The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

Cienciano

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Its very good stuff but TBH 99% of people put it on wrong.....Its meant to be used very sparingly with the thinnest layer of a coat being the best way to apply it. I would take off the saddle of the bike and spray all the electrical components and leave it overnight (thats what I did), then the next morning remove the excess after it creeped all night into the nooks and crannies.

If putting on fairings and body work spray some into the cap and dab the cloth into the cap and put on and take off after 2-3 mins dont let it soak into fairings.

And yes avoid brakes and tyres......

Good info there, cheers. I assume you give your bike a decent clean and apply afterwards when it's dry. Mightn't get away with cleaning the bike today.
I used to apply Rock Oil silicone spray the exact same way, I used a cloth to apply to some areas.

blade1

Cienciano wrote: »

Good info there, cheers. I assume you give your bike a decent clean and apply afterwards when it's dry. Mightn't get away with cleaning the bike today.
I used to apply Rock Oil silicone spray the exact same way, I used a cloth to apply to some areas.

Make sure it dry anyway!
As good as it is for keeping moisture out, it will also keep it in, which you don't want.

Wonda-Boy

Cienciano wrote: »

Good info there, cheers. I assume you give your bike a decent clean and apply afterwards when it's dry. Mightn't get away with cleaning the bike today.
I used to apply Rock Oil silicone spray the exact same way, I used a cloth to apply to some areas.

If you google it you will see some super videos for applying it. If you had one of those fine mist atonimisers (or what ever they are called) they are ideal for using the ACF50 as it puts on the finest of fine coats using a very very thin mist. Exactly what it needs....dont be heavy handed what ever you do. Be generous on the under the saddle bits.

But yeah scrub the bike or even wait and get it steam cleaned (Bewleys Leopardstown) drive it home and do it. It will be pristine.

chiplad

Fitted a Givi rack and plate to my FZS600 today, picking up a used top box tomorrow, happy Christmas to me ðŸ˜

lennymc

Christmas eve: remove front and rear wheels, clean down and grease up axles and bolts. Spend an hour removing stubborn bolt for chain adjustment (which thankfully didn't shear). Refit wheels and strip bodywork.
Today. Replace coolant, fork oil (theold stuff was very bad) plugs, clean air filter, good clean of chain, fill scottoiler, wonder what I will do about the corroded exhaust collector (fleabay?) Set front suspension back to stock, start cleaning nooks and crannies when bodywork is off.
Tomorrow. Change headlight bulbs, wire auxiliary side lights into indicators (it has small led ones and im not convinced they are visible), refit bodywork after checking the wiring routing, bleed coolant, oil and filter, good clean, lube all lube points, treat with scott oil protection stuff, give it a good check over and maybe get out for a spin.

To do in the new year. Front tyre. Chain and sprockets. Strip down and clean calipers with new fluid. Fit handle bar muffs.

dorannoel

Well I finally bought a bike!!!

Pick it up the week before Christmas!!

Hear it is

zubair

What a beauty, great colour... And it matches your new lid.

Richard tea

dorannoel wrote: »

Well I finally bought a bike!!!

Pick it up the week before Christmas!!

Hear it is

Fantastic looking machine noel. Where did u pick it up may I ask?

Wonda-Boy

dorannoel wrote: »

Well I finally bought a bike!!!

Pick it up the week before Christmas!!

Hear it is

Were you on a motorbike doing a ton when you took them pictures mate ffs....they dont do the bike justice at all.

Get some proper pics up Noel. :rolleyes:

Mr Sheen!

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Were you on a motorbike doing a ton when you took them pictures mate ffs....they dont do the bike justice at all.

Get some proper pics up Noel. :rolleyes:

Agree with Wonda Noel them pics let the bike and your cleaning skills down . . .Looks like ya took them with a 3210.

Cracking bike though Noel not a mark on it. I have had the pleasure of riding it and its a beauty.

No doubt you will have her looking even better shorty with a nice few upgrades.

dorannoel

Thanks lads!!

Picked her up over in England!!!

Ye I know wonda-boy & Leppla
It only a camera phone that I used 2 take the pictures don't have a rely good camera

Wonda-boy
Must get you 2 take a good picture of it one of the days!!!

Sore I have stuff order for it allready!!!😜ðŸ‘

blade1

Tigers starting to mount up around here!
Tasty looking bike.
Nice in red and love the single sided swingarm!
Best of luck with her!

KTRIC

blade1 wrote: »

Tigers starting to mount up around here!
Tasty looking bike.
Nice in red and love the single sided swingarm!
Best of luck with her!

We need to do a Triumph meet up

Richard tea

I fitted the rear braided brake line. Simple job. I just tightened the bolts enough so as not to leak. Ill do this once I get a smaller torque wrench.

I know you must keep refilling until the fluid runs clear from bubbles but every now and again I would get a tiny tiny bubble or 2. Is this ok or is there no allowance. I prob filled the rear brake reservoir 5 times to run it clear. When I say the bubble was tiny im talking the size of a pin head?

