install I thought.

Don't particularly like the screws making contact with the metal riser rail but maybe it's nothing

Online manual give me a break

Sleeper12

On current mira Elite SE showers it's even worse. The shower pole slides into plastic. Plastic grips the pole via one screw. This puts strain on the plastic causing it to crack and break. Hose is no longer chrome. It's a €35 plastic hose that most people need to replace after a year.

I should point out that easier to install is only important at the time of installation. Quality of the shower build is important every day for the lifespan of the shower. At least you picked the better of the two showers even if you found it more difficult to install

kirk.

First time installation so yes I did find the whole thing laborious esp. following an online manual .

I did like the commissioning process on the Triton although long-winded following it online

Some of the wiring seemed ropey though

Main cables protruding on top , shortish wire on neon

I'm also used to the simplicity of the acorn dropping straight into the shower without the complication of a right angle but hey I'm not a plumber

kirk.

My issue with the metal riser rail is if the screw inadvertently catches the cable the rail could potentially become live

A lot of installers plumbers etc wouldn't be wise to this hazard

A lot of sparks would know to test the rail if needed ,simple job with an ir tester

Sleeper12

That makes absolutely no sense at all.

Cable & cold water feed straight down in an exact position or go up in a straight position to the left of the shower. The reason it's exact is to avoid the possibility of drilling into the pipe or cable when pinning the shower to the wall. The cable & pipe shouldn't go hororizontal, diagonally or any other way. Shower pole doesn't go above the shower. If installed correctly following wiring regulations and installation instructions there zero possibility of the screws from the pole catching the cable.

Shower installation isn't a DIY job. In fact we have laws here in Ireland prohibiting DIY installations. There is even a threat of prison for such an offence. Getting in a professional installation company rules out the risks you fear

kirk.

No idea what you're on about maybe read post again, im on about the extra right angle that's supplied

I said the same thing , vertical drop on pipe and cable

Live rail is low risk but a small risk is there

I don't fear any risks im pointing out minor issues im a spark with 30 yrs experience plenty of shower installs and repairs

Sleeper12

What's confusing me is the shower has the CE mark. It also has the Beab, meaning that it was fully tested for electric safety. A screw from the pole can't go into the cable for the shower. Shower is designed so that cable is no way near the shower pole. The screw going through the chrome pole is industry standard. Just about every chrome soap tray or corner bottle holding tray has screws going through them and into the wall in the exact same way. In fact even the shower door or bath screen is pinned to the wall in the exact same way.

I trying to hear what you are saying but I just don't see the safety issue you see that all safety standards don't see. This is why I assumed a DIY job.

Well congratulations on entering the world of Triton electric showers.

SheroP

Hi

don’t know if this has been covered and I hope someone can help

I moved a Mira elite st from one wall to another in same shower cubicle ( and services)

Went to turn on shower and it’s making a loud labouring noise and little water coming from shower head

I’ve opened back up shower and opened bung on where the water inlet is

no issue with water pressure

can someone please advise what’s going on and can it be repaired or does it need to be replaced

thanks all in advance

Hawthorn500

I also recently got the classic leaking elbow joint problem on my Mira Elite QT. First noticed it as water dripping from bottom of filter. Ordered the new elbow and clips from showerrepair.com link given in the thread. My advice to others doing it is disconnect the water to shower rather than relying on just removing the filter cartridge to stop flow. You can then remove the whole section more easily, making sure to pull out the rubber plug at top of solenoid that sleeper12 mentions. You should check for leaks afterwards as after I put on new elbow, found it was leaking from a new spot above filter cartridge. Just needs to be sitting correctly and not at an angle. Anyway worth the €30 for part + shipping.

Sleeper12

https://youtube.com/shorts/kwB9jibz7cg?si=RtQ6JtocFX3ay5Pl

The Mira Elite pump elbow is on the MK3 version. That 3 attempts to get it right since launch in 2016. They have ditched the pump elbow altogether a few months ago. I've had five of them leak in the last few weeks. Not put together correctly in the factory. Unfortunately shower is installed before you realize that it's leaking. It needs to be removed from the wall again and taken apart to fit the leaking part correctly. You then need to refit the shower itself.

This is effectively the fourth attempt to get this right over seven years. Shocking at how they can't get this correct after so many years

Hawthorn500

You would think with the straight connection it would be much less likely to leak, that’s not great ! Thanks for all your advice on the thread btw !

lisij

have my Mira QT leaking through filter, i assume elbow arm need replacement, is it worth to do the repair yourself? no problem with doing these sort of stuff, but just need some reassurance that i wont mess thing up, is it easy to do? Also will consider a new model, i read through the post and everyone seem to recommend the triton T90SR, how is it noise wise? Is there a complete silent electric showers available?

Sleeper12

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122058978#Comment_122058978

Personally I don't believe it's worth paying someone €120 to replace the elbow in this model. It was a problematic lemon of a shower. Pump elbow costs around €30 Inc postage. You'd get a new Mira Elite SE or Triton t90sr silent shower supplied and fitted Inc vat for around €400 in the Dublin area.

You may have to fit the new one & then refit it a few times before you get it right but not too much can go wrong. I have shown plumbers how to replace it and they still get drips. No need to turn off the water. Just remove the filter and no water flows through the shower