Stalking setup questions.

One shot on kill

This is a broad enough tread so I can try clear up a few questions as I'm kooky at various setups.

First of scopes
Swift premier
Hawke indurance/sidewinder
Winchester. ( its on a rifle I was looking at )
Bushnell banner


Rifle.
Tikka t3 lite in stainless.
Remington 700 sps
Styer pro hunter ( possibly cumin up for sale )

Ammo.
I have a clue but will be using in 243


These are just things ive seen and have caught my eye.

daithi55

have never seen a winchester scope
but i have winchester binos and there good glass

as for the rifle i love the tikka t3 lite

zeissman

I would also go for the Tikka.
I think you should hold out and try and get a quality new or 2nd hand european scope.

Tommy87

I have a bushnell banner, dusk and dawn model. I think they are around €300. I find it very good, anyone that picks up my rifle always says its a fine clear scope, I think it's the best of the "cheaper" scopes. Bushnell are a huge company and make a lot of high end expensive scopes so I'd imagine the cheaper ones are well built.

Saying that I did get a 6-18 x40 one before and after two shots the reticle turned sideways, as if the scope twisted if you get me. But it hadn't twisted, just the reticle. I took it back to the shop and I got a 4-16 x 40, but it was the dusk and dawn model. Someone told me after that the 6-18 series are Chinese made, and the dusk and dawn line are USA made in the proper factory. I'd definatly reccomend these scopes.

Another thing is, a lot of gunships will try sell you what they want to sell you and not what you want! You probably know this anyway. One shop I go go, if you mention deer stalkin, he won't stop trying to sell you a 3-9 power scope, which is definatly not enough in my opinion. There was a guy on here lately sayin he has one on his .243 (robotack I think) and he says it's just not enough power. I'd agree, unless all your shots are 100yrds I spose. Im sure people use 3-9 power scopes for Deer all the time and they are perfect but just my opinion I'd get more power.

Now the rifle!- a friend of mine has a tikka t3 hunter, oh man a beautiful rifle. I have a ruger m77 and a Remington 700 sps, both lovely rifles too. I spose you'd be better off to find any of the main rifles that fit you. They are all good quality to be honest.

As for ammo you will have to wait for your rifle as in my experience, every rifle will shoot every ammo different. I find this fascinating as I will fire a 150 grain bullet and it hits one spot, then another 150 grain bullet of a different brand and it has It has a different point of impact. As for bullet types, I usually stick to soft point or hollow point bullets, and also what I find is if you stick to the better quality brand like hornady, Remington, sako, Winchester you'd be better off. I was using ppu soft point ammo at first, really good groups, but I found it zipped straight through with little expansion. Nearly the same size entry and exit wound. I switched to hornady hollow points then and not one runner since, just drop on the spot. I'll put up a picture of the exit wound of you want??

Anyway that's my opinion on your setup!! Sorry if I rambled on!!

Tommy

One shot on kill

Good info there lads thanks. The tikka and the Remi suit me best and sit well into me. The only think about the Remi sps it has no floor plate or mag which is a bit of an off put for me to be honest but might just get over it if the price is right

Scopes.
With the bushnell you prob have to go new unless you know the seller because the Chinese copy everything.

Tommy

Stick up a picture when you get a chance thanks.

Any one else have any other suggestions.

Tommy87

Just ont quick thing there, I have the sps varmint and it has a floor plate.

LIFFY FISHING

I love my Remmy 700 in .223 & am looking at a deer rifle but wouldnt go for the Remington again, its a heavy gun with the scope , mod and bipod attached which would put me off for a stalking rifle, looked at the tikka and sako thats tge direction at the monent I am leaning.
The Remingtons are going cheapest of the three then the Tika and then the Sako, suppose it always comes down to budget however for the sake of a couple of hundred extra its not worth getting it wrong and trying to sell at a loss and getting more money together to get what you should have gone for in the first place imho.

Tommy87

This is a 168grain hornady hollow point. The shot is at an angle and went straight through the engine room, the deer dropped on the spot and Both lungs were in bits as well as the heart and liver.

