the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Type 17 · 24-04-2021 12:55pm

Post a pic of the teeth without the chain on them, and take a pic of the teeth where most wear occurs, which 90 degrees from the crank arm, ie: place the cranks horizontally, and take a pic of the teeth at the top of ring.

Even if a new chain doesn't skip on a worn ring (or sprocket), the new/old mesh means that fewer links of the chain are taking the full load, so the new chain will wear down to the rest of the drivetrain's level that bit quicker, so sometimes starting again with a new ring may help your chains last longer.

CramCycle · 24-04-2021 1:24pm

Rua_ri wrote: »

Has anybody fitted gp5000 tubeless tyres to mavic kysrium wheels?

I can't even get one side of the tyre over the rim.

Only advice I can give is to make sure that when you get the first part of the tyre on, make sure the bead is resting in the valley of the rim as you roll it on the rest of the way, it's a mistake I have seen a lot, some tyres can take it but a lot can't. Into the valley the whole way round is the only way you get enough lee way to pop it over the rim.

Type 17 · 24-04-2021 1:27pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Only advice I can give is to make sure that when you get the first part of the tyre on, make sure the bead is resting in the valley of the rim as you roll it on the rest of the way, it's a mistake I have seen a lot, some tyres can take it but a lot can't. Into the valley the whole way round is the only way you get enough lee way to pop it over the rim.

And note that whenever you get a bit more bead over the rim, and things get tight again, keep going back around the part that's mounted and pushing it back into the valley, as things shift about as you work on it.

magicbastarder · 24-04-2021 2:36pm

DaveyDave wrote: »

Bike has about 5,000km on it and the new chain is the third one as I try to change at 2,000-2,500km.

very surprised if it's worn and the chain has been maintained like that. one 'rule' is to replace the cassette every three chains, and replace the chainrings every third cassette.

Mundo7976 · 24-04-2021 6:34pm

Broke my first spoke today and managed to limp home.
Has anyone got a recommendation for a wheel mechanic who can replace and true the wheel in the Ashbourne /Ratoath /Swords general area?
Thanks folks

Weepsie · 25-04-2021 1:02am

Mundo7976 wrote: »

Broke my first spoke today and managed to limp home.
Has anyone got a recommendation for a wheel mechanic who can replace and true the wheel in the Ashbourne /Ratoath /Swords general area?
Thanks folks

Any half decent shop should be able to do that. Humphreys In finglas is a straight run in the old n2, probably richie's in swords

Mundo7976 · 25-04-2021 10:38am

Weepsie wrote: »

Any half decent shop should be able to do that. Humphreys In finglas is a straight run in the old n2, probably richie's in swords

Sound. Thanks 👍🏻

wheelo01 · 25-04-2021 4:08pm

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

Paul Kiernan · 25-04-2021 5:47pm

wheelo01 wrote: »

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

Type 17 · 25-04-2021 5:51pm

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

cletus · 25-04-2021 6:03pm

As a general rule, when seating or unseating bearings, you want to push on the outer race, rather than the inner

Paul Kiernan · 25-04-2021 6:04pm

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

cletus · 25-04-2021 6:28pm

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

Any long, solid round or square bar stock should do it. At a pinch you could use an extension bar in the socket itself, but I'd prefer something a bit wider to spread the impact over a greater surface area.

WOT · 25-04-2021 8:47pm

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

cletus · 25-04-2021 8:51pm

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

I presume they stripped because the crank is stuck on the bottom bracket. Heat and a bearing puller would be my next option.

A screw driver and hammer should remove that retaining ring

CramCycle · 25-04-2021 10:04pm

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

WOT · 25-04-2021 10:08pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

The bolt was removed, it’s back there for safe keeping while I figure out the next step. The photo is misleading in that regard.

Yes I stripped the threads, trying to get the crank removed from the taper. Used correct tool etc.

CramCycle · 25-04-2021 10:47pm

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Possibly, other options involve a rubber hammer and a support for the frame, so you can try and hammer it off from the other side.

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

Hard to tell with just that photo but it looks like a lockring tool for that side (Park Tool HCW17, or there are loads of cheaper options, many chain whips have them built in), there is a specific tool for KSS but I think a lockring tool will do it and have a use in the future . If you can put up a pic of the otherside so I can be sure but they are not like Shimano and have the same on both sides.

26-04-2021 3:38pm

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

magicbastarder · 26-04-2021 4:10pm

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

26-04-2021 5:33pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

thanks managed to get it sorted found the allen key that came with the bike and sprayed of the vaults with some WD40 which managed to do the job. The bike feels easier to ride now that the saddle is level.

