Cyclocross Season

lennymc

Eamonnator wrote: »

My son has just finished his conversion. He has a narrow/ wide 36 chainring on Shimano 105 cranks, 105 5700 shifter, 10 speed cassette (11-32), and a shimano clutch rear mech. He has it working spot on. I had a go on it, this afternoon, seems perfect to me. He had to make an adaptor for the mech to adjust the cable shift.
I will be using this bike on Sunday, in the CX race, in the North. It will be my first ever CX race.

Should have read the replies....

Must pop round and have a look at his setup.

Eamonnator

I'll have the bike from Saturday, until next Wednesday. Call anytime.

dave2pvd

Paul Components make a really good chain guide for single ring conversions. I wasted money on 2 others types before finally spending the money on this one:



Edit: the shorter chain ring bolts came from problemsolversbike.com

Raam

Maybe I will wait till stuff breaks before changing.

Alek

A 8 or 9sp rear MTB derailleur will work with 10sp shimano road shifters with no problem. They have only changed the cable pull in 10sp MTB ones.

Just realised that 11-36 and 42T will give me wider range than 12-27 and 44/34T that I currently have Huge jumps though... Checking prices...

Eamonnator

But, can you get a clutch type rear mech in 9 speed?
If you can, that would be a neat solution.

Alek

Does "Shadow" technology mean that the derailleur is a clutch-type? If so, there is plenty.

Tenzor07

Eamonnator wrote: »

But, can you get a clutch type rear mech in 9 speed?
If you can, that would be a neat solution.

Only in 10-Spd for MTB clutch mechs..

Narrow/wide chainring up front and a road mech should do the job of keeping the chain on, take a few links out of your chain also.

dave2pvd

Tenzor07 wrote: »

Only in 10-Spd for MTB clutch mechs..

Narrow/wide chainring up front and a road mech should do the job of keeping the chain on, take a few links out of your chain also.

Or just buy a chain guide and then you can use any 10sp ring you want. Cheaper that way. Cheaper is good - CX consumes components at a fierce rate.

boomdocker

Some comments...

With a narrow-wide chainring and a clutch derailleur you have no need for any sort of chain device. I run this setup on two mtbs and it works...previously I had a chain device and non clutch mech with narrow wide - didn;t work so good. ALL chain devices are a pain in the h*** if you ask me.

So the key is the clutch mech.

AFAIK clutch mechs are only available in 10 spd an up. I use Shimano Zee, cheap and cheerful and almost indestructible

Finally - for CX - why a single ring? Surely you would be under geared?? Both for racing and for spins on the road??

dave2pvd

boomdocker wrote: »

Some comments...

With a narrow-wide chainring and a clutch derailleur you have no need for any sort of chain device. I run this setup on two mtbs and it works...previously I had a chain device and non clutch mech with narrow wide - didn;t work so good. ALL chain devices are a pain in the h*** if you ask me.

So the key is the clutch mech.

AFAIK clutch mechs are only available in 10 spd an up. I use Shimano Zee, cheap and cheerful and almost indestructible

Finally - for CX - why a single ring? Surely you would be under geared?? Both for racing and for spins on the road??

Lots of people use single ring. It works very well for many courses. Mine is a tad overgeared at 42Tx28. Though cross chained, it works great on the road with the 11 on the rear.

Many chain guides are junk. And bash guards alone won't work. Find the right guide and you have a much cheaper solution than new derailleurs and splayed/longtooth chainrings.

FYI, the not-so-good guides are anything that does not come across the top of the chain, or the cheaper ones, like Deda Dog Fang.

niceonetom

Seems like any solution other than the off-the-peg SRAM setup is going to require some bodging.

In that spirit, here's my attempt. Ghetto as iot gets.



Standard chainset with a 39t ring, a cheapo front derailleur cut and filed so it can sit lower on the seat-tube without fouling the chainstay, thereby keeping the chain from coming up, limit screws ensure that the chain can't go over side to side.

I've only out on it for a few spins thus far and it seems to work.

Lusk_Doyle

Raam wrote: »

Maybe I will wait till stuff breaks before changing.

I bet that you don't.

Raam

Entry for Fixx Supercross round 3 is open...
http://fs25.formsite.com/twracing/form15/index.html

lennymc

Raam wrote: »

Entry for Fixx Supercross round 3 is open...
http://fs25.formsite.com/twracing/form15/index.html

entered!

The tax man

Ta for the heads up Raam.
Entered, now off to practice some more.:o

RobFowl

lennymc wrote: »

entered!

See you there !

wanderer 22

I'm in.

lennymc

RobFowl wrote: »

See you there !

Bring it on!

Alek

colm18 wrote: »

I'm in.

Me too. I hope I won't get sick like a dog this time and manage to turn up.

wanderer 22

Planning on doing some training in the phoenix park tomorrow if anyone wants to join

Pablo Rubio

Thanks for heads up. B RACE filling up already.signed up for more pain!

The tax man

colm18 wrote: »

Planning on doing some training in the phoenix park tomorrow if anyone wants to join

The park was nice and muddy today. Won't be able to make it tomorrow.
Not looking forward to the cleaning job.

Alek

Not looking forward to the cleaning job.

Just apply rule #9

How do you find the brakes compared to road calipers?

The tax man

I find them quite good. I haven't used disc brakes since the early 90's and these are a huge leap forward. Only the second day out on them so not sure if pads and discs are bedded in yet. They'd certainly stop you, nice modulation on the levers. I must run through some emergency braking on tarmac to see how hard I can pull the lever till they lock up.

Alek

I have them on my bike - but was wondering are they much better than rim brakes in terms of modulation. Its been ages since I've ridden a bike with road calipers so have no direct comparison.

The tax man

Maybe with a bit more time using the disc brakes I'll be able to give you a better answer. I still have to get the feel for them.
How do you find the hybrid setup compared to the full cable setup?

Alek

If you ask about the difference between fully mechanical Spyre and hybrid Hy/RD, the latter is a bit more grippy and the pad self-adjusting feature is great. With metal sintered pads, it is literally set and forget for 3-6k km.

The downside is that you have no control over the initial lever throw, unless you resort to overfilling the reservoir which requires some skill and is not a officially recommended thing to do (TRP support may advise this it over email on case-by-case basis) I have done this and its much more to my liking.

With Spyres, you can easily fine-tune the lever feel with barrel adjuster. But then you need to do it as the pads wear out - even as often as after a few rides, if you brake often (city centre commuter racing) and use soft organic pads.

The tax man

Alek wrote: »

The downside is that you have no control over the initial lever throw, unless you resort to overfilling the reservoir which requires some skill and is not a officially recommended thing to do (TRP support may advise this it over email on case-by-case basis) I have done this and its much more to my liking.

I read up on their setup procedure and found my rear brake wasn't set correctly. Fairly straight forward to setup but like you say it's a fixed lever throw with little adjustment. Love the self centering aspect of these brakes, hope it's as good as they say. Must get some more info from you on the 16th.

nak

Compressionless cable housing greatly improves the TRP disc brakes.