the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 03-06-2020 10:36pm

to be fair though, you may have just hit on a new diagnostic method for bike issues.

'my cassette is making a strange noise when freewheeling'
'well if it sounds like squarepusher it's the pawls, but if it sounds more like aphex twin, it's the bearings' etc.

03-06-2020 11:32pm

Wow a squarepusher mention in the cycling forum , love this guy. Known for his electronic music but is one of the most under radar bass players of all time. He's done full shows just him on bass.

'Detroit People Mover' video is great if you haven't seen it yet.

Type 17 · 04-06-2020 5:14pm

ofthelord wrote: »

Hi All,
A 2nd question that someone may also be able to help me with...
I've identified the cause of an annoying clicking sound on my bike, it is one of the plastic entry points where the cabling going into the frame(it is the top one shown on image). Going over bumps this plastic part clicks(and there are a lot of bumps on the roads near me!).
I'm not sure how to approach this, and I'm hopeful that someone here can point me to a simple fix for this?

Thanks.

Could be grit between the cable-housing and its ferrule (cap), or between the ferrule and the frame-guide - drop some oil into the joins to see if it helps.

If not, it's the wires that make up the housing moving around in the inside of the ferrule - only guaranteed solution is to disassemble and trim a few mm off the housing and replace the ferrule with a new one.

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 8:38pm

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

cletus · 04-06-2020 8:41pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html

Essentially, the recommendation seems to be swap front to back, and put a new one on the front

07Lapierre · 04-06-2020 8:44pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

Always better to have a good tyre on the front. Just buy a new tyre to replace the rear. Leave the existing front tyre where it is.

crosstownk · 04-06-2020 8:56pm

07Lapierre wrote: »

Always better to have a good tyre on the front. Just buy a new tyre to replace the rear. Leave the existing front tyre where it is.

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

That said, I usually replace tyres in pairs and keep the used front as an 'emergency' back up. I've loads of ex-front tyres in the shed.

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 9:01pm

crosstownk wrote: »

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

07Lapierre · 04-06-2020 9:03pm

crosstownk wrote: »

I'd be of this opinion also. Keep the best grip up front.

That said, I usually replace tyres in pairs and keep the used front as an 'emergency' back up. I've loads of ex-front tyres in the shed.

I do the same..that's why I have a garage full of half worn tyres!

crosstownk · 04-06-2020 9:14pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

Yeah - I'd say you could be right but usually a reasonably used rear tyre will be a bit 'flatter' which may have some effect on grip at the front. I'm not sure if there's science behind it but I just feel more comfortable with a fresher tyre at the front.

Type 17 · 04-06-2020 9:21pm

Tread/thickness doesn't equal grip, so a worn road bike tyre has the same grip (unless it's got a severe flat zone worn into the centre and is pumped to the max - then, during cornering, it might have a smaller contact area).

Car tyres do need tread to allow water to pass from in front of the contact area to behind it (bald tyres allow water to build up in front, the tyre rises up onto it, and you go aquaplaning). Apparently, for a bike tyre to need tread to avoid aquaplaning, you'd need to be doing 300km/h.

Thinner tyres do have less puncture protection, though.

07Lapierre · 04-06-2020 9:22pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

i would assume that a reasonably worn tyre would have the same grip levels as a new one, the issue i thought would be more to do with puncture protection/prevention.

In my experience, I get more punctures in the rear tyre, than the front. This is because there is more weight on the rear wheel. Even a part worn tyre on the front, will get less punctures than the rear tyre.

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 9:24pm

fingers crossed, i've never punctured on that bike anyway - not a particular surprise, it's my dry weather bike,

salmocab · 04-06-2020 9:34pm

Hey folks, was given two kids MBs for my two kids, they wont be needed for a while as they aren't at that stage yet. They are in good condition and I gave them an oiling as they will be in the shed for a while. They have 7 gears so only a rear derailleur operated by a twist on the right side grip, I notice though that as I twisted it through the gears the derailleur didn't seem to shift each time so only seemed like maybe 4 worked if that makes sense. Question is does this sound like an easy fix or even a problem at all and would I be best getting it sorted in a service? Dont mind spending a few quid as they were free. Any answers will need to be exceptionally spelt out as I'm clueless about bikes although I'm a tradesman so handy with things and have access to tools if its something that is straight forward enough. Cheers

Type 17 · 04-06-2020 9:37pm

Sounds like the cable might be too slack - if you're handy, you'll definitely be able to follow this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 9:39pm

the simplest explanation would be that the rear derailleur is simply out of alignment. it's the easiest to deal with too, it can lead to inconsistent shifting.
if you flip the bike upside down, can you see if the jockey wheel (the small cog on the rear derailleur) is lining up correctly with the cogs on the cassette as you shift gears? or is it sitting halfway between them?

cletus · 04-06-2020 9:39pm

salmocab wrote: »

Hey folks, was given two kids MBs for my two kids, they wont be needed for a while as they aren't at that stage yet. They are in good condition and I gave them an oiling as they will be in the shed for a while. They have 7 gears so only a rear derailleur operated by a twist on the right side grip, I notice though that as I twisted it through the gears the derailleur didn't seem to shift each time so only seemed like maybe 4 worked if that makes sense. Question is does this sound like an easy fix or even a problem at all and would I be best getting it sorted in a service? Dont mind spending a few quid as they were free. Any answers will need to be exceptionally spelt out as I'm clueless about bikes although I'm a tradesman so handy with things and have access to tools if its something that is straight forward enough. Cheers