CramCycle · 26-04-2021 5:40pm

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

I would assume it is, but you should be able to see the threads there, just in case. Leave the bike on its side, leave a drop of penetrant oil on it over night on the bolt. If it was me I would turn the bike upside down and extend the allen key a bit (looks like a carbon frame, if it as steel I wouldn't bother turning it around), make sure the allen key is seated properly and lean into it, that is all a bike shop will do. Just put some welly in, therefore you are driving the force into the seat post and saddle rather than the frame. Others may disagree.

cletus · 26-04-2021 7:15pm

What can help, instead of just increasing the pressure on the Allen key, is to seat it correctly, take up any slack, and give it a swift tap (in the proper direction) with a hammer. I have a number of plastic and brass faced hammers for just this job.

Sudden impact, in general, is better for releasing seized bolts etc. Than steady increased pressure, which is likely to round the head

wheelo01 · 26-04-2021 8:52pm

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

I had a 19mm slide on through, but a 21mm wouldn't fit at all, guess what? I didn't have a 20.

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

That's an interesting one, the problem yesterday was A. I had no 2 euro coins, and that is what might have done it. There was barely one mm excess all round.

Luckily I was able to bring it to work and one of the mechanics was able to remove it for me.
I dont know if he had a bearing removal tool, or just brute force, I will see him tomorrow to find out.

magicbastarder · 26-04-2021 9:10pm

cletus wrote: »

Sudden impact, in general, is better

dirty harry fan, yeah?

Dexif · 26-04-2021 9:22pm

Just wondering are the Shimano 11-speed chains not designed to be broken open? I've opened, fixed, closed many chains over the years but all my other bikes are of an older vintage to 11-speed.

I opened the chain to clean it by steeping in diesel and afterwards put it back together. When I was breaking the chain it made a loud snap. Also, on the chain breaking tool pin, a tiny round bit of metal is left on the circumference.

I put it back on and all seemed fine until it splayed open at the weekend on a spin and tore my front derailleur in half. Was not a happy camper.
I had thought just to buy a quicklink when was planning on taking off the chain originally but didn't bother as thought would just use the chain remover instead. Obviously with hindsight was a bad decision. Anyway, are they just not meant to be opened anymore? Thanks!

P.s. I've now ordered a KMC re-usable quick link along with new chain and derailleur!

CramCycle · 28-04-2021 7:57am

Did you reuse the pin? The chains are fine for reuse although a quicklink is far more convenient. It should make a loud snap as the pin pops out, so that is fine. I have never been a fan of shimano pins though since they have failed on me in the past, but so long as you used a new one it should have been fine. You'll be happy you got the quicklink though, much better job, and when you get a new chain Shimano ship with them now as well.

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 8:50am

Chains for single-speed and 5/6/7/8 speed setups can be opened and pressed back in.
Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

Because these chains are narrower, the pins don’t protrude as much as traditional designs, and so they are peened (stamped to spread the ends) to prevent the plates popping off the end of the pin under load. When the peened part is torn off during pressing out (as Dexif describes above), the pin is rendered unsafe and must not be re-used - either use a new (specially-designed) closing pin or press out the pin at the other side of the outer link and replace the whole outer-plate link with a speed-link.

CramCycle · 28-04-2021 9:43am

Type 17 wrote: »

Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

And after I said it, it was only a 9 and 10 speed pin that has failed on me in the past, they were new for me, presuming not for dexif. I really hate those pins

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 10:02am

For clarity, the regular 9/10/11 speed pins (all ~115 of them) cannot be re-used, but neither can the special (re)closing pins.

If your chain has a re-closing pin in it already, and you want to open the chain again, don't choose the the re-closing pin to press out unless you are discarding that link and using a speed-link, as the larger end on the re-closing links is so big that it deforms (enlarges) the hole in the link plate, destroying it.

TBH, I never liked those Shimano re-closing pins, and always use a speed-link instead.

Dexif · 28-04-2021 12:25pm

Yep, I had re-used the old pin and same links as I always would have before. Expensive lesson learned! Thanks for the advice. Quick links for me in future (including in the back pocket for road side repairs!).

DaveyDave · 28-04-2021 1:43pm

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

magicbastarder · 28-04-2021 2:11pm

photo?

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 4:58pm

DaveyDave wrote: »

...the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

Is it a threaded M5 or M6 hole, or just a big (~20mm) void up into the steerer tube?

gaffmaster · 28-04-2021 5:01pm

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

What type of bike is it? Sounds like it should have come with fixing hardware for mudguards. Lots of brands now supplying bridges etc with latest models.

DaveyDave · 28-04-2021 5:24pm

It's a Canyon Endurace ON. Looking at their website they seem to sell their own mudguards for some bikes and it looks like a bolt going up into the fork so might require some modification for normal mudguards as it doesn't seem common. Took the car to work today so won't have a picture until I'm home unfortunately. Got my girlfriend to send me a picture but it's not clear.

Upper fork mount aside I wonder if the placement of the eyelets is unsuitable for regular guards as they have their own brand of overpriced mudguards...

Sorry when I say hole I meant it's similar to the other ones on the frame, not an empty void similar to an MTB fork.