Cass

Scopes

One shot on kill wrote: »

Swift premier

Too many problems wirth these so while they are good enough i would be cautious. Most expensive in this list.

Hawke indurance/sidewinder

Sang this long enough, but i'd go for the Sidewinder 30. Second dearest in this list.

Winchester. ( its on a rifle I was looking at )

Not a bad scope. Glass is not great, and they can be bought for under €200 brand new. Cheapest in this list.

Bushnell banner

Second cheapest scope on the list. More a rimfire/varmint caliber scope, IMO. While it might work on a larger caliber i'd be wary. Glass is not as good as their Elite range hence the price.

Rifles

Tikka t3 lite in stainless.

Nice rifle. Accurate, dependable, and light to carry. Not a fan of the stocks.

Remington 700 sps

Same price range, and a decent rifle. Action not as good as Tikka or Styer, but by no means a poor replacement.

Styer pro hunter ( possibly cumin up for sale )

Great action, and good accurate rifle. Also do not like the stock o these, but it's a toss up between this and the Tikka. I would allow personal choice or budget to make the decision for you.

Ammo.

I have a clue but will be using in 243

Being trying out ammo for my own as it's been a good few years since i had one.

• 58 gr V-Max - Good bullet fast, light, and suited to a slow twist rate such as 1:12. No difference in POI from 100 yards to 200 yards. Large point blank range.
• 80 gr Federal - Good bullet, slower, andwould suit a 1:11/1:10 twist rifle.
• 95 gr Hornady (SP) - Very fast, and good grouping bullet. Very little drop (2 clicks) between 100 & 200 yards. Fast twist needed 1:10 or faster.
• 100 gr Selior & bellot - Got these from a mate. Not bad, decent groups, but very slow, and 2.5" drop between 100 to 200 yards. Also needs fast twist to get any good out of them.

One shot on kill

Like most I suppose its all coming down to budget. Which will prob be the deciding factor. Haven said that we all want the best of stuff but its trying to get the happy medium which is the problem. As regards rifle scope etc.

I'd but the tikka In A heart beat but there is a bit of messing with the sale terms so its not looking good. Haven't said that it is the only one I have come across so far.

I regards license for rifle on e you have your stalking license that's all you need do you still need to get farmers permissions or is it a case of once your stalking license is granted your laughing.

Tommy87

You'll need the permissions to get the hunting license. It says 3 permissions. Written permissions. With farmers name, acerage and very importantly folio number. You can print off pre-filled forms yourself with blanks for their name and numbers etc.

One shot on kill

Ye I have my hunting liscense already I was just wondering do I need any thin else.

Cass

Just to be clear. You have a deer license already?

If so, and on your current rifle, then when applying you can use the deer license as reason for the new gun, and then when applying for your deer license renewal just supply the details of the new gun.

4200fps

My opinion remington are only average and clumsy. They don't make them like they used to. Tikka or Styer would put remington to shame in performance. On the scopes i'd have neither of them . Spend 700 euro and get a decent Zeiss Duralyt 3-12x50. Anyone I see buy cheap stuff are always the ones who's never happy or ones who never looked through a good scope to realize there's a difference. Buy European let it be rifle or scope you won't go wrong. On ammunition v-max on foxs only and SST,GMX or Hollow points on deer/goats. Soft points are just ok but never as accurate as polymer tipped rounds.

4200fps

Tommy87 wrote: »

You'll need the permissions to get the hunting license. It says 3 permissions. Written permissions. With farmers name, acerage and very importantly folio number. You can print off pre-filled forms yourself with blanks for their name and numbers etc.

Hi Tommy87. I'm looking at the new application and its the same as last years. I don't see where its says 3 permissions? I only use one permission and it was enough

Cass

4200fps wrote: »

Anyone I see buy cheap stuff are always the ones who's never happy or ones who never looked through a good scope to realize there's a difference..

I have owned S&B, Nightforce, Zeiss, Burris, and most other brands. Yes there is a difference, but my budget does not always allow me to buy what i want so saying to forget the scope choices in your budget to go for something twice your budget is not right.

