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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 73,384 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I'd fil it up if I was getting it that cheap


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    What would you do in this situation:...

    3.40 per rood, eh? Is that in the Americky?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,575 ✭✭✭166man


    jimgoose wrote: »
    3.40 per rood, eh? Is that in the Americky?

    Im currently paying about $2.12 per gallon at the moment....:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    166man wrote: »
    Im currently paying about $2.12 per gallon at the moment....:D

    for fuel with a mid 80's octane rating :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    for fuel with a mid 80's octane rating :P

    <HARRUMPH> RON vs. AKI?? :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,575 ✭✭✭166man


    for fuel with a mid 80's octane rating :P

    Car runs just fine on it! I reckon I'll be filling it tomorrow so I'm going to buy the super unleaded for the craic and see what, if any, the difference is.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    I guess it's designed to run on it :P

    $2.12 is reasonable. we were in NY there last month and it was around the $2.35-$2.40 area for something like 83 or 85RON; which I guess is still cheap :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    I guess it's designed to run on it :P

    $2.12 is reasonable. we were in NY there last month and it was around the $2.35-$2.40 area for something like 83 or 85RON; which I guess is still cheap :pac:

    You think?

    €0.55-€0.56 per litre. :eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭LawlessBoy


    Going to be tackling the track rod ends on my passat soon anyone any advice before I do it? Is a torque wrench essential?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭LawlessBoy


    wonski wrote: »
    Easy. I know you did it anyway:D

    Bring it up to 34.02.

    34.03 if it is your first visit there. Pretend you know nothing about 0.3 outstanding;)

    Do go over a lot higher than that in my local garage nothing ever said :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    @ LawlessBoy: They screw on the tie rod though :confused:. What you need is a fork type tool that separates the ball joint thingy. Then apply heat and use a big wrench (pipe or grips) to unscrew it. Oh and count the threads until you get an alignment done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Hal1 wrote: »
    @ LawlessBoy: They screw on the tie rod though :confused:. What you need is a fork type tool that separates the ball joint thingy. Then apply heat and use a big wrench (pipe or grips) to unscrew it. Oh and count the threads until you get an alignment done.


    I think he means the inner. They normally have a torque setting. Tight as you can with a drop of locktite.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    This?

    RLR3059-FY-Map1.jpg


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Hal1 wrote: »
    This?

    RLR3059-FY-Map1.jpg

    I replaced one of those on my CMax, the biggy, roundy end (I'm a tech, me!) did not have those little cut-outs, so was entirely round. I just gripped it with a massive plumber's pliers I have (3 foot long) and wrenched it as tight as anyhow possible. :cool:
    The steering hasn't fallen apart yet...

    On a related note, does anyone know the torque figure for the bolts holding on the rear hubs of a CMax?
    I got my brake backing plates and they will have to be done over the weekend.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Hal1 wrote: »
    This?

    :confused:

    Ha feckin reading it again he does say track rod end. A torque wrech might be handy for the locking nut on the tapered bit that goes into the hub. If you over tighten it it might never come out again. Not essential though, just use a normal spanner to tighten a new locking nut and don't go mad, be grand.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Inner tie rod end hmm, still an occasional knock on mine. Maybe they need changing since the front end was practically rebuilt. My mechanic is like well I didn't hear anything so it's graannnd. Well feck you I'll do it myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Hal1 wrote: »
    Inner tie rod end hmm, still an occasional knock on mine. Maybe they need changing since the front end was practically rebuilt. My mechanic is like well I didn't hear anything so it's graannnd. Well feck you I'll do it myself.


    Changed them in a 6n polo before with one of these lads. Handy enough but some cars will be a alot worse for access. It does tighten up the steering nicely. Car was near undrivable afterwards though the steering was that out of line. Had to get the string out to get it to the allignment shop.

    $T2eC16VHJIgFHR2WJHHNBR5-qRd-sg~~60_35.JPG

    My own focus gives a bit of a knock if you turn the wheel sharply when your parked up. Was thinking inners myself. NCT in a bit so I'll how it goes through that first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭LawlessBoy


    Its only the ends id be doing lads, the bit that actually turns down with a castle nut on it. Watched a Chris fix video looked easy enough to do so I'll see how it goes the weekend


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 26,658 ✭✭✭✭OldMrBrennan83


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,384 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Did oil changes in the Yaris and civic today,
    Yaris is so quick to do, you can get at the oil filter by putting your hand in through the front panel,don't even need to jack it up to get the sump plug off.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    The Yaris is so high you can get under it without jacking it up? Or you drove onto a kerb or something?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    GvidoR wrote: »
    The Yaris is so high you can get under it without jacking it up? Or you drove onto a kerb or something?

    Merc C class is like that, don't even have to get under it to change the oil. Slide the pan under the sump, reach down into the engine bay and off with the bung, plenty of room to swing a breaker bar. A few seconds :D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    GvidoR wrote: »
    The Yaris is so high you can get under it without jacking it up? Or you drove onto a kerb or something?

    Or he's very slim...


