Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back from 1 to 10+ pages to re-sync the thread and this will then show the latest posts. Thanks, Mike.
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Tubeless road - it actually works

1…34689…14

Comments

  • #252
    fat bloke
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,929 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    fat bloke wrote: »
    That's the thing though innit. After 12 months of elemental exposure, how easy will it be to loosen that nut in fading light up the Sally gap :(
    harringtonp wrote: »
    In that regard its no different to any other screw head or adjuster on the bike, you need to check every now and then that they still move. I don't do it myself but a quick check every time you pump up the tyre wouldn't go astray



    Well, apart from the fading light bit, it happened today. The final solution being a €70 taxi home :(

    When I did get home, it took a good 20 minutes, a selection of pliers and vice grips and ultimately destruction of the valve to the get the mother****in Constantineopling b@starding thing out :mad:

    Tempted now to go back to bloody tubes as normal altogether. Especially since I've had two mavic TL tyres in a row bubbling up on me in the space of 6 months riding on top of this.

    Me no happy.


  • #253
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Doesn't sound good alright and have to admit I don't check the ring myself but this is certainly a reminder.

    What caused the puncture in the first place and what stopped the sealing process ?

    I assume you were trying to take off the tire and put a tube in.


  • #254
    fat bloke
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,929 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Dunno what caused it but when I reinflated at the roadside it just "shished" air and sealant out the hole. - Intention was to stick a tube in.


  • #255
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    fat bloke wrote: »
    Dunno what caused it but when I reinflated at the roadside it just "shished" air and sealant out the hole. - Intention was to stick a tube in.

    Would a tire worm have worked ?


  • #256
    fat bloke
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,929 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Decision made. GP4000's mounted. Tubes inserted. Blisters bandaged.

    We'll see how we go. :)


  • #257
    fat bloke
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,929 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Would a tire worm have worked ?

    I don't know. - It's actually linked to the tyre bubbling problem that I had, and which I alluded to in another thread.

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=109177758

    I thought the first tyre was an anomaly but a second one did the exact same thing, but only on the rear, strangely. I think what was happening was that the bubbles were bursting, leaving a small hole, which was then sealed by the sealant. I noticed a patch of sealant on the tyre last night, pumped the tyre up and it held its pressure til this morning when I went out for a spin.

    Now, I don't know it it's the same place in the tyre that ultimately punctured. It didn't lose air gradually, and I had nearly 70k done - Firhouse, Blesso, Hollywood, Laragh. Then just beyond Anamoe, on the way to Roundwood I lost all pressure, and when I lashed in a C02 canister it just came straight out the same perforation.

    In typical Murphy's Law fashion, I'd say I was literally at the farthest point of the spin from home where it happened. Fcukin broke my heart to ring for a taxi while looking at a pocketful of tubes, the same ones I've been lugging around, stuffed into my jersey pockets, for the last 9 months!!!!:rolleyes:


  • #258
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Unfortunate but it sounds like the source of the problem wasn't the tubeless setup in particular but the fact that the tire had bubbles. This would be a problem in any setup. From the other thread it sounds like this could be a current issue with Mavic in the way GP4000S tires had weak sidewalls. Not everyone is affected but many were.

    Take for me is to stay clear of Mavic for now. There is an element of luck in tubeless. A lot seems to come down to the rim/tyre combination and if you happen to have chosen a good match, the experience is likely to be far better.


  • #259
    fat bloke
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,929 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Well, I figured the whole point of matching mavic wheels with mavic tyres would be the ideal setup. In many ways it works brilliantly. Tyres easy to mount and remove. OK the initial setup and adding of sealant etc is an extra faff, but once I got it done I rode up hill and down dale from November to yesterday and was delighted with the setup, except for this odd bubbling issue.

    But no one complains about tyres and wheels until you get hit with a road-side issue and that's when the system is tested - can I fix this and get home. The answer yesterday was no, despite having tubes and pumps and canisters. So that has to be a big black mark in the copybook for me. In 20 years cycling it's my first taxi home.

    On the plus side, the front is the same one since November and is still in remarkably good condition. It didn't suffer from any bubbling and all I ever had to do with it was top up the air pressure before every spin. That's about 5k km on the road in total and 2-3 roller sessions a week November to March/April.

    So yeah, like I said, when it was working it was great but leaving me stranded like that is going to take a while to forgive. I'm sure I'll come back to tubeless again but for the moment I'll retreat to my tubed household setup - I've drawers full of tubes and presses full of tyres so I may as well be using them! :)


  • #260
    H.E. Pennypacker
    Closed Accounts Posts: 844 ✭✭✭H.E. Pennypacker


    You should have been on the right track with the Mavic rims and tyres as they're supposed to be well matched in terms of mounting etc.

