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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Jaysus, surprising that it's not a diesel :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭dmaprelude


    Just a small service on a normal car :)

    Fuel filter was handy, plugs were mostly easy just the rears had extra stuff to remove to access

    Cleaned the battery tray drain too as it was clogged

    More small bits and bobs to do :)

    300zx :) nice! have one myself


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,866 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    dmaprelude wrote: »
    300zx :) nice! have one myself

    Yaaaaaaay more than just me! Yours a twin turbo? :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 149 ✭✭dmaprelude


    Yaaaaaaay more than just me! Yours a twin turbo? :D

    It is indeed :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭bmstuff


    Steering wheel retrimmed and M5 mirrors retrofitted...

    wheel1.jpg
    wheel2.jpg
    wheel3.jpg
    wheel4.jpg
    mirror1.jpg
    mirror2.jpg


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 26,658 ✭✭✭✭OldMrBrennan83


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Just curious how is the metal skin removed?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Yet another wheelbearing on the cmax, I can do them inside 2 hours now. It can be done faster, but its very important to clean every tiny bit and bolt as you go along, or next time you'll be at it a minimum of 4 to 6 hours.
    And the hose from the intercooler to the air intake has split, so that's next on the list.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭Roger Mellie Man on the Telly


    Replaced rear wiper motor.

    Soldered low brake pad warning wires together to switch off dash light.

    Opened up xenon headlamp with heat gun to glue broken projector shroud in place.

    Topped up all fluids and checked tyre pressures.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Replaced rear wiper motor.

    Soldered low brake pad warning wires together to switch off dash light.

    Opened up xenon headlamp with heat gun to glue broken projector shroud in place.

    Topped up all fluids and checked tyre pressures.

    Great days work. Fair play.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Yesterday's purchase:

    372755.jpg

    'twill be alright for a year, hopefully. :D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Is that on right now? Will have to get myself down there. Been running that stuff for ages now in my car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users




  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Is that on right now? Will have to get myself down there. Been running that stuff for ages now in my car.

    Traffic on the Ballysimon rd is ridiculous.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 86,203 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    GDY151


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Yesterday's purchase:



    'twill be alright for a year, hopefully. :D

    Were OPEC on the phone to you afterwards :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,719 ✭✭✭Hal1


    They will be trying to sell you shares next :). Did halfords throw in a fuel filter at least :?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,657 ✭✭✭CIP4


    I'm struggling to see the logic behind buying 10 bottles just because they were cheap I mean if you change the car it may not take that grade oil and unless your doing insane mileage or servicing the car every 2k miles I can't see the point only my opinion though. But to me a year supply would have been enough to buy considering its on sale at least once a year. Great price the oil in saying all that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Engine burns 0.75l of oil a week. Changing a car is not an option. And nobody would make an engine rebuild even for a 5 years worth of oil.

    So that's simple maths. :]


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,657 ✭✭✭CIP4


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Engine burns 0.75l of oil a week. Changing a car is not an option. And nobody would make an engine rebuild even for a 5 years worth of oil.

    So that's simple maths. :]

    Ah ok makes a lot more sense now. I never even considered the car burning oil sorry. I've never experienced it so would forget and only think of oil as being used during services. My bad :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,719 ✭✭✭Hal1


    That's a fair drop of the black stuff. Although it's something I have to keep an eye on now too. What would be the best way to cure oil burn though, replace piston oil rings? I know it wouldn't be an economic repair option and would easily be equal to the value of an old family runabout car.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    At least oil rings. But, as I mentioned, it's too expensive. And unfortunately I've not enough experience (not enough patience either) to DIY that. Ahh, no facility either - all I do, I do under the open skies, so very weather dependant, if you know what I mean. :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,678 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    joujoujou wrote: »
    At least oil rings. But, as I mentioned, it's too expensive. And unfortunately I've not enough experience (not enough patience either) to DIY that. Ahh, no facility either - all I do, I do under the open skies, so very weather dependant, if you know what I mean. :o
    Its a pita working outside this time of year.
    Its usually the piston oil drain holes that give trouble on those, I have seen plenty of them where they just gummed up solid and thats what causes the oil consumption issues.
    There was at least 3 revisions of the piston to correct the too small and too few oil hole problem, the later ones have massive holes compared to the early ones and a lot more as well.
    If I was gong down that road, I'd be putting in new 1ZZ pistons/rings/rods/crankshaft and making it a 1.8.
    That series 1ZZ 3ZZ and 4ZZ were modular engines as the bore is all the same @79mm but the stroke is different.
    2ZZ is a different beast.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    If I was able to, I'd go the same route. :)

    Apart from all the bits you mentioned, injectors, camshafts, exhaust and fuel pump must be swapped as well (read it somewhere). And it's highly recommended to upgrade front brakes to stop such a beasht. ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    This weather is horrible. It's wet and gets dark so quick. Without a garage it's a pain to do anything. At least I got my dash cam wiring hidden today.

