Possible relocation to Cork - help please

Adena

I am just looking at possible areas to rent in Cork city, my criteria is as follows:

*child friendly area
*foreigner friendly (I'm English born)
*schools close by (kid is 5)
*good childminders/babysitter options for working hours
*maximum 30 minute walk from centre
*I'm thinking my max rent would be 800 euros per month

When looking at the above please take into account that I grew up on, and still live on, a very rough council estate so am not expecting to have posh neighbours, but at the same time I don't want my windows put in. Also, I don't drive so the max 30 minute walk is for easy access to the city for work (hoping I get some).

Someone recommended St. Lukes already, just looking at any other recommendations.

Ta.

By the way, if there is already a thread like this, then sorry but I couldn't see it.

pwurple

I'd say St Lukes or Blackpool.

Maybe Turners Cross or Ballintemple on the south side. Good bus services to those. Schools in all of them. English isn't going to be considered a foreigner by most people, don't worry about that one bit.

Most of Cork subarbs are compact enough, you'd never be too far by bus from the city center.

Do you know anyone living in the city already? Living near friends can be very handy for tips on the area.

Milly33

I was just going to say well there are lots of choices, Id say though and I don't mean anything bad but it can be a bit hard to get used to Blackpool or the North side unless you are from there..

Turners cross is quite handy bus routes, schools and you can walk into town.

Ballintemple then would be a little further out but nice area live there myself haha and if you need a babysitter Im free. Mondays - Tuesdays and weekends!!

Rents are debatable everywhere €800 I would say you would be lucky to find somewhere to that

ABajaninCork

I wouldn't say Blackpool's the greatest area. Prone to flooding, rough as sandpaper and the bus service isn't great either. It's a 20 minute walk to town, tops though. Parklands isn't too bad though.

I'm English as well, and live on the Northside. Plenty of good areas there - St Luke's as you know, Ballyvolane isn't far either and you can walk to town in 20 minutes. St Patrick's School seems to be the school of choice for my neighbours being only on Gardiner's Hill which is walking distance from Ballyvolane and St Luke's. There's also a preschool at the bottom of my estate which seems to be popular.

Gurranabraher, and Farranree are settled areas and close to town too, especially Gurranabraher which would be a 10-15 min walk in. Don't know about the schools in the area, but can ask the in-laws if you like!

Avoid Knocknaheeney, Hollyhill and Mayfield like the plague!

And I think Milly's right. You'd be very hard pushed to get somewhere decent for E800. Can you stretch to 850 or 900?? Much more choice and probably nicer properties.

And the Irish are usually nice to foreigners - Contrary to what you might have heard!!

Adena

Thanks for your replies everyone. I've set a rough limit of E800 because I'm not sure what kind of wage I can expect from an administrator position in Cork and for the first two years I wont be eligible for any help if things go wrong so I don't want to set myself up for ruin as soon as I get there. I don't mind a certain amount of roughing it until I get settled but obviously have my son to consider in this.

I have emailed a few employment agencies for advice on average wages but I have got only vague responses, but then they probably get loads of queries like that with people never following it up so I can't blame them. I will pop in to them next time I'm over for a visit and hopefully get more of a positive response then.

I am trying to save up at least £3,000 in the next year as a safety net, rent and deposit, but I am a natural worrier and need to set myself a careful budget.

I don't have any close friends in Cork, I am looking for a 100% fresh start and need to make sure I plan it as much as possible so my son isn't badly affected by the move.

As for babysitting/childminding, my son is school age so I would most likely need morning drop offs, afternoon pick ups until around 6pm in the term time then full days during the holidays.

ABajaninCork

Speaking from experience, agencies aren't much cop here. They not as professional as the ones at home, and that's saying something! Neither will they entertain you until you're actually in situ.

You ARE entitled to help from the state if you can prove you've paid stamp in the UK, by way of a P45/P60. Welfare will need to see that and check with the DWP in Newcastle before they pay you a penny!