Sounds like the derailleur needs to be adjusted. Relatively easy to do, plenty of videos online showing how (Park Tools video is probably the best)

As an aside, those grip shifters are pants

07Lapierre · 04-06-2020 9:48pm

salmocab wrote: »

Hey folks, was given two kids MBs for my two kids, they wont be needed for a while as they aren't at that stage yet. They are in good condition and I gave them an oiling as they will be in the shed for a while. They have 7 gears so only a rear derailleur operated by a twist on the right side grip, I notice though that as I twisted it through the gears the derailleur didn't seem to shift each time so only seemed like maybe 4 worked if that makes sense. Question is does this sound like an easy fix or even a problem at all and would I be best getting it sorted in a service? Dont mind spending a few quid as they were free. Any answers will need to be exceptionally spelt out as I'm clueless about bikes although I'm a tradesman so handy with things and have access to tools if its something that is straight forward enough. Cheers

First thing to do is disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur. Then, while turning the pedals with one hand, move the rear derailleur with your other hand and see if if moves the chain onto each of the 7 sprockets (My guess is it will). If it does, because the cable is disconnected, the chain will stay on the smallest sprocket. Now hold the end of the cable and while pulling it, twist the shifter so it's in the 7th sprocket position (this usually means twisting it clockwise). Then reconnect the cable (keep as much tension on the cable as you can, while tightening it) and try again.

salmocab · 04-06-2020 9:53pm

Cheers folks I’ll take it out over the weekend and have a go.

Thargor · 04-06-2020 10:37pm

The rear wheel on my junk MTB has a definite wobble to it, not really visible when you pick it up and spin it but when you ride and look down you can see it. Its very slight, is there any action I can take myself or should I just order a new wheel?

Do you just order any 26" wheel and swap the sprocket over or what?

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 10:42pm

just a slight buckle? no reason to replace, no harm to ride, might cost you 15 or 20 quid to have trued.

07Lapierre · 04-06-2020 11:14pm

Thargor wrote: »

The rear wheel on my junk MTB has a definite wobble to it, not really visible when you pick it up and spin it but when you ride and look down you can see it. Its very slight, is there any action I can take myself or should I just order a new wheel?

Do you just order any 26" wheel and swap the sprocket over or what?

Does the wheel lock up when you apply the Brake? If not, no action required. Just don't look at it.

magicbastarder · 04-06-2020 11:17pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Apparently, for a bike tyre to need tread to avoid aquaplaning, you'd need to be doing 300km/h.

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

CramCycle · 05-06-2020 12:14am

magicbastarder wrote: »

what are people's thoughts on swapping front and back tyres around to maintain equal wear?
note: neither tyre is heavily worn at all. front still has the mould line visible down the centre.

I think its a silly idea, replace each tyre as it needs to be replaced. The effort of switching tyres around to gain something seems ridiculous, they either grip or not . You don't save money, or get any extra value and the claims of increased grip etc seem negligible unless you had really sh1t tyres.

Roger the cabin boy · 05-06-2020 10:11am

salmocab wrote: »

Hey folks, was given two kids MBs for my two kids, they wont be needed for a while as they aren't at that stage yet. They are in good condition and I gave them an oiling as they will be in the shed for a while. They have 7 gears so only a rear derailleur operated by a twist on the right side grip, I notice though that as I twisted it through the gears the derailleur didn't seem to shift each time so only seemed like maybe 4 worked if that makes sense. Question is does this sound like an easy fix or even a problem at all and would I be best getting it sorted in a service? Dont mind spending a few quid as they were free. Any answers will need to be exceptionally spelt out as I'm clueless about bikes although I'm a tradesman so handy with things and have access to tools if its something that is straight forward enough. Cheers

If the cables are ok, then its highly likely they just need adjusting.

Look up on youtube.

Grip shifts, deraileurs on 7speeds are pretty bomb proof.

Roger the cabin boy · 05-06-2020 10:12am

Thargor wrote: »

The rear wheel on my junk MTB has a definite wobble to it, not really visible when you pick it up and spin it but when you ride and look down you can see it. Its very slight, is there any action I can take myself or should I just order a new wheel?

Do you just order any 26" wheel and swap the sprocket over or what?

Buy a spoke key.
Use youtube.
Win.

For minor adjustments, its very easy.

Tony04 · 05-06-2020 10:42am

Thargor wrote: »

The rear wheel on my junk MTB has a definite wobble to it, not really visible when you pick it up and spin it but when you ride and look down you can see it. Its very slight, is there any action I can take myself or should I just order a new wheel?

Do you just order any 26" wheel and swap the sprocket over or what?

There might be play in your hubs?

cletus · 05-06-2020 8:03pm

Is the cable in the picture a specific type, or can I use the end of MTB brake cable

Type 17 · 05-06-2020 8:14pm

You can use standard brake cable with a barrel nipple - you won't have the handy gripper bit on the end, but that's the only difference.

magicbastarder · 05-06-2020 8:26pm

yeah, the flared end of the 'stopper' is provided to make it easier to lift out of the cradle it sits into IIRC, rather than providing any functionality specifically for braking.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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