STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Paremon

If getting a stove installed into an existing open fire place & getting it installed along with stove pack & flexi flue liner etc, should vermiculite be used or not in the chimney area? E.g. poured down the chimney around the flexi flue.

Reason for asking;
some stove installers have said vermiculite HAS to be used (or at the very least should be used), while others either don't mention it at all or say it should NOT be used as it can promote build up of heat in the chimney area which can/does crack the chimney brick/structure.

Thoughts, opinions, recommendations from experience?

Robbie.G

Paremon wrote: »

If getting a stove installed into an existing open fire place & getting it installed along with stove pack & flexi flue liner etc, should vermiculite be used or not in the chimney area? E.g. poured down the chimney around the flexi flue.

Reason for asking;
some stove installers have said vermiculite HAS to be used (or at the very least should be used), while others either don't mention it at all or say it should NOT be used as it can promote build up of heat in the chimney area which can/does crack the chimney brick/structure.

Thoughts, opinions, recommendations from experience?

People will vary on this but my opinion is that vermiculite isn't needed
The reasons been if you put a 6 inch flexi liner down a stardard 8 inch chimney how is vermiculite going to go around the liner properly it can't be done
Also your putting a liner into an existing chimney that is already insulated in construction by use of backfill around the clay liners
I would seal the flexi liner top and bottom if possible
That's my look at it

Robbie.G

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks, I need to keep the same type of flue as it is a feature in a room.

The flue is visible at the back of the stove

You either keep the flue that's visible in the room by using a flexi to rigid adapter
Or replace the rigid flue with new

goldenhoarde

Hi

we got an inset stove fitted recently and have lit it 3 or four times no problems.

However we lit it last night and it just started smoking out the top and bottom straight away.

Any ideas on what the issue could be?

Its just an inset into the existing chimney.

Cheers

eiei0

Can anyone advise me please???

eiei0 wrote: »

I'm after installing a hamco Morgan 20 now I have to try to tidy up the install, how close can I go to it with plasterboard,

I need to box it in slightly at the back to hide the pipes and so on,

I've added a picture to show what I have,

I am thinking of moving the pump around the side so I don't need to come out as deep from the chimney breast the stove is 5" from the breast,

I've seen the high temp boards available from the stove places but at 60 quid a board its quiet an expensive option due to the size I require, 8ft x 6ft at least,

Would heat resistant plaster on standard plasterboard work??
Thanks

Joe1919

eiei0 wrote: »

I'm after installing a hamco Morgan 20 now I have to try to tidy up the install, how close can I go to it with plasterboard,

I need to box it in slightly at the back to hide the pipes and so on,

I've added a picture to show what I have,

I am thinking of moving the pump around the side so I don't need to come out as deep from the chimney breast the stove is 5" from the breast,

I've seen the high temp boards available from the stove places but at 60 quid a board its quiet an expensive option due to the size I require, 8ft x 6ft at least,

Would heat resistant plaster on standard plasterboard work??
Thanks

Just some ideas. Bear in mind that combustible materials should be kept well back from stoves so that in the event of say a chimney fire or someone overheating the the stove (by putting on too much fuel and leaving stove door ajar and leaving room) there is no danger of them going on fire.
1 Large thin detachable metal plate to cover all the pipework (will stay cool if there is room at top & bottom for air to escape) This can go in behind the stove if there room. Can be painted but preferably not directly behind stove.
2. Could the pipework be tidied up, e.g. Circulation pump fitted in hotpress, pressure release valve turned downwards, overflow put closer to corner of stove, remove insulation, paint pipework (but not interfere with pressure release part etc.)

screamer

Does anyone know if an inset stove can be installed into a timber fire surround which has a metal insert at the moment? I've been looking for the regs everywhere but I can't find them. I want to get a stove fitted without wrecking my room so I'm trying to see how much I'm looking at before I get an installer.

Shefwedfan

screamer wrote: »

Does anyone know if an inset stove can be installed into a timber fire surround which has a metal insert at the moment? I've been looking for the regs everywhere but I can't find them. I want to get a stove fitted without wrecking my room so I'm trying to see how much I'm looking at before I get an installer.

I got info before. Yes it is ok. He gave me spec but cant find....I did get the below comment


Wooden surround is perfectly ok if you are putting in a cassette stove as the entire body of the stove is inside the granite panellist which is sealed to the wall which means there is no heat transfer what so ever

That was for insert cassette stove.

Forge83

I'm sorry but that is completely false!
Every stove whether insert or freestanding should have a tested distance to combustibles.
The timber surround is the combustible material.
This measurement may be stated in the stove manual or requested from the manufacturer.