Look at the scopes mentioned. The dearest one, brand new, is €480. The cheapest one just €200. Having used top quality scopes myself i know what i want, but the reason i went for Hawke Sidewinder was because i cannot afford the big fancy ones so went for something within my budget without sacrificing too much in terms of quality. The Hawke, to my surprise, done this so i am more than happy with it.


As for the ammo. I'd agree. Stay away from soft point when possible.

4200fps

Cass wrote: »

I have owned S&B, Nightforce, Zeiss, Burris, and most other brands. Yes there is a difference, but my budget does not always allow me to buy what i want so saying to forget the scope choices in your budget to go for something twice your budget is not right.

Look at the scopes mentioned. The dearest one, brand new, is €480. The cheapest one just €200. Having used top quality scopes myself i know what i want, but the reason i went for Hawke Sidewinder was because i cannot afford the big fancy ones so went for something within my budget without sacrificing too much in terms of quality. The Hawke, to my surprise, done this so i am more than happy with it.


As for the ammo. I'd agree. Stay away from soft point when possible.

Correct Cass. The worst part for many is the money isn't there to get these things we all like. I saved and saved like mad for a few weeks and bought a Swarovski. It was the best thing I did I recon, never have to look back but it was tough to get the money saved without giving up and going for mid range optics to get out shooting early. Pays to hold on a while

Cass

4200fps wrote: »

............... but it was tough to get the money saved without giving up and going for mid range optics to get out shooting early.

There is problem number one. Having waited weeks for the license, possibly months, then to wait even more for the scope. It's hard to do.

Pays to hold on a while

Problem number two.

Sometimes it's not an option. It would take me, in my current financial position, about 4 months just to get the price of a Hawke together. I managed to acquire a lot of high quality stuff over the years, and by selling some of it, and downgrading in terms of quality of brand i have been fortunate to be able to keep a certain level. However that is pretty much gone so now anything that i need is out of my price range.

I;m sure there are more and more of us in this position. From very little to no disposable income. Plus what's the betting that as soon as you get close to the money you need something pops up that drains that fund. Always the way.


So if i had the choice i would go for better. However if it was a choice between waiting months or going for a second (yet equally effective) chouice and get shooting soon i'd take door number two please Bob.

Robotack

One shot on kill wrote: »

The only think about the Remi sps it has no floor plate or mag which is a bit of an off put for me to be honest
.

It has to have one or the other I'd imagine. My SPS has a floor plate.

4200, when you say that Tikka or Steyr would put the remmi "to shame in performance"... what do you mean? My Remmi shoots tiny groups at long distances, has never misfired and kills deer, so I'm a satisfied customer.... I'm wondering how you judge / quantify performance?

4200fps

Robotack wrote: »

It has to have one or the other I'd imagine. My SPS has a floor plate.

4200, when you say that Tikka or Steyr would put the remmi "to shame in performance"... what do you mean? My Remmi shoots tiny groups at long distances, has never misfired and kills deer, so I'm a satisfied customer.... I'm wondering how you judge / quantify performance?

The tikka had much tighter and more consistent grouping vs Remington 700 LVSF firing 3 different v-max loads also the bolt on most European rifles are super slick to cycle thats how I compared them. The remington I found fired only one particular load very accurately where the Tikka fired all very accurately and consistently. The LVSF is probably one or the best of the Remington rifles that was manufactured over the last few years but open for correction. Same man tested both rifles, From my experience firing 2 different Remingtons I had some jams while cycling the bolt where the Tikka never once had a jam. I'm not saying Reminton is a bad rifle at all but there is better to be got for similar money. I would favor the Remingtons safety over a Tikka. If your having results and your happy with it thats a rifle worth keeping. Everybody has different results and taste and opinions. I don't doubt a word your saying Robotack I just wouldn't go for Remington again but I'd favor Remington over a few other rifles if I couldn't get a Tikka if you know where i'm coming from.

Robotack

Fair enough. I will agree that my sps is quite ammo fussy.

I love every other aspect of it though and I honestly find the bolt as slick as any other I tried.

TriggerPL

I've a prohunter in 243 and luv it can't fault it in anyway .

