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Let the games commence

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Back to the Wellcraft! I'm continuing with the interior lining and it's slow going as I'm doing more of the fiddly bits. Measure, cut, offer it up, mark again, trim, offer it up again etc. etc. But getting there.

    Today I concentrated on tidying up the area around the forward hatch, and it needed some serious tidying! It was way too rough and irregular to attempt to cover it, especially as I'm using a vinyl material, with little or no "give" unlike a fabric which has some stretch and is much more forgiving.

    First I had to grind back a number of high, lumpy areas of fibreglass and put some shape on the hatch opening. Then my old friend, pipe insulation, was used to cover the hatch "frame" to give me a cleaner, more consistent area to cover. Then I covered the rather irregular corner, running across the width of the boat, using a camping/yoga mat. This is a nice semi rigid foam, which covers a multitude of sins and gives a nice surface to work on.

    Then I could start covering with vinyl, which worked out pretty well, with just a little bit of tweaking to do. I've also cut a pair of panels, like in the main ceiling area, to cover the areas on either side of the hatch. I'm doing much of this in a patchwork sort of way, as the vinyl I got was a roll end and a little bit shorter than I needed, but it's working out fine.

    No work will be done tomorrow, as the tide is good and the forecast is better, so a little bit of fishing is called for.

    Some pics may help to explain things better.........


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    And a few more pics......


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Well we got our day out fishing, and what a day! Blue skies, no big winds and even some fish. The good woman is "hooked" having caught her first fish ever! We got a few mackerel and then, after stopping off on the way back in at a likely looking spot, we caught another 16. We could have continued, but we had enough. best to leave some for the other fishermen (and women).

    But today it was back to the interior lining, which should be finished off tomorrow.

    I tackled the front vee section, which had a very rough, uneven corner running across the full width. This corner is right in the line of sight as you enter the cabin and was going to be awkward to cover neatly.

    So, I "made" a new corner, by fixing a strip of 1/2" plywood along the rough edge, straightening out the humps and hollows. This allowed me to cover the corner more tidily and gave me something to staple the vinyl onto, as well as using the adhesive.

    My small "ceiling" panels for the corner sections are made up and one is fitted. I just have to cover the opposite "port" side and we're pretty much done. Then a clean up and refit the black trim pieces.

    A little tip of sorts that I devised as I went along, is a way to tidy up the joints/corners etc. As mentioned, being a little bit short of vinyl, I did something of a patchwork, in lots of individual sections. It's easier to work this way, but creates a lot more joins. So, if you can't disguise something, then make a bit of a feature of it! So whenever I had a joint, I just folded the inside edges of the vinyl over on itself and stuck it down. This creates a sort of "roll" and hides the cut edge. When two of these "rolls" meet, the finish isn't half bad. likewise, one section rolled, where it runs into a corner has the same effect.

    Some pics as usual.......


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,324 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Nice, might get you to do mine now :) Always good to have the other half onboard and enjoying it ;)




    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    I'm looking at the possibility of removing the holding tank on my waste disposal system and am looking for thoughts on this. As things stand, I have to replace a few hoses and thought about the modification at the same time.

    I don't ever see me being on the inland waterways and would prefer not to be carrying a septic tank around with me all the time!

    I've enclosed sketches of the current set up and the proposed set up. One of the odd aspects of the current set up, is that the dockside waste extraction, draws the waste from one leg of the "Y" valve and not from the tank itself. I would have thought that straight from the tank would be the simpler, more effective way to go, but I've seen some schematics where this is the case, but most do seem to draw directly from the tank.

    My proposal is to eliminate the holding tank altogether and run the waste from the pan, via the macerator, to the through hull outlet.

    I may have to fit a vented loop to the waste outlet, although none are fitted at present, but this isn't an issue.

    Another consideration is the fact that at present, there are two switches in the loo, one for "flush" and one for "macerator". This allows the flushed waste to go to the holding tank, where it is drawn out and macerated before being flushed out through the seacock. As I wouldn't have a holding tank, my proposal is to operate both "flush" and "macerator" simultaneously, from the same switch, so that waste is flushed, sucked through the macerator and out through the hull, all in one go.

    I'd probably use a delay switch, which, after being pressed, stays on for a determined number of seconds, to give enough time to actually flush and discharge.

    PS. The "current set up" is factory spec. and is how the boat is set up from new.

    Any thoughts or input much appreciated.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Hi all, still looking for any experienced sages regarding my waste question, but in the meantime............