£3k isn't a lot of money here and won't go far. I'd try to save at least 5...

Sorry to be so blunt, but I'm speaking from bitter experience.

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

Speaking from experience, agencies aren't much cop here. They not as professional as the ones at home, and that's saying something! Neither will they entertain you until you're actually in situ.

You ARE entitled to help from the state if you can prove you've paid stamp in the UK, by way of a P45/P60. Welfare will need to see that and check with the DWP in Newcastle before they pay you a penny!

£3k isn't a lot of money here and won't go far. I'd try to save at least 5...

Sorry to be so blunt, but I'm speaking from bitter experience.

Yeah, I will try and save more but £3,000 is the bare minimum. Saying that my time limit is next summer holidays as I would rather that my son started his new school at the start of the academic year, then at least, I hope, with all the kids settling in it won't be so difficult for him.

I have read on the Irish welfare website that you need to be living exclusively in Ireland for two years before getting any help, in work and out of work benefits. A lot of other people have told me that too. That even returning Irish are having a problem getting welfare help due to not having lived in the country for two years.

The rule is called the Habitual Residence Condition, I tried to add a link but I'm a newbie so I'm not allowed.

I think it was updated in recent years to make the criteria more rigid. I could be wrong, and I wouldn't mind at all if I was. Don't get me wrong, I plan to work but it's nice to know there is a safety net if things go wrong. How spoiled we are in the UK.

ABajaninCork

I know about the Habitual Residence. I married here though and had to provide marriage lines, rent book and even the ferry ticket to prove I'd cut all links to the UK. I still got help though.

And it's the same if not harder in the UK, believe it or not. AND the benefits are far less then you'd get here. Then again, the cost of living here is very high. Don't believe what The Sun says!!

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

I know about the Habitual Residence. I married here though and had to provide marriage lines, rent book and even the ferry ticket to prove I'd cut all links to the UK. I still got help though.

And it's the same if not harder in the UK, believe it or not. AND the benefits are far less then you'd get here. Then again, the cost of living here is very high. Don't believe what The Sun says!!

Well I live in hope that my journey won't be as hard as I thought it would be. People keep saying the living costs are more, but to be honest, I am low maintenance anyway. I don't need the latest phone, the designer clothes, I don't get my nails done or extensions in my hair. I grew up in a really rough area, with very little and the benefit of that is knowing I can survive on little, plus I've always worked for the last 15 years, apart from when I had my son. Mind you, I wouldn't turn down a lottery win all the same.

Do you mind if I ask how long you've been in Ireland?

ABajaninCork

Not at all. I've been here for six years. Had all the BS from recruiters before I moved, telling me I had great experience and would have no problem securing a role. Unfortunately, the recession hit just as I moved, and have not really worked (apart from a six month contract) since. Doesn't sit well with me as I too have always worked and have had decent jobs in the past. And no - I don't live large either, but still find prices here very expensive.

I hope things work out better for you. But you need to do your research VERY carefully, and go into this with your eyes wide open.

Why Cork though? It's a great place to live and bring up your children IMO, the people are brilliant but the job situation is grim. Dublin by all accounts is much better for jobs, but the rent and travel costs are hideous! (think London).

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

Not at all. I've been here for six years. Had all the BS from recruiters before I moved, telling me I had great experience and would have no problem securing a role. Unfortunately, the recession hit just as I moved, and have not really worked (apart from a six month contract) since. Doesn't sit well with me as I too have always worked and have had decent jobs in the past. And no - I don't live large either, but still find prices here very expensive.

I hope things work out better for you. But you need to do your research VERY carefully, and go into this with your eyes wide open.

Why Cork though? It's a great place to live and bring up your children IMO, the people are brilliant but the job situation is grim. Dublin by all accounts is much better for jobs, but the rent and travel costs are hideous! (think London).

I've a couple of uncles from Cork who sold it to me as a teen, but I visited last week and that only cemented it for me. Obviously I will have a few more visits before making a definite decision but I definitely want to move away from where I am now.