Tikka smashing gun my only concern with tika and sako is the safety the fella that designed it need his balls in a vice ! Yes when safe it is safe no dout but having to make the gun unsafe to unload it is a joke !

Scope spend a few quid more and buy something second hand or new duralyt .

Tommy87

4200fps wrote: »

Hi Tommy87. I'm looking at the new application and its the same as last years. I don't see where its says 3 permissions? I only use one permission and it was enough

Ya your right actually, I just looked there, I don't know what put that in my head. Sorry about that! I put 2 the last time myself.

clivej

First go for the BEST rifle you can afford. No question about that.
Tikka and Sako are great value for the money and will last a lift time. Good deals on second-hand models to be got out there at the moment.

You can change a scope quicker, and cheaper, than you can the rifle.

I'm a Bushnell man and have all Bushnell scopes on my rifles. Look at the Elite and tactical series as they are all fine scopes. All mine were bought second-hand at half the price of new.

One shot on kill

CASS. Yes I now have a license to hunt deer for 2013/14 season. I've my approval letter stating that my license is approved and will be issued on the first of August would I be right in saying that's it that's all I need and I should be prity much plain sailing from here. Providing the super is happy.

4200fps wrote: »

I saved and saved like mad for a few weeks and bought a Swarovski.

How many weeks and how much was the scope, because I know it would take me a lot longer than a couple of weeks to save up for a scope in that range.

Robotack wrote: »

It has to have one or the other I'd imagine. My SPS has a floor plate. ?

I've looked at 3 and they all took 1 or two rounds into the body and 1 in the chamber. And you have to cycle the bolt for every round to unload.

TriggerPL wrote: »

I've a prohunter in 243 and luv it can't fault it in anyway .

Tikka smashing gun my only concern with tika and sako is the safety the fella that designed it need his balls in a vice ! Yes when safe it is safe no dout but having to make the gun unsafe to unload it is a joke !

I looked at another pro hunter today lovely gun infairness. There was something with the trigger I've never seen it before but don't remember what he called it.
What do you mean about the safety.

Cass

One shot on kill wrote: »

CASS. Yes I now have a license to hunt deer for 2013/14 season. I've my approval letter stating that my license is approved and will be issued on the first of August would I be right in saying that's it that's all I need and I should be prity much plain sailing from here. Providing the super is happy. .

Well if ou have the deer license (issued or promised), and have everything else in order (FCA1, permissions, security, etc) then you are set. Just pick out the gun, send in the FCA1, and wait.

I'd do it shortly though.

From everything i've read, and what i experienced on my last license application the waiting times have gone up drastically due to manpower shortages around the country. So assuming you are going to be waiting the 3 months that means you need to get the application in by middle/end of May to be guaranteed to have the rifle license by Sept.

TriggerPL

I looked at another pro hunter today lovely gun infairness. There was something with the trigger I've never seen it before but don't remember what he called it.
What do you mean about the safety.[/quote]

The steyr comes with a set trigger " u push it forward and you have a hair trigger so to speak " I find this useful when zeroing and taking those long shots . But on deer or lamping the normal trigger is more than enough .

Also in 243 the mag Wil take 4 and one in the chamber . .

What I mean by the tikka safety is the bolt locks in place when safe and can't be open so if you want to unload the gun at any stage you have to put the gun into firing mode and run the bolt to empty the gun .

IMO it is a poor setup if you have to put the gun into firing mode to empty the breach .

One shot on kill

TriggerPL wrote: »

I looked at another pro hunter today lovely gun infairness. There was something with the trigger I've never seen it before but don't remember what he called it.
What do you mean about the safety.

The steyr comes with a set trigger " u push it forward and you have a hair trigger so to speak " I find this useful when zeroing and taking those long shots . But on deer or lamping the normal trigger is more than enough .

Also in 243 the mag Wil take 4 and one in the chamber . .

What I mean by the tikka safety is the bolt locks in place when safe and can't be open so if you want to unload the gun at any stage you have to put the gun into firing mode and run the bolt to empty the gun .

IMO it is a poor setup if you have to put the gun into firing mode to empty the breach .[/QUOTE]


That's it a set trigger I didn't really understand it or know how to use both because it was a very brief demo.