    I got my new (either side of the door) panels cut to size and shape after some fettling and adjusting, re-fettling, re-fitting, you know how it goes. But I did save myself a bit of work by cutting a template from hardboard, using the shape of the first panel. As the boat is the same shape on either side, this gave me a good basis to start from.

    The new panels will be covered on both sides, in a hard wearing "Formica" type material and they will stop short of the deck, to avoid soaking up any water. I'm also incorporating a drip slip, using some of my old friend, left over plastic facia board. This is the same stuff I used to make the oars for my punt.

    The replacement panels were "dry fitted" and the door was hung just to ensure that everything works and fits, so tomorrow I'll start covering them and hopefully get them fitted.

    Some pics to show what I mean, including one that clearly shows the damage that long term water ingress will cause to plywood!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, I got my new panels finished, with just the black trim to fix along the outside to cover the overlap/join between the existing fibreglass and the panels. These strips are rebated so the will sit nice and snug and finish things off nicely.

    I also spent a while with the circuit tester identifying and verifying the wiring at the old fuse board. This was of the old glass fuse variety and was mounted beneath the dash. Exposed to the elements and not very easily accessible!

    So I've fitted a new blade type fuse board on the opposite side of the panel, inside the toilet and will make a small cabinet to cover it up, just for appearances. Now the fuses are clearly identified and much easier to get to.

    The side wall/door panel of the toilet had been removed for removing the old interior lining and renewing same, but I've left it off for the moment as it makes access much easier for working on the pan/plumbing/waste holding tank, which is still a work in progress.

    Now, what's next..........................


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Now that the fuse board is moved and so much more accessible, I'm sorting out the electrics. Despite being 26 years old, the wiring is in pretty good shape with not an awful lot of tampering, but some.

    I'm working through each of the circuits, identifying what does what and marking same, for future reference. I'm also drawing small individual circuit diagrams as I go, so I know how things actually are, as opposed to how they might have been when new and untouched. As well as that, most circuit diagrams are a multiple of circuits, laid on top of each other etc. etc. Individual diagrams are so much easier to follow.

    I'm in the process of upgrading the nav lights, as the factory spec is just a small single lamp on the bow, with a green and red lens. I want to fit individual port and starboard lamps on either side of the top deck.

    Firstly, the existing wiring on the nav light had a short, which blew the fuse. Found that and sorted it. Then I had power going to the light, but no return to ground. Eventually found a broken connection on a big multi pin connector block beneath the dash. Sorted that.

    Then, power going to the light but none at the actual light fitting. Found a break inside the insulation right at the bulb holder. Sorted that.

    Now, thanks to my multi meter, all is good. I have the wiring identified and can now run new,extra tails to my new lights, with the fuse suitably upgraded.

    A small question. The switch for the nav lights is a three position switch. Centre position is "OFF" one side is "NAV" and the other side is "ANCHOR". This anchor light is, I presume, the white light fitted to the upper transom and is used when actually at anchor? I'll be looking into the wiring on that tomorrow.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,324 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Yep the white light is the anchor light and should be visible 360 degrees and about 2 miles from the boat.



    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    The white light on the transom is the stern light - the anchor light is probably on the wheelhouse top.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    The white light on the transom is the stern light - the anchor light is probably on the wheelhouse top.

    Yes, that makes more sense. The light on the transom isn't visible 360 degrees as it sits flat, but there is a white light on top of an aluminium tubular mast, which folds up/down and is mounted on top of the windscreen. This light can be seen 360 degrees.

    So now I know what's what with the wiring! As mentioned the toggle switch has two "on" positions, one for nav and one for anchor, so the tail light should operate on the nav position and the masthead light on the anchor position.

    That will save me a lot of confusion. Thanks for the clarification.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    I should also mention that the mastlight also doubles as a steaming light, and should come on when the Nav lights are lit. (just in case you wonder what that stray wire is for:confused::) ) See Here


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    I should also mention that the mastlight also doubles as a steaming light, and should come on when the Nav lights are lit. (just in case you wonder what that stray wire is for:confused::) ) See Here
    Kind of thought that! No big issue to sort that out. I also got my cabin lights wired up and running. Then work got in the way but I'm happy with how things are going. Thanks for the input.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,324 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Lidl had 12v led light bulbs in today for €3.99 http://www.lidl.ie/en/Offers.htm?action=showDetail&id=44703 just incase your looking, I picked up a few for myself.





