The Defender thread

banjolin

Lights sorted. Replacement multi switch (horn/indicators/headlights). The plastic seat for the headlight power supply to the switch melted, possibly because I was using my headlights a lot in foul weather. Shouldn't happen but is apparently common. Getting steering wheel off is a dose. Putting it back on straight is also a dose. Must investigate proper daytime running lights.

By the way, it wouldn't start because I had partly dislocated the plug that links the ignition to the fuel pump while fluting around behind the binnacle. Be careful of those four wires on the ignition; they are not as tight as you may think.

Marlow

Finally scratched my Defender itch recently, when I bought this one ... in Finland



It's an original irish one actually (February 1985), that had left the country. Rebuild completely about 4 years ago by a previous owner, who also had the original chassis galvanised and sporting a Mazda SLTi under the bonnet.

I bought it in January, but it took until March before I managed to get to Finland to pick it up. Had some issues on the way home, so I left it in Denmark while I got those sorted and finally brought it back over end of May/start of June. A bit of fettling to be done, but overall very well spec'd.

/M

banjolin

Looks very nice. What gearbox has it got? I think that engine has a lot more torque than any land rover unit, bar maybe the V8.

Mycroft H

Hopefully the R380

Marlow

banjolin wrote: »

Looks very nice. What gearbox has it got? I think that engine has a lot more torque than any land rover unit, bar maybe the V8.

Mycroft H wrote: »

Hopefully the R380

NAS spec R380, which was fully rebuild, when the Mazda was put in. AP Racing clutch which is rated for 400 Nm. 1.6 ratio on the transfer case.

The Mazda's are known to tear Land Rover gearboxes apart, if they're worn, at the point where the engine transplant is done.

The engine is spec'd with 350 Nm @2000 rpm and 135 bhp at 3450 Nm. Supposed to be governed at 3650 Nm, but rev's happily beyond that .. not that that is a good plan.

It'll do 100 km/h happily all day long with those ratios and can be pushed to 120 km/h, but I'll be looking into an overdrive eventually, as I drive quite a bit distance. 26k miles on the clock since it was rebuild, so it's still fairly fresh. And i've done the 5k miles of that.

/M

101sean

1.6 ratio transfer box is too low, change it for a 1.41 or even a D2 1.22 box if you'll never tow.

Don't be tempted by a GKN overdrive if you are offered one, they were never up to the job, if have one gathering dust in my shed after I fitted disco tbox instead. The Roamerdrive is supposed to be pretty robust but is expensive.

Suckler

I had an issue with the Turbo on my TDCi defender. got new one and performance is back to normal but some oil got in to the exhaust & cat and she is kicking out some black smoke as a result. Online searches give two options - drive until it burns all the oil out the exhaust or take off the exhaust to soak in petrol/carb cleaner - anyone every had this issue?

Slideways

Oil in the exhaust should burn more blue than black. So long as you're not bothered by the look just give it a good hard drive, it'll clear our pretty quickly once it gets good and hot

banjolin

banjolin wrote: »

What to look out for when buying a defender? Where do you start? Others may have more to add but here's my suggestions.

I have a 05 TD5 90 XS. I have owned it since 2006. For seven or eight years all I ever had to do was service it. Then it just seemed like things were queueing up to go wrong.

It has air con (doesn't work) and winter pack which includes heated screen (doesn't work) and seats. It also has ABS and Traction Control. Avoid this if possible. If it goes wrong, which mine did, you can buy a decent car for what it costs to repair, unless you are willing to make big compromises. Mine got banjaxed and I have replaced it with a unit from a Discovery 2. Straight swap. It has central locking and I had to replace the rear door lock, which is silly money for what it is. That's the XS model specifics.

The steering pump has been replaced, not hugely expensive. Always worth a look in the breakers yard.

Recently replaced the indicator switch. Quick fix.

I had to replace a rear wheel bearing a few years ago. Check for any leaks around the wheel hubs.

Check the wipers return to a sensible position and are working properly. Repairs here are a huge pain in the arse. Trust me.

It leaks water all over the place. Check around the rear tub and bulkhead for rust. Remove the grab handle on the left of the dash if allowed to check the inside top of the bulkhead there, and check the wiper motor while you're at it.

The auxiliary belt (fan, aircon etc) squeals like a pig when damp. I have replaced the tensioner but it didn't help much. Its the only issue I haven't resolved.

Check for diesel underneath. There may well be oil leaks from the engine or the diff etc. but if there is diesel you may need to check the fuel pressure regulator. Google it.

Check the trailer electrics if fitted. If the plug is rusty inside the truck may have been wading regularly. Defenders can wade big water but you really shouldn't do it. Water can get in to places that are not immediately obvious and sit there doing its worst or get sloshed around the engine compartment by the rather large fan. I think that is what did for my ABS.

Very early TD5 chassis' may have started to rot and you should really check the rear section thoroughly. Outriggers are also prone. Rust generally happens from the inside out so trucks that look good cosmetically could be hiding all sorts of ****e. Bring a sheet of cardboard and a torch and get underneath.