As regards the tikka safety i see what you mean alright but are most like that I know my cz is anyway.

TriggerPL

One shot on kill wrote: »

That's it a set trigger I didn't really understand it or know how to use both because it was a very brief demo.

As regards the tikka safety i see what you mean alright but are most like that I know my cz is anyway.

That I don't know . The steyr has a 3 stage safety . The first locks the bolt so it can't be open and the second allows u to cycle the bolt while safe and then firing mode .

One shot on kill

TriggerPL wrote: »

That I don't know . The steyr has a 3 stage safety . The first locks the bolt so it can't be open and the second allows u to cycle the bolt while safe and then firing mode .

Infairness that sounds ideal and safer alright.

Catfirelily

Most factory rifles are going to shoot M.O.A. (1 inch groups) at 100yrds out of the box.So just pick the one that suits you best on your budget.
If it were me I'd be spending the big end of the budget on glass.
No matter how accurate the rifle is you can't shoot something if you can't see it.
Most deer shooting is done in poor light conditions and usually in or close to cover of some sort where you need good glass to identify what you are shooting at.
I wouldn't chance shooting a deer at over 300yrds with a .243 (emphasis on "I") so I would be looking at a fixed power scope maybe a schmidt&bender 8x56 or a Zeiss 7x50(my favourite) Kahles also do a fixed power 8x56 I think. All these have superb glass and can be got 2nd hand fairly right.
I'd also be trying to buy the best binoculars I could afford.

4200fps

One shot on kill wrote: »

How many weeks and how much was the scope, because I know it would take me a lot longer than a couple of weeks to save up for a scope in that range.

At the time I had to sell a car that was lying around so got 1550euro,that payed for the mounts,mod and the second hand rifle. The scope is a swaorovski 6-24x50 Habicht which was 1000euro secondhand and I'd to stay off the booze and limit my spending for about 6 weeks after paying my keep to afford it. If I wasn't happy with the scope it be gone long ago. Actually its the only scope I ever bought so it was worth holding on for a few weeks to get the money as the clarity is the last word. It was worth it in the long run. On relation to the safety on the Tikka its not the best for a safety aspect but it engages into fire mode silently and quickly with little effort which is the only good thing when your in a position that you cant make noise or you dont have to be rooting around at the safety to get it into firing mode where as its silly the way you can't eject or cycle the bolt when its locked in safety mode where I could do that with a Remington. 3 ways safety's are a good job and safe but can be a pain when you only have seconds to hit the target without shuffling about making noise and distracting when your trying to keep rifle steady if that makes any sense. That's my opinion we all have different views and scenarios. I don't like safety's too stiff. Another feature that Tikka and Sako rifles are world famous for is their slick bolts also not to mention the bolt handle falls into position at ease compared to some other rifle manufactures, the cycle is very smooth,silent and effortless and its value and quality for their money. There is other rifle manfactures with same spec bolts but 3-5 times the price. Nothing as bad as a rough bolt or a bolt that takes effort to lock into position when the pressure is on

zeissman

TriggerPL wrote: »

I've a prohunter in 243 and luv it can't fault it in anyway .

Tikka smashing gun my only concern with tika and sako is the safety the fella that designed it need his balls in a vice ! Yes when safe it is safe no dout but having to make the gun unsafe to unload it is a joke !

Scope spend a few quid more and buy something second hand or new duralyt .

I dont know about the tikka but you dont have to make the sako unsafe to unload it. You leave the safety on then press a release button and open the bolt.

4200fps

zeissman wrote: »

I dont know about the tikka but you dont have to make the sako unsafe to unload it. You leave the safety on then press a release button and open the bolt.

That sounds like a different feature to the Tikka zeissman, didn't know that now

TriggerPL

zeissman wrote: »

I dont know about the tikka but you dont have to make the sako unsafe to unload it. You leave the safety on then press a release button and open the bolt.

At which stage the bolt comes completely out in you hand and if your using the sako like the 591 you need to cycle the bolt to unload it .

As for the steyr safety been 3 stage the safety is a rolling safety , and it silent and located right under your thumb so it easy to access then the safety on the side of most rifles .

