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oh man i love that candy 25

kevin2me

BrownFinger wrote: »

oh man i love that candy 25

Ditto got to love both your Cabs Oisin. Both a little bit out there. Unique combo. Not your easy to come by type of cabs. You got good taste Sir...

Every week I See Ronnie's emails and I'm like will I. wont I 😀 Want a blast city!

kevin2me

kevin2me wrote: »

Ditto got to love both your Cabs Oisin. Both a little bit out there. Unique combo. Not your easy to come by type of cabs. You got good taste Sir...

Every week I See Ronnie's emails and I'm like will I. wont I 😀 Want a blast city!

I wanted a neo 25 for ages and Ronnie never had the,
now he has loads.
Price is off the wall for them,well into decent pinball money.
Good few blasts knocking around Ireland so could could get one local and save a few quid.

Jack burton

Ronnies prices are insane right now. I got a blast city off him for alright money about 5 years ago :P

o1s1n

He listed a Neo SC19 recently for a more reasonable (1675!) price than normal - usually seem to be going for something like 2200 these days.

Thought there might be something up with it, yep!

Jack burton

Worth every penny!

o1s1n

Anyone know the ins and outs of fluorescent bulbs/starters actually?

You can see in that photo of my two cabs above, the lightbox on the SNK cab isn't on. Sometimes it comes on, but I'd say about 60% of the time it doesn't.

I've changed the bulb and the starter but it's not them. Also the odd time, the bulb in the Pony beside it doesn't come on either. When it does come on it takes a little while to blink into life after both monitors power on.

I've both cabs running through an Airlink stepdown bring the voltage down to 100v Japanese. Do fluorescent bulbs need a good kick of power to get them going? Fairly sure it has to be the step down as when I used a different one I remember the bulb came on every time. Everything else works 100% though.

CathalDublin

o1s1n wrote: »

Anyone know the ins and outs of fluorescent bulbs/starters actually?

You can see in that photo of my two cabs above, the lightbox on the SNK cab isn't on. Sometimes it comes on, but I'd say about 60% of the time it doesn't.

I've changed the bulb and the starter but it's not them. Also the odd time, the bulb in the Pony beside it doesn't come on either. When it does come on it takes a little while to blink into life after both monitors power on.

I've both cabs running through an Airlink stepdown bring the voltage down to 100v Japanese. Do fluorescent bulbs need a good kick of power to get them going? Fairly sure it has to be the step down as when I used a different one I remember the bulb came on every time. Everything else works 100% though.

Is it the correct starter for the tube? Usually starters have a wattage range they work with, not sure where you'd source 100-110 starters though, or if it even makes a differance:o

example
this will only work with lamps between 4-30w


but this one will do from 4-65w

I've been working on a couple of conversions recently, First is a Sega C2 puzzle & action converted to Thunderforce AC and second a Shinobi bootleg converted to a Fantasy Zone to run in my Dino very happy with the results.







Currently working on a major league to rtype 2 but having problems with no audio ive yet to sort

eddhorse

Very nice Mozie, love those Dinokings.

The Last Bandit

Great job Mozie. Would love to get one of those cabs, did you have to import them or any chance of getting them over here ?

o1s1n

CathalDublin wrote: »

Is it the correct starter for the tube? Usually starters have a wattage range they work with, not sure where you'd source 100-110 starters though, or if it even makes a differance:o

From what I remember they were alright - actually a quick test to see might be just to swap the starters around between the two cabs seeing as one of the bulbs is lighting up.

Deleted User wrote: »

I've been working on a couple of conversions recently, First is a Sega C2 puzzle & action converted to Thunderforce AC and second a Shinobi bootleg converted to a Fantasy Zone to run in my Dino very happy with the results.

Currently working on a major league to rtype 2 but having problems with no audio ive yet to sort

Man they're gorgeous. That Fantasy Zone especially, looks like it could be a commercially released machine.

Is there much to ROM programming as a skill? Would love to give it a go and mess around with a few of my cheaper boards.

Thanks, not really, I'am pretty new to it myself but there's plenty of resources for well known conversions online. Many of the roms have been decrypted and patched so its only a matter of burning a few new ones, other require a few wires soldered but nothing to complex. Gadgetfreak on ukvac has just released a nice repository of patches for a load of boards... also rtype i & ii conversions to irem m82 hardware that requires no hardware hacks at all, major title boards will skyrocket now i'd image As an aside I have a couple of c2 bootlegs I plan on converting to thunderforce ac (best c2 game by far) if anyone is interested gimme a shout and i'll post here before I put them up elsewhere.

o1s1n

Went rooting in the attic again to see if there's anything else I could add into the Pony. Only 4 of the 6 slots were being used for games.

