soild fuel stove advise

gsxr1 · 07-10-2008 10:54pm #1

im going up to get one of those stanley oisin stove in the morning.

What do I need to do to install it?

I am in a 2 year old home with a standard 16 " fireplace that has never been lit( so its as clean as the brickys left it).

it will sit out on the hearth but the rear of the stove should go into the fireplace a little once I have taken away the Old (brand new)removable grate.

I went to a shop in sallin and he told me the flu part would be 250 euro.

of course I giggled as that was over half the price of the stove. A bit of pipe . lord god.

Is there a cheaper option. do B&Q do flu parts ?
Why is there a need to seal the stove flu into the the existing chimney flu.

I would have though the draft that draws a normal open fire would do the same to the stove.

Doctor DooM · 08-10-2008 12:02am

Moved as per OP request from home appliances.

bigstar · 08-10-2008 12:37am

that draft also takes heat up your chimney, thinking of getting a wood burning stove myself. i think because a stove produces more heat than an open fire it does more damage to your chimney if its not sealed and the flue isnt lined, you should be ableto get a flue liner cheaper in a builders providers than b&q

hopalong_ie · 08-10-2008 7:15am

Hi,

Said shop in Sallins you are talking of are very expensive. My advice would be to go to Finn McCarthys in Proporous. There a Builders providers/homevalue and i've found them cheapest around that way but i had a custom hearth made for less than the shop is Sallins wanted for an off the shelf. That was by the Fireplace Shop in Athy. There just off the river. No name but PM me if you want, What i'm saying is forget sallins shop. There very expensive and shop around.

gsxr1 · 08-10-2008 7:24am

SDooM wrote: »

Moved as per OP request from home appliances.

thanks man

hopalong_ie wrote: »

Hi,

Said shop in Sallins you are talking of are very expensive. My advice would be to go to Finn McCarthys in Proporous. There a Builders providers/homevalue and i've found them cheapest around that way but i had a custom hearth made for less than the shop is Sallins wanted for an off the shelf. That was by the Fireplace Shop in Athy. There just off the river. No name but PM me if you want, What i'm saying is forget sallins shop. There very expensive and shop around.

will ring them today. I use them every week to buy matrials for work. might get a discount.;)

bigstar wrote: »

that draft also takes heat up your chimney, thinking of getting a wood burning stove myself. i think because a stove produces more heat than an open fire it does more damage to your chimney if its not sealed and the flue isnt lined, you should be ableto get a flue liner cheaper in a builders providers than b&q

so I guess you have to pop the stove flu up the chimney around 4' then? Not the whole way up.

bigstar · 08-10-2008 12:51pm

as far as i know youve got to seal the gap between tha flue and stove pipe, with rockwool or fire cement but im no expert on this mate you really should get the proper advice because of the potential danger involved with a stove not being fitted correctly.

bigstar · 08-10-2008 12:54pm

also by looking at the picture of your fireplace, you can remove the whole fireback before you instsall your stove, and you need to make sure you have all measurements correct so the stave is not to close to the floor your fire surround etc, id get some prfessional advice first

niceirishfella · 08-10-2008 1:27pm

Hi,

Very simple install this....i did it - photos below.

Remove the fire grate etc.
Place stove on the hearth - buy a stove to suit the length of your hearth!
Make the hole in your fire heads a bit bigger by chipping away at the bits of concrete.
But some flexible stainless steel flue liner - you'll need maybe 6 to 8 foot of it. Any decent local Hardware will have this -more often a cut of a roll and ask for a discount so.
push it up into the fire head and up the chimney.
connect to your 90degree bend at the back of the stove.
Connect stove.
Make sure you have sufficent draw on your chimney.
Connect stove and light with a small fire for the first few days to allow the heat to bed in and not CRACK your plaster and to cure the stove itself.......a smell of the stove is normal:o
Hot tip....buy a can of black stove paint in a spray and spray the end of the stainless steel flue to blend into your fireplace and your new stove. I often meant to, but never got round to it as you can see in the pics below and its easier to do it at install.

I did this 2 years ago and have just cleaned the chimney last week with the flue in place.......easy maintenace too ...........enjoy the winter nights ahead!:)

AMHRASACH · 08-10-2008 1:38pm

. .what happens to the liner when you go to clean the chimney; when you push the brush up, it goes up the chimney; when you pull the brush down, it draws the liner out with the brush?

niceirishfella · 08-10-2008 2:36pm

No, the liner is stuck well up into the chinmey and doesn't move at all.

