Let the games commence

sogood · 18-07-2016 12:22am

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Fergal is better at this stuff than I, but I'd paint first and then fit the rubbing strake. Have you considered where/how to fix the rowlocks? Also, before painting I'd think about a strengthening the transom to hold a small outboard..........

Thanks for the thoughts and I know what you mean, but I did the gunwale and strake to add some rigidity, which helps the repairs to the hull, minimising any flexing. It's all good and rigid now!
I'll be varnishing the plywood gunwale and fitted the strake first, to avoid any scratching or marking of the varnish, as it took a bit of persuasion to get the strake on! Plus, I can flip it over and let it rest on the strake, when I'm painting the boat.

I thought about the transom, re; an outboard, but I'll only be rowing about 25 meters max out to the mooring, so thought I could do without the expense, maintenance etc. of the luxury of an outboard.

I intend to fit the rowlocks onto the inside of the gunwale, possibly sitting into a small tubular housing, to allow them to swivel. It's all a work in progress, a side project being done on a budget, as I got the boat for free to start with.

Thanks again for the input.

sogood · 25-07-2016 7:12pm

So, finally got a bit of a gap in an otherwise hectic work schedule, so now I can concentrate on more important things!

I fitted the rubbing strake using cable tis as previously mentioned and stripped down all the old paint from the hull. The fibreglass repairs to the keel have been finished and I also laid down two layers of glass along the length of the keel on the inside.

After much scrubbing and cleaning, I got the first coat of paint on the inside, using some 2pak that I have left over from the Microplus. I'm hoping to have enough to finish the whole boat.

I also sanded down the bench seat, exposing the nice mahogany underneath, which will be varnished.

The hull is now ready for some filling and rubbing, having exposed a load of scuffs and dings after stripping the paint, not to mention the few new ones that I created myself! But we're getting there.

Some pics.

fergal.b · 25-07-2016 7:20pm

Looking good, I spotted these on Adverts http://www.adverts.ie/parts-accessories/new-pair-clamp-on-oar-locks/10972440 might work for you.

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sogood · 25-07-2016 9:01pm

fergal.b wrote: »

Looking good, I spotted these on Adverts http://www.adverts.ie/parts-accessories/new-pair-clamp-on-oar-locks/10972440 might work for you.

.

Thanks, I saw that. I'm thinking about a simple block, fitted to the inside of the gunwale, with a hole down through it to take the oar lock. This would allow the oar lock to swivel/rotate. It would be a simple DIY job, which is the general approach with this boat. Just a simple enough refurb on a shoestring.

Thanks again.

batmanzed · 27-07-2016 1:23am

Hi sogood, I am really interested in your microplus refurb, I have one myself and finally have a shed big enough to consider tackling it over the winter. I can't seem to find practicalboating.com to have a look at your full blog, does it still exist?

sogood · 27-07-2016 9:03am

batmanzed wrote: »

Hi sogood, I am really interested in your microplus refurb, I have one myself and finally have a shed big enough to consider tackling it over the winter. I can't seem to find practicalboating.com to have a look at your full blog, does it still exist?

Hi there, yes, you're right, practicalboating just disappeared overnight! I've looked high and low to no avail. It's a pity as it was a good site and community, but there you go.

I think pretty much everything I did to the Microplus is covered here, but if you have any questions, just ask. DNME's post is also well worth taking a look at, as it's a similar set up, but with a ton more work!

Where are you based and don't forget, lots of pics!!

sogood · 28-07-2016 7:46pm

Still pottering along with the punt, but getting there. I salvaged an old section of flooring/decking that came out of the Wellcraft and was surplus to requirement.

This was cut down and modified to fit the punt. I wasn't happy with the prospect of standing directly on the hull or of accidentally dropping anything heavy onto it, so now I have a floor of sorts!

I also finished off the filling and sanding and got a coat of paint on the outside, courtesy of the Microplus refurb, as the 2 pack paint was left over (unmixed of course!)

Another coat of paint and it will be put to use and then I can get back to working on the Wellcraft.

sogood · 31-07-2016 10:18am

Nothing terribly exciting with paint drying, but the little punt is almost done. After two coats of paint and two of antifoul it's looking much more respectable.

I also made a pair of oars, using two shovel handles and some "plastic" type of material, left over from some facia board. It's light, strong, with a tiny bit of flex and it's maintenance free. (And it cost me nothing!)

Just have to make up the oar locks, varnish the gunwales and oars, fit a hook at the front and she's good to go.

Then it's back to the Wellcraft.

sogood · 08-08-2016 8:00pm

So, the punt is pretty much ready for the water, given that I'm not going to fit a VHF radio, cooker, porta potti etc. etc. I was still scratching my head thinking about how I might make up a pair of oar locks, when, rummaging through some of the boxes of bits and pieces that came with the Wellcraft, what did I find only a pair of new, unused oar locks!! What are the chances??

Anyway, fitted them into the pre fitted blocks on the inside of the gunwales, finished the varnishing, did my beads of sealant and that's about it.

