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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    On demand HW and HP's are unlightly bedfellows
    which exact model are you thinking of?
    Is it from here?
    https://www.rvr.ie/pages/about-us

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 512 ✭✭✭Frozen Veg


    BFMadden wrote: »
    Guys,

    Has anyone any experience of an Ovum heat pump and DHW system? They're an Austrian brand that is supplied and installed by Climate Control in Galway. Looks good but there's very little info on it.

    ovum.at

    Open link with Chrome to translate.

    Thanks

    Anyone use these since?


  • Registered Users Posts: 521 ✭✭✭Shaunoc


    Frozen Veg wrote: »
    Anyone use these since?

    if anyone needs a heatpump, it is you :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 BFMadden


    Frozen Veg wrote: »
    Anyone use these since?

    I have one, I'd highly recommend it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    Update on my problem. The technician updated the software and the Samsung control unit is working properly now. It used to turn on around 41.2, now it turns on at 43.
    This is what Samsung told me about the way the system works:
    The [Stop] and [Start] values that can be set in the Field Setting Values of your heat pump are the dead band the heat pump will operate with whilst the [Max Temp] is the highest temperature that can be selected for the cylinder from the user setting (front) screen.
    For example, if:
    FSV 3021 is set to 48
    FSV 3022 is set to 2
    FSV 3023 is set to 5
    Then on the “normal” control screen any domestic hot water temperature of up to 48oC can be set.
    If the desired temperature of the tank is set to 48 oC, the heat pump will start heating the tank as soon as its water temperature drop to 43oC. The heat pump will continue to operate until the tank temperature reaches 46oC then the heat pump will stop generating heat for the domestic hot water cylinder, allowing for the warmer water from the primary circuit still inside the coiled heat-exchanger in the tank to disperse its heat in to the hot water and making the cylinder reach the set point without overshooting the desired temperature.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 35 newbie_diy


    I've had a recommendation for a Panasonic 9kw Monobloc Aquarea Heat Pump with a 200L tank for my A3 Ber 160msq house. Having a read about it seems OK. Has anyone any experience of these? Are they good heat pumps.. Will the tank be sufficient for hot DHW for a 4 or 5.person household? I'm finding it hard to find info on correct cylinder size.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,120 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Another factor that may influence the size of tank is, whether you will mainly use night rate to heat it? Space heating wise, an A3 house won't need a lot of heating. Mechanical heavy recovery ventilation would also be useful in a A3 house.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    newbie_diy wrote: »
    ... 200l... Will the tank be sufficient for hot DHW for a 4 or 5.person household? I'm finding it hard to find info on correct cylinder size.

    Go bigger if the price difference isn’t much. As they say, better looking at it than for it.

    I have 300l and we need it all. Similar size family with power showers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭zoom_cool


    Anybody use Hercuglas heat pump Irish built from Monaghan


  • Registered Users Posts: 35 newbie_diy


    Water John wrote: »
    Another factor that may influence the size of tank is, whether you will mainly use night rate to heat it? Space heating wise, an A3 house won't need a lot of heating. Mechanical heavy recovery ventilation would also be useful in a A3 house.

    Was thinking that I would use night meter. Is the boost for heat similar ito an immersion n the tank that will allow you to heat water quickly if more demand for water? I know that it will cost more but may not use that ofte.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,120 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Some have a second scroll to rise the temp the second lift to a higher temp than for the space heating. The higher temp is less efficient in the HP. That means it's better to heat the tank at night.


  • Registered Users Posts: 222 ✭✭Rushy Fields


    Hi all,
    Hope someone on this forum maybe able to help me...... Does anyone have a contact for servicing a NIBE F1145 Geothermal Heat Pump? Location is Galway Roscommon Border Area. So anyone in counties Roscommon Galway Mayo Westmeath Longford or Offaly would be ideal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 818 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    Hi all,

    Any reccomendations for Technical Advisor for Air to Water Heat Pump assessment?

    Have the installer just need to get the list of reccomended works.

    Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Its a bit more than a just need to...
    Is the installer approved?
    where are you?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    I've searched and looked at about 50 posts but can't find the answer. I’d like to know how efficient my Samsung is when heating DHW to 48C. In the spec it says A2/W35 COP is 3.10. How much lower is it for 48C? Thanks,


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    JonMac wrote: »
    I've searched and looked at about 50 posts but can't find the answer. I’d like to know how efficient my Samsung is when heating DHW to 48C. In the spec it says A2/W35 COP is 3.10. How much lower is it for 48C? Thanks,

    Thats as close as you'll get to an accurate answer.

    It depends on the temp of the incoming cold water and the outside temperature (assuming its an A2W HP), so there is no one answer.

    The A2/W35 is just a guide to tell you how your HP operates under one set of conditions so you can compare it against other HP's.


  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    Is there anything in the detailed specification for my heat pump that can show the COP for a given outside temperature [yes, A2W] for heating the same incoming water to 35 or 48?
    The installer made a big point about heating to 48 was less efficient, but didn't 't know by how much.
    I've asked their technical people but no response.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    JonMac wrote: »
    Is there anything in the detailed specification for my heat pump that can show the COP for a given outside temperature [yes, A2W] for heating the same incoming water to 35 or 48?
    The installer made a big point about heating to 48 was less efficient, but didn't 't know by how much.
    I've asked their technical people but no response.

    You could, if you really want to know, put a kWh meter on your heat pump and see how much it uses when heating the DHW and calculate the COP yourself at various times of the year. Any figure a manufacturer is going to give you is probably going to be sales marketing BS.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,195 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    JonMac wrote: »
    Is there anything in the detailed specification for my heat pump that can show the COP for a given outside temperature [yes, A2W] for heating the same incoming water to 35 or 48?
    The installer made a big point about heating to 48 was less efficient, but didn't 't know by how much.
    I've asked their technical people but no response.

    it will take more juice to get to 48 than 35
    you can do the math

    volume of water by specific heat capacity by delta T and use 35 and 48

    as all the others are constant, the 48 will cost 48/35 or 1.37 times, regardless of the COP

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,120 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    'The A2/W35 is just a guide to tell you how your HP operates under one set of conditions so you can compare it against other HP's.' K Cross.

    This is comparable to the test of driving cars at a constant 56 mph. It is sort of the best the machine can do. It's an optimum.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,619 ✭✭✭Charlie-Bravo


    I'm currently reviewing heat pumps for an installation. With my limited knowledge, I'm at the point of making a decision on a system to suit a project. I've looked at regular Nibe HP system, but happened across this Coolenergy system with a internal buffer tank and external HP.

    https://coolenergyshop.com/products/cool-energy-ecostore-all-in-one-heat-pump-hot-water-system

    Looks like you get an external inverter with this internal cylinder and buffer tank system. The buffer tank will be taking air from outside, drawing it to the hotpress unit for heating DHW during summertime. The main heating for winter is via the larger external Inverter. I take it that's how the system works?

    Anyone any thoughts on it?

    -. . ...- . .-. / --. --- -. -. .- / --. .. ...- . / -.-- --- ..- / ..- .--.



  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    "as all the others are constant, the 48 will cost 48/35 or 1.37 times, regardless of the COP"

    Ah, the good old mass times specific heat times temperature change from our school days.

    Assuming the initial water temperature is 20C, then the heat required to raise the temperature of the same mass will be

    48-20 divided by 35-20, or 28/15 or 1.87 times.

    Still doesn't help me understand how much the COP changes... .


  • Registered Users Posts: 985 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    JonMac wrote: »
    Is there anything in the detailed specification for my heat pump that can show the COP for a given outside temperature [yes, A2W] for heating the same incoming water to 35 or 48?
    The installer made a big point about heating to 48 was less efficient, but didn't 't know by how much.
    I've asked their technical people but no response.

    There are often graphs in the technical manual showing outside temp on one axis and COP on the other. For my HP it has this for 35, 45 and 55 degrees. Mine is not a Samsung but they probably have a similar document for your model.


