Barrel Break-in

German pointer

Hi lads and Lassies a lot of talk and posts of proper barrel brake in procedures I had a Remington 700 in .270 I got it new a few years ago and went straight out with it and started shooting and it was a 1 hole group still after several hundred rounds, but having traded that for a new T3 Stainless Varmint I decided to take the question in hand and emailed the Tikka distributor in England as to whether it needs a break in or not and what follows is my question and his reply.
Question
Hi there,
I have just purchased a new T3 Stainless Varmint in .270 Win. And hope to collect it soon from my firearms dealer.
Is there any special procedure I should follow when using it for the first time?
Thanks

Reply
Good morning,
Please find attached a copy of the T3 manual for your information, please note in addition to the initial cleaning before first use we recommend that you “ shoot the barrel in”.

So once you have carried out the initial maintenance before use we suggest that you fire a single round and then clean the barrel thoroughly and then fire another round, repeat this for approximately ten rounds or so.

Cass

This topic is right up there with how long is a piece of string.

People vary their opinions and even companies have become involved. Even some of the biggest custom manufacturers. Some say to do it, others say if you feel like it, and the rest say don't bother that it's a scam.

I have done the break in process (granted on custom barrels) and found that there was no perceivable difference between the barrels i broke in and those i did not in terms o performance, etc.

After saying that i've had a few factory rifles, CZ springs to mind, in .223, etc and found that with break in the group size did tighten. My mate had/has a Savage in .223 (model 10) and it's a tac diver straight out of the box. So perhaps it's more down to manufacturer than caliber. IOW how they rifle the barrels, the materials used in manufacturing, etc.

German pointer

I know this subject brings to mind 2 words

CAN

WORMS

But thought I would put the reply I got out there for people to see

4200fps

According to Sako I see they say do not scrub barrel. More or less saying as well to allow patches with solvents do the work. Also Sako states after thorough cleaning push an oily cleaning cloth through the bore so rifle can be stored in this condition for some time.

Cass

I have said that for years. From 3 years ago:

Cass wrote: »

DO NOT use a bronze brush. At all. I hate brushes, and if stuck would only consider a nylon brush. There are a serious amount of solvents designed to clean out carbon, and copper fouling from barrels, and i see lads scrubbing the crap out of their rifles even after applying the solvent. There is no need. The solvent will do the work if you use it right, and give it time to do it's job. Too many times lads get fed up waiting, and go to town on it.

I would only use patches, and the solvents. Using a carbon remover first, then wiping out with Meth. Spirits, then using the copper solvents, and patches, and again wiping out with Meth. Spirits to clear out any remaining residue.

Also if using a rod to clean the rifle keep a cloth, and as you draw back the rod from the barrel wipe the rod body. This cleans off any residue that may act as a "lapping paste". Lastly use a bore guide. Prevents damage to the chamber, and crap coming back into your action.

Not that my opinion or even Sako's is the more correct than anyone else's but when you think about it the barrel is a hardened composite material. No bronze brush is going to help or aid in break in. All it'll do is remove the fouling. Only after thousands of rounds will there be wear and mostly this will be the chamber. It's why "topping and tailing" is so common.

yubabill1

4200fps wrote: »

Also Sako states after thorough cleaning push an oily cleaning cloth through the bore so rifle can be stored in this condition for some time.

That's fine for long-term storage.

Did exactly that for over 20 years until I discovered Meths.

Just remember to swab out the oil before using rifle again or you risk printing a nice, round, permanent pressure ring into your barrel he next time you shoot it.

4200fps

yubabill1 wrote: »

That's fine for long-term storage.

Did exactly that for over 20 years until I discovered Meths.

Just remember to swab out the oil before using rifle again or you risk printing a nice, round, permanent pressure ring into your barrel he next time you shoot it.

I've a sako and I don't clean it the way they suggest. Still shoots very well