I also fitted some hooks into the oars, linked by a light chain to the leg of the oar locks, so the oar locks can't fall out and the oars can't fall overboard. I also fitted a piece of plastic pipe to the oars where they sit in the oarlocks, just to reduce the wear and tear to them.

I also fitted a small €10 hand pump to help pump out any rainwater that builds up in the boat while it's sitting in the water. It's a simple but effective pump and in the pics, the hammers are just in place to hold the plastic tube in place while the adhesive sets.

So, all going well, the Microplus will be put out on its mooring on Wednesday, when I'm free and the tide and weather looks favourable.

Now it's back to the Wellcraft........................................

sogood · 11-08-2016 7:05pm

Not exactly a huge event in the grand scheme of things, but today, I got the punt into the water and the Microplus is now out on it's mooring in the harbour. It will be so much simpler to take it out, now that it's not tied up in a row of several other boats!

The biggest issue was rowing back to the harbour wall in the punt. I've never rowed a boat before and it took a while to get any sort of fluid movement, which wasn't helped by a very stiff breeze, blowing me back into the opposite side of the harbour. I finally gave up and allowed myself to drift, until I was alongside the "wrong" wall, whereupon I got ashore and pulled the punt back around the harbour to it's proper mooring spot. One guy came over to have a look as he thought I was swimming my dog!

So, a little bit of practice is called for.

We had intended to do a bit of fishing, but it was very choppy and uncomfortable, so we called it a day, but, that just meant that I could potter about on the Wellcraft.

I pumped out the last 20 litres of old petrol from the tank, leaving just a film of petrol behind and refitted and sealed the tank sender unit while I was at it. It should have been fixed down with 5 screws, but it only had three, so, I cleaned off the surfaces, and replaced the missing screws. I'm sure that it wouldn't have helped to keep water out of the tank with the sender being fixed in such a "lob sided" way.

I also took the old (vey stiff and slippery) fuel/water separator filter off and found it to be quite rusted and full of water. So, the plan is to get a handful of these, some fresh fuel and filters and run the engine on muffs, replacing the separators as I go. I imagine the new fuel will help flush/dilute anything that's left. Any thoughts?

In the meanwhile, I will finish of the interior trim and start getting the cabin back in order.

Some pics taken today.......

sogood · 14-08-2016 6:34pm

Back to the Wellcraft! I'm continuing with the interior lining and it's slow going as I'm doing more of the fiddly bits. Measure, cut, offer it up, mark again, trim, offer it up again etc. etc. But getting there.

Today I concentrated on tidying up the area around the forward hatch, and it needed some serious tidying! It was way too rough and irregular to attempt to cover it, especially as I'm using a vinyl material, with little or no "give" unlike a fabric which has some stretch and is much more forgiving.

First I had to grind back a number of high, lumpy areas of fibreglass and put some shape on the hatch opening. Then my old friend, pipe insulation, was used to cover the hatch "frame" to give me a cleaner, more consistent area to cover. Then I covered the rather irregular corner, running across the width of the boat, using a camping/yoga mat. This is a nice semi rigid foam, which covers a multitude of sins and gives a nice surface to work on.

Then I could start covering with vinyl, which worked out pretty well, with just a little bit of tweaking to do. I've also cut a pair of panels, like in the main ceiling area, to cover the areas on either side of the hatch. I'm doing much of this in a patchwork sort of way, as the vinyl I got was a roll end and a little bit shorter than I needed, but it's working out fine.

No work will be done tomorrow, as the tide is good and the forecast is better, so a little bit of fishing is called for.

Some pics may help to explain things better.........

sogood · 14-08-2016 6:37pm

And a few more pics......

sogood · 16-08-2016 7:53pm

Well we got our day out fishing, and what a day! Blue skies, no big winds and even some fish. The good woman is "hooked" having caught her first fish ever! We got a few mackerel and then, after stopping off on the way back in at a likely looking spot, we caught another 16. We could have continued, but we had enough. best to leave some for the other fishermen (and women).

But today it was back to the interior lining, which should be finished off tomorrow.

I tackled the front vee section, which had a very rough, uneven corner running across the full width. This corner is right in the line of sight as you enter the cabin and was going to be awkward to cover neatly.

So, I "made" a new corner, by fixing a strip of 1/2" plywood along the rough edge, straightening out the humps and hollows. This allowed me to cover the corner more tidily and gave me something to staple the vinyl onto, as well as using the adhesive.

My small "ceiling" panels for the corner sections are made up and one is fitted. I just have to cover the opposite "port" side and we're pretty much done. Then a clean up and refit the black trim pieces.

A little tip of sorts that I devised as I went along, is a way to tidy up the joints/corners etc. As mentioned, being a little bit short of vinyl, I did something of a patchwork, in lots of individual sections. It's easier to work this way, but creates a lot more joins. So, if you can't disguise something, then make a bit of a feature of it! So whenever I had a joint, I just folded the inside edges of the vinyl over on itself and stuck it down. This creates a sort of "roll" and hides the cut edge. When two of these "rolls" meet, the finish isn't half bad. likewise, one section rolled, where it runs into a corner has the same effect.