De_man · 08-10-2008 2:54pm

gsxr1; before you buy the oisin check first to see if it will fit in your fireplace
whilst a good product i don't think this is the one for your fireplace!!!!

what's your available height??? the height of the oisin is 540mm

looking at the fireplace i reckon you'll just be caught on the height, i installed one of these recently...also with the door open, the stove is 2ft , imho you need a minimum of 2' 6" hearth otherwise the floor is going to be destroyed
everytime you open the stove door

what we did was...took out the fireback, cleaned up & tiled the fireback (black tiles) so it was square and fitted the stove half way into the fireplace... (the stove stick out about 5" from the fireplace)

therefore allowing adequate room so the floor doesn't get destroyed

very neat job!!! no flu seen from the room....

don't pay the 250 euro, go to a metal fabricator, that's what i did in this instance, total flu cost 50euro:D

you'll need a reducer from the chimney liner to the flue, this allows the
stove flue to move up & down the chimney when installing/maintenance

some people use rockwool around the flue to steady/seal it, i wouldn't recommend this action, get the reducer...

as the lads said, expect a smell from the stove over a few days, infact
the last one we lit gave off a kinda blue haze in the room for the first hour

its a very straightforward job, but i must recommend you take out the fireback first

jack of all · 08-10-2008 3:50pm

Hi De Man, can I ask you how you clean your stove? I'm fitting one into an existing recess also (although I am stripping everything back to the builder's ope). Do you rod from the top down (roof) or do you remove the stove and rod up the chimney (sounds like grief)? Thanks in advance

gsxr1 · 08-10-2008 7:34pm

De_man wrote: »

gsxr1; before you buy the oisin check first to see if it will fit in your fireplace
whilst a good product i don't think this is the one for your fireplace!!!!

what's your available height??? the height of the oisin is 540mm

looking at the fireplace i reckon you'll just be caught on the height, i installed one of these recently...also with the door open, the stove is 2ft , imho you need a minimum of 2' 6" hearth otherwise the floor is going to be destroyed
everytime you open the stove door

what we did was...took out the fireback, cleaned up & tiled the fireback (black tiles) so it was square and fitted the stove half way into the fireplace... (the stove stick out about 5" from the fireplace)

therefore allowing adequate room so the floor doesn't get destroyed

very neat job!!! no flu seen from the room....

don't pay the 250 euro, go to a metal fabricator, that's what i did in this instance, total flu cost 50euro:D

you'll need a reducer from the chimney liner to the flue, this allows the
stove flue to move up & down the chimney when installing/maintenance

some people use rockwool around the flue to steady/seal it, i wouldn't recommend this action, get the reducer...

as the lads said, expect a smell from the stove over a few days, infact
the last one we lit gave off a kinda blue haze in the room for the first hour

its a very straightforward job, but i must recommend you take out the fireback first

im going to get the oisin anyway to see if it will fit. I can remove the hood type thing on the fire place. If it still does not fit I will pull the lot out and do a proper job making a square tiled recess for it.

I hope it fits . I checked the drawing and the stove should just fit with 3" to spare at the front. Will see how it goes. in real life

really want this thing. hoping to save a fortune in heating as I am a chippy and have a ton of off cuts each week. Usually put to the skip. throwing away free heat.

niceirishfella · 08-10-2008 7:41pm

It'll fit alright.

niceirishfella · 08-10-2008 7:46pm

De_man wrote: »

gsxr1; before you buy the oisin check first to see if it will fit in your fireplace
whilst a good product i don't think this is the one for your fireplace!!!!

what's your available height??? the height of the oisin is 540mm

looking at the fireplace i reckon you'll just be caught on the height, i installed one of these recently...also with the door open, the stove is 2ft , imho you need a minimum of 2' 6" hearth otherwise the floor is going to be destroyed
everytime you open the stove door

what we did was...took out the fireback, cleaned up & tiled the fireback (black tiles) so it was square and fitted the stove half way into the fireplace... (the stove stick out about 5" from the fireplace)

therefore allowing adequate room so the floor doesn't get destroyed

very neat job!!! no flu seen from the room....

