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Detailing chat

12467130

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,343 ✭✭✭Sean Quagmire


    Mr Detail wrote: »
    Have you got a polisher?

    If you have, meguiars polishes m105 and m205 are easy enough to work with and will tackle most jobs. It just depends on the car and paint. Carpro fixer & reflect are also quite good, as are the scholl concepts polishing range.

    If you don't really have a polisher, your left with just filling them in with a glaze. Srp doesn't do a bad job of hiding swirls but really your right you need to remove them permanently.

    Thanks - no i don't have a electric polisher. have considered getting one, is there one you recommend? maybe an orbital one.

    I didn't know there was no 'apply by hand' cutting polishes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Normally the kind of polishes that you apply by hand are only glossing polishes rather than cutting. If you saw the amount of work a dual action polishing machine does to correct a patch of paintwork, you'll quickly understand why it's impossible to do a correction by hand.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    I've noticed that the car is fogging up a lot. It's a pain in the arse. Anyone have any look with a treatment for this? I've used de fogging spray on masks etc and generally not over impressed with the results.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,875 ✭✭✭Foxhole Norman


    Gordy6040 wrote: »
    I've noticed that the car is fogging up a lot. It's a pain in the arse. Anyone have any look with a treatment for this? I've used de fogging spray on masks etc and generally not over impressed with the results.

    I'd put a dehumidifier in it first to see if moisture is the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,084 ✭✭✭markc1184


    Can anyone recommend a good degreaser for cleaning brake calipers? Particularly gold Brembo calipers.

    Thanks.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,587 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Gordy6040 wrote: »
    I've noticed that the car is fogging up a lot. It's a pain in the arse. Anyone have any look with a treatment for this? I've used de fogging spray on masks etc and generally not over impressed with the results.

    Curious
    What car is it?

    Apparently Cat litter in a sock helps in a big way.
    Not sure I would loike a sock on my dash every night though :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    It happens on both my cars.
    Peugeot 308SW and Renault Clio.

    The Clio is only used for short trip and every time I get into it the windscreen is foggy with a lot on condensation.

    With the 308, its more something that happens when we've been driving for a while.
    No sure I want to go the cat litter route!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    vectra wrote: »
    Curious
    What car is it?

    Apparently Cat litter in a sock helps in a big way.
    Not sure I would loike a sock on my dash every night though :)

    It'll match the bra you wear every day :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    Dude , don't get me started. The Clio is something we've had since 2003 - the missus got it.
    I've gone from a Subaru with a nice 2.0 WRX engine to a BMW 320, that had a fantastic spec.. to 3 kids , no cash, and a family wagon that was bought based on the boot side (double buggy + shopping) and running costs.

    I'll be setting up a pay pal account, anyone who feels that they can contribute to a new motor is welcome to chip in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Has the cabin filter been changed recently? If not, change it.
    Are you using A/C in an attempt to clear the screen quickly? If yes, stop using it, it makes it worse, but yes it clears it quicker. Clean the windscreen well, change the cabin filter, use a few dehumidifier bags if the interior might be slightly damp, dont use the A/C. Should see a return to normal then!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Hi all need to d a big job on vrs and the green callipers are peeling so need to paint does anyone know where could get the green paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭quadrifoglio verde


    Hi all need to d a big job on vrs and the green callipers are peeling so need to paint does anyone know where could get the green paint.

    Halfords?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,587 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Sock can go under seats as well



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    I was giving the car a complete detail today, and used Bilt Hamber Korrosol and Orchard Auto Care Tar remover for the first time. I noticed after I used them, there were light brown streaks down certain areas of the car, and these wont come off at the claying stage. Not sure what it was caused by but could be the Tar remover?

    Has anyone come across this before or know how to get rid of it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    Pops_20 wrote: »
    I was giving the car a complete detail today, and used Bilt Hamber Korrosol and Orchard Auto Care Tar remover for the first time. I noticed after I used them, there were light brown streaks down certain areas of the car, and these wont come off at the claying stage. Not sure what it was caused by but could be the Tar remover?

    Has anyone come across this before or know how to get rid of it?

    Did you wipe the Tar away with a Microfibre cloth as your Tar remover was working?

    I havent used orchards tar remover but their stuff is all savage quality.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Pops_20 wrote: »
    I was giving the car a complete detail today, and used Bilt Hamber Korrosol and Orchard Auto Care Tar remover for the first time. I noticed after I used them, there were light brown streaks down certain areas of the car, and these wont come off at the claying stage. Not sure what it was caused by but could be the Tar remover?

    Has anyone come across this before or know how to get rid of it?

    Those streaks are proof that the tar remover worked. It melts the tar and when it starts to do this, that's when you have to wipe it in order to remove that tar. What happened in your case is that you let the tar remover dry in. Just give the area another spray and when you see it drip again, wipe it all (including the tar) off the surface.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yeah, as above, it will probably need a light misting to remove the dried in tar streaks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    Thanks guys, I'll give that a shot.

