Halfords Own Brand Oil?

notel70

Hammertime wrote: »

haven't read the whole thread I'm just picking on one point I saw.

ANYONE who pays €50 for an own brand oil is off their rocker.

I'm currently selling a 4.5l own brand 10w/40 semi synth for €20. And I'm making 6 quid a bottle.

€50 is dick turpin stuff

which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil

mondeo

notel70 wrote: »

which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil

What about SHELL motor oils? The Helix bunch? Their ok I used them before as they were readily available. Cars ran lovely and smooth with them but I don't use them anymore. Keep going back to the over priced Castrol stuff for some reason.

BeardyGit

notel70 wrote: »

which is exactly why no one has mentioned buying oil at petrol stations, crap selection of crap oil

Ah now there's branding influence at its very best, isn't it? The level of ignorance on this thread with regard to oil qualities and brands is astounding.

There's real science at work when it comes to oil production, specification compliance and application, and to assert that petrol stations sell crap oils just because they may be own brand or whatever is foolish and naive.

In order for an engine oil to meet a particular specification the oil is subjected to a range of scientific tests, to ensure it 'does what it says on the tin'. This covers things like the shear rating, suspension properties for contaminants etc. No matter what the brand, if it meets the spec, it's up to the job required of it for that spec oil.

Who sticks their label on it and how much the sheep-like motorist masses are prepared to pay for it more often than not has NOTHING to do with the actual quality or suitability of the oil.

If your oil changes are frequent and appropriate to the useage of your vehicle, the only thing that really matters is that the oil meets the specification set out by the manufacturer. If they state it should meet a particular ACEA rating, comply to 505.01 or whatever, then pick an oil that meets this spec and be done with it. Any more you decide to spend on a short-life consumable is a pure waste of money for the average motorist, driving average cars, with average engines and lifespan.

If it meets the spec it'll do the job it's required to do. Oil isn't some kind of magic elixer that'll keep your car running forever. It'll wear out anyway in other ways, so what's the point in paying stupid amounts of money for fully synthetic oils with super-duper additives when the life of the car has a limit in any case?

If you want to know more, read Ed Hackett's summary which is published here:

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Ed's a chemist who spent decades working for the motor oil industry in the USA. If he says it's so, it's so.

There's another article here that relates to motorcycle engine oils but I've found it to be a nice introduction in the past for folks who know sweet **** all about engine oils:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Good luck.

notel70

RoverCraft wrote: »

Ah now there's branding influence at its very best, isn't it? The level of ignorance on this thread with regard to oil qualities and brands is astounding.

There's real science at work when it comes to oil production, specification compliance and application, and to assert that petrol stations sell crap oils just because they may be own brand or whatever is foolish and naive.

In order for an engine oil to meet a particular specification the oil is subjected to a range of scientific tests, to ensure it 'does what it says on the tin'. This covers things like the shear rating, suspension properties for contaminants etc. No matter what the brand, if it meets the spec, it's up to the job required of it for that spec oil.

Who sticks their label on it and how much the sheep-like motorist masses are prepared to pay for it more often than not has NOTHING to do with the actual quality or suitability of the oil.

If your oil changes are frequent and appropriate to the useage of your vehicle, the only thing that really matters is that the oil meets the specification set out by the manufacturer. If they state it should meet a particular ACEA rating, comply to 505.01 or whatever, then pick an oil that meets this spec and be done with it. Any more you decide to spend on a short-life consumable is a pure waste of money for the average motorist, driving average cars, with average engines and lifespan.

If it meets the spec it'll do the job it's required to do. Oil isn't some kind of magic elixer that'll keep your car running forever. It'll wear out anyway in other ways, so what's the point in paying stupid amounts of money for fully synthetic oils with super-duper additives when the life of the car has a limit in any case?

If you want to know more, read Ed Hackett's summary which is published here:

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Ed's a chemist who spent decades working for the motor oil industry in the USA. If he says it's so, it's so.

There's another article here that relates to motorcycle engine oils but I've found it to be a nice introduction in the past for folks who know sweet **** all about engine oils:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

Good luck.

Good points there

My car needs 0W-30, and im not afraid to spend my hard earned money on one of the most important things that a car uses. My car doesnt get used that often but when it does it gets driven hard(once warmed up and within reason) so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.