don't pay the 250 euro, go to a metal fabricator, that's what i did in this instance, total flu cost 50euro:D

you'll need a reducer from the chimney liner to the flue, this allows the
stove flue to move up & down the chimney when installing/maintenance

some people use rockwool around the flue to steady/seal it, i wouldn't recommend this action, get the reducer...

as the lads said, expect a smell from the stove over a few days, infact
the last one we lit gave off a kinda blue haze in the room for the first hour

its a very straightforward job, but i must recommend you take out the fireback first

Good option -

But taking out the fireback will mean not being able to use the open fire again. The way i did it was i could take out the stove, the flue and pop the open fire grate back in, in about 2 minutes.

A real plus if you're going to sell the house (i will in a few years) - offering viewers/new owners both options - a stove or open fire. Not everyone likes stoves etc.

just a thought.

De_man · 08-10-2008 9:25pm

niceirishfella wrote: »

Good option -

But taking out the fireback will mean not being able to use the open fire again. The way i did it was i could take out the stove, the flue and pop the open fire grate back in, in about 2 minutes.

A real plus if you're going to sell the house (i will in a few years) - offering viewers/new owners both options - a stove or open fire. Not everyone likes stoves etc.

just a thought.

good point, i thought about that, but a fire back can be installed in about
an hour (once you cut it in half - across) without removing the fireplace.

personally, i prefer an open fire but you can't argue the efficiency of a stove
as you know these things give off an unmerciful amount of heat

niceirishfella · 08-10-2008 9:38pm

Fair play!

Agreed on the heat........had to strip to me boxers some nights...LOL

Swimmy · 08-10-2008 11:00pm

Just came acroos this thread and thought I would add a comment..

I would be very careful in your approach to the installation. I too would like to install a multifuel stove into an existing fireplace and have been considering my options.

My main reason for posting was to highlight the fact that there are building regulations around the installation of solid fuel stoves and distances to combustables/non-combustables and you would want to make sure you are in compliance as if you were sellign your house in the future and the installation did not conform with the standards it could be a problem.

There are standards around the installation of flexible flues etc and how they must be insulated or back-filled we mixtures of concrete and sand.

The standard can be obtained from the UK and Irish Department of Environment Website under the building regulations.

Hope it goes well for you!

Eurorunner · 09-10-2008 12:03am

Also in the process of doing exact same install as OP. That insert will have to come out won't it? If its a cast insert, it will need to be replaced with something else. I will be replacing it with granite.

As already mentioned, you will need a reducer - as you have to go from (what looks like 8" to 5" stanley flue output).
I was of the opinion that no liner was necessary in a case where theres a 8" clay chimney flue?? Any thoughts?

I'm using fireline plasterboard on back and sides (having removed fireback straight back to blockwork) - skimmed and painted.

Was also considering fitting rockwool between opening and bottom of chimney gather - held in place by a slab of fireline plasterboard - with pipe running through it in middle. Any issues with doing this?

BTW, to comply with building regs, 300mm clearance required from front of stove to front of hearth.

As regards people preferring open fires, I think there will be a rapid change of attitude on that one - and not before time!

northdublin · 09-10-2008 1:11am

i have instaled a charnwood stove into my existing fireplace, which is a very small stove but even the small stoves give off enormous ammounts of heat so i would be worried about the timber mantle piece and surround could be damaged by the heat, ie blackening or splitting of the timber.

when installing my own i used a metre long piece of enameled flue from the back of the stove which was then connected to a double skinned flue liner. i didnt connect the flue liner directly to the back of the stove as i understand this can cause damage to the liner and it just looks ugly.

all the joints have to be fire cemented especially where the flue joins the liner to stop gasses flowing back down into the room. if you dont line the flue or insulate it propperly you will get condensation problems and the gasses flowing up from the stove will cool too quickly and leave a tar deposit which can cause chiminey fires.
its not just a matter of placing the stove in the hearth and sticking the flue up the existing chimney, every house is differant and if you have the edge of a liner stuck up into an existing flue this will create a surface for soot and tar to sit and cause a potential fire in the future. if in doubt of the condition of the existing flue and to prevent the gasses escaping into your neighbors or your own house the liner should go right to the top and a suitable cowl fitted

gsxr1 · 09-10-2008 7:06am

northdublin wrote: »

i have instaled a charnwood stove into my existing fireplace, which is a very small stove but even the small stoves give off enormous ammounts of heat so i would be worried about the timber mantle piece and surround could be damaged by the heat, ie blackening or splitting of the timber.