    Orchard Auto care tar remover is powerful stuff alright, but I've nearly used the whole bottle on the car! Should it last longer than that? The car did have very heavy tar spots around the arches.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    If the car was very bad, then it is possible that a large quantity of the bottle will be used. Perhaps you were a bit heavy handed with it too, if it was your first time using it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    Possibly a bit heavy handed. The sprayer that I used with it doesn't produce a mist, it comes out in a line of fluid, and I don't have great aim :pac: , so I probably ended up using way more than necessary


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  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    Pops_20 wrote: »
    Possibly a bit heavy handed. The sprayer that I used with it doesn't produce a mist, it comes out in a line of fluid, and I don't have great aim :pac: , so I probably ended up using way more than necessary

    Ya a mist will help that. With tar removers. I usually do a spray over an area. Give it a minute to work, then give another light spray, wait 30 seconds and then wipe clear. The only caution is if a tar spot remains, rather than rubbing like crazy just hit it again with a little spray.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    Ok, these streaks are proving quite difficult to remove right now. Maybe another few sprays and hopefully they will come off


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Have you got a picture of the streaks!

    Also, the sprayer is adjustable. Twist the tip, and it will change from a jet to a mist!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    Curran wrote: »
    Have you got a picture of the streaks!

    Also, the sprayer is adjustable. Twist the tip, and it will change from a jet to a mist!

    No pics sorry, the camera won't pick them up properly! They're very feint now, maybe I should give it another 4-5 sprays and that might do it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    You have to spray the tar remover on and then wipe the whole lot away with a microfibre cloth or similar. It's not just going to disappear by spraying it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    On the issue of dried in products, what is the best way to remove?

    So, polish residue ---> IPA
    Wax Residue ---> Quick Detailer *

    What about dried on TFR, Citrus Cleaner, G101, or even frozen snow foam? :pac:

    *I'm talking if you haven't worked the polish enough, to a haze, or left it dry on; broken your arm trying to buff; or you've left the wax cure too long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    IPA will break down the likes of polish and wax as they are usually oil or silicon based.

    To remove TFR or any of the other things you mentioned, just wash the car again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Polish Residue* - IPA will work, but there is also specific products like Menzerna Top Inspection, CarPro Eraser, Meguiar's Final Inspection, gtechniq Panel Wipe
    Wax Residue* - same as above, but if you mean on the paintwork, usually another light application and not letting it cure for as long will make it easier to remove.

    Dried TFR, Citrus Cleaner, G101....shouldnt be letting them dry out - same said for Tar Removers or Fallout Removers


    Polish* - but to clear it up for paintwork....obviously you dont want to remove hand polish due to their filling properties, but for machine polish, it always needs to be removed, especially if going for some of the ultra durable coatings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Pops_20


    You have to spray the tar remover on and then wipe the whole lot away with a microfibre cloth or similar. It's not just going to disappear by spraying it.

    I've been doing it that way. Spray on, leave for a few minutes and wipe away with a microfibre towel, and then wash the car again when I'm done to remove the residue.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    +1 on what Curran said about the wax residue. Another application to soften up the dried on stuff and it's fine.

    Pops - I think you might be leaving it too long so it's all drying in. just spray it and wipe almost immediately. All you're trying to do right now is remove the dried-in stuff. Once this is gone then have another go at removing the tar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    You shouldn't leave them dry, but it can happen. Apply away from sunlight, most people get that, but also very cold panels can cause drying, or frozen snow foam/lance solution / tfr.

    I'm was wondering would you nearly have to polish to remove the after effect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    To be fair, neither should happen - if snowfoam, TFR, etc get frozen to the car....what do you do when your windscreen is frozen?
    Lash a bucket of lukewarm water over the affected area! :)

    And you shouldnt be using TFR! :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,775 ✭✭✭✭Slattsy


    Anyone know anything about Keoghs
    http://www.keoghscarvaleting.com/index.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    Slattsy wrote: »
    Anyone know anything about Keoghs
    http://www.keoghscarvaleting.com/index.html

    Very nice and genuine guy and turns out good work from what I seen.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Dont know Trevor - but follow him on Twitter, and he seems to turn out some really nice work!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    [IMG][/img]jtkryc.jpg

    After washing and drying the car, i applied the Autoglym Rapid Detailer. when i was wiping it off it was leaving black spots which look like kind of tar. They disappeared when i wiped it off with the wet towel which i had used to dry the car. Any idea why that happens? I didn't leave the detailer long or anything. These marks only appeared after i wiped off detailer with a dry mf cloth...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    Meguiar's DA Power System
    Does anyone have any opinions on this as a polishing tool? Details from halfords here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Interesting, seems like a good idea. Id reserve judgement until using it, but in reality Im not sure how effective it would be. It looks like its a bit awkward to use, your hand holding the trigger on the drill is quite high making it an awkward posture...not ideal doing a whole car, though, it probably wouldn't be an issue on vertical panels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭quadrifoglio verde


    Gordy6040 wrote: »
    Meguiar's DA Power System
    Does anyone have any opinions on this as a polishing tool? Details from halfords here

    For correction, I'd say it isn't worth while, as the rpm isn't high enough.
    And you're better of waxing your car by hand, if you've ever waxed a car with a da, you'll know why


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    For another 50 quid or so you'd have a das6 polisher, and I know that's quite a bit more but it would be worth it in my opinion.

