The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

angrybeaver

garv123 wrote: »

We have .75 acre of site with .5 acre of grass, I cut it in an hour and 10 mins with a push mower with very little effort using a mulching mower.
Plenty advised that Id need a ride on but funds don't allow at the min.
Might be a cheaper option until you're in a position for a better ride on.

Thanks, the mulching mower is a great idea I’d just fear you need to keep on top of it more. Mine being half as big again I’d be looking at 1hr 45mins to cut and Would need to do it very regularly. I will look into the suggestion. Thanks

angrybeaver

deezell wrote: »

Go used, if you want a decent ride on sub €900, or else a big walk behind like this
https://www.raygrahams.com/products/149415-proplus-56cm-self-propelled-petrol-lawnmower-with-briggs-stratton-motor.aspx

If going used sub €900 what would be the best machine for the money. I know it’s down to condition too but any i should avoid? Stick with Castelgarden etc? Thanks

deezell

angrybeaver wrote: »

If going used sub €900 what would be the best machine for the money. I know it’s down to condition too but any i should avoid? Stick with Castelgarden etc? Thanks

There's not huge choice at this time of year. Try the dealers, donedeal, adverts.
Something like this perhaps.
https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/ride-on-lawnmower/24812906
You really have to go and see, bring someone who might know a bit about them.

Ubbquittious

Anyone get a yellow lidl mower lately? Picked one up the last day for 250e but havnt tried it yet. Engine is less than 3hp, they had a slightly more powerful one but those were all gone

garv123

angrybeaver wrote: »

Thanks, the mulching mower is a great idea I’d just fear you need to keep on top of it more. Mine being half as big again I’d be looking at 1hr 45mins to cut and Would need to do it very regularly. I will look into the suggestion. Thanks

I always have the collection box for when I get lazy and skip a few days :pac:

angrybeaver

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/25284007

This guy is selling this and a yardman 17hp

He’s local enough so will take a look at both. Lining up someone to come with me that knows more than me which wouldn’t be too hard. Anything to look for or are these models/brands ok?

deezell

angrybeaver wrote: »

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/25284007

This guy is selling this and a yardman 17hp

He’s local enough so will take a look at both. Lining up someone to come with me that knows more than me which wouldn’t be too hard. Anything to look for or are these models/brands ok?

The JD is a Castelgarden TC102, from back when JD were so expensive they badged the (then) budget priced Italian jobs. Maybe a 2004 vintage. I sold a 20yr old CG identical to this a few years ago, working great, but plenty of maintenance over the years.
Once the engine checks out, no smoke, decent compression in a hand turn, the other things to check in this is wear on the front steering pinions, play on the front axle joint, rust on the deck, and especially rust in the inner metal chute. It's a manual drive, so check drive belt ( it really needs the pricier Kevlar wrapped type so the clutch doesn't snatch). Check the differential for all the bolts in place on the big sprocket, they can shear due to sudden hard clutching. Blade engage lever also, the hinged mechanism under the wheel cover can crack, giving s spongy feeling, which will eventually fail to pull the cutter belt tight enough.

The yardman looks the better buy, bigger engine, CVT belt drive, cast front axle?, electric blade clutch, non synchronous twin deck, which uses a single belt, no expensive timing belt and more forgiving of clatters against rocks, herbs, roots etc.

Haggle, see which one he discounts more, the JD name might fool some, but it's an older basic CG, worth maybe €600 in CG red.

angrybeaver

deezell wrote: »

The JD is a Castelgarden TC102, from back when JD were so expensive they badged the (then) budget priced Italian jobs. Maybe a 2004 vintage. I sold a 20yr old CG identical to this a few years ago, working great, but plenty of maintenance over the years.
Once the engine checks out, no smoke, decent compression in a hand turn, the other things to check in this is wear on the front steering pinions, play on the front axle joint, rust on the deck, and especially rust in the inner metal chute. It's a manual drive, so check drive belt ( it really needs the pricier Kevlar wrapped type so the clutch doesn't snatch). Check the differential for all the bolts in place on the big sprocket, they can shear due to sudden hard clutching. Blade engage lever also, the hinged mechanism under the wheel cover can crack, giving s spongy feeling, which will eventually fail to pull the cutter belt tight enough.