when installing my own i used a metre long piece of enameled flue from the back of the stove which was then connected to a double skinned flue liner. i didnt connect the flue liner directly to the back of the stove as i understand this can cause damage to the liner and it just looks ugly.

all the joints have to be fire cemented especially where the flue joins the liner to stop gasses flowing back down into the room. if you dont line the flue or insulate it properly you will get condensation problems and the gasses flowing up from the stove will cool too quickly and leave a tar deposit which can cause chiminey fires.

make the connection into the the stove with some type of sealant paste.
its not just a matter of placing the stove in the hearth and sticking the flue up the existing chimney, every house is differant and if you have the edge of a liner stuck up into an existing flue this will create a surface for soot and tar to sit and cause a potential fire in the future. if in doubt of the condition of the existing flue and to prevent the gasses escaping into your neighbors or your own house the liner should go right to the top and a suitable cowl fitted

so my understanding so far is.

For the best job I such buy rock wool, flexi pipe and some 45, 90 and a straight length.

drop the flexi down the chimney to go the whole way to make a connection with a solid steel or stainless straight. center this in the flu and insulate the gap by stuffing as much rockwool around . use fire cement to seal the rockwool in. ( 0r get a reducer)

If I use a reducer a few feet up. Will I still have to use insulation to protect my chimney?

Have rockwool somewhere.

I will see how I fair with my timber mantel. I dont intend to have the stove going flat out as my room is not big. but it does have a door less staircase that lead to the landing. The rad is not enough to heat it all.

copied and pasted from some site.

Using an existing chimneyWith a stove, 80% of the heat goes into the room, with an open fire 80% of the heat goes up the chimney and this means that the smoke from a stove is great deal cooler than from a fireplace. The result of this is that a stove will usually never manage to bring a masonry chimney up to operating temerature. This can mean that the stove will never draw properly, and the cooling smoke will condense, causing excess soot and, more dangerously, tar deposits. Tar deposits are not removed by a sweeps brush and cause chimney fires and you may get black tarry condensate leaking out through the bottom and sometimes even through the mortar joints of the chimney.

For this reason it is good practise to line and insulate a chimney whenever you fit a stove - see Lining a Chimney

We can liase with your builder and supply all the materials he will need to complete the chimney lining job.

De_man · 09-10-2008 8:20am

Swimmy wrote: »

There are standards around the installation of flexible flues etc and how they must be insulated or back-filled we mixtures of concrete and sand.

1. thats correct, personally i wouldn't use the flexi pipe for the installation

btw i did ask when purchasing our stoves (X 3) about lining the chimney, was told not required...

2. gsxr1 keep an eye on your fireplace i'm afraid your fireplace could be scorched by the heat

3. joints in the flue to be sealed up (fire cement or equiv) available
in tubes so you can use your "silicone gun"

4. no insulation required to protect chimney

to eurorunner,,, i reckon that job is fine, we made the mistake (saw a photo)
we plastered/skimmed where 2 stoves were going,,,,the paint blistered from the heat turned out a complete waste of time,,,took all the crap off and tiled up instead

btw that 300mm clearance, is that from the stove with door closed or door open i wonder? (i don't have my building regs manual anymore)

De_man · 09-10-2008 8:26am

gsxr1 wrote: »

copied and pasted from some site.

For this reason it is good practise to line and insulate a chimney whenever you fit a stove

i'm going to recheck this today with our supplier, i'll post back the information
i get back,
i accept the explaination given but we have no problem
with the draw in our chimney,
only issue i had...rushing to get one up and running i didn't use a reducer, but rockwool around the flue to steady it in the chimney,

i reckon when doing so i partially blocked the flue, huge amount of soot in the flue when i went to redo the job installing the reducer

De_man · 09-10-2008 10:11am

gsxr1; i've just checked with our stove supplier

if it was an oil burning stove, yes a liner is recommended

For solid fuel stove, it's not required, once the chimney is in good condition
otherwise a liner would be required.