Found one I haven't played in ages, Toplan's Fixeight.




Everything had to come out as due to the way the chassis sits in this cab, you can only really fit this game in the very back slot.



Aaaand it still works, phew!

BGOllie

that one of those 6 slot jamma switcher ?

o1s1n

BGOllie wrote: »

that one of those 6 slot jamma switcher ?

It is indeed, I've five PCBs in the Pony that you can switch between using a wireless remote.

You can only really slot in small to mid sized single layer PCBs. Anything bigger really needs to to be mounted to a board and connected up with a JAMMA extension harness.

Actually what I did was screw Raiden 2 to a board and then mounted a PCB holder over it on extension feet to mount a second big board.

So at the moment it has;

Mercs and Raiden 2 coming in via extension harnesses and then Ibara, Fixeight and a 30 in 1 classics board directly in the slots.

I have one extension harnesses left and am trying to figure out how to get Dodonpachi II in there too

eddhorse

Jeez just a Toaplan PCB lying around in the attic.... :O

And a Dodonpachi....wow

o1s1n

eddhorse wrote: »

Jeez just a Toaplan PCB lying around in the attic.... :O

And a Dodonpachi....wow

Ah its only Dodonpachi II! Picked up a NOS full kit a few years ago, never been opened. Think one of those Asian PCB sellers on eBay (Yaton maybe?) found a whole cache of them and was selling them dirt cheap. Should have bought a few!

KeRbDoG

Deleted User wrote: »

Currently working on a major league to rtype 2 but having problems with no audio ive yet to sort

I now suddenly want/need (unsure what for) a Mini Dinosaur King or Love & Berry or Mushi King cab...mail sent to a Sega contact I had but mail bounce back no longer in the company.

o1s1n

What brand of CRT is in them actually? I think I read somewhere before that it was a Samsung?

geotrig

KeRbDoG wrote: »

I now suddenly want/need (unsure what for) a Mini Dinosaur King or Love & Berry or Mushi King cab...mail sent to a Sega contact I had but mail bounce back no longer in the company.

iirc sega offloaded all their's (warehoused /stored ones) a few years ago

CathalDublin

Does that switcher only power the pcbs as they are turned on?
I've a 2 way one but both boards are always on which I don't like

the remote delete mod is cool on them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyPSHO4TxYc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyPSHO4TxYc

The Last Bandit

Meh, he's talking nonsense, just use 'break before make' rotary switches if you want to go that route. There's a million and 1 ways to setup up a method for changing selected boards. You could setup a microcontroller to switch boards based on a certain Jamma button combos for instance - Start + B1, Start + B2 etc.. rather than more external switches.

Those switchers with the relays should only supply power to the selected board and just buttloads of diodes on all the other signals to isolate them.
I done some work on Oisin's one ages ago, was surprised by the build quality on them - ok some weirdness with the button mapping but don't know how they sell them for a profit..

o1s1n

I was considering maybe that switch mod, but after having a think about it decided against it.

Every time you change a game you're powering it on/off. I didn't fancy the idea of having expensive boards potentially being powered on and off again in quick succession. Much better to have a remote with specific buttons you're pressing (and you can hide it away!)

The Last Bandit

Some nice updates to the Neo Geo UNIBIOS, liking the PickNMix feature which hides the crappy hack on your 161-in-1 cart and gives you a new menu system for it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzXDk0D3XGo

o1s1n

o1s1n wrote: »

What brand of CRT is in them actually? I think I read somewhere before that it was a Samsung?

Sorry just noticed this, yeah mine both have samsung tubes with nanao chassis some of the last crts made I believe, some ran naomis and have a 31hz but mine are both 15hz despite having a vga connector on them (I have hooked up a naomi to one through it at one stage) picture is very crisp.

The Last Bandit

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Some nice updates to the Neo Geo UNIBIOS, liking the PickNMix feature which hides the crappy hack on your 161-in-1 cart and gives you a new menu system for it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzXDk0D3XGo

:eek::eek:

TechnoFreek

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Some nice updates to the Neo Geo UNIBIOS, liking the PickNMix feature which hides the crappy hack on your 161-in-1 cart and gives you a new menu system for it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzXDk0D3XGo

Savage. Defo getting this. Haven't bought much arcade related in a while.

Have the 4.0 bios but only a 150 in 1, might have to exchange for the 161 in 1 to try out this now, be glad to get rid of the horrific menu screen and hacks

safetyboy

I have a unibios and a 161 how do you update the Bios? do you use an eprom programmer?