    I haven't used the above of course but it looks awkward and the fact it's around a while and not that popular speaks volumes in my opinion.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    bbari wrote: »
    After washing and drying the car, i applied the Autoglym Rapid Detailer. when i was wiping it off it was leaving black spots which look like kind of tar. They disappeared when i wiped it off with the wet towel which i had used to dry the car. Any idea why that happens? I didn't leave the detailer long or anything. These marks only appeared after i wiped off detailer with a dry mf cloth...

    That is very strange bbari - only for you said it was like tar, thats what I would have said!

    What have you got on the paintwork, not that it should make any difference really.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    Curran wrote: »
    That is very strange bbari - only for you said it was like tar, thats what I would have said!

    What have you got on the paintwork, not that it should make any difference really.

    Sorry, I should have taken better pics!

    A couple of week after buying the car (Sep) I put a coat of 845, a month later, a coat of Fusso, then a few later a coat of Softt99 King of Gloss. . As I said above, these marks appeared when I was wiping off the AG quick detailer,

    The madness crazy towel cloth i was wiping with was used for buffing wax before - could it be due to that as I never washed the towel after using 3/4 times ? or the only other thing i could thinks of is .. could it be due to a cold morning ?

    I'm not an expert but i think the surface is pretty smooth and it beads well-ish :), not sure if this means that surface is clean. This is the pic this morning..

    2w59jk5.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Looks good to me! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 468 ✭✭Gordy6040


    Mr Detail wrote: »
    For another 50 quid or so you'd have a das6 polisher, and I know that's quite a bit more but it would be worth it in my opinion.

    I haven't used the above of course but it looks awkward and the fact it's around a while and not that popular speaks volumes in my opinion.

    I always figured that they were more expensive .

    Ah, so the Das 6 a standard rather then a brand or model.
    I see this one here which looks like a standard enough piece of kit. Anywhere in Ireland these things are available from? just wondering if i can save on the postage.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    For correction, I'd say it isn't worth while, as the rpm isn't high enough.
    And you're better of waxing your car by hand, if you've ever waxed a car with a da, you'll know why

    So is there any need to have a DA polishing machine at all if your car is fairly swirl free and you really take care washing, claying and waxing it? I spotted one for not bad money and was thinking of getting it, but how much would i use it in reality?


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    Gordy6040 wrote: »
    I always figured that they were more expensive .

    Ah, so the Das 6 a standard rather then a brand or model.
    I see this one here which looks like a standard enough piece of kit. Anywhere in Ireland these things are available from? just wondering if i can save on the postage.

    Cheers

    The das6 is kind of recognised as the best beginner friendly da. A good few companies rebrand them but they are essentially the exact same piece of kit. I have one left in Stock as it happens. Ha ha.

    Kol in fairness if your happy with your paint and the finish there is no need for a da. Some people quite like using them for applying all in one polishes and glazes as well but it's mainly down to the individual I guess.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Mr Detail wrote: »
    The das6 is kind of recognised as the best beginner friendly da. A good few companies rebrand them but they are essentially the exact same piece of kit. I have one left in Stock as it happens. Ha ha.

    Kol in fairness if your happy with your paint and the finish there is no need for a da. Some people quite like using them for applying all in one polishes and glazes as well but it's mainly down to the individual I guess.

    Thanks for the reply. I might use it on the camper to bring up the finish as its badly in need. Would save a lot of elbow grease over an area that big. What's your opinion about waffle pads vs flat pads for the DA?


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭Mr Detail


    Its just a personal preference but I am not a fan of the waffle pads, not that they don't work or anything. I prefer "flat" foam pads, although I use lake country and cg hexlogic pads and they are not completely flat either.

    Certainly make doing the camper a bit easier on the arm anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Just after sitting into the car and have made a scratch with a rivet on my jeans. Black Audi leather. Is there something I can get to touch it up or colour where I have scratched?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭Heathen


    Lads,

    for small scratch to clear coat i want to rub approx 2000 grit wet... and then hit it with polishing compound to bring the shine back..... would a DA polisher do the trick here or would it be a job for a rotary?

    I have read somewhere that a DA is only good for swirl removal and not good for paint correction type stuff?

    H


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