Some pics as usual.......

fergal.b · 16-08-2016 8:52pm

Nice, might get you to do mine now

Always good to have the other half onboard and enjoying it

.

sogood · 24-08-2016 12:49am

I'm looking at the possibility of removing the holding tank on my waste disposal system and am looking for thoughts on this. As things stand, I have to replace a few hoses and thought about the modification at the same time.

I don't ever see me being on the inland waterways and would prefer not to be carrying a septic tank around with me all the time!

I've enclosed sketches of the current set up and the proposed set up. One of the odd aspects of the current set up, is that the dockside waste extraction, draws the waste from one leg of the "Y" valve and not from the tank itself. I would have thought that straight from the tank would be the simpler, more effective way to go, but I've seen some schematics where this is the case, but most do seem to draw directly from the tank.

My proposal is to eliminate the holding tank altogether and run the waste from the pan, via the macerator, to the through hull outlet.

I may have to fit a vented loop to the waste outlet, although none are fitted at present, but this isn't an issue.

Another consideration is the fact that at present, there are two switches in the loo, one for "flush" and one for "macerator". This allows the flushed waste to go to the holding tank, where it is drawn out and macerated before being flushed out through the seacock. As I wouldn't have a holding tank, my proposal is to operate both "flush" and "macerator" simultaneously, from the same switch, so that waste is flushed, sucked through the macerator and out through the hull, all in one go.

I'd probably use a delay switch, which, after being pressed, stays on for a determined number of seconds, to give enough time to actually flush and discharge.

PS. The "current set up" is factory spec. and is how the boat is set up from new.

Any thoughts or input much appreciated.

sogood · 27-08-2016 5:53pm

Hi all, still looking for any experienced sages regarding my waste question, but in the meantime............

I got my new (either side of the door) panels cut to size and shape after some fettling and adjusting, re-fettling, re-fitting, you know how it goes. But I did save myself a bit of work by cutting a template from hardboard, using the shape of the first panel. As the boat is the same shape on either side, this gave me a good basis to start from.

The new panels will be covered on both sides, in a hard wearing "Formica" type material and they will stop short of the deck, to avoid soaking up any water. I'm also incorporating a drip slip, using some of my old friend, left over plastic facia board. This is the same stuff I used to make the oars for my punt.

The replacement panels were "dry fitted" and the door was hung just to ensure that everything works and fits, so tomorrow I'll start covering them and hopefully get them fitted.

Some pics to show what I mean, including one that clearly shows the damage that long term water ingress will cause to plywood!

sogood · 31-08-2016 10:05am

So, I got my new panels finished, with just the black trim to fix along the outside to cover the overlap/join between the existing fibreglass and the panels. These strips are rebated so the will sit nice and snug and finish things off nicely.

I also spent a while with the circuit tester identifying and verifying the wiring at the old fuse board. This was of the old glass fuse variety and was mounted beneath the dash. Exposed to the elements and not very easily accessible!

So I've fitted a new blade type fuse board on the opposite side of the panel, inside the toilet and will make a small cabinet to cover it up, just for appearances. Now the fuses are clearly identified and much easier to get to.

The side wall/door panel of the toilet had been removed for removing the old interior lining and renewing same, but I've left it off for the moment as it makes access much easier for working on the pan/plumbing/waste holding tank, which is still a work in progress.

Now, what's next..........................

sogood · 02-09-2016 8:39pm

Now that the fuse board is moved and so much more accessible, I'm sorting out the electrics. Despite being 26 years old, the wiring is in pretty good shape with not an awful lot of tampering, but some.

I'm working through each of the circuits, identifying what does what and marking same, for future reference. I'm also drawing small individual circuit diagrams as I go, so I know how things actually are, as opposed to how they might have been when new and untouched. As well as that, most circuit diagrams are a multiple of circuits, laid on top of each other etc. etc. Individual diagrams are so much easier to follow.

I'm in the process of upgrading the nav lights, as the factory spec is just a small single lamp on the bow, with a green and red lens. I want to fit individual port and starboard lamps on either side of the top deck.

Firstly, the existing wiring on the nav light had a short, which blew the fuse. Found that and sorted it. Then I had power going to the light, but no return to ground. Eventually found a broken connection on a big multi pin connector block beneath the dash. Sorted that.

Then, power going to the light but none at the actual light fitting. Found a break inside the insulation right at the bulb holder. Sorted that.

Now, thanks to my multi meter, all is good. I have the wiring identified and can now run new,extra tails to my new lights, with the fuse suitably upgraded.

