GOLF GTI ENGINE REPLACEMENT

miss_daisy

eireal wrote: »

Have you tried IVI? http://www.iviengines.ie/

nope, but I will do now... Thank you

bryaner

miss_daisy wrote: »

I gave it to the main dealer Peugeot garage (my Dad deals there) and they told me i need a new short block/bottom end. Do you think I should get a second opinion? or do you think its just not needed?

A lot of garages don't bother repairing and opt for a short motor (block, shaft pistons, conrods, oil pump) It is the easier option and more expensive but probably the best. But for a cheaper option I'd have someone pull the shaft out and see what condition it is in and is it still within grinding tolerance, if so it would be the cheaper route to getting back on the road..

cantdecide

Mechanics are lazy and just want an easy life and it would be a shame to have to bastardize quite a nice car if you don't have to. Take the problem to a few places and tell them all what you're being told elsewhere. If it were me, unless the expense is outrageous, I'd fix it if I could.

Where are you based?

miss_daisy

bryaner wrote: »

A lot of garages don't bother repairing and opt for a short motor (block, shaft pistons, conrods, oil pump) It is the easier option and more expensive but probably the best. But for a cheaper option I'd have someone pull the shaft out and see what condition it is in and is it still within grinding tolerance, if so it would be the cheaper route to getting back on the road..

God, Id be delighted if it could be repaired, as Im doing a Postgrad course at the moment and as you can imagine, the funds are at an all time LOW!! I will try to get a decent mechanic to have a look at it and see what they sat... Any idea how much the repair job would or should be?

miss_daisy

cantdecide wrote: »

Mechanics are lazy and just want an easy life and it would be a shame to have to bastardize quite a nice car if you don't have to. Take the problem to a few places and tell them all what you're being told elsewhere. If it were me, unless the expense is outrageous, I'd fix it if I could.

Where are you based?

Hey, Im from Kilkenny (the car is there!) although Im living in Limerick during the week, and home most week ends????

bryaner

miss_daisy wrote: »

God, Id be delighted if it could be repaired, as Im doing a Postgrad course at the moment and as you can imagine, the funds are at an all time LOW!! I will try to get a decent mechanic to have a look at it and see what they sat... Any idea how much the repair job would or should be?

Ill have a guesstimate of around €700.

miss_daisy

bryaner wrote: »

Ill have a guesstimate of around €700.

Whopee.... Thatd be within my budget at the moment, so if that proved to be do-able, itd be great... Should i be charged to get the shaft out and checked?

Apologies for all the questions...:eek:

cantdecide

miss_daisy wrote: »

Should i be charged to get the shaft out and checked?

You do have to go through an exhaustive decision making process. The problem is that once you get this far, you're pretty commited to this method of repair or at least, that particular garage.

If you decide to definitely go down the repair route, make sure you are dealing with a well equiped garage/ engine specialist with suitably qualified and experienced technicians (I don't mean you should go to a main stealer, btw). At least this way, you give yourself the best chance of making the best decisions if things don't unfold in your favour.

If I were you, I'd start a new topic asking "best engine specialist for a GTi in Kilkenny".

bryaner

miss_daisy wrote: »

Whopee.... Thatd be within my budget at the moment, so if that proved to be do-able, itd be great... Should i be charged to get the shaft out and checked?

Apologies for all the questions...:eek:

Good bit of work involved, it could be roughly checked in situ with the sump off but ideally best checked on the bench. Try and get a decent mechanic he will explain all to you and wont rip you off.

miss_daisy

cantdecide wrote: »

You do have to go through an exhaustive decision making process. The problem is that once you get this far, you're pretty commited to this method of repair or at least, that particular garage.

If you decide to definitely go down the repair route, make sure you are dealing with a well equiped garage/ engine specialist with suitably qualified and experienced technicians (I don't mean you should go to a main stealer, btw). At least this way, you give yourself the best chance of making the best decisions if things don't unfold in your favour.

If I were you, I'd start a new topic asking "best engine specialist for a GTi in Kilkenny".

Yes, Ill do that now and see what responses I get. I do know a mechanic that is usually pretty good and not a rip off.. he's from Carlow, so I might give him a shout and see what he says?

miss_daisy

bryaner wrote: »

Good bit of work involved, it could be roughly checked in situ with the sump off but ideally best checked on the bench. Try and get a decent mechanic he will explain all to you and wont rip you off.

