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Let the games commence

1246

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Hello all and Season's greetings. I've started on the "re" relining of the boat. This time around, I'm removing the windows first and re-sealing them, as I discovered several leaks here and there. The first relining that I did was a vinyl finish and was housing quite an amount of water in the foam backing, which I'm sure didn't help the amount of condensation that was forming in the cabin.

    So, out with the old.........

    I redressed the hatch opening, and fitted a rubber seal/trim which should help prevent irritating drips etc, and keep the surrounding areas dry. The trim is from a motor factors, usually used on car doors.

    I'm working through the cabin in sections and have removed and recovered the ceiling panels. Now I'm working my way around the cabin walls and have done the port side, using the old lining as a template. Once everything is sealed up watertight and the lining is done, I will fit the various cabinets, the worktop with sink and cooker and generally start to put the finishing touches to the boat.

    A few pics included, showing the window removed (how exciting) and refitted, sealed and waiting to be cleaned up, after removing my usual masking tape approach.

    Still a list of little fiddly jobs to do, but getting there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Almost finished the interior re-line. All the windows have been removed, cleaned up and refitted, properly sealed and weathered in the process. I will soon be in a position to fit out the cabin, putting all the various bits and pieces in at last. Pics will follow, but for now, a question.

    I want to make a cover of sorts for the boat and my problem is the seats on deck, which stand higher than the gunwale and so, would be above the line I want to take for the cover. I don't want to have to make pockets to facilitate the seat backs. Apart from the work involved, I don't want to create any possible water traps in the cover. I'd prefer to keep it smooth and streamlined.

    The cover in question would be fitted whenever the boat is docked/moored to keep any rain off the dash/instruments/cabin entrance and would be held in place with pop/ stud fasteners and possibly a strap or two for extra security.
    ( Belt and braces approach)

    Anyway, I'm looking at possible ways to temporarily remove the seats. I've included pics to show the base, with the two levers that operate the swivel and slide functions. The seat itself bolts onto the base, from beneath, with four screws. I'm thinking of removing the screws and hinging the seats at the front of the plate, with a clip or two at the back, to release the seat and let it tilt forward. With the seats swivelled to face each other, they should have enough clearance to tilt and clear the line of the cover. I think that hinging forward is safer and more secure than hinging backwards.

    Another thought was to cut the upright pole on the base near the top and insert a sleeve with a bolt passing through, drilled out to take a locking pin. I think this arrangement is known as a cotter pin.

    Anybody have any thoughts on any alternative approaches? Any input appreciated.

    PS. A cover would also help keep a lot of foliage and gunk off the boat, as you can see. But it WILL get a major wash and polish before too long!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Finally got the relining finished, with the exception of a small panel up under the bow. Much happier with the finish and feel of the new material and the boat is now leak and drip free!

    I started fitting out the interior and have the new worktop, sink /cooker combo in place and running water via the new tap. I got a regular household tap, with a longer than standard neck and it works fine, as it's fed via a pressure pump, so no need for a switch, but I did fit an isolating switch to the pump. It's mounted on my new panel that houses the fm radio and sockets, 12volt and USB. Speaking of which, I fitted the antenna for the radio and ran the coax in while I was at it. Only the waste to hook up now.

    Gas supply is in place for the cooker also and I've fitted the new drawer cabinet and the cooler box cabinet also. I have a nice treated trim piece to fit around the front edges of these cabinets and have the drawer fronts made up also, ready for fitting.

    So I'll be moving onto the engine and exterior soon. Just some tweaking and little bits and pieces to do and we're almost there.

    I've also organised a hinge type arrangement to allow the seats on deck to drop down out of the way of the cover I want to make, so just a bit of fettling to do on that. Looking forward to pulling the boat out into the yard and giving it a good wash and polish as it's parked under some trees at the moment and is scruffy with moss, leaves, pine needles etc. But the crud just wipes off easily, so no panic.

    Things will have to be put on hold for a week or so as I have a bedroom to make over, along with numerous other "catch ups" to sort out. But we're getting there!!!!!!

    Some pics................


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    More of the same........