4200fps

TriggerPL wrote: »

At which stage the bolt comes completely out in you hand and if your using the sako like the 591 you need to cycle the bolt to unload it .

As for the steyr safety been 3 stage the safety is a rolling safety , and it silent and located right under your thumb so it easy to access then the safety on the side of most rifles .

My thumb tips mine into position at ease can't fault the location. Tikka vs Steyr :pac::p:D

zeissman

TriggerPL wrote: »

At which stage the bolt comes completely out in you hand and if your using the sako like the 591 you need to cycle the bolt to unload it .

As for the steyr safety been 3 stage the safety is a rolling safety , and it silent and located right under your thumb so it easy to access then the safety on the side of most rifles .

Not on the sako 75 and 85.
The button is in front of the safety catch and only opens the bolt.
The buton to remove the bolt is on the other side of the rifle.

TriggerPL

4200fps wrote: »

My thumb tips mine into position at ease can't fault the location. Tikka vs Steyr :pac::p:D

We don't all have freddy crugar fingers like you . Look at no stage would the safety be a complete deal breaker for me buying a tikka or sako its just pointing out what I think is a major **** up in design ,
Every gun should be able to be unloaded with out putting it into firing mode ! Do u really not agree with that ?

TriggerPL

zeissman wrote: »

Not on the sako 75 and 85.
The button is in front of the safety catch and only opens the bolt.
The buton to remove the bolt is on the other side of the rifle.

Well then they have started to cop on but the tikka don't have that ! Cheers for pointing that out

4200fps

TriggerPL wrote: »

Well then they have started to cop on but the tikka don't have that ! Cheers for pointing that out

Tikka do. Tikka vs Steyr :P:D

TriggerPL

4200fps wrote: »

Tikka do. Tikka vs Steyr :P:D

Right we start with round capacity you tikka hold 4 my steyr holds 5 ! And you can't get an extended mag anywhere hahaha ! :-P

TriggerPL

4200fps wrote: »

Tikka do. Tikka vs Steyr :P:D[

You have your gun 2 years and only notice it now because it was pointed out , sure something to do with gun safety should be more obvious .

Mod feel free to clean up this thread it gone like most my rifle better than urs bla bla

4200fps

TriggerPL wrote: »

4200fps wrote: »

Tikka do. Tikka vs Steyr :P:D[

You have your gun 2 years and only notice it now because it was pointed out , sure something to do with gun safety should be more obvious .

Mod feel free to clean up this thread it gone like most my rifle better than urs bla bla

Didn't notice it now actually as I take the bolt out for cleaning every time im finished. Tikka vs Steyr :P:pac::D only having the banter
Yet to say you cant take out the bolt on a Tikka with the bolt release button on the left when the safety is on :P

TriggerPL

4200fps wrote: »

TriggerPL wrote: »

Didn't notice it now actually as I take the bolt out for cleaning every time im finished. Tikka vs Steyr :P:pac::D only having the banter
Yet to say you cant take out the bolt on a Tikka with the bolt release button on the left when the safety is on :P

Never said u couldn take out bolt , said ya can cycle rifle in safe mode

4200fps

TriggerPL wrote: »

4200fps wrote: »

Never said u couldn take out bolt , said ya can cycle rifle in safe mode

Didn't say can cycle rifle in safe mode

One shot on kill

4200fps wrote: »

At the time I had to sell a car that was lying around so got 1550euro,that payed for the mounts,mod and the second hand rifle. The scope is a swaorovski 6-24x50 Habicht which was 1000euro secondhand and I'd to stay off the booze and limit my spending for about 6 weeks after paying my keep to afford it. If I wasn't happy with the scope it be gone long ago. Actually its the only scope I ever bought so it was worth holding on for a few weeks to get the money as the clarity is the last word. It was worth it in the long run. On relation to the safety on the Tikka its not the best for a safety aspect but it engages into fire mode silently and quickly with little effort which is the only good thing when your in a position that you cant make noise or you dont have to be rooting around at the safety to get it into firing mode where as its silly the way you can't eject or cycle the bolt when its locked in safety mode where I could do that with a Remington. 3 ways safety's are a good job and safe but can be a pain when you only have seconds to hit the target without shuffling about making noise and distracting when your trying to keep rifle steady if that makes any sense. That's my opinion we all have different views and scenarios. I don't like safety's too stiff. Another feature that Tikka and Sako rifles are world famous for is their slick bolts also not to mention the bolt handle falls into position at ease compared to some other rifle manufactures, the cycle is very smooth,silent and effortless and its value and quality for their money. There is other rifle manfactures with same spec bolts but 3-5 times the price. Nothing as bad as a rough bolt or a bolt that takes effort to lock into position when the pressure is on