I went to Dublin too and hated it, too busy, as you say like London and it made me feel a little claustrophobic.

I love that in Cork you can always smell the sea, I'm sure that sounds silly - duh, Cork is next to the sea of course you can smell it. But I mean it seems clean in comparison to UK cities and the people were friendly, my son loved it. Obviously we did the "touristy" things, which is why I want to visit without my son in October to have a proper look around the place. I am determined to move and Cork is top of the list right now.

I'm sorry you don't seem to have had much luck. I hope things look up for you. Has your husband had the same trouble? (Again, if you don't mind me asking).

ABajaninCork

No, not really. But then, my husband is Irish!

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

No, not really. But then, my husband is Irish!

Aw, don't say that. I am a bit paranoid that my accent is going to put people off. I sound like something off of Eastenders, I'm from the South East and sound like it.

I opened an account with EBS before I got to Cork, for saving my money, and the girl there was really nice and friendly. She recommended <an employment agency> for office based work, I don't know what kind of work you were looking for but she seemed confident that they could help me. I emailed them last night so will see what they come back with next week.

ABajaninCork

NOOOOOO!!! HELL NO - NOT LA CREME!!

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

NOOOOOO!!! HELL NO - NOT

Wow, that was an experience. I'll see what they come back with anyway, but like in the UK, I'll be sending my CV to a few agencies anyway. Also, while my son is at school I'll have the time to bug them at will if necessary.

When you went to get a PS number (whatever it's called) did it take long and did you have to wait until you had it before you could apply for a job?

Rhys Essien

Adena wrote: »

Aw, don't say that. I am a bit paranoid that my accent is going to put people off. I sound like something off of Eastenders, I'm from the South East and sound like it.

Funny how you say that but Barbara Windsor's ancestors come from Cork.See here from 9:00 onwards.

Adena

Rhys Essien wrote: »

Funny how you say that but Barbara Windsor's ancestors come from Cork.See here from 9:00 onwards.

I saw that actually, but I'm no Barbara Windsor unfortunately, there are a lot of Irish in and around London and other big cities.. Tough old girl that she is. My family are from the North and Limerick, but can't say I'm particularly close to any of them. I'm sure this isn't the same as all Irish people, but they're a bit arsey with us "English" relatives. Like it's our fault our parents moved to England....

Adena

What's Blarney Road like? Is it crack central? The rents seem cheap there and there must be a reason.

ABajaninCork

Adena wrote: »

What's Blarney Road like? Is it crack central? The rents seem cheap there and there must be a reason.

Depends on which part. Up towards Shanakiel is quite nice, but if it's towards Shandon, avoid. It's not on the bus route either, although close enough to town.

ABajaninCork

See here. Without one, you can't do anything. You need to apply for one for your kid as well.

Milly33

I was just going to say no to Le Crème they are an awfull shower of muppets.
Never managed to get set up with them as after trying for 2 weeks never heard anything. Then I sent a public comment lets say on how hard it was to contact them. A girl rang me who was full of excuses, I asked her did she know what office admin did as they weren't very good at it, I had to force her off the call by hanging up as she kept going on and on..

Not to be putting you off the move, but tis tough enough finding work in Cork.. I have been searching for around 2 years now and still haven't got full time in admin anywho but then I kinda stay away from main city as I don't have the extra for parking..

With the lifestyle choice to, I would not be high maintenance either, don't do tans, do my own nails, cut my own hair, have a phone that just about works and tis tough going.. Everything is ridiculously priced..

Defo be savvy and keep an eye out for deals and watch the supermarkets to see who have deals on.. Aldi is my favourite for everything.I tried to shop in the Irish Stores but its a no brainer Aldi is much cheaper and Supervalue for some things

hoodwinked

have a look at wilton/bishopstown (can be a lot of students in certain estates in the area) and douglas (can have rough and posh area's as it is such a large suburb),

both areas are on bus routes that would have you in the city center in 10-20 minutes douglas has 2 or 3 bus routes that pass through the village...

school wise both area's have brilliant schools both primary and secondary.