I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.

dr.fuzzenstein

notel70 wrote: »

Good points there

My car needs 0W-30, and im not afraid to spend my hard earned money on one of the most important things that a car uses. My car doesnt get used that often but when it does it gets driven hard(once warmed up and within reason) so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.

I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.

I like it, though not all 10w40 is crap.
Pray tell where you buy your oil in bulk? I usually get 30 litre drums, but a source for a better bargain is always appreciated.

mfceiling

Lads i've a 2004 nissan kubistar van with 140,000 miles on the clock.
I'm ready for an oil change soon and was wondering what oil to use.
I don't mind spending a few quid on decent stuff.
Is there an oil for higher mileage diesels or is a fully synthetic oil good to go.
It's the 70 bhp 1.5dci engine

MidlandsM

mfceiling wrote: »

Lads i've a 2004 nissan kubistar van with 140,000 miles on the clock.
I'm ready for an oil change soon and was wondering what oil to use.
I don't mind spending a few quid on decent stuff.
Is there an oil for higher mileage diesels or is a fully synthetic oil good to go.
It's the 70 bhp 1.5dci engine

check the owners booklet if you have it.

amm2

Guys,

Anybody knows/have experience where to buy Motul or Amsol oils? Not willing to get it from ebay or sites I know nothing about;
Interested in 5w30 fully synthetic 504-507;


Cheers

MidlandsM

amm2 wrote: »

Guys,

Anybody knows/have experience where to buy Motul or Amsol oils? Not willing to get it from ebay or sites I know nothing about;
Interested in 5w30 fully synthetic 504-507;


Cheers

why do you need this exact brand?
whats wrong with getting it from ebay from a 100% feedback (or nearly 100%)seller and paying by payapl to keep you protected?

grudgebringer

For my tuppence worth, I would expect that as already mentioned here many times, providing the Oil meets the specification required by the Manufacturer, i.e. 10W-40 etc, then the brand has little impact as long as the Oil service duration is not exceeded.

I guess for some brands, they manufacture their oils to last longer without viscosity becoming too high for proper lubrication. I would expect, as extra attention and expense has been given to these oils, that they would cost more, but for the generic oils that are rated as 5W-30 etc they meet the exact standrad they are required to meet.

So - if you change the oil in your vehicle with the required specification oil at the required intervals, then IMO halfords oil would do the same job as lets say a castrol/Helix oil of the same standard.

Personally, even though all this is said, I still use Castrol oil by personal preferance, I have tried various different oils but feel the car runs better with Magnatec oil. This may very well just be a figment of my imagination as I have never had any specific problems when using other oils rather than Castrol, I have even used the Shell Helix oils and was pleased with the performance.

notel70

notel70 wrote: »

Good points there

................so im not going into my local Top or topaz buying own brand 10w 40 crap.

.

You seem to have missed the points in the article, if your car needed 10w40 why is Topaz own brand 10w40 crap ?

PaulKK

notel70 wrote:

I buy my oil in bulk have a nice 60ltr barell of Castrol in the shed.

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

I like it, though not all 10w40 is crap.
Pray tell where you buy your oil in bulk? I usually get 30 litre drums, but a source for a better bargain is always appreciated.

Where are ye getting the oil in bulk lads and how much is it costing?

groupb

grudgebringer wrote: »

For my tuppence worth, I would expect that as already mentioned here many times, providing the Oil meets the specification required by the Manufacturer, i.e. 10W-40 etc, then the brand has little impact as long as the Oil service duration is not exceeded.

I guess for some brands, they manufacture their oils to last longer without viscosity becoming too high for proper lubrication. I would expect, as extra attention and expense has been given to these oils, that they would cost more, but for the generic oils that are rated as 5W-30 etc they meet the exact standrad they are required to meet.

So - if you change the oil in your vehicle with the required specification oil at the required intervals, then IMO halfords oil would do the same job as lets say a castrol/Helix oil of the same standard.

Personally, even though all this is said, I still use Castrol oil by personal preferance, I have tried various different oils but feel the car runs better with Magnatec oil. This may very well just be a figment of my imagination as I have never had any specific problems when using other oils rather than Castrol, I have even used the Shell Helix oils and was pleased with the performance.

My mx5 suffers less from sticky/noisy tappets since I swapped from mobile 1 to magnatec. I have to honest , I thought the magnatec was just a marketing exercise but I decided to give it a go once and it has made a difference.