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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,875 ✭✭✭Foxhole Norman


    Everyone likes new parts! Got it for €140 instead of the usual €180 or so that they go for.

    20151008_181449_zpscqfwxfma.jpg

    OE Hella Tail Light to replace the old Depo leaky one. Depo:

    20151008_181530_zpsdwtwcnsr.jpg

    You can see the water in this photo!

    20151008_181623_zpsiharsuni.jpg

    The new:

    20151008_181523_zpswxx2bdtm.jpg

    Finally have two working rear clusters again:

    20151008_183743_zpscsr3sui6.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 894 ✭✭✭Dale Parish


    I take it the connector was stuck to the housing? :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,875 ✭✭✭Foxhole Norman


    I take it the connector was stuck to the housing? :D

    Oh christ Yeah! Welded to the connector with rust it was!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    Water in tail light? You mean blinker fluid right?! :D

    Looks great though! The E39 has aged really well :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,875 ✭✭✭Foxhole Norman


    5W30 wrote: »
    Water in tail light? You mean blinker fluid right?! :D

    Looks great though! The E39 has aged really well :)

    Sound, happy with her now, another few weeks and she should be tip top again :)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    Did the crankshaft seal and timing belt (idler pulley, tensioner and belt) today on the XC90.

    Cracked the crankshaft nut loose in about 5 seconds flat with this bad boy:
    qtzLlX2.jpg

    Yes, that's 4x 125mm extensions. Didn't have 1 long extension :pac:

    The leaking culprit:
    Emdedk6.jpg

    I didn't have a seal puller so I drilled a small hole, screwed in a wood screw and pulled it with pliers. This way I didn't damage the walls the the seal... seals with a flat head screwdriver.

    New seal in:
    dBF14Bg.jpg

    The whole mess:
    AIjRLs1.jpg

    I put the new timing belt in, cam pulley was 1 tooth out. I must have pulled it when tensioning one side of the belt by hand. Took the timing belt off just at the cam, rotated the cam 1 tooth, put the belt back on. Turned the crank twice and everything lined up.

    I was p*ssing myself when I had to start it back up but it started great and ran like a dream. Job done :D

    Not a bad experience for a first belt.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭brianregan09


    I was going to post that I changed the boot struts on my new Astra but after seeing some of the stuff you guys have done ..I feel embarassed now lol


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    I was going to post that I changed the boot struts on my new Astra but after seeing some of the stuff you guys have done ..I feel embarassed now lol

    No need to feel embarrassed. I like this thread because it's cool to see what people are doing and how they're doing it.

    Especially pics :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    5W30 wrote: »
    No need to feel embarrassed. I like this thread because it's cool to see what people are doing and how they're doing it.

    Especially pics :pac:

    Pics should be mandatory when posting in this thread.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭brianregan09


    Having a go at the radio next week so I will take pics :)


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    GvidoR wrote: »
    Pics should be mandatory when posting in this thread.

    I have been guilty of no pics, but sometimes when you're crawling around under the car at 11:00 PM on a weekday night, that's the last thing on your mind when you just want to get the auld sh*tebucket running again. :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,316 ✭✭✭lafors


    Going to change the oil on the 6er tomorrow. Fecking thing takes 8 litres! Of castrol edge no less....it'll be the most expensive oil change I've ever done. Luckily the lad in the shop said to me when i bought 10L 'you have a big enough pan for catching that?' Could have been messy. So got another 6L catcher. I'll put up pics when i do it though I'm sure it'll be the same as any other oil change.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    lafors wrote: »
    Going to change the oil on the 6er tomorrow. Fecking thing takes 8 litres! Of castrol edge no less...

    Buh? What exactly takes 8 litres??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 694 ✭✭✭5W30


    lafors wrote: »
    Going to change the oil on the 6er tomorrow. Fecking thing takes 8 litres! Of castrol edge no less....it'll be the most expensive oil change I've ever done. Luckily the lad in the shop said to me when i bought 10L 'you have a big enough pan for catching that?' Could have been messy. So got another 6L catcher. I'll put up pics when i do it though I'm sure it'll be the same as any other oil change.

    Doing an oil change on the Volvo too tomorrow. Need to get a 36 mm socket for the oil filter housing though.

    First car in my hands where the oil filter is an insert-type and not a whole unit by itself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,316 ✭✭✭lafors


    5W30 wrote: »
    Doing an oil change on the Volvo too tomorrow. Need to get a 36 mm socket for the oil filter housing though.

    First car in my hands where the oil filter is an insert-type and not a whole unit by itself.

    Same here, insert type, went with the OE one from BMW themselves, if I'm going to break the dealer stamp history at least I'll have their OE equipment and receipts.
    jimgoose wrote: »
    Buh? What exactly takes 8 litres??

    645ci. It's the N62B44 engine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    lafors wrote: »
    Same here, insert type, went with the OE one from BMW themselves, if I'm going to break the dealer stamp history at least I'll have their OE equipment and receipts.



    645ci. It's the N62B44 engine.