Hotblack Desiato

Yes to get a really firm lever feel you have to get rid of even the tiniest bubbles.
Hold the fluid bottle as close to the reservoir as possible and pour it slowly so the new fluid going in doesn't get aerated
Obviously, don't shake the fluid bottle and if you tip it over before opening it, forget it, leave it at least overnight before using it

I wouldn't worry so much about the rear brake so long as it's working ok, but on the fronts I'd be wanting to get every last trace of air out.

Richard tea

Hotblack Desiato wrote: »

Yes to get a really firm lever feel you have to get rid of even the tiniest bubbles.
Hold the fluid bottle as close to the reservoir as possible and pour it slowly so the new fluid going in doesn't get aerated
Obviously, don't shake the fluid bottle and if you tip it over before opening it, forget it, leave it at least overnight before using it

I wouldn't worry so much about the rear brake so long as it's working ok, but on the fronts I'd be wanting to get every last trace of air out.

Just from a quick test in the driveway the rear skids so its working. Ill wait till I do the front lines before I take her out and give her the 100 mph to 0 test:p I joke I joke

serious3

Figuredout the burning smell was my cdi melting, caused by the reg rec failing...... Ouch, fitted new carb inlet rubbers, replaced the clutch cable, cleaned the throttle tube as it was getting sticky, added a new earth point from the battery as well

Richard tea

serious3 wrote: »

Figuredout the burning smell was my cdi melting, caused by the reg rec failing...... Ouch, fitted new carb inlet rubbers, replaced the clutch cable, cleaned the throttle tube as it was getting sticky, added a new earth point from the battery as well

can i ask where u got the carb inlet rubbers?

Tzardine

Fitted handguards to the bandit 1200s today.

Ordered the kit from the VSTORM 650. RHS fitted perfect. LHS needs some adjustment as the bandit has a hydraulic clutch but its fits ok for the moment until I get around to adapting it.

Can feel the difference. Hands nice and toasty and the heated grips are noticeably warmer.

With the Scottoiler also recently fitted she is now the perfect commuting machine.

Also, I rode into work on Monday at 6am during the cold spell. I was frozen solid. Turns out that driving at 100Km/h (Nicely gritted motorway) in -4 temps brings the wind chill down to -30 !!

serious3

Richard tea wrote: »

can i ask where u got the carb inlet rubbers?

wemoto they are listed as isolation rubbers

Richard tea

I finished off fitting the front braided lines. Thanks to advice from here:)
Turning the handle bars from side to side and tapping the lines & calipers helped to free trapped air.


I took her for a quick spin and the braking is noticeably different. So much so that I could feel the rear squirm a little. The roads are far to wet and greasy to really test them so ill hold off. All in all im delighted with the upgrade:)

boardsuser1

Tzardine wrote: »

Finally got around to some major maintenance.

Oil
Plugs
Air & Oil Filters
Valve Clearance
Carb Sync
Fitted a Scottoiler

And a wash

Took about 10 hours all together. Most of that getting the valve cover off and back on again.

Bike is running great. Should see her through the winter.

I'm in awe just looking at it,beautiful machine

Wonda-Boy

Very nice bike, great all rounder. And bags of torque too......is she hard on back tyres?

Tzardine

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

Very nice bike, great all rounder. And bags of torque too......is she hard on back tyres?

It's not the worst. But I do a lot of motorway commuting so it's about a round as a Lego brick.

Wonda-Boy

Tzardine wrote: »

It's not the worst. But I do a lot of motorway commuting so it's about a round as a Lego brick.

What tyres do you run with so, you might be better off getting a "TOURING TYRE" rather then a softer sport tyre if you are not already.

blu3r0ri0n

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

What tyres do you run with so, you might be better off getting a "TOURING TYRE" rather then a softer sport tyre if you are not already.

+1 Pilot Road 2 is cheap and good in the wet and not soft at all. If you have the cash splash out on the PR 4.

Had a bandit for a week with PR2 on it, felt good.

Tzardine

Wonda-Boy wrote: »

What tyres do you run with so, you might be better off getting a "TOURING TYRE" rather then a softer sport tyre if you are not already.

It's has a sports tyre on it alright. Some form of Battleax , can't remember off the top of my head.

I will have a look into the PR's. Many thanks.

Mr Sheen!

blu3r0ri0n wrote: »

+1 Pilot Road 2 is cheap and good in the wet and not soft at all. If you have the cash splash out on the PR 4.

Had a bandit for a week with PR2 on it, felt good.

+1 on the PR's. I will find it very hard to every try another make of tyre.

Wonda-Boy

leppla wrote: »

+1 on the PR's. I will find it very hard to every try another make of tyre.

I honestly don't think I would try a different tyre even if the PR series are slightly more expensive. They are just an UBER good tyre especially the PR4 series.

P.C.

Tzardine wrote: »

It's has a sports tyre on it alright. Some form of Battleax , can't remember off the top of my head.

I will have a look into the PR's. Many thanks.

I suggest that you go to a good tyre place and get some advice.
Tell them the type of riding that you mostly do, and they will suggest a tyre that will suit your type of riding and your bike.

There are plenty of good tyre places that will see you right.