A small question. The switch for the nav lights is a three position switch. Centre position is "OFF" one side is "NAV" and the other side is "ANCHOR". This anchor light is, I presume, the white light fitted to the upper transom and is used when actually at anchor? I'll be looking into the wiring on that tomorrow.

fergal.b · 02-09-2016 8:58pm

Yep the white light is the anchor light and should be visible 360 degrees and about 2 miles from the boat.

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pedroeibar1 · 02-09-2016 11:54pm

The white light on the transom is the stern light - the anchor light is probably on the wheelhouse top.

sogood · 03-09-2016 9:16am

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

The white light on the transom is the stern light - the anchor light is probably on the wheelhouse top.

Yes, that makes more sense. The light on the transom isn't visible 360 degrees as it sits flat, but there is a white light on top of an aluminium tubular mast, which folds up/down and is mounted on top of the windscreen. This light can be seen 360 degrees.

So now I know what's what with the wiring! As mentioned the toggle switch has two "on" positions, one for nav and one for anchor, so the tail light should operate on the nav position and the masthead light on the anchor position.

That will save me a lot of confusion. Thanks for the clarification.

pedroeibar1 · 07-09-2016 2:59pm

I should also mention that the mastlight also doubles as a steaming light, and should come on when the Nav lights are lit. (just in case you wonder what that stray wire is for

) See Here

sogood · 08-09-2016 8:00pm

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

I should also mention that the mastlight also doubles as a steaming light, and should come on when the Nav lights are lit. (just in case you wonder what that stray wire is for ) See Here

Kind of thought that! No big issue to sort that out. I also got my cabin lights wired up and running. Then work got in the way but I'm happy with how things are going. Thanks for the input.

fergal.b · 08-09-2016 9:09pm

Lidl had 12v led light bulbs in today for €3.99 http://www.lidl.ie/en/Offers.htm?action=showDetail&id=44703 just incase your looking, I picked up a few for myself.

.

sogood · 20-09-2016 7:17pm

Work took me away, getting back home just last weekend. Then the car needed some attention, but finally got back to the boat. Most of the electrics are now sorted and I've moved on to the toilet set up. I took the pan etc. from the boat to work on and also removed any surplus hoses, given that I'm doing away with the waste holding tank. This has also been removed and thankfully it contained nothing but fresh water with the blue chemical additive.

I managed to pump it dry, using my little €9 hand pump and now I have extra storage space on deck, complete with an access flap, so somewhere to store tools etc. To that end, if anyone can make any use of it, the tank is available, free, to a good home. It's in excellent shape, complete with fittings and is made from a heavy duty plastic/resin type material. It measure about 2' long by 1'x1'.

Both the toilet flush pump and the macerator pump were dead as doornails when I put power directly to them. Investigation revealed that they were seized up, probably from lack of use. So I set about dismantling, cleaning, lubricating etc. and now the macerator pump is running again, needing only a new impellar. The flush pump seems to be a bit worse, but it may be salvageable yet.

As soon as this is finished, the toilet panel can be replaced and then the interior is almost finished. Just the sink, cooker and new worktop, oh and the new cabinet for the fridge/cooler box and yes, the new storage cabinet and drawer. Where does it end?

But it's all good. Pics will follow.

sogood · 23-09-2016 3:10pm

Talking with some of the experts over on iboats forums, it seems likely that I will reinstate the holding tank and save myself some work and possible grief with the electrics.
I will however modify the way that the systems works as per factory and simplify things along the way. I will of course post as and when (and how) I get along with this.

Otherwise I'm being a little bit distracted by a refurb on the kitchen. No harm when the weather isn't so great.

sogood · 06-11-2016 3:33pm

So, the kitchen is finished and I could finally get back to the boat. While compiling my next shopping list, I set about replacing the panels that sat on either side of the deck. These were 1/2" ply, "protected" with a coat of emulsion paint! Needless to say, they were disintegrating, so............

I made up new panels, with a storage box fitted in each, as opposed to the open shelf that was on the originals. The panel on the port side incorporates a cabinet for the small gas bottle for the cooker and everything is covered in the same white formica that I used on the panels either side of the cabin door.

The cabinet sits clear of the deck to avoid any water ingress and the open ends of the plywood were first covered with slips, glued and pinned in place.

All the interiors and exposed parts will be liberally varnished with several coats.

Some pics included, showing the original panel and my new set up, temporarily fitted for a look see. I have the replacement panel made up for the opposite side also and they should look fine, especially when the black trim pieces are replaced.

pedroeibar1 · 07-11-2016 11:59am

Very sharp corner.... I have an aversion to them on boats! Could you 'round' it?

sogood · 07-11-2016 3:30pm

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Very sharp corner.... I have an aversion to them on boats! Could you 'round' it?

A valid point (no pun intended!) The corner is well out of the way, especially when the seat is replaced. I took it out just to give myself some room to work. The cabinet itself is as shallow as possible, allowing about half the depth of the gas cylinder to sit in under the gunwale overhang.

