the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

wheelo01 · 25-04-2021 04:08PM

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

Paul Kiernan · 25-04-2021 05:47PM

wheelo01 wrote: »

While out today, chain kept whipping around while freewheeling because cassette was doing something weird - long story short, the sealed bearing is shot.
I have a spare here, so decided to knock the bearing out, but the bearing disintegrated and the outer section is left stuck in the wheel.
There is no great purchase to get a good whack at it to free it.
Any suggestions?

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

Type 17 · 25-04-2021 05:51PM

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

cletus · 25-04-2021 06:03PM

As a general rule, when seating or unseating bearings, you want to push on the outer race, rather than the inner

Paul Kiernan · 25-04-2021 06:04PM

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

cletus · 25-04-2021 06:28PM

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

Sockets! Now why didn't I think of that. Much easier to find the right size! How do you protect the outside of the hub as you're hitting the bearing? I use wooden blocks but it can be a bit iffy.

Any long, solid round or square bar stock should do it. At a pinch you could use an extension bar in the socket itself, but I'd prefer something a bit wider to spread the impact over a greater surface area.

WOT · 25-04-2021 08:47PM

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

cletus · 25-04-2021 08:51PM

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

I presume they stripped because the crank is stuck on the bottom bracket. Heat and a bearing puller would be my next option.

A screw driver and hammer should remove that retaining ring

CramCycle · 25-04-2021 10:04PM

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

WOT · 25-04-2021 10:08PM

CramCycle wrote: »

Do you not need to take off the crank bolt first before you try and remove the crank?

The bolt was removed, it’s back there for safe keeping while I figure out the next step. The photo is misleading in that regard.

Yes I stripped the threads, trying to get the crank removed from the taper. Used correct tool etc.

CramCycle · 25-04-2021 10:47PM

WOT wrote: »

Stripped threads in my non drive side crank. I know they are stripped because I did it myself.

What’s my next step? Hacksaw?

Possibly, other options involve a rubber hammer and a support for the frame, so you can try and hammer it off from the other side.

Also what tool do I need to get that bottom bracket off?

Hard to tell with just that photo but it looks like a lockring tool for that side (Park Tool HCW17, or there are loads of cheaper options, many chain whips have them built in), there is a specific tool for KSS but I think a lockring tool will do it and have a use in the future . If you can put up a pic of the otherside so I can be sure but they are not like Shimano and have the same on both sides.

26-04-2021 03:38PM

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

magicbastarder · 26-04-2021 04:10PM

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

26-04-2021 05:33PM

magicbastarder wrote: »

kinda hard to see for certain there, but it might be that the bolt might have started to round out. what size allen key are you using?

thanks managed to get it sorted found the allen key that came with the bike and sprayed of the vaults with some WD40 which managed to do the job. The bike feels easier to ride now that the saddle is level.

CramCycle · 26-04-2021 05:40PM

Deleted User wrote: »

I'm having a hard time unscrewing the bolts on my seat post, the instructions say to unscrew them in anticlockwise direction but they appear stuck, do you think a bike shop would be my best bet?

I would assume it is, but you should be able to see the threads there, just in case. Leave the bike on its side, leave a drop of penetrant oil on it over night on the bolt. If it was me I would turn the bike upside down and extend the allen key a bit (looks like a carbon frame, if it as steel I wouldn't bother turning it around), make sure the allen key is seated properly and lean into it, that is all a bike shop will do. Just put some welly in, therefore you are driving the force into the seat post and saddle rather than the frame. Others may disagree.

cletus · 26-04-2021 07:15PM

What can help, instead of just increasing the pressure on the Allen key, is to seat it correctly, take up any slack, and give it a swift tap (in the proper direction) with a hammer. I have a number of plastic and brass faced hammers for just this job.

Sudden impact, in general, is better for releasing seized bolts etc. Than steady increased pressure, which is likely to round the head

wheelo01 · 26-04-2021 08:52PM

Type 17 wrote: »

You might also try different sized sockets if no coins are suitable.

I had a 19mm slide on through, but a 21mm wouldn't fit at all, guess what? I didn't have a 20.

Paul Kiernan wrote: »

I usually try and find a coin which is just a bit smaller than the bearing, drop it in on top of the bearing and then use a long bar and a heavy hammer to whack it!

That's an interesting one, the problem yesterday was A. I had no 2 euro coins, and that is what might have done it. There was barely one mm excess all round.

Luckily I was able to bring it to work and one of the mechanics was able to remove it for me.
I dont know if he had a bearing removal tool, or just brute force, I will see him tomorrow to find out.

magicbastarder · 26-04-2021 09:10PM

cletus wrote: »

Sudden impact, in general, is better

dirty harry fan, yeah?