Mundo7976 · 28-04-2021 9:49pm

Something like these maybe?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/sks-bluemels-road-mudguard-set/rp-prod84326

magicbastarder · 28-04-2021 10:12pm

on that pic of the fork, is that just threaded carbon?

Wishbone Ash · 28-04-2021 11:02pm

Headset Question:

Does anyone know if there is a recommended torque limit for the expanding bung (or whatever it's called) which goes into the steerer? When I tighten the top cap bolt, the bung is sliding up a couple of mm. I feel it is already fairly tight and I'm afraid of overdoing it. There is no torque limit stamped on or around it.

29-04-2021 1:04am

Any good videos or how to guides on how to maintain a bike properly especially after riding in the rain?

tomasrojo · 29-04-2021 10:42am

tomasrojo wrote: »

I ordered that Shimano dynamo hub tool, by the way. I got paid for some teaching on Sunday, and I thought I might as well make things really straightforward, and I'd thought I might have a stronger chance of having the current internal assembly as a slightly wonky but otherwise undamaged back-up in the event that it's screwed in insanely tight, for while I'm so dependent on the cargo bike.

Thanks for all the advice and Cram's offer of dremel and socket help.

Don't judge me harshly!

It probably was a good idea to order the dynamo hub tool. The dynamo hub internal assembly was screwed in tight. I had to use a 40cm-long ring spanner around the nut-like projection on the tool and a hammer.

All done now anyway, and weird loud rubbing sound when the bike is in motion has gone.

magicbastarder · 29-04-2021 11:06am

Deleted User wrote: »

Any good videos or how to guides on how to maintain a bike properly especially after riding in the rain?

GCN have a few on bike cleaning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvzVRxlIUL0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ak4AzlUz5Q

DaveyDave · 29-04-2021 3:08pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

on that pic of the fork, is that just threaded carbon?

Seems like it's a normal eyelet but flush and painted.

I might just go with the SKS Speedrocker. The weird height of the mounts on my bike means I'd have to bend whatever I got to fit or find an adjustable set. I don't mind clip ons, the Raceblades I have are solid they're just too short. The Speedrocker seems to be a good alternative.

Type 17 · 29-04-2021 4:21pm

DaveyDave wrote: »

Seems like it's a normal eyelet but flush and painted.

I might just go with the SKS Speedrocker. The weird height of the mounts on my bike means I'd have to bend whatever I got to fit or find an adjustable set. I don't mind clip ons, the Raceblades I have are solid they're just too short. The Speedrocker seems to be a good alternative.

Have a look at these - Bontrager NCS mudguards - probably more expensive than some, but the stays are fully adjustable in any direction, including to eyelets which are halfway up the fork-blades - my wife's e-bike has a Suntour suspension fork like that, and they are perfect. You can also remove the tongue from the top of the front mudguard, to suit the eyelet at the bottom of the steerer.

Here they are on a road bike (the rear is fitted high at the back / low at the front to provide rear clearance for storage):

Shoco83 · 29-04-2021 9:11pm

Should the lower tension jockey wheel spin freely? I was replacing a chain the other night and I noticed it was rather stiff, I took it off, cleaned it, I removed the seal but the bearings were fine. It spins freely in my hand, so put it back in the rear mech and it was stiff again, the guide wheel spins freely. I checked another bike and also noticed that the lower wheel was stiff.

magicbastarder · 29-04-2021 10:32pm

in my experience, they should spin freely. if they're stiff, it would suggest they're wearing excessively.

what derailleur is it? most use bushings rather than bearings.

dinneenp · 30-04-2021 2:34pm

Hi,
I've noticed for about the past month my rear wheel isn't smooth, an extremely slight 'bump' every revolution. I got a puncture and presume it's from the impact in a micro pothole in the road (that I didn't even notice) when I got my puncture.

Obviously I'll bring it to a bike shop to get it checked but is it something they'd be able to fix?

cletus · 30-04-2021 2:37pm

dinneenp wrote: »

Hi,
I've noticed for about the past month my rear wheel isn't smooth, an extremely slight 'bump' every revolution. I got a puncture and presume it's from the impact in a micro pothole in the road (that I didn't even notice) when I got my puncture.

Obviously I'll bring it to a bike shop to get it checked but is it something they'd be able to fix?

It depends on the issue, when you spin the wheel with the bike in a stand, can you see where the 'bump' is?

magicbastarder · 30-04-2021 2:44pm

It could be that after repairing the puncture, the tyre bead didn't sit back into the rim properly. Can you tell if both the wheel and the tyre are out of round, or just the tyre?

Shoco83 · 30-04-2021 10:06pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

in my experience, they should spin freely. if they're stiff, it would suggest they're wearing excessively.

what derailleur is it? most use bushings rather than bearings.

It’s a dura ace 9100, less than year old, first time changing the chain so that’s how I noticed it. It spins freely when I take it out, it’s almost as if when you tighten the bolt, the cage seems to be clamping it, but this is the first time I’ve opened the cage so it came from the factory like that.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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