Having said that, I do have some light plastic trim, which will bend easily with a little heat, so I may well trim the corner off and cover it like so. I left it square originally, to allow me to fit a wooden slip over the raw edge of the plywood, which in turn has gotten it's first coat of varnish. But you're probably right, watch this space and thanks for the input.

sogood · 24-11-2016 9:31pm

So, my latest shopping list is en route as I type, so the waste plumbing and toilet can be reinstated, along with a few other odds and ends, including some tweaking on the engine.
In the meantime, I finished off my deck panels, including a new one for the stern, covering up the gap through which the engine was exposed. I also made up the cabinet for the 12 volt cool box, which will sit in the space where the original fridge would have been. The cool box slides out on a rolling shelf, giving clear access to the contents, and it sits down in a cutout into the base, so it wont wander about in transit.

It has gotten a few coats of varnish also, as has all the panels, despite the fact that it will be indoors, in the cabin and inside a unit. Belt and braces!!

This cabinet has since been fitted with doors, covered in white formica ( I have plenty) and the drawer and daft "press" alongside will be remodelled also.

So, lots to do still with pics to follow, but included some of the cool box cabinet.

sogood · 25-11-2016 7:43pm

So, my latest shopping list arrived today, including my toilet fittings along with some accessories, so lots to be kept busy with.
In the interim, I've been busy sorting out water in the petrol tank on my car!! Hey ho, such is life. But now it's back to the really important things!!!!

sogood · 03-12-2016 8:09pm

So, nothing terribly fancy to look at, but my new toilet set up is plumbed, wired and working! I even got the side panel on the toilet back in place and it's nice to see things going back together again.

I had some minor issues with the waste pipe, given that it's 38mm, wire reinforced and wasn't very "giving" in the recent cold weather, but I got there in the end. One thing that bothered me is the fact that the waste out of the pan is 25mm whereas the feed into the holding tank is 38mm, requiring the use of an adaptor and therefore, a joint. The less joints and bends on a waste pipe sits better with me. Why the outlet on the pan isn't 38mm, or even have the option of interchangeable outlet fittings is beyond me. Especially as the pan comes with the required adaptors!
Anyway, I simplified the waste while I was at it and re-routed it in a more direct way to the tank, as opposed to the left turn it used to take, travelling behind the pan, before turning right, through a panel and right again, back the way it came, before reaching the waste tank. Now I have a run, about 1/4 of what it used to be, straight to the tank. Attached pics show same, with the new (yellow) waste pipe.
You might notice some cable ties on this pipe and these are fitted just to reinforce the pipe where it's inclined to want to kink, helping to keep its shape.
Also shown is my new macerator and pipework.
It doesn't look like a lot has been done, but everything was dismantled, removed, and cleaned thoroughly before re-fitting.
I tested the system with a rubber hose pushed into the through hull water intake, fed from a bucket of water. I "primed" the toilet by flushing a few bucket of water through it then ran the "flush" and everything works fine, with, importantly, no leaks.
Just the macerator switch to connect up and we're all complete.
I also fitted my new twin horns (love the shiny bits). FWIW the marks and lines on the gel coat in this picture is just dirt and cobwebs, as the gel coat is in overall very good shape. I also replaced the fuel/water separator, which amounted to removing the actual bracket/assembly and cleaning up the treads the separator screws onto as well as cleaning up the mating surfaces and blowing air through everything.
I hope to run the engine again some day next week and have a few separators to hand, just to ensure the system is properly cleaned out.
Next in line will be a new worktop (with new cutouts) to take my new/secondhand cooker/sink combo as well as remodelling the little drawer and press set up.
Anyway, that's it for now and some pics of pipework for your perusal.........

sogood · 05-12-2016 2:58pm

As mentioned in my previous post, next in line is the "kitchen" or galley as I think the proper nautical term is. I first removed the old drawer and opened up the small storage space beneath it. This storage space is simply an open part of the hull, with a channel running through it, back to the bilge for drainage, so not a lot of use for any actual storage.

To this end, I want to make up a box, (like the one my cooler sits in), with the drawer on the bottom, being the shallower section and a storage press above, reversing the current set up. I'm also relocating my fresh water pump, as it was housed in this area, but would be quite inaccessible after the remodel. I've found a space right beside the fresh water tank, which allows access to electrical and water connections.

I also removed the old alcohol cooker and sink, which are being replaced with a more compact combo unit. This will give me a lot more worktop space. A bit of a boo boo I made when getting my new/second hand combo unit, is the fact that the controls for the cooker are on the front, as opposed to being on top, which would have made life much simpler!

But I overcame this by making some cut outs to the front edge of the current worktop and will fix the unit to the front edge, allowing the controls accessed. There is a chrome trim piece that runs around the worktop, which I will fit to my new worktop, 3/4" ply, covered in formica. This trim will have two holes drilled through it to allow the fitting of the cooker knobs and it will dress everything off nicely. So, disaster averted!

A couple of pics included to give some idea of what I'm talking about.

sogood · 10-12-2016 5:27pm

Not a lot to report, but things are moving along in the right direction. I got my new worktop cut and dry fitted, with the cutout for the sink combo and finished it in white formica. Lots more workspace now.