the installation of the stove is very straightforward, hope you have many
years of "free heat" the timber off-cuts are the job, for the first few days
have the fire fairly small, infact open the window the first time you light it
ensure the room is well ventilated.

must try to figure out how to post pics here

gsxr1 · 09-10-2008 6:18pm

De_man wrote: »

gsxr1; i've just checked with our stove supplier

if it was an oil burning stove, yes a liner is recommended

For solid fuel stove, it's not required, once the chimney is in good condition
otherwise a liner would be required.

the installation of the stove is very straightforward, hope you have many
years of "free heat" the timber off-cuts are the job, for the first few days
have the fire fairly small, infact open the window the first time you light it
ensure the room is well ventilated.

must try to figure out how to post pics here

thanks for you and everyone else for your help. I know I can google advise ,but if rairly will give you real peoples experiences in Ireland.

filled the van with off cuts today.

for posting pics. Use this site www.lookpic.com upload your pic and copy and paste the BB code from the photo you just uploaded to your boards .ie reply. its simple enough.;)

no work lined up for tomorrow so I will buy the stove in the morning.

will keep yas posted

gabbo is coming · 09-10-2008 7:10pm

Hello

Couple of simple questions-

How much is an Oisin?(Roughly)

My room is about 15 ft x 30ft with the fire slap bang in the middle. Is an Oisin too powerful / not powerful enough?

What's does it mean by second burn? It burns the smoke or keeps it in the chamber for heating? Does the Oisin do this - Waterford Stanley site is brutal.

Can you burn briquettes and/or coal - or does it have to be wood?

I heard Olsberg are good - anyone know where they are sold?

I went to boards to ask these questions and more - only to find the first thread about stoves. Must be a cold recession wind coming!

gabbo is coming · 09-10-2008 7:29pm

BTW - my fireplace is identical to the chap who started this thread. By my measurements, it'll come out to within 100mm of the edge of the granite heart, in my case.

This is a lot less than the 300mm previously mentioned. Anyone know if 100mm from edge of granite to edge of oisin is enough?

gsxr1 · 09-10-2008 8:03pm

gabbo is coming wrote: »

BTW - my fireplace is identical to the chap who started this thread. By my measurements, it'll come out to within 100mm of the edge of the granite heart, in my case.

This is a lot less than the 300mm previously mentioned. Anyone know if 100mm from edge of granite to edge of oisin is enough?

It is not ideal , but i have seen them around the 100 mark and they worked fine. I think one should just use a little more caution whan opening the door. I intend to keep a big tile in the room to cover the floor when opening.
www.gings.ie has the one you are after at a reduced price of 400 euro. they have loads up there.

edit.... they have bumped the price up the feckers.

Swimmy · 09-10-2008 9:45pm

I might be wrong but my understanding is that it is 300mm in from of the stove to protect the floor with 300mm being a minimum for combustable materials! I don't think the installation would comply with the regs otherwise. a good rule of thumb is that the door of the stove when open should not overhang the edge of the hearth.

In relation to lining the flue, it is true that it is not a requirement, however as previous posters have mentioned for good stove performance and safety reasons it is better to line the flue. It is a simple job to do with the liners and accessories and even stoves being alot cheaper in the UK. Some companies do deliver to Ireland. Most of the irish suppliers I have gone to have recommended I line the flue and this is on a new house!

I got a quote for a stove last weekend and I checked the price in the UK and it was half what it is here!

Best of luck with the installation.

De_man · 09-10-2008 10:22pm

gabbo is coming wrote: »

Hello

Couple of simple questions-

How much is an Oisin?(Roughly)

My room is about 15 ft x 30ft with the fire slap bang in the middle. Is an Oisin too powerful / not powerful enough?

What's does it mean by second burn? It burns the smoke or keeps it in the chamber for heating? Does the Oisin do this - Waterford Stanley site is brutal.

Can you burn briquettes and/or coal - or does it have to be wood?

I heard Olsberg are good - anyone know where they are sold?

I went to boards to ask these questions and more - only to find the first thread about stoves. Must be a cold recession wind coming!