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,105 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    Hi Sogood,
    Looking well, getting nearer the finish every time. Have you fitted a notch in the front of the drawer sides so you have to lift the drawer up a little to slide it open? Otherwise it will vibrate/slide out when you are underway...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Hi Sogood,
    Looking well, getting nearer the finish every time. Have you fitted a notch in the front of the drawer sides so you have to lift the drawer up a little to slide it open? Otherwise it will vibrate/slide out when you are underway...

    Thanks for the note of encouragement. I know what you mean and have small catches in mind for the drawers and doors. The drawer runners are of the (almost) self closing variety, but then your average kitchen doesn't have to bounce around fighting swells and winds, so a little help will be needed to keep things in place. To that end I'm looking at making storage with cut outs to hold cups etc. Anything that can move will move, so I'll be doing my best to minimise anything going astray. I suppose my initial "sea trials" will highlight any such issues.

    Thanks for the input and happy new year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Although I haven't really been away. Just very busy with a multitude of distractions and the fact that the touring season has well and truly started, meant that time at the boat has been limited. Having said that, I've gotten some bits done. A big step forward is the fact that I've gotten my mooring sorted, installed by a very reputable company, so happy days. All I need now is to get the boat in the water!

    Anyway, all the interior lining is finished, and I'm happy with the end result. The wiring for the solar panel is run in, with the voltage regulator fitted on my new socket panel. I also fitted my new marine speakers for my stereo, which needed some fettling, as they were a little larger than the original ones. Of course, I was working upside down in a tight space, but the sound is very good, so worth the trouble.

    I also cleaned off all the gunk and old adhesive from the dash/ shelf and cut a new covering from rubber backed floor covering. The colour is good, its non slip and it covers the various holes from previous gadgets. I didn't want to leave it in the original gel coat as the glare might have been too much. Just have to stick it down, after I've finished installing my new gadgets. I have the transducer cable run in and connected up to the depth sounder mount.

    I've also started making up the "Front" cover, which will double up as a Bimini top. This fixes on via snap/pop fasteners and will have extra straps sewn in for tying down when needed. Belt and braces! It's still a work in progress, but working out fine so far.

    After this, it's mostly engine related jobs, new hoses, belts, filters etc. etc. etc.

    As usual, some pics.......


    A load of other minor bits have been done too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Pics.

    Forgot to mention that my previous refurb, Microplus 501 is on Donedeal, just in case anyone is looking for a nice clean cabin cruiser. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    I finally feel that I'm getting nearer to the big splash. Distractions too numerous to mention has meant that I've gotten very little done to the boat, but finally I'm back on board. Every time I tick something off the list, I remember two other things that weren't on it! At least that's how it seems!

    Anyway, getting down to the smaller finer details, moving back towards the engine all the time. I haven't a whole lot to do in that regard, just small important things. Back on deck, I've fitted the side panels and gas bottle cabinet that I'd made some time ago. I didn't want to fit them until I had a cover of sorts organised, which is now in place. I fitted a small adjustable leg to the front underside of the cabinet, just to support it as it rides clear of the floor, just to help eliminate "rising damp". This leg is actually part of a microphone stand! As per a previous suggestion, I'll probably take the sharp corner off the front of the cabinet, after I've gotten some black trim to cover the edge.

    I also fitted the plug/cap for my anchor line, which I intend to store in a bucket below deck, in the cavity at the prow. The line will be fixed at this point, and will be tied off at the cleat on deck when in use.

    I also fitted my antenna, which I modified slightly so that I could use the original stainless steel chrome mount, which adjusts and swivels every way you'd want. It's also nice and shiny!!

    A new fuel sender is on order, as the original is American and doesn't get on too well with my replacement European faria fuel gauge. It works, but in reverse!

    I have fitted a new European hitch to the trailer as the original American ball is a slightly different size. I hope to incorporate the braking system on the trailer with the new (spring loaded) hitch. I'm looking at the possibility of setting up a handbrake on the trailer also, useful when launching. We shall see.........