The yardman looks the better buy, bigger engine, CVT belt drive, cast front axle?, electric blade clutch, non synchronous twin deck, which uses a single belt, no expensive timing belt and more forgiving of clatters against rocks, herbs, roots etc.

Haggle, see which one he discounts more, the JD name might fool some, but it's an older basic CG, worth maybe €600 in CG red.

Agree The yard man is more appealing. Would you be worried about the kohler engine rather than B&S? probably harder get parts for the yardman?

deezell

angrybeaver wrote: »

Agree The yard man is more appealing. Would you be worried about the kohler engine rather than B&S? probably harder get parts for the yardman?

If it's running well, and the oil is reasonably clean and has been changed, I'd be happy with it. Check the compression by rotating the engine by hand, two hands on the top spinning filter. Should be good resistance, you can gauge how quickly the chamber pressure leaks away if piston/rings are worn or valves are leaking. It's not the most scientific test, but comparing it to a new engine, you'll get an idea. Kohler are a well known brand. I wouldn't be worrying about sourcing engine parts, if you're looking for those you're already in deep doodoo, as there's very few trivial parts to a mower engine that don't mean total failure, I'm not counting carburettor, starter, exhaust components, (check the latter for rust and holes).
Most mower engines would fail for want of regular oil changing or topping up, and on an old rideon or push mower even, it could be more than it's worth to rebuild the engine.
Give the YM mower a similar going over as I suggested for the JD/CG. Check out wheel bearings also, a small bit of play is tolerable. Soggy steering is significant issue, if the entire train from rack to arm to track rod and pivots are worn, it will be tiresome to use. The ball joints on the arm and track rods are cheap and easy to replace though, pinion bushings too.
Check the long non synchro deck drive belt along its length for any chunks knocked out of it, you should be able to pull it through manually.
Check the seat hinges for cracks also.
Wear depends on how much work it's done, and on how rough the terrain. You're not looking for perfection, but just trying to avoid an annoying wear related failure early into used ownership.

deezell

And if you're worried about parts in general, here's the UK supplier and diagrams for the 2006 version, and all other variation to 2009. The one for sale is 2006-7
http://www.yardmanspares.co.uk/yard-man-lawn-tractors/an-5170/13bw504n643-2006

This would have been a budget priced mower also, despite its large cut. It's shares it's genes with this MTD model, same transmatic drive and non sync deck.
https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/mtd-smart-rn-145-lawn-tractor-with-transmatic-transmission-and-grass-collector-p-5550.html
If the YM was €2600 new, and it's a 2007 model, I'd expect it to have depreciated to about €600, but if its done very little work, then a price between 600 and asking is a reasonable opening bid. Good luck!

angrybeaver

deezell wrote: »

And if you're worried about parts in general, here's the UK supplier and diagrams for the 2006 version, and all other variation to 2009. The one for sale is 2006-7
http://www.yardmanspares.co.uk/yard-man-lawn-tractors/an-5170/13bw504n643-2006

This would have been a budget priced mower also, despite its large cut. It's shares it's genes with this MTD model, same transmatic drive and non sync deck.
https://www.agrieuro.co.uk/mtd-smart-rn-145-lawn-tractor-with-transmatic-transmission-and-grass-collector-p-5550.html
If the YM was €2600 new, and it's a 2007 model, I'd expect it to have depreciated to about €600, but if its done very little work, then a price between 600 and asking is a reasonable opening bid. Good luck!

Didnt get down to see the 2 machines I linked but went to see the one in the link below. Very impressed seemed very tight and the engine fired up and idled very well. The belt system for the blades seemed very simple and it moved freely by hand. Deck looked solid. He small time deals in them. Seemed straight enough so I did a deal with. Collecting it tomorrow.

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/25288940

willietherock

Hi
doing a DIY oil change on a push mower. Empting oil out by tipping over mower. Do I have to empty petrol tank first?

deezell

willietherock wrote: »

Hi
doing a DIY oil change on a push mower. Empting oil out by tipping over mower. Do I have to empty petrol tank first?

Good idea, it can flood through the carb into chamber then into the sump otherwise. There's a sump plug on the bottom to drain it.