    23399569103_fae6ebd901_b.jpg

    24000240856_2568bfcd29_b.jpg

    23943790411_323f5ec65f_b.jpg


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,620 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Well, over the last week I put in a new rear wheel bearing, patched up the hose from the intercooler to the air intake, put in a new idler gear for the fan belt (wheel has to come off and wheel arch liner has to come out) and had a rear tire patched. The old Dieselselbstzünderdirekteinspritzungabgasturbienenpersonenkraftwagen is ready for another few million kilometers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,678 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    joujoujou wrote: »
    If I was able to, I'd go the same route. :)

    Apart from all the bits you mentioned, injectors, camshafts, exhaust and fuel pump must be swapped as well (read it somewhere). And it's highly recommended to upgrade front brakes to stop such a beasht. ;)
    Nothing else apart from Rods/pistons and Crank/bearings needs changing, same injectors cam and exhaust all standard and work fine.
    Maybe brakes might be a good thing at the same time but the rest is not necessary.
    Valve lift and timing is the same, the 1.8 pistons are shorter than the 1.4 so no interference and the compression ratio is kept standard.
    If you use 1.6 or 1.4 pistons they have a higher gudgeon to crown height and make the compression ratio too high for normal running.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Injectors are not the same, that's what I'm sure about. 4ZZ/3ZZ are grey, 1ZZ - green. 4ZZ and 3ZZ comes with 180ccm and 1ZZ is 260ccm.

    4ZZ and 3ZZ camshafts are the same (13501-22060), 1ZZ different (13501-22041), but I wouldn't insist that significantly enough to be replaced. ;)

    Although the whole argument is pointless, as I'm not gonna go swap anyway. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,678 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Injectors are not the same, that's what I'm sure about. 4ZZ/3ZZ are grey, 1ZZ - green. 4ZZ and 3ZZ comes with 180ccm and 1ZZ is 260ccm.

    4ZZ and 3ZZ camshafts are the same (13501-22060), 1ZZ different (13501-22041), but I wouldn't insist that significantly enough to be replaced. ;)

    Although the whole argument is pointless, as I'm not gonna go swap anyway. :D
    No argument just discussion.:) You are correct regarding the injectors etc, what I am saying is that the stock injectors work fine, they don't need to be changed to the green ones, car will still run fine and produce decent power and torque compared to the standard 4ZZ.
    That's why its such a simple mod. just plug and play.
    Forget ECU reprogramming and all that stuff just displacement increase.
    The standard 4ZZ is not a bad engine on its own, even today its quite a nice drive for a NA 1.4.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,243 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    No argument just discussion.:) You are correct regarding the injectors etc, what I am saying is that the stock injectors work fine, they don't need to be changed to the green ones, car will still run fine and produce decent power and torque compared to the standard 4ZZ.
    True, true. :)
    CJhaughey wrote: »
    That's why its such a simple mod. just plug and play.
    I wanted to do even more simple mod - 1ZZ intake manifold + throttle body. Not very plug and play, as there's not enough room between manifold and radiator (and few other minor issues to deal with). Failed due to our lovely weather. deszcz.gif
    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Forget ECU reprogramming and all that stuff just displacement increase.
    True again. Aside of that, heard that toyota's ECUs are not easy to fiddle with. Open to corrections though.
    CJhaughey wrote: »
    The standard 4ZZ is not a bad engine on its own, even today its quite a nice drive for a NA 1.4.
    Not bad at all, except famous oil burning thing until mid 2005. :D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    While we're on the topic, I have 4 x 1.4 vvti injectors from an 04 Corolla sitting in the top of my toolbox. They were left over from an engine change I did on the sisters yoke a couple of years ago. Free to a good home.


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