Yeah, Ill do that at the week end and see how I get on...

Thanks for your advice

Ferris

miss_daisy wrote: »

OK, I just looked up both Eddie Torrens and Quiggs numbers and Im going to give them a call... Ill let you know how I get on! And by the way, what you said about the oil feed hoses sounds familiar to me, so I can take some peace of mind in knowing that my friend knew what he was at!! Out of interest - Does replacing the oik feed hoses warrant a bill of €500 coming my way or were there big windows??!

Don't know about the cost but, as you mentioned, removing the engine and putting it back in takes a lot of time, 10hrs plus i'd imagine so 500 doesn't look too bad.

If you're from Kilkenny and based in the south there is no point travelling to the north for an engine if its avoidable. Better off to sit down with the yellow pages and systematically work through the breakers section looking for an engine. Shortly after I got the engine off Eddie Torrens a friend found a lower mile engine in portlaois for less money than I spent all in, I should have been more thorough with my search.

Just to mention that that engine can be found in A3's, seat leons and skoda's in the same configuration (Passats, A4's, A6's and TT's have the same basic engine but mounted differently). You will need to get the correct engine code however, that will be on your registration document.

cantdecide

Ferris wrote: »

Just to mention that that engine can be found in A3's, seat leons and skoda's in the same configuration (Passats, A4's, A6's and TT's have the same basic engine but mounted differently). You will need to get the correct engine code however, that will be on your registration document.

Or it will be on a white sticker in the boot, around the spare wheel well. It'll probably just be three letters. The last VAG car I had, had an engine code "ACK"

Ferris

cantdecide wrote: »

Or it will be on a white sticker in the boot, around the spare wheel well. It'll probably just be three letters. The last VAG car I had, had an engine code "ACK"

Yep forgot that one.

OP - there's a place in cork thats breaking a GTi:

http://www.partfinder.ie/cork-car-dismantlers/listvehiclesforbreaking.pl

miss_daisy

cantdecide wrote: »

Or it will be on a white sticker in the boot, around the spare wheel well. It'll probably just be three letters. The last VAG car I had, had an engine code "ACK"

Yeah, Ive gotten the engine code, its an AUM?

kona

Ferris wrote: »

Just to mention that that engine can be found in A3's, seat leons and skoda's in the same configuration (Passats, A4's, A6's and TT's have the same basic engine but mounted differently). You will need to get the correct engine code however, that will be on your registration document.

Thats messy, while the engine may be the same, the mounts,, clutch engine ancillaries maybe different!
If you do change it you will have to update your Log book with the new engine number. There is probably issues with insurance too.

The best option is to take the original engine out and get it fixed IMO, less hassle and probably cheaper, also buying a 2nd hand engine is mad unless your 110% confident, you have no idea of the condition or even mileage on the engine, you could be dropping 2k to replace one problem with another.

miss_daisy

kona wrote: »

Thats messy, while the engine may be the same, the mounts,, clutch engine ancillaries maybe different!
If you do change it you will have to update your Log book with the new engine number. There is probably issues with insurance too.

The best option is to take the original engine out and get it fixed IMO, less hassle and probably cheaper, also buying a 2nd hand engine is mad unless your 110% confident, you have no idea of the condition or even mileage on the engine, you could be dropping 2k to replace one problem with another.

Ive located an engine in Dublin (Swords) its from an 03 GTI with 78000miles on it, I think its a place that tows and scraps cars for the Gardai. They will give a 7day warranty with it and the price doesnt include the turbo, but I dont know if I need one?

Would I be foolish to put a different engine in on my older turbo?

Mr Benevolent

miss_daisy wrote: »

Ive located an engine in Dublin (Swords) its from an 03 GTI with 78000miles on it, I think its a place that tows and scraps cars for the Gardai. They will give a 7day warranty with it and the price doesnt include the turbo, but I dont know if I need one?

Would I be foolish to put a different engine in on my older turbo?

Your 1.8T is notorious for oil supply problems, and these problems affect the turbo worst of all. Putting your old turbo back in is a recipe for disaster. I agree with kona above, have the engine rebuilt or sell the rolling shell.

