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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Cathellen wrote: »
    Hi, was searching posts to see what I could get on the Lismore. I have one installed for 2 years and I am so disappointd with it. I get very little heat to the room and the radiators are just warm. I burn coal and wood. The stove itself never gets really hot...it's possible to put your hand on it. What could I be doing wrong. My room is a double room but even if you sit up close to the stove it's no warmer. I would love to get this sorted.

    How much fuel are you burning in it?
    You can only get out of a heating system what you put in the first place, minus what is lost in the process. So think about how much space you're trying to heat and what amount of fuel you're using, turn off some rads maybe.

    How long do you have it lit each day?
    As far as I can see, solid fuel heating works best when the house is occupied on a 24/7 basis or at least when the stove is lit and running in winter from early afternoon. If you are out all day and only lighting for a few hours in the evening, then oil or gas boiler may suit better?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭Cathellen


    I often light fire from early aftenoon and keep a good fire going...I never turn damper down. I turn on oil heating first to heat rads but stove mot able to keep them hot. Heating 10 single rads. Biggest dissapointment is that there's very little radiant heat from stove....no point sitting closer to it to be warm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,251 ✭✭✭pippip


    I had a disappointing year with my stove too the first year I had it. This year I'm much happier.

    Things I'm doing different this year are -

    Fill it with as much fuel as possible, I kept putting in what i "thought" was plenty of fuel.

    Keep the top vents open as much as possible, last year I kept closing them as the stove felt cold when I opened them but once the fire gets going it overcomes this and its much hotter to touch. More air means more heat, you have to balance this with how quick the fuel is burning.

    DONT buy cheap wood, this year I got a large order of hardwood and its much much better. I kept buying cheap logs from the local store last year which I know now are a waste of time. Also ovoids stove coals in with the wood.

    Not sure if you have the option but I have mine set to start heating the rads at 60c. Had this at 55c before as that's what the installer left it at and was always too cold.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    Cathellen wrote: »
    I often light fire from early aftenoon and keep a good fire going...I never turn damper down. I turn on oil heating first to heat rads but stove mot able to keep them hot. Heating 10 single rads. Biggest dissapointment is that there's very little radiant heat from stove....no point sitting closer to it to be warm.

    The boiler takes away a proportion of the heat as it normally wraps around the firebox. But you should have a hot top and front throwing out heat.

    If the priority is to have nice radiant heat being thrown out, perhaps consider replacing with a non boiler model. We have a small Waterford stove in a sitting room and it's very good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭Cathellen


    Thanks for all that. I will experiment and hopefully I'll crack it otherwise I feel like taking it out and putting in an non boiler like I have in the sitting room....it's brilliant!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭Cathellen


    I too have small Stanley in sitting room and find it brilliant. I'm very tempted to change to non boiler in the other room but have to convince other half!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Cathellen wrote: »
    Thanks for all that. I will experiment and hopefully I'll crack it otherwise I feel like taking it out and putting in an non boiler like I have in the sitting room....it's brilliant!

    We had a boiler stove which was a useless room heater. I knew we were doing everything right (dry fuel, good draw, insulated house, good plumbing) so it could only have been one thing - a sh*t stove. So i was determined to get it right and I put in an Inis Stove last March. An Inis Meain to be exact. And we havent looked back. Room is baking, plenty water, could not be happier. Wife had given up on the project. She now thinks its one of the best things we've ever done. Its so hot, she now goes around in a t-shirt - Im not complaining ;)

    There are plenty stoves out there that are just crap room heaters - too much heat drawn away from the combustion chamber by the cooler returning water. If you read Inis's website and brochures - they have thought about this and their stoves show it. Re-designed their stoves to achieve much better balance with a boiler area on the top but NOT wrap around. And the results are there to be seen.

    Assuming you have everything else right, then its the stove. Check Inis out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,201 ✭✭✭Macspower


    I'm planning on installing a stanley oisín shortly and just working on placement. I have no choice but to come out through the wall using the rear flue option.

    My question is what is the maximum distance I can install it from the wall. Don't forget on the outside it will be making a 90 bend and going up the wall. In other words . whats the max distance before the 90% bend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    150mm /6" by regs ....what I'd recommend is either out top and then out wall at 45° with tee piece
    You could go out the back and do same but you get more heat out of some of the flue exposed in room.
    But when you ask I'd strongly advise in getting some one that has some training to install solid fuel ..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 639 ✭✭✭funnyclub


    Guys had my insert boiler stove fitted a few weeks ago and theres a pipe from the attic out through the back of the house, I think it comes off the overflow tank. Anyway it's nearly constantly dripping water when the stove is on, why would that be?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    funnyclub wrote: »
    Guys had my insert boiler stove fitted a few weeks ago and theres a pipe from the attic out through the back of the house, I think it comes off the overflow tank. Anyway it's nearly constantly dripping water when the stove is on, why would that be?

