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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    You chose wrong car. :p


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭maceocc2


    My E38 740i almost suffered a fatality on Friday. Drive belt popped off the water pump pulley on the motorway, powersteering, alternator and water pump died, not the worst thing, but when I managed to get the pump out to replace it, I seen what actually happened:

    20141115_224513_zpszpwinlif.jpg

    All set with a new one now, first time doing it, 8 hours all in, such a tough job to get it out.

    20141115_224738_zpseazkrtqh.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    Very same thing happened on the astra, except it's on the timing belt and locked it up.
    So got it going after a head skim, 4 valves, pump and a belt :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Why did the impeller shearing cause the belt to jump off? Was the new part plastic too?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    When the impeller broke off it caught someway inside the pump housing and managed to make the belt jump timing!
    Just mad unlucky I was :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,350 ✭✭✭Mar4ix


    heater matrix out :)

    6te1jAO.jpg

    No idea how I will manage get everything back , but ... well , will take it easy , no rush :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    I fecking hate taking dashes out. There is nothing more annoying!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,350 ✭✭✭Mar4ix


    YbFocus wrote: »
    I fecking hate taking dashes out. There is nothing more annoying!

    Passat is a cynt to take heater matrix out ... worse ever car to do such work ...


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭maceocc2


    Interslice wrote: »
    Why did the impeller shearing cause the belt to jump off? Was the new part plastic too?

    New one is steel, the plastic one was BMW OEM believe it or not.

    It sheered off because the bearings failed, when the bearings failed the pulley started jumping around off center.

    I noticed the bearings making noise the night before but felt I had plenty of time, car had been parked up for a long time so possibly sped up the impending failure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,160 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    So I've done a few small bits and pieces to our car since we got it, but didn't want to go too mad until it had properly passed or failed its NCT which would determine whether or not it would stay. I'm sure I posted the other changes in this thread along the way.

    So it passed its re-test on Thursday (having originally failed for passenger headlight alignment) so armed with 13 months test it'll be staying with us and will probably have a bit more money spent on it. :cool:

    Today was a case of "out with the old - in with the new (secondhand ;) )"

    First up was to swap out the single-din Kenwood dvd player with a double-din sporting built-in bluetooth (the reason for changing) and built-in sat-nav (a bonus that I wasn't necessarily looking for). Took about an hour and a half but no blood and no shorted wires so I'm happy enough at that. Space was a bit of a tight squeeze - will try get photos of that later.

    Next up was to replace the existing strut brace with a differently designed STI version. As can be seen in the pic it was a bit too tight, rubbing slightly on the passenger side. The replacement clears it easily and hopefully paves the way for me to fit the upgraded STI intercooler in due course.

    Before:

    328584.jpg

    A bit too tight:

    328585.jpg

    Much better:

    328586.jpg

    6 nuts + 10 mins = job done :)

    Arsed about then waiting for it to start getting duller before attempting todays third change - replacement headlights! Waiting for it to get duller was so I could check the existing beam off a wall in case the new lights needed adjusting. Since it only passed the test Thursday after the headlights had been aligned I knew the beam should be correct ;)

    Another 10 min job - this time 6 screws to be undone and replaced. While I was at it I swapped over the new Philips X-tremevision +130% bulbs that I'd sourced from PowerBulbs.com last week.

    Old:

    328587.jpg

    New(er) crystal style:

    328588.jpg

    Now the only problem is - do they look ok with the older style sidelights/fog lights/indicators? Or do I need to upgrade those to crystal style too? I like the crystal headlights, can take or leave the crystal fogs, but I'm really not a huge fan of the crystal sidelights and indicators.

    Might leave the final decision on this one to my wife :D

    Possibly tackle the intercooler swap next weekend (already have the STI one sitting in the house for the last few weeks :o )


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,138 ✭✭✭Stallingrad


    maceocc2 wrote: »
    New one is steel, the plastic one was BMW OEM believe it or not.

    It sheered off because the bearings failed, when the bearings failed the pulley started jumping around off center.

    I noticed the bearings making noise the night before but felt I had plenty of time, car had been parked up for a long time so possibly sped up the impending failure.

    You were lucky the impeller didn't shatter, first lesson of buying an old BMW: replace water pump with metal impeller version on day 1.