    A number of minor fiddly things done also. Those jobs that don't show up but take a lot of time. Some pics as usual.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    You can see that I took the seats off their pedestals to give myself more room to work and also to look at ways to make the seats fold down, as they stand above the line of the canopy. I noticed that they have a simple nut and bolt at either end of the base, which acts as a "stop" when sliding the seats forward and back. The seats have a lever which must be disengaged to allow them to slide, so I'm happy to remove the forward nuts, which allow the seats to slide fully off the base. Problem solved!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Still pottering along, nothing major, but time consuming and important. I'm trying to get everything done that need to be done while the boat is on dry land. Then finish off and fine tune once launched. But there's always some tool or nut and bolt etc. that you need and having everything at hand is an asset. we shall see......

    I've gotten my gas supply connected up, antenna coax run through to the radio, which will be mounted permanently, 12v socket on the dash for a hand held spotlight etc. and another 12v socket in the galley dedicated to the 12v kettle. I've repaired and refitted the aluminium trim around the base of the engine cover and started replacing the hoses on the cooling system. I also picked up my graphics for the boat, including the boat name and phone number to go on my mooting buoy. No pics, for obvious reasons, but getting there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Rain stopped play today but I got a bit done below deck. I picked up some contact material with my graphics and dressed off the doors and drawer fronts on my cabinets and did likewise with the toilet door. It makes things look a little less bland.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Finally got the fxx*****xx hoses fitted. What a pain, limited access, pushing and twisting, hands and knees (knees locking in place occasionally). One of the original hoses had a made up connection on it and I know why. It meant that the two very inaccessible ends could be connected independently, then the hose was joined up! That had to go.

    I also removed the belts for replacement and cleaned up the pulley grooves and got a coat of primer on them as well as doing the rocker covers. These were looking sad and crusty but are ready now for their new (probably red) paint. The manifolds and risers will be repainted in their original black.

    I had wanted to remove the rocker covers to clean them up properly, but this isn't possible without removing the manifold risers first. There just isn't room to get them clear otherwise.

    Another fun job lying ahead is to change the spark plugs. They are mounted down low on the engine, under the manifolds, below the deck level. The port side has better access but not so on the starboard side. I'd seriously consider fitting an access/inspection panel in the floor on that side. The rather temporary "supports" on either side of the engine, installed by a PO, will be replaced with something more permanent. These supports just give the floor area on either side of the engine a little more rigidity.

    Anyway, just the one pic to show the engine looking a bit tidier. The temporary wire ties around some hoses etc. is just to hold them clear while painting.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Looking good. Its amazing how much boats hurt us bending and twisting to get at things it's only since after my heart attack and been put on aspirin that I see the cuts and bruises all over my body I look like I have been in a car crash or a member of fight club :D





    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Too true! I should have factored band aids into the refurb costs! But all worth it in the end. Looking forward to seeing pics of your big splash. Where will you put it in the water? Is transport going to be an issue?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I have hired a truck and crane from Kennedy Haulage for this end and then the hoist in Lakeside Marina Athlone to lift it off, I think I'll get a good deal as when I called to arrange it he said he was following the restoration :)




    O I found a handy bit of equipment for getting at those hard to reach spark plugs :D















































    18425004_1861085794158447_6669053332393313555_n_zpscv6kq3g3.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,105 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    I like the padded upholstery!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Still tinkering away at the oily bits. Just back from being away for the last 12 days and straight into the overalls. I'm tidying up the engine with new coil, distributor, rotor, leads, plugs, all fluids and fuel pump on the "to do" list. I've already replaced many of the hoses and am cleaning and painting the more obvious bits. Today I got the risers and manifolds and block cleaned up and got a coat of black on them. Tomorrow, weather permitting I'll get to do the red finish on the other parts already rust primed.

    There still seems to be so many small things to do, but we're getting there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Got some more done, nothing major but the "to do" list is getting shorter. I got a coat of red heat resistant paint on the engine bits and one more coat should see it right. I also finished off the ceiling in the head. The panel that I made up to replace the original, mushy one, due to rain getting in through the multitude of screw holes etc, has been recovered in the newer fabric and fitted in place, complete with a light, all working and finished! I also made up a panel, covered in the same way, to dress off the inside of the forward hatch. Nice and tidy now.

    I replaced the badly melted and brittle rubber overflow hose from the carb to the fuel pump. This has been routed and clipped in place to avoid coming in contact with anything hot or vibrating.