  • Registered Users Posts: 985 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    astrofluff wrote: »
    I'm currently reviewing heat pumps for an installation. With my limited knowledge, I'm at the point of making a decision on a system to suit a project. I've looked at regular Nibe HP system, but happened across this Coolenergy system with a internal buffer tank and external HP.

    https://coolenergyshop.com/products/cool-energy-ecostore-all-in-one-heat-pump-hot-water-system

    Looks like you get an external inverter with this internal cylinder and buffer tank system. The buffer tank will be taking air from outside, drawing it to the hotpress unit for heating DHW during summertime. The main heating for winter is via the larger external Inverter. I take it that's how the system works?

    Anyone any thoughts on it?

    That is just for hot water from the link you showed. They also show the COP at 15 degrees air temp so I assume it is much less efficient when it is actually cold outside.

    Unless I'm missing something you would still need a heating system


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,619 ✭✭✭Charlie-Bravo


    Mr Q wrote: »
    That is just for hot water from the link you showed. They also show the COP at 15 degrees air temp so I assume it is much less efficient when it is actually cold outside.

    Unless I'm missing something you would still need a heating system

    Yes, it duals with a HP... This is one being quoted with it:

    https://coolenergyshop.com/products/cool-energy-inverter-6-18-7kw-stainless-heat-pump-ce-ih6-18

    -. . ...- . .-. / --. --- -. -. .- / --. .. ...- . / -.-- --- ..- / ..- .--.



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,018 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    JonMac wrote: »
    "as all the others are constant, the 48 will cost 48/35 or 1.37 times, regardless of the COP"

    Ah, the good old mass times specific heat times temperature change from our school days.

    Assuming the initial water temperature is 20C, then the heat required to raise the temperature of the same mass will be

    48-20 divided by 35-20, or 28/15 or 1.87 times.

    Still doesn't help me understand how much the COP changes... .

    You need to get the fiche data of the heat pump, where it shows the different testing conditions.

    Theres generally 2 outlet water temps tested, 35deg and 55 deg. These are tested at -7, 2, 7 and 12 deg conditions.

    For example in the attached data sheet, the first daikin product has a cop of 6.77 when tested at 7degrees to get the output to 35 degrees.

    The same product, when tested under the same conditions, to get the output to 55degrees, has a cop of 4.31

    You could possible work it out pro Rata to see what it is at 48 degrees

    So you need to find this data sheet for your particular heat pump


  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭JonMac


    "For example in the attached data sheet, the first daikin product has a cop of 6.77 when tested at 7degrees to get the output to 35 degrees.

    The same product, when tested under the same conditions, to get the output to 55degrees, has a cop of 4.31"

    Thank you for the advice; my system is 6.49 and 3.73 under those conditions.

    Eyeballing my crude graph, at 10C the COP drops from about 8.5 to 5.7 so it uses about 50% more electricity.
    The reason I've been asking is because our DHW is on a recirc loop. The installer told us we should turn off the pump except when we needed hot water for a bath; as you can imagine my wife wasn't impressed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 443 ✭✭zoom_cool


    Are IVT good heat pumps looking at either this IVT Bosch brand or the Grant Aerona they work out at similar prices not sure which would be better any advice would be appreciated. The house is a new build so will be UFH through out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37 Marcevo190


    Hi all,

    Just trying to find information regarding maximum distance heat pump can be from house. I would like to put underfloor heating in my garage (will be storing cars) and to the main house. The distance from the house to the garage is about 20 metres.

    Would it be feasible to have the air to water unit located beside the garage?

    Thanks in advance!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 125 ✭✭ecowise


    Marcevo190 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Just trying to find information regarding maximum distance heat pump can be from house. I would like to put underfloor heating in my garage (will be storing cars) and to the main house. The distance from the house to the garage is about 20 metres.

    Would it be feasible to have the air to water unit located beside the garage?

    Thanks in advance!


    It is feasible but not desirable from an efficiency point of view as there is heat loss to the external ground even with good insulation. If you need to heat both it is probably best to place it closest to where there is the biggest heat demand (presumably the house) and insulate the supply to the other location as best you can with insulated district heating pipe. It is not difficult to estimate your energy losses if you know the basic thermal parameters of your setup.


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