Adena

ABajaninCork wrote: »

See . Without one, you can't do anything. You need to apply for one for your kid as well.

I've already looked into that but I haven't moved over yet and they want proof of Irish address so I will have to wait until I have actually moved. A shortcut wouldn't half come in handy but I wouldn't want to do anything dodgy.

Milly33 wrote: »

I was just going to say no to Le Crème they are an awfull shower of muppets.
Never managed to get set up with them as after trying for 2 weeks never heard anything. Then I sent a public comment lets say on how hard it was to contact them. A girl rang me who was full of excuses, I asked her did she know what office admin did as they weren't very good at it, I had to force her off the call by hanging up as she kept going on and on..

Not to be putting you off the move, but tis tough enough finding work in Cork.. I have been searching for around 2 years now and still haven't got full time in admin anywho but then I kinda stay away from main city as I don't have the extra for parking..

With the lifestyle choice to, I would not be high maintenance either, don't do tans, do my own nails, cut my own hair, have a phone that just about works and tis tough going.. Everything is ridiculously priced..

Defo be savvy and keep an eye out for deals and watch the supermarkets to see who have deals on.. Aldi is my favourite for everything.I tried to shop in the Irish Stores but its a no brainer Aldi is much cheaper and Supervalue for some things

I got some bits in Supervalue when I was visiting, got some nice cheap, comfy shoes from Dunnes too. I shop a fair bit in Aldi over here too. Is Tesco any good over there?

I'm seriously going to be screwed if I don't have a job when I get there. Really don't want to be dragging my son to another country just to be feeding him cheap crap and trying to dress him in hand me downs.

hoodwinked wrote: »

have a look at wilton/bishopstown (can be a lot of students in certain estates in the area) and douglas (can have rough and posh area's as it is such a large suburb),

both areas are on bus routes that would have you in the city center in 10-20 minutes douglas has 2 or 3 bus routes that pass through the village...

school wise both area's have brilliant schools both primary and secondary.

Thanks, I will have a look and see what I think. Some of the above has me a bit worried though.

ABajaninCork

I'm not a Tesco fan, I'm afraid. Was more of a Sainsbury/Waitrose/Asda gal. Never liked them at home, and find them very expensive here. I only shop there if they have any deals going...

Generally, I shop at Dunnes/Lidl/Aldi with the odd bits from M & S like fresh pasta which is great quality and reasonable. The English Market is great for bits as well.

On the bright side? Asda do deliver clothing and bedding here for far cheaper than you would buy here, and only costs £5 to deliver by courier. You could buy the little man's school clothes for half nothing and get them sent here.

I do a lot of online shopping as I find the prices here hideous. For anything that the supplier won't deliver here (which is quite a lot!) or wants to charge silly money for postage? Parcel Motel is your friend!.

BTW - If you think you have a strong SE accent, then you'd want to hear MY accent. Pure Sarf Lahndahn!! I find it funny. Most people think I'm African until I open my North & South!

Adena

Well, I am certainly getting a lot more useful advice here than I did the other place I asked.

I'm normally not a dressy type but I do like Accessorize earrings (who can afford gold and silver?) and was glad to see one of their shops near Merchants Quay.

I didn't mind Dunnes when I was over but the woman who served me was quite rude. Dismissive, didn't even look at me while she was serving me..... problems! Still, I like my shoes. E10 and they don't even hurts my feet a week later.

hoodwinked

well if it helps douglas has a marks and spencers, Tesco (these two are in the same shopping center) along with accessorize butchers and boutique shops, there is a dunnes in the village in the other center, this also has new look, sam mccauleys pharmacy, Boots pharmacy, sports shop, coffee shops, peter marks hairdressers...etc,

there is an aldi and supervalu very nearby in grange, just a 10 minute walk (up a hill unless you live on/up the hill or a bus every quarter of an hour), and a lidl will be going in to where the cinema is currently.