    Suggest you go look in the attic and figure exactly where the pipe is coming from and what it's connected to. Was it always there or part of new install? Did you have a solid fuel system before this install etc?

    Systems vary, in our case we have two overflow pipes from the attic - one from the cold water storage tank and the other from the small header tank that supplies and allows for expansion etc. in the hot water system.

    If the pipe connects to the cold water storage tank, then clean out/ fix the ball cock valve but a leak from that is very unlikely to be connected to running the stove.

    If the pipe connects to a small header tank, I'd guess you suspect that the hot water in your system is expanding and running back into the header tank (which it should if the water gets too hot), which then overflows and would drip. However as far as I know this should only be a very occasional occurrence, I guess it depends on how much pipe height/ run there is for expansion before the tank is reached. Is it a bungalow?

    Your system may well be different, either way shouldn't be happening as far as I know.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 639 ✭✭✭funnyclub


    BarryD wrote: »
    Suggest you go look in the attic and figure exactly where the pipe is coming from and what it's connected to. Was it always there or part of new install? Did you have a solid fuel system before this install etc?

    Systems vary, in our case we have two overflow pipes from the attic - one from the cold water storage tank and the other from the small header tank that supplies and allows for expansion etc. in the hot water system.

    If the pipe connects to the cold water storage tank, then clean out/ fix the ball cock valve but a leak from that is very unlikely to be connected to running the stove.

    If the pipe connects to a small header tank, I'd guess you suspect that the hot water in your system is expanding and running back into the header tank (which it should if the water gets too hot), which then overflows and would drip. However as far as I know this should only be a very occasional occurrence, I guess it depends on how much pipe height/ run there is for expansion before the tank is reached. Is it a bungalow?

    Your system may well be different, either way shouldn't be happening as far as I know.

    Hey Barry its from the small header tank that was fitted as part of the stove upgrade. It starts dripping when ever the stove is lit.
    The plumber is coming back one of the days to take a look anyway but I just wanted to know myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭redoctober


    Hi there. I've got a problem with a Yeoman Devon double sided. It's in a room that's 25 by 12 feet. It's set into chimney breast in centre of room. There's not much space above the canopy of the stove. That could be a factor.

    There's good draught. Fire will burn well but for the size of room it should be toasty but isn't at all. There is heat when you really get it going but goes through a lot of fuel with poor return. If I open the doors there's plenty of heat. Thanks for any advice as it's frustrating and I've asked a few stove places but not convinced by suggestions. It's a second hand stove by the way.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭k123456


    Hi Folks, can anyone recommend a good cowl,

    I find with the last few stormy nights , you can feel the wind "coming down the flue",


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,385 ✭✭✭murph226


    I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW stove for free and am looking for info and advice on whether or not its suitable for my needs.


    Its in ok nick, the grate is burnt out, theres a couple of handles missing and some of the rope needs refitting/replacing.


    The room I hope to use it in is around 21x21 feet with little or no insulation in the walls (2ft stone) with a 15ft vaulted ceiling.


    There is a double sided fireplace in the centre of the room, I have cleaned the chimney and lit a test fire but the draw is very poor and I'm having problems with smoke.


    The plan is to fit the stove into one side of the fireplace, it will only be a temporary measure for a year or too until I can afford to renovate the room, there is central heating in the rest of the house, I would just like to get some heat into this room as well.


    So, can anyone tell me if 8KW is ok for this room?


    Also, should I replace the burnt out grate with a genuine replacement or would I get away with welding something up myself?


    TIA


    Murph


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Vote 4 Pedro


    murph226 wrote: »
    I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW stove for free and am looking for info and advice on whether or not its suitable for my needs.


    Its in ok nick, the grate is burnt out, theres a couple of handles missing and some of the rope needs refitting/replacing.


    The room I hope to use it in is around 21x21 feet with little or no insulation in the walls (2ft stone) with a 15ft vaulted ceiling.


    There is a double sided fireplace in the centre of the room, I have cleaned the chimney and lit a test fire but the draw is very poor and I'm having problems with smoke.


    The plan is to fit the stove into one side of the fireplace, it will only be a temporary measure for a year or too until I can afford to renovate the room, there is central heating in the rest of the house, I would just like to get some heat into this room as well.


    So, can anyone tell me if 8KW is ok for this room?


    Also, should I replace the burnt out grate with a genuine replacement or would I get away with welding something up myself?


    TIA


    Murph

    I have a 8kW room heater stove in a 18 x18 feet room with a 16 foot vaulted ceiling, I know it's not quite the same as yours but it's similar, the 8kW stove is fine in our room, can get to hot sometimes but just takes a a while, 20-25 mins or so to get the room nice and toasty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,385 ✭✭✭murph226


    I have a 8kW room heater stove in a 18 x18 feet room with a 16 foot vaulted ceiling, I know it's not quite the same as yours but it's similar, the 8kW stove is fine in our room, can get to hot sometimes but just takes a a while, 20-25 mins or so to get the room nice and toasty.