    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Work took me away, getting back home just last weekend. Then the car needed some attention, but finally got back to the boat. Most of the electrics are now sorted and I've moved on to the toilet set up. I took the pan etc. from the boat to work on and also removed any surplus hoses, given that I'm doing away with the waste holding tank. This has also been removed and thankfully it contained nothing but fresh water with the blue chemical additive.

    I managed to pump it dry, using my little €9 hand pump and now I have extra storage space on deck, complete with an access flap, so somewhere to store tools etc. To that end, if anyone can make any use of it, the tank is available, free, to a good home. It's in excellent shape, complete with fittings and is made from a heavy duty plastic/resin type material. It measure about 2' long by 1'x1'.

    Both the toilet flush pump and the macerator pump were dead as doornails when I put power directly to them. Investigation revealed that they were seized up, probably from lack of use. So I set about dismantling, cleaning, lubricating etc. and now the macerator pump is running again, needing only a new impellar. The flush pump seems to be a bit worse, but it may be salvageable yet.

    As soon as this is finished, the toilet panel can be replaced and then the interior is almost finished. Just the sink, cooker and new worktop, oh and the new cabinet for the fridge/cooler box and yes, the new storage cabinet and drawer. Where does it end?

    But it's all good. Pics will follow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Talking with some of the experts over on iboats forums, it seems likely that I will reinstate the holding tank and save myself some work and possible grief with the electrics.
    I will however modify the way that the systems works as per factory and simplify things along the way. I will of course post as and when (and how) I get along with this.

    Otherwise I'm being a little bit distracted by a refurb on the kitchen. No harm when the weather isn't so great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, the kitchen is finished and I could finally get back to the boat. While compiling my next shopping list, I set about replacing the panels that sat on either side of the deck. These were 1/2" ply, "protected" with a coat of emulsion paint! Needless to say, they were disintegrating, so............

    I made up new panels, with a storage box fitted in each, as opposed to the open shelf that was on the originals. The panel on the port side incorporates a cabinet for the small gas bottle for the cooker and everything is covered in the same white formica that I used on the panels either side of the cabin door.

    The cabinet sits clear of the deck to avoid any water ingress and the open ends of the plywood were first covered with slips, glued and pinned in place.

    All the interiors and exposed parts will be liberally varnished with several coats.

    Some pics included, showing the original panel and my new set up, temporarily fitted for a look see. I have the replacement panel made up for the opposite side also and they should look fine, especially when the black trim pieces are replaced.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    Very sharp corner.... I have an aversion to them on boats! Could you 'round' it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Very sharp corner.... I have an aversion to them on boats! Could you 'round' it?

    A valid point (no pun intended!) The corner is well out of the way, especially when the seat is replaced. I took it out just to give myself some room to work. The cabinet itself is as shallow as possible, allowing about half the depth of the gas cylinder to sit in under the gunwale overhang.

    Having said that, I do have some light plastic trim, which will bend easily with a little heat, so I may well trim the corner off and cover it like so. I left it square originally, to allow me to fit a wooden slip over the raw edge of the plywood, which in turn has gotten it's first coat of varnish. But you're probably right, watch this space and thanks for the input.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, my latest shopping list is en route as I type, so the waste plumbing and toilet can be reinstated, along with a few other odds and ends, including some tweaking on the engine.
    In the meantime, I finished off my deck panels, including a new one for the stern, covering up the gap through which the engine was exposed. I also made up the cabinet for the 12 volt cool box, which will sit in the space where the original fridge would have been. The cool box slides out on a rolling shelf, giving clear access to the contents, and it sits down in a cutout into the base, so it wont wander about in transit.

    It has gotten a few coats of varnish also, as has all the panels, despite the fact that it will be indoors, in the cabin and inside a unit. Belt and braces!!

    This cabinet has since been fitted with doors, covered in white formica ( I have plenty) and the drawer and daft "press" alongside will be remodelled also.

    So, lots to do still with pics to follow, but included some of the cool box cabinet.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, my latest shopping list arrived today, including my toilet fittings along with some accessories, so lots to be kept busy with.
    In the interim, I've been busy sorting out water in the petrol tank on my car!! Hey ho, such is life. But now it's back to the really important things!!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, nothing terribly fancy to look at, but my new toilet set up is plumbed, wired and working! I even got the side panel on the toilet back in place and it's nice to see things going back together again.