I also got started on the second cabinet/storage area beneath the worktop. As mentioned this was a bit of a "black hole of Calcutta" and needed serious tidying and better use of the space. I took away the old drawer and door and opened up the ope left behind, just to gain a few more inches of usable storage.

The plan is to make two boxes, the shallower one on the bottom to house a cutlery drawer, with extra storage and the top box section will be deeper, following the shape of the hull, also fitted with a drawer to give good storage for other galley items.

Like my cool box set up, everything will be liberally varnished and dressed off around the front edges when finished. Waiting on some more plywood, so I will tinker with some other things in the meanwhile.

One such diversion is my plan to reline the interior. Yes, I hear you, I've already relined the interior, but, for a variety of reasons, I'm not happy with it. Part of the reason is the fact that The material I originally got was the end of a roll, with no more available and this required judicious use and plenty of patching/ joints etc. Some of the finish is bothering me and so, given the fact that I'd be looking at it for an awful long time, I thought I'd prefer to do it right.

I sourced some nice fabric, with plenty more available if need be and erred on the side of caution anyway, getting more than I'll really need. I thought while I'm at it, I will remove the windows, which makes trimming and fitting easier, and reseal the windows properly, as I've discovered a few small leaks/drips after any rain. If it's worth doing etc.

Some pics of the galley worktop and cabinets in progress.

sogood · 17-12-2016 5:03pm

Still pottering away and all the drawer units are finished, sitting in the shed for now, getting varnished. Drawer fronts are made up also and laminated like the worktop and cool box cabinet doors.

I also fitted my new fresh water pump. It's now right beside the tank and importantly, is accessible! I couldn't put it where the old one was, as this would be buried in behind the drawer units. I ran a temporary power supply to it and hooked up a standard tap, and now we have fresh water on board. The tank will be treated and flushed several times before proper use. I'll use lots of sterilising tablets, like you'd use for a babies bottle etc.

I also made up new seat supports for the seats at the rear, up on deck. The old ones were looking worse for wear, having been exposed to the elements over a long period, with little or no maintenance. Now I have nice new mahogany supports, also liberally varnished. The back rests for these rear seats were also looking a bit sad, so I've removed and dismantled them. The trimcell covers will clean up fine, but I'll replace the foam, as it had soaked up a ton of water etc.

So, lots happening off site and then it will all come together. Next major job will be the re- relining. But I'm confident that it will work out fine. Just want some dry weather for taking out the windows. gradually ticking the jobs off the list! pics to follow.

fergal.b · 17-12-2016 7:40pm

Are you using laminated sheeting and gluing it on if so where are you getting it as I might be looking for some I know the panelling centre do it just looking for other options.

.

sogood · 18-12-2016 12:33am

Yes, using a formica type material. I got it down here in Kerry. Had to go to Tralee for it. The sheets were 10'x4' and cost about €70.00 each. Plus the adhesive! I can rummage out the receipt if you want the details. The sheets had to be sent down to Kerry from their Dublin store. (Noyeks). In return, you might tell me where you got your tap. I can't find a lot online. Single, without a switch as I'm using a pressure pump.
Thanks.

fergal.b · 18-12-2016 12:43am

sogood wrote: »

Yes, using a formica type material. I got it down here in Kerry. Had to go to Tralee for it. The sheets were 10'x4' and cost about €70.00 each. Plus the adhesive! I can rummage out the receipt if you want the details. The sheets had to be sent down to Kerry from their Dublin store. (Noyeks). In return, you might tell me where you got your tap. I can't find a lot online. Single, without a switch as I'm using a pressure pump.
Thanks.

Tap is from Lidl

.

sogood · 23-12-2016 8:53pm

I'm busy pottering away on little jobs on the boat and various other "off site" jobs and hope to see a lot of things all coming together in one fell swoop.

I made up a new panel, laminated and dressed off, to replace the original, which was left filled with holes after removing redundant switchgear etc. The new panel houses a few 12volt sockets and a double USB socket. I also managed to house my radio/stereo in this panel, after some fettling, which involved cutting away some of the interior "plastic" skin on the boat, to allow the radio to sit deeper, as it wouldn't fit otherwise. I got the power supply to my freshwater pump in place and this runs behind the aforementioned panel, via an isolating switch. The same cavity will house the gas supply from the cabinet on deck,to the cooker.

On the subject of gas, I got the vent fitted as previously mentioned.

To make the most of available storage, I made up a little box to sit inside another one of those cavities that simply exist in the hull area, full of dirt and home to drainage channels. Not a lot of use for storage as is. The box has been fitted with vents at either end, just to minimise mould etc. and is being varnished at present. The wooden covers for the storage areas are all being varnished also, just for added protection.