    I replaced the dodgy float switch on the bilge pump and ran in a new fused supply after finding the original one had been cut off! The new switch is mounted slightly different, to allow it to sit lower when the bilge is dry, with a better guarantee of actually switching off the pump when appropriate.

    Back on the road working from Tuesday, so not a whole lot happening this week, but getting closer. A shopping list is being compiled for all the replacement engine components, plugs, leads, coil, oil, filters, impellar etc. etc.

    The big splash beckons!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    So, no hatches today and there might never be! I had a senior moment and made a bit of a blunder, when I discovered a pair of large stringers either side of the engine. Now where the hell did they come from?? I honestly don't remember seeing them before, or at least I didn't take any notice of them!

    Anyway, the stringers run through where the hatches go, and they sit right up under the deck, thus closing off the access that I was trying to create. They would give me just a little more access to the lower parts of the engine, but hardly worth the effort. I could cut some of the top off the stringers, but I'm reluctant to compromise the strength/integrity of the boat. So, the jury's out for the moment.

    Having said that, I did get the old spark plugs out and what a PITA that was. They are so difficult to get at, especially on the starboard side, with a starter motor and alternator to get past, not to mention assorted hoses. They are tucked up underneath the exhaust manifolds and I needed a mirror just to see them. Then I had to work, back to front and upside down, just to get a plug spanner on them. Thanks to my slim build, I was able to get my arm down between the deck and the engine, but not without some war wounds!!

    I haven't fitted the new plugs yet as I want to give the cylinders a squirt of oil first and turn the engine before actually starting it. I did fit my new plug leads and coil and I'm surprised that the engine started and ran so sweetly when I was buying the boat. I appreciate that it's been sitting up for a while, but the amount of crud and corrosion on the leads, coil and plugs was unreal. The rotor is new and I cleaned up the inside of the distributor while I was at it, so all good in that department. With the electronic ignition there are no points to bother with.

    I also tidied up some of the wiring, taping it up and incorporating it into the existing looms. My new alternator and power steering belts are also fitted now.

    Any thoughts of my "hatch" situation are most welcome.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Today I got my replacement seat supports fitted at the back of the deck, either side of the engine cover. The original ones had deteriorated quite a bit, so, out with the old.......

    The rear seats are removable for greater deck/fishing space. I also cleaned up the rear panel that sits above the seats, just inside the transom and I have a forrmica laminated panel ready to go in that will close up the gap above the rear seats. This looks better and prevents the seats from sliding backwards. I'm going to replace the aluminium strip at the back edge of the engine cover with a rubber trim, just to seal the "joint" as the point where the two meet is directly above the distributor and coil. The less water that drips down there, the better. I'm also going to fit a small channel along the laminated panel to help divert any water that does get in. Pictures anon will explain better.

    That's all I got done today, as the heat was unreal and there were plenty of stops and starts. I won't be back at the boat until next weekend when I want to pull it out from under the trees and give it a serious scrubbing, weather dependant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Home for the weekend and I spent yesterday going around in circles. Everything I considered doing seemed to have a load of preparatory jobs to do first. But isn't that always the way? Anyway, I walked away before I started making blunders! Today I approached things with a fresh eye and actually got something done.

    I had to visit Marineparts during the week while in Dublin, just to change the spark plugs, as they sent me the wrong ones. While there, some nice seats caught my eye and to save any messing about with my current ones, regarding the fact that they're solid and intrude above my new canopy, it was a no brainer. So now I have new seats fitted, after a bit of fettling to sort out the fixing points. On the new seats, the fixing screws line up exactly with the sliding mechanism on my existing bases! This was overcome by making a 1/2" plywood sandwich, between the existing base and the new seat. The plywood fixes onto the new seat using the seats fixing screws and then in turn, fixes onto the existing seat base/plints, via the base fixing points.

    I'm more than happy with the seats, the look and the fact that they fold flat, below the line of the cover.

    I also made up a small unit to house the VHF radio and incorporates a small cubby hole/storage. It's 1/2" plywood, covered in formica, like much of my new panels etc. I was stuck for space on the dash and didn't want to mount the radio up top, as I want to leave it clear and uncluttered. I already have my depth sounder/ fish finder mounted there and want to leave the radio fixed permanently, but protected. Happy with how things are shaping up.