1. about 450 if i remember rightly

2. you could do with a bit more imho

3. dunno, i must ask senior management,, she's the stove expert

4. anything you want to burn, coal wood etc

5. sorry don't know anything about olsberg, we've the oisin purely
due to the size of the fireplace opening and room size.
and two nestor martins
www.nestormartin.be

northdublin · 09-10-2008 11:55pm

it was recomended to me to line my flue as i cant ensure that the flue has any gaps or cracks that might let gasses or deposits trough into my neighbours ajoining chimney or into my attic. the only way of knowing is to get a cctv survey. ive seen a few installs that simply dont work cause the flue is too wide and there isnt enough draw, meaning depending on the wind direction the room fills with smoke.
if the flue from the stove is just placed up the existing chimney you need to ensure the soot doesnt sit at this point either by sloping the joint with cement so it falls back into the stove flue and into the stove or have a soot door built into the brest to access the area to remove the soot.
this link shows roughly how i did mine http://www.log-onto-fires.com/diagram2.jpg

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 12:01am

northdublin wrote: »

it was recomended to me to line my flue as i cant ensure that the flue has any gaps or cracks that might let gasses or deposits trough into my neighbours ajoining chimney or into my attic. the only way of knowing is to get a cctv survey. ive seen a few installs that simply dont work cause the flue is too wide and there isnt enough draw, meaning depending on the wind direction the room fills with smoke.
if the flue from the stove is just placed up the existing chimney you need to ensure the soot doesnt sit at this point either by sloping the joint with cement so it falls back into the stove flue and into the stove or have a soot door built into the brest to access the area to remove the soot.
this link shows roughly how i did mine http://www.log-onto-fires.com/diagram2.jpg

how do you cement a flexi flu into a chimney.

cant see how the wet mortar will sit up there.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 12:10am

gsxr1 wrote: »

how do you cement a flexi flu into a chimney.

cant see how the wet mortar will sit up there.

you dont use a flexy flue, this method is with resect to using just a short flue from the stove up into the existing flue.
its a messy job where you have to access the flue trough a hole you have knocked out in the brest, you can get a plate with a clamp built onto it that clamps around the enamal flue, then trough the hole in the brest you slope the mortar form the existing flue onto the plate, this means any soot that forms will fall down the slope back into the stove.
however i did use fire cement to seal the joint from my enamal flue to the fexi liner and all other joints i did on the stove.

gabbo is coming · 10-10-2008 7:35am

Thanks De Man - are nestormartin good?

De_man · 10-10-2008 3:00pm

gabbo is coming wrote: »

Thanks De Man - are nestormartin good?

they're fine, but on the expensive side...imho all stoves are pretty much the same the difference is in the aesthetics, it'll be the real boss who'll make the decision as to what look they want to go for;)

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 5:59pm

GOT UP EARLY

went to gings to pick up the stove. payed 400 not 450 as stated on there website.

got her home and discovered, to get it back properly I would have to break some of the fireback out. had to take the hood part off for clearance.

used two 45degree 5" connections one with a soot door. and a 500mm length.
McCarthys sorted me for the fittings at a good price compared to others I priced. used fire type paste to seal the joints and drilled and screwed them also. tis a little messy. I will clean it when it cools

I stuffed rockwool right up to the neck of the 5" straight

I also sprayed the inside of the fire place with black high temp paint.

finished and lit. very happy..

flu fittings 130
stanley oisin stove 400

so 530 is spent but I hope to make that back in one years heating bills.

timber has made the window black as a boot already and it smells of VHT paint . The smell should be gone soon.

its very warm in here and its on very low.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 6:19pm

neat job, looks very well. looks like its far enough away from the timber so hopefully no heat damage will occur.
my only concern would be soot gathering around the top of the enamel flue and sitting on top of the rock wool.

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 6:28pm

northdublin wrote: »

neat job, looks very well. looks like its far enough away from the timber so hopefully no heat damage will occur.
my only concern would be soot gathering around the top of the enamel flue and sitting on top of the rock wool.

I also have concerns with this. I hope to pull it all out every spring for a clean. Hopefully this should prevent a chimney fire. I have pushed the rockwool up past the metal as to help the soot to fall the right way. The first clean out will reveal a result. I will be keeping an eye on things until then.

northdublin · 10-10-2008 6:33pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

I also have concerns with this. I hope to pull it all out every spring for a clean. Hopefully this should prevent a chimney fire. I have pushed the rockwool up past the metal as to help the soot to fall the right way. The first clean out will reveal a result. I will be keeping an eye on things until then.

every six months to a year should do for cleaning, depends on how much you use it.
houses years ago had soot doors built into the brest to access roughly where your talking about, to scoop out the soot, and in some more modern homes ive seen them on the outside where the brest goes up the house on the exterior. i tried to get one for my own chimney for asthetic reasons but couldnt source one.