Daz_

Hi . Does anyone know why a twin blade ride on mower would be leaving a trail of grass uncut , looks like right in the middle of the cutting area ? Would it be due to deck height unbalanced ?

Thanks

Daz_

Hi . Does anyone know why a twin blade ride on mower would be leaving a trail of grass uncut , looks like right in the middle of the cutting area ? Would it be due to deck height unbalanced ?

Thanks

Kencollins

I would guess that the edges of the blades have been dulled. It happened to me when I clipped a stone, the very tip of one of the blades had been bent and was leaving a line of grass uncut.

Daz_

Kencollins wrote: »

I would guess that the edges of the blades have been dulled. It happened to me when I clipped a stone, the very tip of one of the blades had been bent and was leaving a line of grass uncut.

Thanks for that .

Was that a repair or replacement job ?

Kencollins

Repair if you are able to get the blades out! I just put the blades on the bench and dremmeled the cutting faces until they were sharp again. A garden shop would probably do a better job but I didn't have the time to bring them in. The last time I had the shop do the blades they were in a rough way. The shop said they could sharpen them no problem, and only cost 15.

CryanGame

Hi. Looking at getting a new/second hand ride on lawnmower. Budget is around €3k. Would need it to cut three separate lawns around 2 acres in total and don't want the cutting that wide as there is some narrow parts. What model would ye recommend or any deals?

Kencollins

CryanGame wrote: »

Hi. Looking at getting a new/second hand ride on lawnmower. Budget is around €3k. Would need it to cut three separate lawns around 2 acres in total and don't want the cutting that wide as there is some narrow parts. What model would ye recommend or any deals?

I guess you need to go out with a tape and measure the narrowest gap it needs to go into. 2 Acres is enough of ground, you will want the widest machine possible!

Is the ground bumpy and uneven or smooth? I use the biggest Husqvarna petrol ride on (TC342T) and I find the uneven ground I have is harder on the machine than just cutting a big area.

Doctors room ghost

CryanGame wrote: »

Hi. Looking at getting a new/second hand ride on lawnmower. Budget is around €3k. Would need it to cut three separate lawns around 2 acres in total and don't want the cutting that wide as there is some narrow parts. What model would ye recommend or any deals?

Try and put another grand with it and buy yourself something new and decent.Forget the second hand.could be a bag of trouble.2 acres is a lot of grass.Maybe look at the new castelgardens and look into getting a mulching kit for it to speed up the cutting and save you bagging it.
If you buy keep it serviced regularly

CryanGame

Kencollins wrote:

Is the ground bumpy and uneven or smooth? I use the biggest Husqvarna petrol ride on (TC342T) and I find the uneven ground I have is harder on the machine than just cutting a big area.

Kencollins wrote:

I guess you need to go out with a tape and measure the narrowest gap it needs to go into. 2 Acres is enough of ground, you will want the widest machine possible!

Thanks for you reply. The ground would be mostly even but does have a few rough spots. That is why I taught the narrower cut would be better. The narrowest part is 50 inches but this part can be done with push lawnmower either. I will pay a visit to the shop tomorrow and check them out. Thanks

jmreire

You wont go astray with either a new or s/h Honda 1724, they are well able for big lawns, ( even ones that are a bit on the rough side ) plus will easily fit within your 50" limit. Either Husqvarna or Honda would be my choice anyway.

Doctors room ghost

Castelgarden xt190hd twin cut with mulching blades and plug is a decent set up

deezell

98cm cut for under €3k, Alpina BT 98 , really only rated for one acre of grass, 4000m2. https://www.glanbiaconnect.com/shop/product/Alpina-BT-98-Hyrdostatic-Ride-on-Lawnmower/9098271

If you have twice that area, you'll need to add a grand as advised, a little more width and a good bit more power. You can go for this bigger superior Alpina (they're Castelgarden in white), for slightly over budget in NI, https://www.amrentals.ie/Ride_on_Lawnmowers/alpina-at8102hcb.htm , about €3350, V twin engine, and 102cm cut.