You will need to replace suspension bushes eventually and it is worth bearing in mind that all replacement rubber bushes (even original Landrover supplied ones) are now made by Britpart and they are crap. I took a punt on the yellow Polyurethane bushes from Britpart and I can't believe how good they are. Improved the ride no end. Who'd have thunk it?

While it sounds like a lot of grief, apart from the ABS issue it has been a fairly pain-free relationship. All cars, even modern ones, need repairs. After nearly ten years of ownership I could probably get two thirds of what I paid for my truck tomorrow if I sold it in the UK. For all their faults there is a huge and devoted fan base, so expect to pay big money for a good one, or get the tools and wallet out for a fixer upper. Most parts are available from breakers, so big projects shouldn't put you off if you are up for one.

Its worth noting that very few TD5 Defenders were sold in Ireland through official channels and they have really only become popular here in the last five years, so there are very few mechanics who really know their way around them. Mine does now because he has spent so much time under my one and I have educated him, but it is worth seeking out someone who knows what they are doing. Otherwise they can cost big money to repair or maintain.

I remember what it was like to finally buy a Defender so I am a little jealous. Good luck with the purchase.

I'm just adding to this, as I have recently had to deal with another common bug: oil in the ECU. Symptoms were engine misfiring, refusing to start or cutting out while driving (scary). I discovered online that this would be typical behaviour of an oily ECU and that's exactly what I had. It is due a well known failure of a sealed grommet in the injector harness, and Land Rover even issued a circular about it in 2000. Oil leaks through the grommet and down the engine loom to the ECU at the red plug. It can go undetected without symptoms and it can destroy the ECU. Cost just over a €100 for a new injector harness and a rocker cover gasket and its a half hour job. Should probably be checked regularly, but definitely before a purchase. Just lift the drivers seat and pop the red plug on the ECU.

I should also add that while I said replacing an indicator switch is quite easy, you have to remove the steering wheel to do it, and that can be a right balls of a job. If you use your headlights a lot you will need to replace the switch sooner or later because it is very badly designed a prone to overheating and melting.

Most of the above issues should be evident from a thorough visual inspection and a short drive. All are fairly easily repaired so if they have not been dealt with then knock the price accordingly. However, you may want to consider if these have not been sorted has the truck been neglected in areas you can't easily check.

Expect a drive to be bouncy. They are rated to carry half a ton in the back (90s, not sure about 110s) so the springs are hard. Bouncy but not harsh or clattery, in which case bushes may need replacing.

roman0red

Hey guys - I have a 03TD5. I have recently changed pads Front and back and also changed brake calibers in the front

I've used mintedx pads all round - brakes are screeching like mad.

Any suggestions as how I can fix screeching brakes.

Kids refusing to travel in the jeep until I get them fixed.......��
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

banjolin

You will need to know whether it is the front or back that is screeching. If you are unlucky changing any brake parts can open a hornets nest and it could be the new pads, the old discs or the callipers. If it is the front with the new callipers it could be anything. If it is the back then maybe new callipers will sort it because there is no screech at the front. There is no easy answer. Its going to be trial and error I fear. You will read a lot about the quality of certain pads etc. but generally I would suggest it is down to the interplay between old parts and new.

O.A.P

roman0red wrote: »

Hey guys - I have a 03TD5. I have recently changed pads Front and back and also changed brake calibers in the front

I've used mintedx pads all round - brakes are screeching like mad.

Any suggestions as how I can fix screeching brakes.

Kids refusing to travel in the jeep until I get them fixed.......��
Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Copper grease on the back of each pad might be the easy fix.
Assuming you have not already done this when changing them .

Suckler

Slideways wrote: »

Oil in the exhaust should burn more blue than black. So long as you're not bothered by the look just give it a good hard drive, it'll clear our pretty quickly once it gets good and hot

Clocked up 600kms and the smoky exhaust seems to have solved itself, even passed its annual test without issue.....but now its making a strange whine from somewhere....Sounds like a bearing.

brianiac

Howdy - learned to drive on a landie 200tdi 90 and have yearned for one since, though no mechanic. Thinking of getting one - viewed one a little while ago which seemed to have sig. rust issues to chassis in particular and parts of the body as well. Anyone know of a land rover rebuilder/mechanic who'd be willing to view it with me again with respect to attempting to determine how much is actually salvageable / cost of doing it up etc? Obviously they would be reimbursed for their time regardless. Dublin area.
I've been goggling around though england seems to be the preserve of them.
thanks

banjolin

You could try https://www.facebook.com/LR-Services-Straffan-281075711955342/?fref=ts

Don't know him. Just seen his page on bookface and he seems to know his stuff.

brianiac

Thanks! have emailed him, will see if he gets back to me.

101sean

Dave Feely is sound but he'll charge you commercial rates to look at it. If it's rusty it will be a money pit!