How much is it ? Can it be seen running ? Could someone do a compression test on it for you before you buy it ?

Confab

Confab wrote: »

Your 1.8T is notorious for oil supply problems, and these problems affect the turbo worst of all. Putting your old turbo back in is a recipe for disaster. I agree with kona above, have the engine rebuilt or sell the rolling shell.

So you are recommending the turbo is overhauled too ? That's another few hundred, the turbo may well be fine.

kona

RoverJames wrote: »

So you are recommending the turbo is overhauled too ? That's another few hundred, the turbo may well be fine.

In fairness, If the engine has seized, and its already had a Low pressure problem previous, its more likely that the Turbo is damaged than not.
If you want the job done right its expensive, and cheaper to do everything at once.
You could stick the old Turbo back in, but your risking damaging the replacement engine and going back to square one, Id be trying to find out what caused the issue in the first place, oil just doesnt dissapear.:)

PanhardPL

Confab what do you base that on, do you speak from personal experience or just small talk.

I.8T VAG lump is known for being prone to sludge issues.

And an inspection of the turbo should show any signs of wear, overheating, issues with seals. I wouldn't get it reconned for the sake of it, turbo recon is quite expensive.

Mr Benevolent

RoverJames wrote: »

So you are recommending the turbo is overhauled too ? That's another few hundred, the turbo may well be fine.

No, I'm recommending that the turbo not be put in another engine. My post above was a bit misleading.

Ferris

As a precaution you could get the turbo reconditioned but its probably going to cost as much as one from the breakers.

A good mechanic can tell if a turbo is knackered. It will have oil inside the turbine housing, an excessive amount of play, end float or bent/cracked blades.

miss_daisy

RoverJames wrote: »

How much is it ? Can it be seen running ? Could someone do a compression test on it for you before you buy it ?

Theres one in a Breakers in Dublin with 72000miles for €700 a 7 day warranty!!! Also one in Cork available for 800€ and a 2 month warranty. I dont think either of these are still in the cars, so I dunno if a compression test could be done? I never heard of a compression test nor do I know what it is, so I didnt ask - to be honest. if I could do one or get one done on an engine I was thinking of buying, and it was ok, should I feel a little less nervous bout handing over the cash??

miss_daisy

Ferris wrote: »

As a precaution you could get the turbo reconditioned but its probably going to cost as much as one from the breakers.

A good mechanic can tell if a turbo is knackered. It will have oil inside the turbine housing, an excessive amount of play, end float or bent/cracked blades.

As far as I know the turbo is ok... well the Peugeot main dealer didnt tell me otherwise but I suppose I should have that confirmed before I go ahead...

miss_daisy

kona wrote: »

In fairness, If the engine has seized, and its already had a Low pressure problem previous, its more likely that the Turbo is damaged than not.
If you want the job done right its expensive, and cheaper to do everything at once.
You could stick the old Turbo back in, but your risking damaging the replacement engine and going back to square one, Id be trying to find out what caused the issue in the first place, oil just doesnt dissapear.:)

Yes, I know what you mean here... I did have the car checked out once the engine died and they didnt say I needed a new Turbo but I suppose I should call them tomorrow and double check!:o

Neilw

miss_daisy wrote: »

As far as I know the turbo is ok... well the Peugeot main dealer didnt tell me otherwise but I suppose I should have that confirmed before I go ahead...

Did thay remove the turbo to confirm this? A replacement turbo wouldn't be too expensive, the engine being an AUM points at it being k03s turbo, slightly harder to come by.

miss_daisy

miss_daisy wrote: »

Theres one in a Breakers in Dublin with 72000miles for €700 a 7 day warranty!!! Also one in Cork available for 800€ and a 2 month warranty. I dont think either of these are still in the cars, so I dunno if a compression test could be done? I never heard of a compression test nor do I know what it is, so I didnt ask - to be honest. if I could do one or get one done on an engine I was thinking of buying, and it was ok, should I feel a little less nervous bout handing over the cash??

Yep, a compression test it easy to do, can be done after the engine is installed in your car. You could mention to the engine seller that you would require a refund and labour costs covered if the engine is muck. Any one selling an engine for €700 / €800 should really be confident that it's fine and should have no bother with a request like that.