OwenM

Robbie.G wrote: »

People will vary on this but my opinion is that vermiculite isn't needed
The reasons been if you put a 6 inch flexi liner down a stardard 8 inch chimney how is vermiculite going to go around the liner properly it can't be done
Also your putting a liner into an existing chimney that is already insulated in construction by use of backfill around the clay liners
I would seal the flexi liner top and bottom if possible
That's my look at it

If your chimney has an external wall I would use vermiculite, the blockwork will loose heat faster on one side, so where the stainless liner touches the clay liner you get cold(er) spots which encourages condensation of creosote and particulates will gather there.

I didn't use vermiculite and I'm glad I didn't, the chimney breast in the upstairs bedroom is like an extra radiator.

phester28

What Robbie.G is saying is that as a stainless steel liner will touch the original clay liner pouring vermiculite down the chimney is not going to change that. It will not recenter the liner for you so the cold spot will percist.

eiei0

Thanks for the reply, we have moved the pump and safety valve to make it cleaner looking and we are going to build a brick fireplace around the stove, it will be safer than plasterboard and look better hopefully,

Thank

Joe1919 wrote: »

Just some ideas. Bear in mind that combustible materials should be kept well back from stoves so that in the event of say a chimney fire or someone overheating the the stove (by putting on too much fuel and leaving stove door ajar and leaving room) there is no danger of them going on fire.
1 Large thin detachable metal plate to cover all the pipework (will stay cool if there is room at top & bottom for air to escape) This can go in behind the stove if there room. Can be painted but preferably not directly behind stove.
2. Could the pipework be tidied up, e.g. Circulation pump fitted in hotpress, pressure release valve turned downwards, overflow put closer to corner of stove, remove insulation, paint pipework (but not interfere with pressure release part etc.)

OwenM

phester28 wrote: »

What Robbie.G is saying is that as a stainless steel liner will touch the original clay liner pouring vermiculite down the chimney is not going to change that. It will not recenter the liner for you so the cold spot will percist.

the volume of air between an 8" chimney and a 6" liner is about 120 L where the height is 9m. My installer said he would need 2 bags minimum - how much is in a bag? 40 / 50 L. They seem to be able to get it in there, I suppose if the particulate size is small enough it will go. I agree, cold spots might remain but it is an established practice.

rpmcs

For inset stoves ....building regs state a minimum of 300mm above to nearest combustible..ie timber surround .
But most stove manufacturer state above this and rule out leaving a timber surround in place .

Example ....

Stanley cara says above 550mm to timber..

Shefwedfan

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok looking for some advice, have a stove in main room. There was a leak in it and it was coming down pipe. Tried to take photos. I thought it would have been problem with chimney at top. Only happens with really heavy rain. Anyway finally got up on roof and doesn't seem to be any issue up there. Got a builder up there with me as well.

Just wondering what to do? should I just replace the whole flue system?

Also the water is all black from the flue liner and has stained the stone work. Any ideas what might clean it off? Thanks
Thanks.......

Ok so I had a guy in, says there is nothing wrong with flue. Said it could be condensation but he thinks because it only happens when real heavy rain it is actually because I have a standard stop the birds cowl.

Said to replace it and see how it goes, also to give chimney a good sweep. Any recommendations for cowl? Found this online but very expensive: https://topcap.ie/product/stove-cowl-for-flexible-flue-liners/

Thanks

rpmcs

No need for anti down draugh.....just the one below for rain cowl....
Why do you feel the need for anti down draught?

And that one is for flexible liner as well...by sounds of it you don't have flexible liner ?

Shefwedfan

rpmcs wrote: »

No need for anti down draugh.....just the one below for rain cowl....
Why do you feel the need for anti down draught?

And that one is for flexible liner as well...by sounds of it you don't have flexible liner ?

No it is standard flue on top....

I don't know if I need anti down draft to be honest, a friend did mention it might be worth putting one on that will increase the draw on the chimney.....out of stove there is about 1m straight out and then 90 degree turn and up the chimney. Guy who looked at it said the straight bit straight out back was probably too long

That is why I was looking at anti down draft.....probably looking at wrong thing

Hellrazer

Hi all,
I'm looking for some info mainly the regulations about installing a stove in a new extension.
Ive just had a new log cabin extension installed this week.Obvioulsy being made entirely of wood I need to make sure that I'm within the regulations and more importantly that its 100% safe

The dimensions are 4.5m long x 3.5m wide by 2.2 to 3m tall.Its a single storey extension.Walls are 140mm thick with 100 mm expanded foam insulation.Roof is 300mm thick with 100mm expanded foam and then a layer of 200 mm rockwool in the cavity above it.
Where I want to install the stove is at the furthest corner from the house ie 4.5 meters from the nearest wall to the house.The lowest point of the roof ie 2.5 meters outside height.
I will be going straight up through the roof.

So questions are

1.What size hearth to I need?
2.How far does the stove need to be from the internal walls?
3.Can I reduce this distance using a non combustible material over laid on the internal walls?
4.If so by how much?
5.Regarding the flue how high does it have to go above the roof of the extension?
6.When the flue goes through the roof is it insulated against touching the hole that's made?