I also started on the "re" re-lining, beginning with the ceiling panels. The original material that I used was a foam backed vinyl and I managed to peel the vinyl away, keeping the foam backing in place, which I then recovered with my new fabric. I don't know yet whether this will be possible on the cabin walls, but we shall see.

Next major job is the reline the walls, including the removal and re-sealing of the windows, so some dry weather is called for! When sealing anything in place, I tend to dry fit, then draw a pencil line around the fitting/window/vent/ whatever and then lay masking tape down along the outer edge of this line.
Then I apply my seal just inside the line and fit the item in place. The excess sealant then squeezes out onto the masking tape. After it has dried, I trim the sealant with a sharp blade and peel away the tape, taking the excess sealant with it! No mess, no major cleaning! Pics of my gas cabinet vent will explain.

On that subject, I intend to close up the cavity between the inner and outer skins, just to prevent any potential gas leak from making its way down into the bilge. Likewise with the radio, but mostly to help protect it from the elements.

That's about it for now. Pics to peruse and a Happy Christmas and peaceful New Year to all.

sogood · 23-12-2016 8:58pm

Getting there!

sogood · 29-12-2016 8:09pm

Hello all and Season's greetings. I've started on the "re" relining of the boat. This time around, I'm removing the windows first and re-sealing them, as I discovered several leaks here and there. The first relining that I did was a vinyl finish and was housing quite an amount of water in the foam backing, which I'm sure didn't help the amount of condensation that was forming in the cabin.

So, out with the old.........

I redressed the hatch opening, and fitted a rubber seal/trim which should help prevent irritating drips etc, and keep the surrounding areas dry. The trim is from a motor factors, usually used on car doors.

I'm working through the cabin in sections and have removed and recovered the ceiling panels. Now I'm working my way around the cabin walls and have done the port side, using the old lining as a template. Once everything is sealed up watertight and the lining is done, I will fit the various cabinets, the worktop with sink and cooker and generally start to put the finishing touches to the boat.

A few pics included, showing the window removed (how exciting) and refitted, sealed and waiting to be cleaned up, after removing my usual masking tape approach.

Still a list of little fiddly jobs to do, but getting there.

sogood · 03-01-2017 11:46pm

Almost finished the interior re-line. All the windows have been removed, cleaned up and refitted, properly sealed and weathered in the process. I will soon be in a position to fit out the cabin, putting all the various bits and pieces in at last. Pics will follow, but for now, a question.

I want to make a cover of sorts for the boat and my problem is the seats on deck, which stand higher than the gunwale and so, would be above the line I want to take for the cover. I don't want to have to make pockets to facilitate the seat backs. Apart from the work involved, I don't want to create any possible water traps in the cover. I'd prefer to keep it smooth and streamlined.

The cover in question would be fitted whenever the boat is docked/moored to keep any rain off the dash/instruments/cabin entrance and would be held in place with pop/ stud fasteners and possibly a strap or two for extra security.
( Belt and braces approach)

Anyway, I'm looking at possible ways to temporarily remove the seats. I've included pics to show the base, with the two levers that operate the swivel and slide functions. The seat itself bolts onto the base, from beneath, with four screws. I'm thinking of removing the screws and hinging the seats at the front of the plate, with a clip or two at the back, to release the seat and let it tilt forward. With the seats swivelled to face each other, they should have enough clearance to tilt and clear the line of the cover. I think that hinging forward is safer and more secure than hinging backwards.

Another thought was to cut the upright pole on the base near the top and insert a sleeve with a bolt passing through, drilled out to take a locking pin. I think this arrangement is known as a cotter pin.

Anybody have any thoughts on any alternative approaches? Any input appreciated.

PS. A cover would also help keep a lot of foliage and gunk off the boat, as you can see. But it WILL get a major wash and polish before too long!

sogood · 08-01-2017 9:30pm

Finally got the relining finished, with the exception of a small panel up under the bow. Much happier with the finish and feel of the new material and the boat is now leak and drip free!

I started fitting out the interior and have the new worktop, sink /cooker combo in place and running water via the new tap. I got a regular household tap, with a longer than standard neck and it works fine, as it's fed via a pressure pump, so no need for a switch, but I did fit an isolating switch to the pump. It's mounted on my new panel that houses the fm radio and sockets, 12volt and USB. Speaking of which, I fitted the antenna for the radio and ran the coax in while I was at it. Only the waste to hook up now.

Gas supply is in place for the cooker also and I've fitted the new drawer cabinet and the cooler box cabinet also. I have a nice treated trim piece to fit around the front edges of these cabinets and have the drawer fronts made up also, ready for fitting.

So I'll be moving onto the engine and exterior soon. Just some tweaking and little bits and pieces to do and we're almost there.

I've also organised a hinge type arrangement to allow the seats on deck to drop down out of the way of the cover I want to make, so just a bit of fettling to do on that. Looking forward to pulling the boat out into the yard and giving it a good wash and polish as it's parked under some trees at the moment and is scruffy with moss, leaves, pine needles etc. But the crud just wipes off easily, so no panic.