    Hope I get into the water while we still have the weather!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Got back home on Sunday and tried to work on the boat on Monday, but rain stopped play. Today I tackled it again and got a job finished that was always going to be awkward, but proved to be even more so. I wanted to replace the fuel pump, as the one in it looked very crusty on the outside, with the inside being not much better I suspect. I was a pita to get at, with the fuel/water separator in the way. No problem I thought, just unscrew the filter. No way would it budge, even after sacrificing it with a long screwdriver driven through it. ( I bought some spares as I intend changing them often to start with, given the water in fuel history) Still no joy so I undid the fuel lines, not helped by a PO rounding off the brass nuts with a vice grips, and removed the housing, with filter attached. Off to the bench vice and after a load of soaking, drilling, cutting, tapping, etc. I finally got it off. I cleaned out the housing and the fuel lines too, which had a load of salty residue inside them!

    With the way clear, I got the old pump off and after some fiddling, got the new one fitted. It's a mechanical pump which needs to have the plunger in the block slid back out of the way, in order to fit the pump. So you finish up being in your own way, working below floor level, under the exhaust manifold.

    Finally got everything back in place, with stiff back, stiff knees, but happy to have this particular job out of the way. I want to replace the fuel line from the tank and have everything in the fuel system clean and fresh. To that end, I'd like to clean/ flush the inside of the tank. Remember way back when I emptied the old stale fuel from the tank? I'd like to flush out any residue and prevent any new fuel from softening any goo that may still be present. Any thoughts on the best approach for this?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I used one of these oil sump pumps and was able to get into every corner with the hose.


    20160527_085555_zpsat0ogpy6.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Thanks for that. I'm specifically looking at cleaning out the tank, as the old petrol can apparently, leave a "varnish" type residue, which softens and breaks down with the introduction of new petrol. It would be possible to remove the tank and wash it out with petrol or similar, and then pressure wash it if needed. A simpler approach would be welcome, but I still want to do it right.

    I don't want to cut corners as regards running. No good having all the whistles and bells if you're left stranded, adrift with a gummed up carb!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Took the leg off today to replace the impellar etc. and was surprised to see what had been passing itself off as a water pump. The old impellar was destroyed, with much of it being stuck inside the upper and lower housing in a sort of rubbery goo. I got everything cleaned up and just have to collect some new seals and gaskets next Tuesday when I'm in Dublin again with work.
    Top and bottom sections of the leg are cleaned up, ready for sealing and refitting. I had gotten an impellar kit but ordered the wrong one, so a replacement is called for. Although the boat came with a new impellar and housing, I still want to replace the gaskets, seals and wear plate.

    I made up a little stand, using some old doors, to sit the leg in while I worked on it and it made life very easy.

    I also got my new panel fitted behind the rear deck seats, having replaced the aluminium trim on the engine cover, with some rubber trim. This helps to keep the rain out. I also added an aluminium "gutter" to the rear panel, as any rain that runs down, falls right on top of the coil, distributor and spark plug leads. So now this will be diverted safely away to either side of the engine and into the bilge.

    That and a few other little minor jobs made today quite productive. I've also included some pics of the aforementioned gummed up fuel pump and fuel lines. Allied to the corroded connections on the leads, coil and plugs, I'm amazed that the boat ran so well when I bought it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    As mentioned. How did this thing run?? Anyway, all is good now, new pump, lines cleaned, filters replaced and the carb had been rebuilt. We shall see......


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    While you have the leg off I would recommend getting a full bellows kit and water intake pipe, I have seen bellows fail and sink a boat so well worth the few quid especially after seeing the state of the impeller :eek:







    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    You're giving me food for thought. Although I don't have the whole leg off, just the lower section as that's all that's needed to change the impeller.


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    It will be money well spent and you will have piece of mind when it's done. Also as the impeller looks like it got hot it would be worth checking the one way valves number 7 in the photo if your boat has them these can brake off and clog the cooling system they look like the heal of a shoe when they come apart.

    37690_zpshtwseidu.png


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