Good result.

Quick question. You said when you removed the sights and refitted it would shift left or right. Is it constantly holding that left favoring? Of did you shoot the groups then finish off zeroing by adjusting that last 15mm to the right?

I found out some time back how little of a "fault" can make a big difference at the target when I had a similar problem and was given shimming brass. It was something like 0.25mm thick yet placing a piece front and back of my scope gave me, iirc, something like 12"+ of adjustment at 100yds, so I completely believe what you're saying.

Well glad you got sorted and thanks for updating the thread.

Between the scope tube and the inside of the ring. Bottom on the rear ring and top on the front. Didn't leave it there long, it was a simple test. I then tried under the rings and while this was more secure I could only use either the front or back, not both. So had to double up on shims which presented a secure mounting to the rail issue.

Very soon after I bought my first 20moa rail. About 13 years ago now.

Yup, hence the reason I only tested it. It prevented a secure tightening of the rings from the point of view that the ring was not clasping the scope tube, but rather the shim. It added additional pressure when tightening the rings which could have lead to crimping the scope tube, plus the shim would allow a certain amount of "slippage" of the scope in the rings if not fully tightened.

So tighten normally and I rish crimping, don't tighten fully and I risk the scope being loose in the rings.

The shim on the bases worked better and I could get, iirc, up to three shims in (at 0.25mm per shim) at a time, but it got to the point after say three where the rings would sit up higher on the rail and I'm back facing proper/secure mounting of the ring on the rail.

As said above these were all trial and error missions. I had only just started into long range stuff so it was all new to me. The 20moa rial eliminated all that with no mounting/secure issues.

At first I put it under the rings, between it and the rail. That was what caused the problem above.

Then I cut three shims, rounded them to the action, drilled a small hole through all three, placed them directly onto the action, and aligned them all so the rail would screw down through the shims into the action. This worked the best of all three methods. The only "issue" which wasn't that much, but an issue none the less, was the "reach" of the screw. While the total depth of the shim was small something about it seemed to prevent a constant locking of the rail/action screw. IOW I was constantly checking that the screw did not come loose.

Perhaps it was the "burr" from the drilled hole. In hindsight there may not have been a need to drill the shims and place them over the screw hole, but I wanted to make sure the shims wouldn't move so used the screw as an anchor point.

As said above I done all this because at the time the Savage FTR had just come out, and there were no inclined MOA rails for it. Plenty of 0moa rails and for Remington, plus other, actions. Then I found a company in Canada, Richard Near, and they offered 20 and 30moa rails, custom made, for the Savage. Ordered one and 10 days later it arrived. Job done.

Not with my Savage FTR It was a drilled and tapped receiver/action, much like other centre fire rifles, but did not come with a rail or a pre-fabricated dovetail.

I done all the above while using a two piece base system. Then bought a 0moa rail designed for it, and eventually the 20moa rail. It was a process of learning, trial & error, and most importantly trying to get something that would get me shooting.

I bought my Savage immedately after they came out. It was so new there were no accessories available here for them, so needs must.

The rifle itself? Unbelievable. One of the best, out of the box, factory rifles I have ever shot. Accurate, crisp trigger pull (even though some people would later swap out the trigger I preferred it's own) and generally an excellent rifle. Only thing that compared to it was an RPA I had which cost over 2 grand more than the Savage, just for the rifle.

Only gripes would be the palm swell/handgrip. Not enitrely suitable for someone with smallish hands, but they made it to suit everyone so no complaints really.

No idea. Wouldn't have been a seller here I'd imagine. Never seen one nor held one.

Glancing at reviews it seems a bad stock, bad barrel, poor quality in general. But as I said, no personal experience with them.

I can vouch for their other rifles having shot or owned the model 12 Palma, BTVS R93 17hmr thumbhole, their absolutely brilliant BVSS model 12 in 243 (unreal rifle), Model 10 FCP in 308, even their 223 range like the Axis. For €600 it was a cheap gun with a poor stock but overall a decent rifle.