For a massive step up, this 110cm V twin 21hp Stihl for €3900 will eat 2 acres, and fit into 50" strip. https://monaghanhire.com/products/sthil-rt-5112-z

mengele

CryanGame wrote: »

Thanks for you reply. The ground would be mostly even but does have a few rough spots. That is why I taught the narrower cut would be better. The narrowest part is 50 inches but this part can be done with push lawnmower either. I will pay a visit to the shop tomorrow and check them out. Thanks

My advice would also to be taking the size of the bag into the equation. You don't want a big lawnmower with a small bag if you have to do 2 acres. You would be constantly emptying it.

When looking at mowers I would look at the following in this order.
1. Get the biggest cutting width you can which will still fit your lawn. If 50 inch is the narrowest I'd get a 48 inch cut machine.
2. Look at bag sizes for all those 48 inch machines you have picked out and get the one with the biggest bag capacity.
3. Horsepower. Generally the go is well matched with the cutting width nowadays so that's not a big worry.

My recommendation would be to look at castlegarden 1st.

deezell

You won't get a 48" cut machine for €3k! Or €5k for that matter. €5k will get you the Honda 40" mentioned. The Stihl 43" I linked earlier is €3750 here, https://www.fitzhire.ie/tractors/250-stihl-rt-5112-oz-mower.html.
For that price biggest cut, engine and bag at 360l. If your budget is fixed at €3k, then there's this used version of the Stihl from a Dealer, when it was known as Viking, €2850 before haggling. Premium quality of construction, you should get a warranty with it.
https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/viking-lawnmower-second-hand/25339954

CryanGame

jmreire wrote:

You wont go astray with either a new or s/h Honda 1724, they are well able for big lawns, ( even ones that are a bit on the rough side ) plus will easily fit within your 50" limit. Either Husqvarna or Honda would be my choice anyway.

Hi Jmreire. Is this Honda 2417 you mentioned? I think I will go with the Honda 2317 or Honda 2417. Thanks everyone for their advice. It was very helpful.

Bravobabe

Do you really want a ride on mower?
Imagine you could buy a used decent car for the cost of a lawnmower (my friend is trying to sell a Merc 180C with near full NCT for €1200).
Exercise: the exercise to be got using a walk-behind mower is beneficial and you can see the problems or weak areas.

Cut the grass often as this promotes thicker/bushier plants, do not cut the grass too low (in the hope you will not have to cut it again for a while). Regular cutting and treatment (feeding/watering, adding golden pitch sand (n.b. without lime) raking, removing moss & stones will improve the surface over a period of time. This can often be done in sections over a period of time, maybe starting nearer the house.
Heavy Rolling is not really recommended anymore as it compacts the soil and inhibits root growth. No matter how good your mower is, moss and weeds will appear in areas (better to embrace them as part of nature, rather than trying to eradicate them).


Ride-ons
Countax/Westwood with sweeping brushes: We used one of these on a soccer pitch and it gave a fantastic finish. soccer pitches need a good grass covering for summer and winter. The model was an antique but was very reliable (eg. https://shanleymowers.net/products/tractor-mowers/countax/). We now use a Kabuta with a hydraulic lift for tipping the grass. This is a great machine, much quicker but still not as good as finish as the Countax/Westwood sweeper. Some people don't like them as there are more belts to power the sweeper, but once your mechanic knows what he is doing, it is not an issue.

Be prepared (unless you or your husband are good with engines, all mowers will need to or should be serviced / repaired each year at an average of €200 - €300).


Push Mowers
You could consider a walk behind cylinder mower (again these are more expensive than rotary mowers).

At home I have about 1/4 of acre. But would not be suitable for a ride on. I use a rotary mower, takes about 30 mins to cut the grass twice a week. Some will come with a small roller or flap to give that stripped effect or you can add a roller kit.

Check out your local hire centre or lawnmower seller. Perhaps hire a ride-on (or get a lend of one) and see what ye think.
If you can get a good used machine, it will be somewhat cheaper.

Best of luck

deezell

Are you seriously suggesting he mows 2 Acres, about 8000 m2 with a walk behind cylinder mower? Mowing rate at a brisk 5km/hour, 50cm cut, and 20% allowance for overlap, corners, curves, obstacles, bag emptying and refueling would be 2000 m2 in an hour. Only another 6000 m2 and 3 hours to go.