    Thanks, is the room insulated?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,015 ✭✭✭Vote 4 Pedro


    murph226 wrote: »
    Thanks, is the room insulated?

    Reasonably, house is 15 years old, but we have a window in the room which is about 8'6" x 13' high and it's really bad (MJ) and it's drafty as hell and so that loses a lot of heat, our stove is a Dru55mf, only had it in about a month and it's really transformed the room and also the house is warmer altogether.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 302 ✭✭tcif


    murph226 wrote: »
    I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW....

    We actually had one of these in our last house, in a 6x4m room with probably medium insulation. Anyway, the heat out of it was incredible when it got going, it would have heated twice the space (and often did when we opened the doors into the kitchen) and we only ever used wood and turf. Not great vents so not the best stove for controlling the rate of burn but full marks for heat.

    The rope is easily replaced, any shop selling stoves will have it and adhesive for it. Can't help you with the grate as never had to replace or repair one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭bogman


    Looking for advice please, are the Blacksmith Anvil and the Stanley Oisin non boiler stoves reasonably similar or is there a reason to go for one rather than the other? thanks in anticipation


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,398 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    Hi

    The stove installers surrounded our inset stove with vermiculite 'Skamolex' board on the sides and back of the empty fireplace. Then somebody (not me :) ) painted the board with the same vinyl paint that's on the chimney breast.

    Now when the stove gets hot, there is a horrible chemical tippex-like stink. I'm reasonably sure it's the paint. A:its not heat resistant, B: the smell never happened before it was painted.

    Now Im wondering what to do. I already have bought three new skamolex boards, but I was thinking of my options

    1: Get a heat gun and try to remove the paint from the skamolex board.
    2: Get a stove installer in, and re-do the job. Problem with that is, the fireplace was plastered after the stove was installed. Replacing the board and touching up the plaster, just wouldnt look right

    Advice appreciated!
    2015_12_16_08_03_07.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    The wife's at home now with new baby twins so chewing through the coal and blocks at an alarming rate the house is 3 bed semi 14 years old and want the stove to go in the existing fireplace so off i went to my local established stove shop with young kids a free standing stove is out of the question so i looked at the stovax riva 50 insert looks great i gave the guy in the store the details of my existing fireplace and he siad that the fire insert would have to be replaced with a new one which i had anticipated asked him if he could call to my home to give a quote sure no problem but he could give me a rough quote now grand says i
    the stove is €1550 + fitting includes all materials and fully lined and replacement of fire insert at €1850 total = €3,400 now i fully realise that with two men and all materials for the day costs are incured but this to me seems expensive or does it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭BarryD


    We'd have children and free standing stoves - they soon learnt not to touch them! Seriously though, that's learnt quickly but the main danger is a child stumbling against a lit stove. And it's just a matter of having a suitable guard in the same way as you'll protect your stairs with a gate. Your ordinary spark fireguard is no good but you can get a 'nursery guard' which will enclose a stove for around €30-40. Our kids are teenagers and older now but we still use the guard in the sitting room. So maybe this is of help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 302 ✭✭tcif


    €3,400 euro to supply and install a 7kw stove? That's beyond expensive, it's extortionate! I've no experience with cassette stoves (only freestanding and insert) and I don't know anything about your set up at home so maybe I'm missing something but that sounds crazy money to me.

    For comparison, we have a Henley Achill 6.7kw insert and they're about €800 and it's a brilliant little stove. Paid about another €1,400 with it for a new fireplace and fitting of both last May.

    Shop around, would be my advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,725 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    We had tiwns - our gas bills were huge that winter €700 for 4 months (one 2 month bill was €400). 20 year old house - not the coldest or warmest. We just had it on an awful lot.

    But it passes after 1 winter - winter bills back to sub €200 and probably sub €800 for the entire year.

    So not really worth it.

    For me get the stove if you love that open fire smell, the look, care about the environment but retrofitting one won't save you loads of money - as the costs are large, then you've to clean the flue regularly, buy wood etc.

    I think it would be a different story if the house was really old and cold.

    This is a fantastic stove guard btw

    http://www.babydan.com/page1073.aspx?recordid1073=189


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,092 ✭✭✭BeepBeep67


    I had a stove fitted before Christmas and the advice and cost of fitting varied greatly. Shop around and get some recommendations locally for neighbours.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Skippy along


    So much for shopping local going to have a shop around and see thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,092 ✭✭✭BeepBeep67


    So much for shopping local going to have a shop around and see thanks

    To put it into context, we saved €400 on the stove and about another €400 versus the average cost of the quotes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭krahsrekop


    Hi,
    Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 58 ✭✭krahsrekop


    Hi,
    Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.


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