Adena

Wow, I didn't realise Douglas was so big. This agency <snip> the dreaded have come back and told me I can expect E25,000 upward with my experience (10 years admin/reception/customer service), so I've got something to work from budget wise. I'll pop in and see them in October when I get to Cork for a little visit.

I don't want to sound greedy but is there a fruit and veg market? In the UK I tend to go to these and only buy what I need so I don't waste anything - otherwise it doesn't get eaten and goes in the bin (I've dismissed M&S - I think that is out of my budget).

Knasher

Adena wrote: »

I don't want to sound greedy but is there a fruit and veg market?

In Douglas there would be the farmers market, but that is only for a few hours on Saturdays, I don't know if there is anything beyond that. In the city centre there is the English Market, which is open 6 days a week till about 6, and is pretty awesome. There is also a Saturday market on Cornmarket St.

Adena

Knasher wrote: »

In Douglas there would be the farmers market, but that is only for a few hours on Saturdays, I don't know if there is anything beyond that. In the city centre there is the English Market, which is open 6 days a week till about 6, and is pretty awesome. There is also a Saturday market on Cornmarket St.

Yeah, I like the English Market, it is quite varied and interesting.

clerk

Adena wrote: »

When looking at the above please take into account that I grew up on, and still live on, a very rough council estate so am not expecting to have posh neighbours, but at the same time I don't want my windows put in.

Not being smart but just in case you're serious even in the roughest part of Cork you wouldn't have your "windows put in".

There are loads of English people in Cork. They are all over the gaff. I couldn't see any issue that way. Loads of English people have Irish relatives and many of them have Irish parent or grandparents but were born in England or whatever. I used to work with an English lad with a Liverpool accent but his name was Gormley and his grandparents were from Mayo but he's in Cork now and his wife is English. Nobody will have any issue with your accent either in my opinion. Sure the emigration figures to the UK from Ireland in say the 1840s and then say for argument sakes the 1960s/70s and again now are massive. Lots of them have relatives in Ireland and a lot of them end up coming back for work, love or even to get away from England these Days.

Not renting myself so not sure which parts of the City you'd get a gaff in for €800 a Month. Would a small apartment be cheaper I wonder ? There are empty apartments all over the City after our tiger died in 2008.

Best of luck.

Adena

clerk wrote: »

Not being smart but just in case you're serious even in the roughest part of Cork you wouldn't have your "windows put in".

There are loads of English people in Cork. They are all over the gaff. I couldn't see any issue that way. Loads of English people have Irish relatives and many of them have Irish parent or grandparents but were born in England or whatever. I used to work with an English lad with a Liverpool accent but his name was Gormley and his grandparents were from Mayo but he's in Cork now and his wife is English. Nobody will have any issue with your accent either in my opinion. Sure the emigration figures to the UK from Ireland in say the 1840s and then say for argument sakes the 1960s/70s and again now are massive. Lots of them have relatives in Ireland and a lot of them end up coming back for work, love or even to get away from England these Days.

Not renting myself so not sure which parts of the City you'd get a gaff in for €800 a Month. Would a small apartment be cheaper I wonder ? There are empty apartments all over the City after our tiger died in 2008.

Best of luck.

Hi Clerk,

Thanks for your response. I am, as you mentioned, from an Irish family and just want to get out of England.

I recently visited Cork and only had two hostile episodes, everyone else was great. One was in a store, I went up to pay and the cashier smiled and said hello, I said hello back and asked to buy the items I had (I even said please) and her face dropped, her nose went in the air, and she turned away from me for the rest of the transaction grunting goodbye as I left. The other was a bloke at a tourist attraction looked at my son's short, which had little union jacks on and said "this is Cork you know", so I just ignored him.

I would consider an apartment no problem (I don't think I'll ever get used to calling them anything other than flats verbally), so long as they don't mind a child living in there, and I would need two bedrooms.

BTW, no offense but I hope Gormley was his last name.