De_man · 10-10-2008 7:27pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

timber has made the window black as a boot already and it smells of VHT paint . The smell should be gone soon.

Fine job, don't worry about the window, it'll clean itself when the flames
are "turned down" the fire will "clean" the window, keep the fire down very
low for a couple of days, the smell is from the paint curing.

you'll be in the good books for this one:D

gsxr1 · 10-10-2008 7:47pm

De_man wrote: »

Fine job, don't worry about the window, it'll clean itself when the flames
are "turned down" the fire will "clean" the window, keep the fire down very
low for a couple of days, the smell is from the paint curing.

you'll be in the good books for this one:D

aye i am. she even bought me 6 bottles of beer and made a edible dinner tonight

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 11:35am

Nice job.
How much did the fittings cost you and how far past the chimney opening does that flue pipe go?
How big is the room and how much heat are you getting out of it?
Whats that insert made out of? Is it not causing any problems? ie. its not burning hot or anything??
Was going to get reducer and replace cast iron insert with granite but if this is working out for you and others, maybe I'll save funds and do same...:)

One thing to check is clearance at the front. I know its your own house but if the worst was to happen, how would that go with insurance?

gsxr1 · 11-10-2008 2:28pm

Eurorunner wrote: »

Nice job.
How much did the fittings cost you and how far past the chimney opening does that flue pipe go?
How big is the room and how much heat are you getting out of it?
Whats that insert made out of? Is it not causing any problems? ie. its not burning hot or anything??
Was going to get reducer and replace cast iron insert with granite but if this is working out for you and others, maybe I'll save funds and do same...:)

One thing to check is clearance at the front. I know its your own house but if the worst was to happen, how would that go with insurance?

the fitting go up a few feet. I have a very good draw on out chimney. we are very exposed to the wind with a field next to us. The wind howls down the street which produces a fantastic suck from the chimney.

I have only had it going for 1 day . And this morn . Its unreal the heat that comes from it. Really. I cant believe it.

1 bucket of 4X2 timber off cuts used in 1 days running on low. I would have burned that of in an open fire a a few hours with far less heat output.

I have bought a bag of coal to try it and I am trying to source a felled tree to cut up and dry out to stock up for winter. May be a little late though.

This is the answer to high fuel prices.

I have a small 2 bed two story town house . about 850 square feet and the heat is almost to much. All doors open. living room is 5 X 4 meters .

as for the clearance at the front. . its not perfect. But used with care I cant see a problem. I am using a spare tile in front on the thing when refueling. Just in case hot coal falls out and damages the floor.

Im not sure about the insurance thing. Never even considered it to be honest. I just going to make sure the worst never happens. regular cleaning should keep safety issues in check.

the Harth is black granite and is hot under the stove but stays cool around the outside. The mantle is timber but is over the recommended distantance in hight . wont be a problem.

I do intend to maybe connect a flu all the way to the top when I can afford it. That would be the proper job . But the flexi soild fuel flexi is very very expensive . the flexi used for oil and gas boilers are not up to the job, so I was told ..

I was made redundant recently so have not got loads money for that yet. I have just spent the winter heating budget on the stove, but its money very well spent.

get one . Its a nice looking addition to the living room . Lovely warm glow.
and free heat with renewable energy...

it also hold its heat when put out. Was warm to the touch this morn.

Would a reducer solve the soot build up around the rock wool problem? If so I may as well redo that part.

what do you mean by insert burning hot?

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 3:30pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

the fitting go up a few feet.

Would be a bit concerned alright about soot getting lodged inside and the potential fire risk. Its unlikely you wold have managed to get rockwool right up to the end of it - and even if you have, soot will still buildup on top of it.

gsxr1 wrote: »

I have only had it going for 1 day . And this morn . Its unreal the heat that comes from it. Really. I cant believe it.