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Merc C class is like that, don't even have to get under it to change the oil. Slide the pan under the sump, reach down into the engine bay and off with the bung, plenty of room to swing a breaker bar. A few seconds :D

    Curse the CMax for that! Filter and sump plug are on the wrong side of the engine, facing the bulkhead with zero access from the top.
    Has to be jacked up, 2 axle stands either side, undertray removed and crawl into the darkest recesses of the engine bay. And no room for any kind of oil filter wrench, you need to eat your spinach before wrenching off the oil filter with your bare hands.
    He MX5, if I was feeling lazy I'd stick in the oil pump and undo the filter under the inlet manifold, hey presto, 5 minute oil change.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    OK, to make NCT man happy, I had to put new splash guards in behind the rear brake discs. Of course these things never go according to plan.
    One bolt stripped it's head as I was undoing it and what followed was 4 or 5 hours solid of crawling underneat, drilling the bolt, crawling out when I couldn't hold the drill anymore (lousy Lidl drillbits, wouldn't cut through a block of butter), bashing it from the other side, hoping it'll bend or snap, going at it with a crowbar (which actually broke a tooth), hammering in screwdrivers (also a name for F1 groupies) to create a gap and finally managing to slip in a hacksaw blade and slowly cutting the bolt over half an hour.
    The exact same sh*t that happened last time, basically.
    Once everything was out, I noticed that the discs (orignal) were in absolute sh*t and had to be replaced, as well as the pads.
    That was annoying, because were it not for the fact that only one single pad had worn to the metal and the others were still 50%, I could have gotten away with it.
    And a wheelbearing is already grumbling, but it was not in the budget this time, so I am already looking forward to doing all this sh*t again within the next 6 months or so. :mad:

    363131.jpg

    As it was

    363133.jpg

    All new and shiny

    363132.jpg

    Seriously, I don't know what they mean, rusty. There's barely a mark on it, I can't tell which one's which!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭Ded_Zebra


    That sucks that they did you for those. I've passed with much worse. Unfortunately that's the way it goes when something is left to interpretation.

    Look on the bright side, they're shiny and new now!:)


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Keep an eye out in Lidl for one of these dr.fuzz. The best tenner I ever spent. Saved a lot of blood, sweat and tears from bastardin rusty bolts like that.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Keep an eye out in Lidl for one of these dr.fuzz. The best tenner I ever spent. Saved a lot of blood, sweat and tears from bastardin rusty bolts like that.

    The problem is, the CMax has star head bolts holding the hubs on. And those bolts are deep within a suspension component.
    I put the wrench in, turned, head mashed. Totally fcuked. Nothing would ever grip it again. You cannot get a tool in there, so all the heat in the world (unless you melt the bolt) will not help you there.
    Once that happens you could drill the head of the bolt till it falls off, but my fcuking sh*t drills aren't up to the job or pull or bash and pry the hub, bending and stretching the bolt and trying to get a hacksaw blade in and cut the bolt. So as usual, my problem being lack of proper tools.
    However, I have purchased a new complete set of bolts from Ford and was very careful when tightening them. So when I do replace the wheel bearing in the near future, I should not be facing this problem.
    Anyone who is thinking about changing the rear hubs on a Focus or CMax (and I'm sure a lot of other Fords using that suspension setup), you will need a complete set of new bolts and have a good set of drillbits handy that can make short work of the heads of those bolts, because it's not a question of if the bolts will seize and strip, but more of how many.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 16,635 ✭✭✭✭dr.fuzzenstein


    Right, retest booked, this Wednesday at half past 4 in Limmers.
    Was already informed that a visual inspection isn't good enough, they will have to put my car through the full brake test again, since replacing the splash shields involved taking apart the rear brakes. We can already see where the potential problems lie with that, so let's hope my brakes work as described. They certainly feel OK.
    I friggin' hate the NCT, but it's gotta be done. And I don;t think it's a scam, I've seen cars in ireland before the NCT. Rustholes, crabbing sideways, lights looking for birds in the trees, lights half filled with water, cracked windscreens on every 3rd car, smokescreens, oil leaks, my favourite, the famous blue baling twine as a strucural repair, I could go on for some time.

    Maybe this time I should leave a 50 in the ashtray. 50 cent. :p


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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Right, retest booked, this Wednesday at half past 4 in Limmers.
    Was already informed that a visual inspection isn't good enough, they will have to put my car through the full brake test again, since replacing the splash shields involved taking apart the rear brakes. We can already see where the potential problems lie with that, so let's hope my brakes work as described. They certainly feel OK.
    I friggin' hate the NCT, but it's gotta be done. And I don;t think it's a scam, I've seen cars in ireland before the NCT. Rustholes, crabbing sideways, lights looking for birds in the trees, lights half filled with water, cracked windscreens on every 3rd car, smokescreens, oil leaks, my favourite, the famous blue baling twine as a strucural repair, I could go on for some time.

    Maybe this time I should leave a 50 in the ashtray. 50 cent. :p

    I'll be driving past just after a work. Finish at 4:30 and work about 16 seconds away from the place. I'll keep an eye out in the car park :D


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