    I had some minor issues with the waste pipe, given that it's 38mm, wire reinforced and wasn't very "giving" in the recent cold weather, but I got there in the end. One thing that bothered me is the fact that the waste out of the pan is 25mm whereas the feed into the holding tank is 38mm, requiring the use of an adaptor and therefore, a joint. The less joints and bends on a waste pipe sits better with me. Why the outlet on the pan isn't 38mm, or even have the option of interchangeable outlet fittings is beyond me. Especially as the pan comes with the required adaptors!
    Anyway, I simplified the waste while I was at it and re-routed it in a more direct way to the tank, as opposed to the left turn it used to take, travelling behind the pan, before turning right, through a panel and right again, back the way it came, before reaching the waste tank. Now I have a run, about 1/4 of what it used to be, straight to the tank. Attached pics show same, with the new (yellow) waste pipe.
    You might notice some cable ties on this pipe and these are fitted just to reinforce the pipe where it's inclined to want to kink, helping to keep its shape.
    Also shown is my new macerator and pipework.
    It doesn't look like a lot has been done, but everything was dismantled, removed, and cleaned thoroughly before re-fitting.
    I tested the system with a rubber hose pushed into the through hull water intake, fed from a bucket of water. I "primed" the toilet by flushing a few bucket of water through it then ran the "flush" and everything works fine, with, importantly, no leaks.
    Just the macerator switch to connect up and we're all complete.
    I also fitted my new twin horns (love the shiny bits). FWIW the marks and lines on the gel coat in this picture is just dirt and cobwebs, as the gel coat is in overall very good shape. I also replaced the fuel/water separator, which amounted to removing the actual bracket/assembly and cleaning up the treads the separator screws onto as well as cleaning up the mating surfaces and blowing air through everything.
    I hope to run the engine again some day next week and have a few separators to hand, just to ensure the system is properly cleaned out.
    Next in line will be a new worktop (with new cutouts) to take my new/secondhand cooker/sink combo as well as remodelling the little drawer and press set up.
    Anyway, that's it for now and some pics of pipework for your perusal.........


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    As mentioned in my previous post, next in line is the "kitchen" or galley as I think the proper nautical term is. I first removed the old drawer and opened up the small storage space beneath it. This storage space is simply an open part of the hull, with a channel running through it, back to the bilge for drainage, so not a lot of use for any actual storage.

    To this end, I want to make up a box, (like the one my cooler sits in), with the drawer on the bottom, being the shallower section and a storage press above, reversing the current set up. I'm also relocating my fresh water pump, as it was housed in this area, but would be quite inaccessible after the remodel. I've found a space right beside the fresh water tank, which allows access to electrical and water connections.

    I also removed the old alcohol cooker and sink, which are being replaced with a more compact combo unit. This will give me a lot more worktop space. A bit of a boo boo I made when getting my new/second hand combo unit, is the fact that the controls for the cooker are on the front, as opposed to being on top, which would have made life much simpler!

    But I overcame this by making some cut outs to the front edge of the current worktop and will fix the unit to the front edge, allowing the controls accessed. There is a chrome trim piece that runs around the worktop, which I will fit to my new worktop, 3/4" ply, covered in formica. This trim will have two holes drilled through it to allow the fitting of the cooker knobs and it will dress everything off nicely. So, disaster averted!

    A couple of pics included to give some idea of what I'm talking about.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Not a lot to report, but things are moving along in the right direction. I got my new worktop cut and dry fitted, with the cutout for the sink combo and finished it in white formica. Lots more workspace now.

    I also got started on the second cabinet/storage area beneath the worktop. As mentioned this was a bit of a "black hole of Calcutta" and needed serious tidying and better use of the space. I took away the old drawer and door and opened up the ope left behind, just to gain a few more inches of usable storage.

    The plan is to make two boxes, the shallower one on the bottom to house a cutlery drawer, with extra storage and the top box section will be deeper, following the shape of the hull, also fitted with a drawer to give good storage for other galley items.

    Like my cool box set up, everything will be liberally varnished and dressed off around the front edges when finished. Waiting on some more plywood, so I will tinker with some other things in the meanwhile.

    One such diversion is my plan to reline the interior. Yes, I hear you, I've already relined the interior, but, for a variety of reasons, I'm not happy with it. Part of the reason is the fact that The material I originally got was the end of a roll, with no more available and this required judicious use and plenty of patching/ joints etc. Some of the finish is bothering me and so, given the fact that I'd be looking at it for an awful long time, I thought I'd prefer to do it right.

    I sourced some nice fabric, with plenty more available if need be and erred on the side of caution anyway, getting more than I'll really need. I thought while I'm at it, I will remove the windows, which makes trimming and fitting easier, and reseal the windows properly, as I've discovered a few small leaks/drips after any rain. If it's worth doing etc.