    Ah. Big hairy-bollocked V8. Job.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,316 ✭✭✭lafors


    Well did the oil change today, learnt a few things.
    Firstly there is nowhere to put in axle stands. Looking online most seemed to be putting them under the jacking points at either side, so i just lifted it one side at a time and put back down on solid blocks. Not much room underneath but enough to just about slide in/out.
    Second, whomever put the sump nut on last time does not know what a specified torque setting is! Took an age to get off. Just kept giving it sharp tugs and used a 2ft extender bar (read pipe) onto the end of my torque wrench rather than constant pressure to try not wring the nut. Eventually got it off without damaging it.
    After that it was plain sailing. Took the car out there and it just seems to be running lovely now, maybe just my imagination but I'm happy.

    IMG_20151010_153246_zps88oj6jyq.jpg
    IMG_20151010_165750_zpstakejsod.jpg
    IMG_20151010_165756_zpssh62kh6o.jpg
    IMG_20151010_170249_zpsxeb2rdoz.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,384 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Not being arsey but - Just on the torque wrench - they're not meant for loosening things.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,316 ✭✭✭lafors


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Not being arsey but - Just on the torque wrench - they're not meant for loosening things.

    Yeah it wasn't a torque wrench, it was a socket wrench, just a typo.
    You can see it in the first pic.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,221 ✭✭✭pablo128


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Not being arsey but - Just on the torque wrench - they're not meant for loosening things.
    Well I've a good long handled one (2 foot long) that I use for everything, from hub nuts to wheel nuts and everything in between. I wouldn't try to torque anything with it though. There's not a chance it's any way accurate after that kind of use. I have a good one safe in a fancy case for torqueing stuff.;)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Did all of this work last June, but only getting around to it now, seeing as I have 5 minutes to myself. Started the car in gear, jumped forward, hitting a rockery, and knocking a notch out of the bumper. Left a nasty surface. Basically, a quick run down of what I did: Sanded the area, filled with isopon, realised the splitter and fog light needed to come out to do it properly, sanded it all back, taped the area off, primed it, sprayed it (Halfords spray can, colour code mixed), and a few coats of lacquer. My lacquer skills never were the best, and so it appears a bit hazy in spots, but sure it'll do me! Unless you went looking for it, you wouldn't really spot it. I'm happy with my results anyway!

    bhi4z.jpg

    28rdt9z.jpg

    335fn8o.jpg

    212fzx4.jpg

    2ed6y53.jpg

    302xfza.jpg

    2n7ei53.jpg

    oa4zfp.jpg

    2h8796e.jpg

    207voxv.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    That is quite impressive for a repair especially at that point with the fog light an all. Did you have fun fitted the scuff panel trim back on? :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    Great work Noccy!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,879 ✭✭✭cletus


    I've a bit of paint touch up to do myself. What's the blue tape your using for masking. I was just gonna use normal masking tape


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Hal1 wrote:
    That is quite impressive for a repair especially at that point with the fog light an all. Did you have fun fitted the scuff panel trim back on?

    Stop, it's a nightmare, couldn't get it to click back into place. Had to use a vice grips to force it to click back into place all the way along! I remember when I bought the thing at the beginning of the year I couldn't for the life of me get it on. Car was at the main dealers soon after, so I said I'd ask them to put it on. Their faces drained when I asked them, they knew the craic with them! They got it on anyway, but advised me it was just about on. Stayed on since, so all is good.
    cletus wrote:
    I've a bit of paint touch up to do myself. What's the blue tape your using for masking. I was just gonna use normal masking tape

    It's stuff I have for wood. It has less aggressive adhesive, so it won't pull the fibres up on wood surfaces. Was in the toolbox, so I fcuked it on. In this case it wouldn't really make a difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    Had a spare whatever you call it from a jack that someone had thrown out. Welded a bit of heavy gauge pipe to it to fairly safely give it a few inches of extra lift height. The bolt is in case the weld fails. I can swap between the 2 quickly but it's usually easier to just use a scissor jack to raise the car a bit if need be.

    2IO1Sr2l.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,384 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    No offence, but I wouldn't trust that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    No offence, but I wouldn't trust that.

    Would not be anywhere near it.
    At best it needs a diagonal brace, the force of the car doesn't act straight down so that will be very unsteady and depending on the weld etc could snap under the pressure rather easily.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    none taken.

    Twas here I got the idea

    P1712104.JPG
    http://www.irishautoparts.ie/single-part.aspx?PartNumber=P1712104

    I obviously wouldn't be getting under it as I'm jacking it up or without jack stands. And imo if it was to snap it wouldn't do so without warning.

    But obviously not trying to convince anyone else to do the same thing :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,830 ✭✭✭RandomAccess


    All the talk of emissions got me noticing the Diesel fumes while driving in Dublin so I ordered a new cabin filter, MAHLE activated carbon.

    Obviously it's not going to keep everything out but no harm trying.

    Elon Musks unveil of the Model X SUV showed they use some pretty extreme sized filters.


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