Ive had one reputable installer out pricing the job but couldn't really get my head around the regs.
Hes recommended single wall up to 1.5 meters inside and then 2 meters of twin wall out through the roof.Is that enough for the stove to function properly?

Apologies for all the questions--its just that I want to know that I'm not getting someone without the knowledge of regs to do the job properly.

Thanks.

sullivk

Hi all, we are buying a new build house and hoping to have a solid fuel stove installed in our sitting room. The house is timber framed and has no chimney.

The only external wall of the sitting room is to the front of the house, could we install here with an external flue at the front? Would this require planning permission? Thank you!

Shefwedfan

sullivk wrote: »

Hi all, we are buying a new build house and hoping to have a solid fuel stove installed in our sitting room. The house is timber framed and has no chimney.

The only external wall of the sitting room is to the front of the house, could we install here with an external flue at the front? Would this require planning permission? Thank you!

I guess you are in housing estate? If so from what I was told that if you are changing the front of the house so it is different to other houses then you will require planning.

sullivk

Shefwedfan wrote:

I guess you are in housing estate? If so from what I was told that if you are changing the front of the house so it is different to other houses then you will require planning.

Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is in a housing estate. I have heard that about changing the appearance at the front, although I think there are some exceptions - like you can build a porch to the front so long as it is within specified dimensions etc. I am just wondering if there are any exceptions for adding a flue.

mrtom

If there was no seal between the flexi liner top and the chimney flue, would that cause draught / smoke issues with the stove ?
I read something about equalising air pressure, got lost soon after that !!

rpmcs

No if Flexi flue is installed correctly it will not change air between pots and flexible. The Flexi will work independently from clay pots.
That is why it is recommended....a new sealed pipe though clay pots even if clay pots are cracked or leaking..

Shefwedfan

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok looking for some advice, have a stove in main room. There was a leak in it and it was coming down pipe. Tried to take photos. I thought it would have been problem with chimney at top. Only happens with really heavy rain. Anyway finally got up on roof and doesn't seem to be any issue up there. Got a builder up there with me as well.

Just wondering what to do? should I just replace the whole flue system?

Also the water is all black from the flue liner and has stained the stone work. Any ideas what might clean it off? Thanks
Thanks.......

Ok sorry to bring this back up. I promise will be final time.

So I replaced the cowl. It is special version to increase the draw. So I fired up stove. Not a drop of rain around.

Left it lighted and new cowl is adding extra draw but the bloody thing is dripping. I have no idea what issue is now. There is no rain so why would it be dripping? Took pic if, not sure if you can see the water waiting to drip

Any idea's?

Indestructable

Hi,

I had a new stove installed about 2 weeks ago. Twice now I have noticed water in the ash trays below the grate. I have lit the stove 10 times or so without water being present. I have checked the plumping and it seems fine.

Can anyone suggest why there would be water here?

Thanks.

Jimmy Garlic

Has anybody bought from valuestoves? What is the quality like?

Joe1919

Indestructable wrote: »

Hi,

I had a new stove installed about 2 weeks ago. Twice now I have noticed water in the ash trays below the grate. I have lit the stove 10 times or so without water being present. I have checked the plumping and it seems fine.

Can anyone suggest why there would be water here?

Thanks.

There could be a leak in the welded seams of the boiler so I presume you (or a plumber) should try to check for this and take the matter up with the stove retailer if this is the case as its a new stove.

wiseman123

When we bought our house 20 years ago, it had two fireplaces, both fitted with gas fires at the time the house was built. The gas piping was under the ground and just appears inside the fireplaces, so we have no idea where the pipe is coming from.

We are now thinking of removing one of the gas fires and replacing it with a dual fuel stove. We were told that if the gas was isolated and the stove was fitted, unlike an open fire, this would be ok. Any recommendations?

andrewryanis

Ive just moved into a new house and we are looking to get a stove installed.

We have spoken to three different people who sell and install these stoves and we have had 3 different opinions.

The room is 15ft x 15ft approx. With an existing fireplace and wooden surround.

The first installer said we should get a 5-6kw free standing stove and just block off the existing fireplace.

The second installer told us to get an 8kw stove that would push some heat from the living room out into the hall heating more of the house.

The third said we would need to completly remove wooden fire surround becuase legally there needs to be 24 inches between the stove and the surround on all sides. We would also need to extend the hearth by 1ft so they recommended and inset stove.

Personally I want a free standing stove pricewise we want the quality available. I am even more confused after speaking to the 'experts' than I was before. Any advice would.be appreciated.

coco0981

Is it ok to install a stove with the following setup. Take the flue out of the rear exit horizontally by the 150mm allowed. Then a 45 degree bend to go through external cavity wall. Once outside another 45 degree bend to go up wall. Want to avoid vertical flue out of stove if possible