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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,120 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    One niece has that and another is in the process. Using the correct piping it shouldn't be an issue IWT.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    ecowise wrote: »
    It is feasible but not desirable from an efficiency point of view as there is heat loss to the external ground even with good insulation. If you need to heat both it is probably best to place it closest to where there is the biggest heat demand (presumably the house) and insulate the supply to the other location as best you can with insulated district heating pipe. It is not difficult to estimate your energy losses if you know the basic thermal parameters of your setup.

    If you over design the pipe centres for the garage and keep the temp on that zone as low as possible then the delta T heat loss wont be massive, you could get the water down to 25 or less, against soil of say 10 so not like if were oil or gas at 85 or 90

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi
    What is the main function of the garage aside from storing cars .. I would potentially a tad more economical to have a frost protection heater you check can check screwfix for examples.. not that underfloor heating is impossible but it seems a tad overkill. Heat loss between the garage and the house is to be considered and you potentially need a separate loop for the garage with some thermostat on it to avoid your heat pump working overtime to heat up a place that is rarely used. I assume you are insulating the garage ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 82 ✭✭Perez2017


    I recently moved into new house with a heat pump. All going grand but last few days a wheezing noise has been coming off my indoor unit, sounds like a washing machine. Is that normal?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,939 ✭✭✭threeball


    Perez2017 wrote: »
    I recently moved into new house with a heat pump. All going grand but last few days a wheezing noise has been coming off my indoor unit, sounds like a washing machine. Is that normal?

    I'd say it has Covid.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    What is the make of the indoor unit?


  • Registered Users Posts: 82 ✭✭Perez2017


    JonMac wrote: »
    What is the make of the indoor unit?
    Dalkin, good make apparently.


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭zoom_cool


    Does anybody know anything about the Red UHE Heat Pumps they look good.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭CrazyFather1


    Looking for some advice and found this website. My brother has a Thermia Atrium A2W heat pump which was installed about 15 years ago. It just gone bang and to repair it will cost 6k+. It is not worth repairing so he wants to buy new.
    Of course loads of advice but wondering what is the current best brands in market? he was recommended to stay away from Panasonic because the wiring.
    The guy from Thermia said not to buy the same ones because the invertor goes in them
    Just looking for some advice?
    He was also thinking of swapping to a 16kWh but does that not mean he needs to run 3 phase?


  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭Biker1


    Looking for some advice and found this website. My brother has a Thermia Atrium A2W heat pump which was installed about 15 years ago. It just gone bang and to repair it will cost 6k+. It is not worth repairing so he wants to buy new.
    Of course loads of advice but wondering what is the current best brands in market? he was recommended to stay away from Panasonic because the wiring.
    The guy from Thermia said not to buy the same ones because the invertor goes in them
    Just looking for some advice?
    He was also thinking of swapping to a 16kWh but does that not mean he needs to run 3 phase?

    I would recommend Mitsubishi. 16kw will probably need three phase. Why is he thinking of 16kw, has he got an SR50 calculation which shows he needs that size?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    I've got a Samsung 16kW that uses single phase.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭CrazyFather1


    Biker1 wrote: »
    I would recommend Mitsubishi. 16kw will probably need three phase. Why is he thinking of 16kw, has he got an SR50 calculation which shows he needs that size?

    He was told the old system was 12kW and he felt it struggled to heat the house. His view was bringing it up level would help heat the house better. Now the guy who was at the heat pump trying to fix thinks it is only 11kW.
    Also I would expect heat pumps have improved over the 15 years, he installed early on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭CrazyFather1


    JonMac wrote: »
    I've got a Samsung 16kW that uses single phase.

    How do you find it? easy to find someone to service it? that was a major issue for him.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭ShanE90


    +1 for Mitsubishi Ecodan they’re systems can be connected in cascade to give 16kW and beyond that even in single phase, however increasing the heat output isn’t exactly the answer of you haven’t the appropriate way of dissipating it, or if your loosing it due to poor insulation/ draughts.

    How big is the house and is it underfloor or rads ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭CrazyFather1


    ShanE90 wrote: »
    +1 for Mitsubishi Ecodan they’re systems can be connected in cascade to give 16kW and beyond that even in single phase, however increasing the heat output isn’t exactly the answer of you haven’t the appropriate way of dissipating it, or if your loosing it due to poor insulation/ draughts.