  • Registered Users Posts: 201 ✭✭gerardk55


    @Top Dog I think the sidelights need to be changed too, I think you can get away with the fog's and idicators though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Throttle body and ISCV cleanup by jou. The photostory. :D

    There's no pictures of removal/refitting as work's been done upon a spare one which will be swapped tomorrow or Thursday (if weather let me do so).

    4 screws keeping ISCV on a throttle body removed - it's not easy as they're tight. Very good PH2 screwdriver necessary.

    ISCV itself below. Make sure you make a mark indicating how elements are located against each other to avoid adjustment later.

    328845.jpg

    ISCV controller is fitted using special screws (5-spoke Torx). If you don't have a tool to undo them, make slots (by hacksaw) and use flat-ended screwdriver.

    328846.jpg

    Dirty ISCV (and close-up).

    328847.jpg328848.jpg

    After 320 sandpaper:

    328849.jpg

    To be continued...


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    ISCV gasket - old vs. new.

    328850.jpg

    Make sure valve is turning very easily, put a few drops of oil on a bearing eventually.

    Before reassembling 2 parts of ISCV make sure the tab is located as below (not my photo):

    328855.jpg

    New, stainless screws, typical 6-spoke Torx this time:

    328856.jpg

    Now, the throttle body itself. Intake/carburettor spray and a lot of compressed air used, although something else must be done anyway.

    Throttle body where it meets intake manifold. Before and after:

    328857.jpg328859.jpg

    To be continued...


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Last one.

    Throttle body, where it meets ISCV, before and close-up:

    328860.jpg328861.jpg

    And after:

    328862.jpg

    Finally, all assembled together. New, stainless bolts used:

    328863.jpg

    The End. :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Alu and stainless? Hope you used copper grease.

    Few weeks it's like you welded them in


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Nope. I used lithium grease. :)

    You think copper would make it better?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Nope. I used lithium grease. :)

    You think copper would make it better?

    I dont know being honest. That's what copper grease was designed for.

    You be amazed how hard they are to remove if you assemble your gsxr calipers and forget to use copper on the new stainless bolts and 6 months later spend ages getting them out again to do the pot seals.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    I think either will do once they won't be in there on there own :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    What does ISCV stand for?

    I found a similar setup on the car for heating the throttle body and disconnected it. No controller though, just plumbed directly into the coolant system.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Interslice wrote: »
    What does ISCV stand for?

    [...]
    Idle Speed Control Valve. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Idle Speed Control Valve. :)

    Ah right! Thought it was something to do with the coolant feed :o. Long day...


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    No problem. :)

    I also thought about disconnecting throttle body heating as it increases performance (slightly). But I'm aware that it can make throttle body freezing in certain circumstances so probably won't do that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    They have a habit of getting stuck if the car is left unused for a period of time, causing irratic idle. Had to clean it in mine last year for this very reason :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Mine's been stuck despite everyday using. :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    joujoujou wrote: »
    No problem. :)

    I also thought about disconnecting throttle body heating as it increases performance (slightly). But I'm aware that it can make throttle body freezing in certain circumstances so probably won't do that.

    If them days come I'll reconnect it :D. Do you know is it frost that sticks it? Hardly the contraction of the metal?


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Frost. When you hit the accelerator, pressure in throttle body drops significantly thus causing temperature to drop as well. I got information that it can occur even if air temperature goes slightly below +10 deg. C.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Frost. When you hit the accelerator, pressure in throttle body drops significantly thus causing temperature to drop as well. I got information that it can occur even if air temperature goes slightly below +10 deg. C.

    Never thought of the pressure drop in the manifold. Thought there would be enough heat in the engine bay and warmish outside air flowing in to stop it freezing. I'd imagine there's a complicated bit of maths involved!


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,510 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Well, heat goes from the outside, frost is inside. :)

    It is complicated alright.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,331 ✭✭✭toyotaavensis


    Interslice wrote: »
    Never thought of the pressure drop in the manifold. Thought there would be enough heat in the engine bay and warmish outside air flowing in to stop it freezing. I'd imagine there's a complicated bit of maths involved!
    Maths isnt that complicated
    This
    http://www.ugrad.math.ubc.ca/coursedoc/math100/notes/diffeqs/cool.html
    gives you
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_equation
    it isn't too bad.


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