Good to hear. I'm hoping to turn off the central heating pump for downstairs (and just heat the rads upstairs) when stove is running.

gsxr1 wrote: »

I do intend to maybe connect a flu all the way to the top when I can afford it. That would be the proper job . But the flexi soild fuel flexi is very very expensive

Yes, this will increase the cost by 100%. I'm hoping that by fitting the reducer to the end of the chimney, there will be no need for liner.

gsxr1 wrote: »

Would a reducer solve the soot build up around the rock wool problem? If so I may as well redo that part.

My understanding is that it can be made to measure - and slotted in and sealed -so there shouldnt be a soot buildup.

gsxr1 wrote: »

what do you mean by insert burning hot?

The insert - the ornate piece between timber fireplace surround and the stove/fireplace. Isn't that made of metal?? I have something similar and was told I would have to replace with either granite or marble.

gsxr1 · 11-10-2008 6:39pm

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them. Clay flu linners are a standard size, as is 5" single wall flu pipe.

the soot build up will play on my mind till I get it fixed... early days yet though. brand new chimney.

I seen on on the B&Q website. Its a UK site and the irish stores dont sell them. But they should up North. should be a cheap one.

I have a metal insert and it is hot. but not burning hot. I can keep my hand on it .

thanks for your input;)

Eurorunner · 11-10-2008 7:59pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

I have a metal insert and it is hot. but not burning hot. I can keep my hand on it .

hmm...makes me wonder if i can get away without having to replace....???

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them. Clay flu linners are a standard size, as is 5" single wall flu pipe.

fluesystems.com can give you a quote on one if you provide them with a sketch. Waiting to get plasterboard up before i do sketch and see what they come back with.

De_man · 12-10-2008 1:33pm

gsxr1 wrote: »

do us a favour and tell me how you get on with the made to order reducer. Some one must sell them.

i know murphys in kinvara supply them

Kevin007 · 12-10-2008 2:18pm

The reason you will have to seal the flue is to prevent 'tramp air' from bypassing the appliance and taking hot air from the room up the flue with the flue gases Do NOT under any circumstance use the flexible flue liner I saw in a pic, on an appiance like this. Flexible flue liner is not for use on high temperature solid fuel units You must use a cast iron flue liner which is what I presume you were quoted for in Sallins. It is expensive but safe. My advise to you is to get a pro to fit this 4 u , otherwise spend the money you saved on Fire Extinguishers................. UR gonna need them

gabbo is coming · 12-10-2008 5:12pm

Went to a place in Ballymount Road on Saturday and the Oisin matt was 670! Thanks for the advice all - went out and drove straight to Portlaois - 400 in gings. The only thing was, originally had heart (no pun) set on enamel but it was 850 for the oisin in gings - couldn't justify the doubling of price so went with the matt.

My setup is the exact same as the original poster. Nice job! The only difference is my cast iron fireplace extends all the way around the hearth, with a semi-circular door on the top to open when the fire is lit to let out the smoke, and close during the summer / when not lighting.

So...I plan to get a 90' connection and run a pipe up through this semi-circular hole and then lash some rockwool around the pipe above the hole. THis sounds right?

(Father also bought a stove in Gings, the Tara for 1250 enamel. Very good value compared with Dublin. 60 to deliver to Dub. He has a range which had a hideous pyramid of brick built inside it. Got the sledge to it on Saturday, it'll look the business)

gsxr1 · 12-10-2008 6:42pm

Kevin007 wrote: »

The reason you will have to seal the flue is to prevent 'tramp air' from bypassing the appliance and taking hot air from the room up the flue with the flue gases Do NOT under any circumstance use the flexible flue liner I saw in a pic, on an appiance like this. Flexible flue liner is not for use on high temperature solid fuel units You must use a cast iron flue liner which is what I presume you were quoted for in Sallins. It is expensive but safe. My advise to you is to get a pro to fit this 4 u , otherwise spend the money you saved on Fire Extinguishers................. UR gonna need them

I dont intend to use flexi anymore . A reducer is the way forward.

A flexi can used on solid fuel stoves. It has to be the correct grade.

I have steel fitting that are not cast iron and recommended for the unit.

check the link.

www.fluesystems.com

Kevin007 · 13-10-2008 3:29am

Well done There is also some Stainless Steel Flue in the market is suitable Make sure you seai it with Fire Cement and you'll be OK. Best of Luck with it

soild fuel stove advise

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