    How big is the house and is it underfloor or rads ?

    Its underfloor. 3,000sq ft. with heavy insulation.
    To be honest I think the heat pump he had installed never worked right. He always had issues with it and it was early on in heat pumps into houses. He had issues trying to find someone to service etc and even he will admit he had a nagging feeling it wasn't working. I don't think he has done a SR50 calculation but will ask.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭CrazyFather1


    Sorry to update, 3400 sq ft. He never done a SR50 on the house but high insulation in house. Cavity with insulation and then insulated slabs on the interior walls. It has a BX something rating.

    His feeling was the old system was constantly stretched and that is why considering a 16kWh. Now that is just a feeling and his preference is to oversize this time than undersize and run into problems.

    Thanks for all the advice. He is open to any system to install but would like one that would be fairly robust


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭ShanE90


    Taking the heat loss @ 50w/m2 a 278m2 house would require 13.9 Kw so 14kw system..this is an estimate and would need to be confirmed on a site visit, I would recommend a split system if possible


  • Registered Users Posts: 43 Fade Into You


    I have a feeling that you are not getting the same result with the same insulation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    My plumber used Joule Ireland, they are an agent for Samsung. They also service.


  • Registered Users Posts: 369 ✭✭Biker1


    Sorry to update, 3400 sq ft. He never done a SR50 on the house but high insulation in house. Cavity with insulation and then insulated slabs on the interior walls. It has a BX something rating.

    His feeling was the old system was constantly stretched and that is why considering a 16kWh. Now that is just a feeling and his preference is to oversize this time than undersize and run into problems.

    Thanks for all the advice. He is open to any system to install but would like one that would be fairly robust

    Doing an SR50 calculation based on the actual heat and ventilation losses is the only way of knowing what size heat pump is required. Rule of thumb does not apply when sizing heat pumps. A competent BER assessor will be able to do a heat loss survey and SR50 calc.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    My BER assessor didn't do one, kept saying the plumber can do it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,823 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Cavity with insulation and then insulated slabs on the interior walls.

    So reasonably well insulated but probably no airtight detailing unfortunately. I therefore suspect the overall heat loss is being underestimated.


  • Subscribers Posts: 41,020 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Biker1 wrote: »
    Doing an SR50 calculation based on the actual heat and ventilation losses is the only way of knowing what size heat pump is required. Rule of thumb does not apply when sizing heat pumps. A competent BER assessor will be able to do a heat loss survey and SR50 calc.

    The SR50 calculations must be done by the providers of the heat emitters.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 128 ✭✭SOR2010


    Anyone know where you could source Glycol?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,174 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    I may be looking at replacing my existing gas boiler in my apartment as it is around 15 years old and pressure has been dropping lately, as well as the temperature of the water it's heating.

    Is it worth investigating heat pumps as an option? I use very little heating as the apartment is generally quite warm. The main use would be for heating water for two people. I think I'll have the facility to place a unit on my balcony if needs be. It would be where my current gas boiler is located.


  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    I'd say not the optimum solution. Hot water is less efficient that providing heating.


  • Registered Users Posts: 512 ✭✭✭Frozen Veg


    Is a ground source heat pump worth the investment for a new build or have air to water systems caught up?

    Is there much difference in performance and efficiencies?


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,120 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Not enough of a diff if the house has a high rating. The total annual cost of heating will likely be small and having a system that's just a bit more efficient might not have a ROI on the extra capital cost.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Frozen Veg wrote: »
    Is a ground source heat pump worth the investment for a new build or have air to water systems caught up?

    Is there much difference in performance and efficiencies?

    A2W have not caught up :)
    Have fridges "caught up"?
    The science has not changed: only the heat source is different.
    Improvement in the refrigerant have improved the COP
    Couple of considerations here.
    Type of ground source collectors being considered
    Life of a W2W generally expected to be longer than A2W
    Average temperature lift in a W2W lower than A2W, hence lower running costs
    so doing the full LCCA, the choice may not be as stark.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 512 ✭✭✭Frozen Veg


    Water John wrote: »
    Not enough of a diff if the house has a high rating. The total annual cost of heating will likely be small and having a system that's just a bit more efficient might not have a ROI on the extra capital cost.

    There seems to be some horror stories going around re bills with a2w but perhaps that's all down to poor air tightness.


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