Dexif · 26-04-2021 09:22PM

Just wondering are the Shimano 11-speed chains not designed to be broken open? I've opened, fixed, closed many chains over the years but all my other bikes are of an older vintage to 11-speed.

I opened the chain to clean it by steeping in diesel and afterwards put it back together. When I was breaking the chain it made a loud snap. Also, on the chain breaking tool pin, a tiny round bit of metal is left on the circumference.

I put it back on and all seemed fine until it splayed open at the weekend on a spin and tore my front derailleur in half. Was not a happy camper.
I had thought just to buy a quicklink when was planning on taking off the chain originally but didn't bother as thought would just use the chain remover instead. Obviously with hindsight was a bad decision. Anyway, are they just not meant to be opened anymore? Thanks!

P.s. I've now ordered a KMC re-usable quick link along with new chain and derailleur!

CramCycle · 28-04-2021 07:57AM

Did you reuse the pin? The chains are fine for reuse although a quicklink is far more convenient. It should make a loud snap as the pin pops out, so that is fine. I have never been a fan of shimano pins though since they have failed on me in the past, but so long as you used a new one it should have been fine. You'll be happy you got the quicklink though, much better job, and when you get a new chain Shimano ship with them now as well.

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 08:50AM

Chains for single-speed and 5/6/7/8 speed setups can be opened and pressed back in.
Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

Because these chains are narrower, the pins don’t protrude as much as traditional designs, and so they are peened (stamped to spread the ends) to prevent the plates popping off the end of the pin under load. When the peened part is torn off during pressing out (as Dexif describes above), the pin is rendered unsafe and must not be re-used - either use a new (specially-designed) closing pin or press out the pin at the other side of the outer link and replace the whole outer-plate link with a speed-link.

CramCycle · 28-04-2021 09:43AM

Type 17 wrote: »

Some (mostly early) 9-speed chains can also be closed using the original pin, but most of them, and all 10 & 11-speed pins cannot be pressed back in safely.

And after I said it, it was only a 9 and 10 speed pin that has failed on me in the past, they were new for me, presuming not for dexif. I really hate those pins

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 10:02AM

For clarity, the regular 9/10/11 speed pins (all ~115 of them) cannot be re-used, but neither can the special (re)closing pins.

If your chain has a re-closing pin in it already, and you want to open the chain again, don't choose the the re-closing pin to press out unless you are discarding that link and using a speed-link, as the larger end on the re-closing links is so big that it deforms (enlarges) the hole in the link plate, destroying it.

TBH, I never liked those Shimano re-closing pins, and always use a speed-link instead.

Dexif · 28-04-2021 12:25PM

Yep, I had re-used the old pin and same links as I always would have before. Expensive lesson learned! Thanks for the advice. Quick links for me in future (including in the back pocket for road side repairs!).

DaveyDave · 28-04-2021 01:43PM

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

magicbastarder · 28-04-2021 02:11PM

photo?

Type 17 · 28-04-2021 04:58PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

...the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

Is it a threaded M5 or M6 hole, or just a big (~20mm) void up into the steerer tube?

gaffmaster · 28-04-2021 05:01PM

DaveyDave wrote: »

Not technically maintenance but didn't want to start a new thread. New bike has mudguard mounts, the rear looks normal the the fork has two mounts on the inside of the fork but the top mount is under the steerer tube section as opposed to a hole where a rim brake mount would be. Can a front mudguard be mounted with the screw going up through the guard into the fork as opposed to a metal tab going up to a brake mount area? It's a disc fork so the only hole is going up into the fork.

What type of bike is it? Sounds like it should have come with fixing hardware for mudguards. Lots of brands now supplying bridges etc with latest models.

DaveyDave · 28-04-2021 05:24PM

It's a Canyon Endurace ON. Looking at their website they seem to sell their own mudguards for some bikes and it looks like a bolt going up into the fork so might require some modification for normal mudguards as it doesn't seem common. Took the car to work today so won't have a picture until I'm home unfortunately. Got my girlfriend to send me a picture but it's not clear.

Upper fork mount aside I wonder if the placement of the eyelets is unsuitable for regular guards as they have their own brand of overpriced mudguards...

Sorry when I say hole I meant it's similar to the other ones on the frame, not an empty void similar to an MTB fork.

Mundo7976 · 28-04-2021 09:49PM

Something like these maybe?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/gr/en/sks-bluemels-road-mudguard-set/rp-prod84326

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Comments