Don't get on here so often now as I'm back in the UK mostly. Shipped my 110 back there but it recently ate the Tbox and main box on the M6 so I sold it on as is, fed up with it. Still have a Lightweight and 101 to keep me amused though!

foxy farmer

O.A.P wrote: »

You need a new wheelbox probably (that's the cog, shaft and the housing they come in) and if you take the cable off at the motor and turn it 180 degrees the other side of the splines will engage with the cog.


I replaced both wheelboxs on mine before Christmas and when I put it all back together it was worse .
After a lot of trail and error plus a good bit of swearing I but the new part in the vice pushed the top of the housing 2 or 3 mm closer to the cog and it solved the problem.


Hope this helps good luck with it.

Finally got around to tackling this this evening. Had wheelbox got but have now discovered that the cable is damaged (spiral spacing is wrong at wheelbox positions) and when I took it out to check it i found that the spiral is cracked as well. So I'll have to ring main dealer in the morning to see if they have one in stock. So much for having it sorted tonight.

MedusaV8

I have a question. We moved back two years ago and brought two Land Rovers with us. Both are currently on commercial. However the 1986 90 is 30 in Oct and I would like advice on whether it is necessary to re class as a private vehicle to avail of classic insurance/tax? It is currently declared off the road as we now have a second car. We can't make much sense from the forms to re-classify and aren't even sure if it is really necessary once she is 30. Any advice is welcome.

Suckler

Defender related question but not mechanical - A friend of mine is getting married and wants a defender as the wedding car. He says he found one on the net but they won't allow self drive. Does anyone know where he could hire defenders? Thanks

banjolin

This question has come up a few times on boards but the short answer is no, not in Ireland. A few places in the UK but mostly lease hire. Best suggestion is get friendly with a Defender owner and bung him a few bob to sort the insurance cover.

Being a long-term Defender owner (daily driver) I really struggle to see the attraction of this vehicle as a wedding car. There is a strong possibility that he will split his trousers getting into it and heaven only knows how the bride will get in and out with any decorum much less fit her dress in fairly limited space of the front passenger seat. I have to bring a small kitchen step with me when I take my mother to get her pension.

Suckler

banjolin wrote: »

This question has come up a few times on boards but the short answer is no, not in Ireland. A few places in the UK but mostly lease hire. Best suggestion is get friendly with a Defender owner and bung him a few bob to sort the insurance cover.

Thanks. All the research they do on the net confirms that the UK is more popular for this but not here.

banjolin wrote: »

Being a long-term Defender owner (daily driver) I really struggle to see the attraction of this vehicle as a wedding car. There is a strong possibility that he will split his trousers getting into it and heaven only knows how the bride will get in and out with any decorum much less fit her dress in fairly limited space of the front passenger seat. I have to bring a small kitchen step with me when I take my mother to get her pension.

He drives a defender daily as well but lives abroad so not an option to use his own. They're both well used to the access and space issues! She's all for the defender, she cant'stand the usual "classic car" being wheeled out on the big day!

banjolin

Brave lass.

I have a friend who has a clutch of classics that he wanted to hire but he just could not get insurance. Having said that if you look here there might be something of interest in the self-drive section.

No defenders though.

foxy farmer

Is it possible to top up the grease on the front axle swivels on a td5 defender?
They look dry on top. Reading the haynes manual doesn't shed a whole pile of light on one shot grease.

stock>

foxy farmer wrote: »

Is it possible to top up the grease on the front axle swivels on a td5 defender?
They look dry on top. Reading the haynes manual doesn't shed a whole pile of light on one shot grease.

Yes same as the older models

Marlow

MedusaV8 wrote: »

I have a question. We moved back two years ago and brought two Land Rovers with us. Both are currently on commercial. However the 1986 90 is 30 in Oct and I would like advice on whether it is necessary to re class as a private vehicle to avail of classic insurance/tax? It is currently declared off the road as we now have a second car. We can't make much sense from the forms to re-classify and aren't even sure if it is really necessary once she is 30. Any advice is welcome.

Nope ..

Just go to the tax office to tax it, tell them it's vintage now, fill out form to change particulars, tax it at 56 EUR/year, be happy.

I brought a 110 truck-cab back from Finland last year, that was originally irish .. after having gotten the replacement logbook (and it back on irish plates), it was that simple. All in one visit to the tax office.

/M

Suckler

https://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/landrover-defender/14468081

My eyes are bleeding.

emaherx

Suckler wrote: »

https://www.donedeal.ie/commercials-for-sale/landrover-defender/14468081

My eyes are bleeding.

There is nothing wrong with a little bit of checker plate, but you need to be careful there is a fine line between too much and just enough!

Think this guy might have crossed the line by just a ...........

Slideways

And it's not cheap either!

Imagine the horrors that are lurking under all that :eek:

foxy farmer

An abomination is what that is. Fair enough there was work put into it but it's just wrong wrong WRONG.