Ah right it worked out well for you so. It's like a good set up but to be honest I've no intention on spending that sort of money on a scope that's serious bread. Although I'm sure its worth every penny. Maybe when I get more into and want to up my game a bit more.
Thank you for your input and advice all the same

One shot on kill

Back to this one guys sorry.

Ok setup is sorted as far as scope rifle mounts.

The licence is back and I should be picking the rifle up tomorrow.

I'm now looking at possible mods to use on a tikka t3 lite stainless in 243. I think I would like an over barrel mod. Not sure whether I want stainless or black or what make to get.

Also there is a possibility that I might need something to raise my check a little bit to look through the scope. Is there padded check risers or sell fill ones in what's the story with them. I often see them holds rounds in them but I'm not to interested in that for some reasons.

If anyone has pros and cons please share them lads thanks.

Osok

Cass

The three over barrel mods i know of are;

• NorthStar
• T-8
• WildCat.

Each are good with the Northstar being the heaviest (i think). The T8 is a little "tinney", and needs extra care, but is one of the quietest mods.

Other mods that attach to the end of the rifle are;

• Ase Utra
• A-Tec
• Roedale

Ase are among the best (imo) but the most expensive, and heaviest. Roedale are light, and effective and can be broken down or extra baffles added. never tried A-Tec but they seem to be the business, and come in stainless.


Average prices are between €260 up to €400 for everything from the T-8 to the Ase.


As for cheek riser. You can get the bullet pouches that double as a riser as you mentioned, but you can also get velcro fitted pads, or tie on pads. There is my personal favorite. The Karsten cheek riser. It means drilling the stock to put the bolts through, but they are excellent, effective, comfortable, and not too expensive at around €45-€50.

One shot on kill

Cass wrote: »

The three over barrel mods i know of are;

• NorthStar
• T-8
• WildCat.

Each are good with the Northstar being the heaviest (i think). The T8 is a little "tinney", and needs extra care, but is one of the quietest mods.

Other mods that attach to the end of the rifle are;

• Ase Utra
• A-Tec
• Roedale

Ase are among the best (imo) but the most expensive, and heaviest. Roedale are light, and effective and can be broken down or extra baffles added. never tried A-Tec but they seem to be the business, and come in stainless.


Average prices are between €260 up to €400 for everything from the T-8 to the Ase.


As for cheek riser. You can get the bullet pouches that double as a riser as you mentioned, but you can also get velcro fitted pads, or tie on pads. There is my personal favorite. The Karsten cheek riser. It means drilling the stock to put the bolts through, but they are excellent, effective, comfortable, and not too expensive at around €45-€50.

To be fair that cheek riser looks like the only job I have to say I'd be a bit nervous about drilling the holes in the stock.

Cass

They are a piece of piss to fit. Two small pilot holes, then the main holes for the bolts. The longest part of it is having the stock removed, squared up, and making sure it is all just right before you drill.

All in all it takes about 15-20 minutes including prep time. I've done three of them. Plus if you don't have a torque wrench then mark the screws, and count the turns as the action screws are coming out, and do the same in reverse, and the rifle should be pretty much spot on in terms of zero.

Only thing is when selling the rifle i generally leave the cheek riser on. "hides" the holes, and gives the new owner the same option. Looks better than a holey stock.

One shot on kill

Oh here drilling it and squaring I wouldn't shy away from it at all but you can never really take it of after because of the holes then. Although what's the problem with leaveing it on I suppose.

Any one any thought on what range of ammo to use.