Things will have to be put on hold for a week or so as I have a bedroom to make over, along with numerous other "catch ups" to sort out. But we're getting there!!!!!!

Some pics................

sogood · 08-01-2017 9:34pm

More of the same........

pedroeibar1 · 09-01-2017 11:11am

Hi Sogood,
Looking well, getting nearer the finish every time. Have you fitted a notch in the front of the drawer sides so you have to lift the drawer up a little to slide it open? Otherwise it will vibrate/slide out when you are underway...

sogood · 09-01-2017 8:35pm

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Hi Sogood,
Looking well, getting nearer the finish every time. Have you fitted a notch in the front of the drawer sides so you have to lift the drawer up a little to slide it open? Otherwise it will vibrate/slide out when you are underway...

Thanks for the note of encouragement. I know what you mean and have small catches in mind for the drawers and doors. The drawer runners are of the (almost) self closing variety, but then your average kitchen doesn't have to bounce around fighting swells and winds, so a little help will be needed to keep things in place. To that end I'm looking at making storage with cut outs to hold cups etc. Anything that can move will move, so I'll be doing my best to minimise anything going astray. I suppose my initial "sea trials" will highlight any such issues.

Thanks for the input and happy new year.

sogood · 18-04-2017 8:17pm

Although I haven't really been away. Just very busy with a multitude of distractions and the fact that the touring season has well and truly started, meant that time at the boat has been limited. Having said that, I've gotten some bits done. A big step forward is the fact that I've gotten my mooring sorted, installed by a very reputable company, so happy days. All I need now is to get the boat in the water!

Anyway, all the interior lining is finished, and I'm happy with the end result. The wiring for the solar panel is run in, with the voltage regulator fitted on my new socket panel. I also fitted my new marine speakers for my stereo, which needed some fettling, as they were a little larger than the original ones. Of course, I was working upside down in a tight space, but the sound is very good, so worth the trouble.

I also cleaned off all the gunk and old adhesive from the dash/ shelf and cut a new covering from rubber backed floor covering. The colour is good, its non slip and it covers the various holes from previous gadgets. I didn't want to leave it in the original gel coat as the glare might have been too much. Just have to stick it down, after I've finished installing my new gadgets. I have the transducer cable run in and connected up to the depth sounder mount.

I've also started making up the "Front" cover, which will double up as a Bimini top. This fixes on via snap/pop fasteners and will have extra straps sewn in for tying down when needed. Belt and braces! It's still a work in progress, but working out fine so far.

After this, it's mostly engine related jobs, new hoses, belts, filters etc. etc. etc.

As usual, some pics.......

A load of other minor bits have been done too.

sogood · 18-04-2017 8:21pm

Pics.

Forgot to mention that my previous refurb, Microplus 501 is on Donedeal, just in case anyone is looking for a nice clean cabin cruiser. Thanks.

sogood · 10-05-2017 9:13pm

I finally feel that I'm getting nearer to the big splash. Distractions too numerous to mention has meant that I've gotten very little done to the boat, but finally I'm back on board. Every time I tick something off the list, I remember two other things that weren't on it! At least that's how it seems!

Anyway, getting down to the smaller finer details, moving back towards the engine all the time. I haven't a whole lot to do in that regard, just small important things. Back on deck, I've fitted the side panels and gas bottle cabinet that I'd made some time ago. I didn't want to fit them until I had a cover of sorts organised, which is now in place. I fitted a small adjustable leg to the front underside of the cabinet, just to support it as it rides clear of the floor, just to help eliminate "rising damp". This leg is actually part of a microphone stand! As per a previous suggestion, I'll probably take the sharp corner off the front of the cabinet, after I've gotten some black trim to cover the edge.

I also fitted the plug/cap for my anchor line, which I intend to store in a bucket below deck, in the cavity at the prow. The line will be fixed at this point, and will be tied off at the cleat on deck when in use.

I also fitted my antenna, which I modified slightly so that I could use the original stainless steel chrome mount, which adjusts and swivels every way you'd want. It's also nice and shiny!!

A new fuel sender is on order, as the original is American and doesn't get on too well with my replacement European faria fuel gauge. It works, but in reverse!

I have fitted a new European hitch to the trailer as the original American ball is a slightly different size. I hope to incorporate the braking system on the trailer with the new (spring loaded) hitch. I'm looking at the possibility of setting up a handbrake on the trailer also, useful when launching. We shall see.........

A number of minor fiddly things done also. Those jobs that don't show up but take a lot of time. Some pics as usual.

sogood · 10-05-2017 9:18pm

You can see that I took the seats off their pedestals to give myself more room to work and also to look at ways to make the seats fold down, as they stand above the line of the canopy. I noticed that they have a simple nut and bolt at either end of the base, which acts as a "stop" when sliding the seats forward and back. The seats have a lever which must be disengaged to allow them to slide, so I'm happy to remove the forward nuts, which allow the seats to slide fully off the base. Problem solved!

Let the games commence

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