    Some pics of the galley worktop and cabinets in progress.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Still pottering away and all the drawer units are finished, sitting in the shed for now, getting varnished. Drawer fronts are made up also and laminated like the worktop and cool box cabinet doors.

    I also fitted my new fresh water pump. It's now right beside the tank and importantly, is accessible! I couldn't put it where the old one was, as this would be buried in behind the drawer units. I ran a temporary power supply to it and hooked up a standard tap, and now we have fresh water on board. The tank will be treated and flushed several times before proper use. I'll use lots of sterilising tablets, like you'd use for a babies bottle etc.

    I also made up new seat supports for the seats at the rear, up on deck. The old ones were looking worse for wear, having been exposed to the elements over a long period, with little or no maintenance. Now I have nice new mahogany supports, also liberally varnished. The back rests for these rear seats were also looking a bit sad, so I've removed and dismantled them. The trimcell covers will clean up fine, but I'll replace the foam, as it had soaked up a ton of water etc.

    So, lots happening off site and then it will all come together. Next major job will be the re- relining. But I'm confident that it will work out fine. Just want some dry weather for taking out the windows. gradually ticking the jobs off the list! pics to follow.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,324 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Are you using laminated sheeting and gluing it on if so where are you getting it as I might be looking for some I know the panelling centre do it just looking for other options.



    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Yes, using a formica type material. I got it down here in Kerry. Had to go to Tralee for it. The sheets were 10'x4' and cost about €70.00 each. Plus the adhesive! I can rummage out the receipt if you want the details. The sheets had to be sent down to Kerry from their Dublin store. (Noyeks). In return, you might tell me where you got your tap. I can't find a lot online. Single, without a switch as I'm using a pressure pump.
    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,324 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    sogood wrote: »
    Yes, using a formica type material. I got it down here in Kerry. Had to go to Tralee for it. The sheets were 10'x4' and cost about €70.00 each. Plus the adhesive! I can rummage out the receipt if you want the details. The sheets had to be sent down to Kerry from their Dublin store. (Noyeks). In return, you might tell me where you got your tap. I can't find a lot online. Single, without a switch as I'm using a pressure pump.
    Thanks.

    Tap is from Lidl ;)



    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    I'm busy pottering away on little jobs on the boat and various other "off site" jobs and hope to see a lot of things all coming together in one fell swoop.

    I made up a new panel, laminated and dressed off, to replace the original, which was left filled with holes after removing redundant switchgear etc. The new panel houses a few 12volt sockets and a double USB socket. I also managed to house my radio/stereo in this panel, after some fettling, which involved cutting away some of the interior "plastic" skin on the boat, to allow the radio to sit deeper, as it wouldn't fit otherwise. I got the power supply to my freshwater pump in place and this runs behind the aforementioned panel, via an isolating switch. The same cavity will house the gas supply from the cabinet on deck,to the cooker.

    On the subject of gas, I got the vent fitted as previously mentioned.

    To make the most of available storage, I made up a little box to sit inside another one of those cavities that simply exist in the hull area, full of dirt and home to drainage channels. Not a lot of use for storage as is. The box has been fitted with vents at either end, just to minimise mould etc. and is being varnished at present. The wooden covers for the storage areas are all being varnished also, just for added protection.

    I also started on the "re" re-lining, beginning with the ceiling panels. The original material that I used was a foam backed vinyl and I managed to peel the vinyl away, keeping the foam backing in place, which I then recovered with my new fabric. I don't know yet whether this will be possible on the cabin walls, but we shall see.

    Next major job is the reline the walls, including the removal and re-sealing of the windows, so some dry weather is called for! When sealing anything in place, I tend to dry fit, then draw a pencil line around the fitting/window/vent/ whatever and then lay masking tape down along the outer edge of this line.
    Then I apply my seal just inside the line and fit the item in place. The excess sealant then squeezes out onto the masking tape. After it has dried, I trim the sealant with a sharp blade and peel away the tape, taking the excess sealant with it! No mess, no major cleaning! Pics of my gas cabinet vent will explain.

    On that subject, I intend to close up the cavity between the inner and outer skins, just to prevent any potential gas leak from making its way down into the bilge. Likewise with the radio, but mostly to help protect it from the elements.

    That's about it for now. Pics to peruse and a Happy Christmas and peaceful New Year to all.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Getting there!


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