    Its a shame that you ended up stranded and I can fully understand why you're going back to tubes for a while.

    I'd make the following suggestions if you do ever decide to go back.

    1. bring tyre worms. Two can be used in combination for bigger holes. A tiny tube of superglue can be used to help if the worm is slightly too small for the hole.
    2. bring a pump and don't use CO2 unless the tyre has become unseated. The fast inflation to full pressure will increase the chances of the sealed hole opening up again. With a pump, you can inflate to a reasonable pressure and get going again. Even 20 to 30 psi will be fine for getting home unless you're on 23s. There are also reports of CO2 reacting with some sealants and making them ineffective (Stans in particular).

    I'm no expert (the above is taken from Malcolm Borg's blog). I've had no issues with tubeless so far and have switched all my bikes over. That said, I haven't had a full failure yet and as you say, that's the real test. I'm using IRC Formula Pro Fusions X Guards on my commuter and find that they roll really well and have been bulletproof up to this (famous last words...)


  • #261
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭manafana


    Question, i had misfortune to whack something and my wheels gone out of true, its now not taking air, assume this is because its not true and once its true again it will be air tight? Running mavic on mavic


  • Advertisement
  • #262
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Sounds very plausible alright, check rim for actual dents

    Looks to me like you have to tru the wheel anyway so wait and see. Worse case you're talking tubes


  • #263
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Shouldn’t the title of this thread be changed to

    Tubeless Road - It sometimes works.

    I have yet again been toying with the idea of changing my winter/wet bike to tubeless (the wheels are tubeless ready Fulcrum Racing 5 DB’s) and so I keep revisiting this thread but again end up thinking it’s considerably more hassle and expense than it’s worth.

    I have a spare set of wheels which I may set up as tubeless to try it out but I’m not convinced they’ll be any better than regular tyres and latex tubes which is what I use on my three road bikes with zero issues.


  • #264
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    They come into their own in races where you will hit the odd pothole and can't move out of the way of hedge trimmings. They are also a slightly faster setup.

    I wouldn't be inclined to bother specifically for training on your own in winter or relaxed group rides.


  • #265
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I'm probably going to order a new set of Hunt wheels today - they offer to fit Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres for 99£ extra - is it worth it? A lot of the hassle seems to be around fitting the tyres but if they come fitted. I'd probably have to buy new tyres in any case as I'll keep my old wheels as a winter set


  • #266
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    I'm probably going to order a new set of Hunt wheels today - they offer to fit Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres for 99£ extra - is it worth it? A lot of the hassle seems to be around fitting the tyres but if they come fitted. I'd probably have to buy new tyres in any case as I'll keep my old wheels as a winter set

    I'd say yes. You be hard pushed to get the Pro Ones for much less than 80 euro. They will also presumably supply valves, tubeless tape and sealant for the 99. I ran a Pro One fine with a tube while waiting for new tape to come.


  • #267
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    It seems to include everything. If I was going clincher I'd be spending 60-80 on a new set of tyres anyway so thought that might be worth a try to go tubeless if they will install them for me


  • #268
    MediaMan
    Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭MediaMan


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    It seems to include everything. If I was going clincher I'd be spending 60-80 on a new set of tyres anyway so thought that might be worth a try to go tubeless if they will install them for me


    If I charged myself time and materials for installing my Pro One's I reckon it would have cost me at least 1000 euro! :D


  • #269
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Just got my first tubeless wheels delivered with tyres already installed thankfully. I've been through this thread but had two quick questions -

    What sealant should I buy and how often (days/km) should I top this up? Bike is used once a week normally, rarely more than twice for 80/90km a time.

    What should I take with me on a ride? Usually I take two tubes, a pump and a multitool, would I get away with one tube but do I need some sort of tubeless repair kit? I see the stories of how wrong things can go if the puncture doesn't seal and you need to get a tyre off.

    Any other newbie tips most welcomed too!


  • #270
    youtheman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,289 ✭✭✭youtheman


    Some tips:

    1. the tubeless tyre is a much tighter fit, consequently it is much harder to get on off (in my experience anyway). I found the Schwalbe almost impossible to get on/off, but I now have the new Continental tubeless tyres and with a bit of practice I can now get them on an off (I now carry 5 tyre levers, 3 standard and two 'special').
    2. the sealant works by making its way to where there is a big pressure drop (i.e. hole). So it will also try make its way to the valve as you pump your tyre. So eventually it will harden under you valve stem o-ring and may make it hard to seal. So every now and then you should remove the valve core and clean off the hard sealant underneath.
    3. What do you carry.?. You have 2 options : Carry nothing except the cost of a taxi home (with a very low percentage risk you'll need it), or carry a spare tube and tyre levers, but only if you are confident you can get the tyre on/off on the roadside.
    4. Not sure how often to top up or replace the sealant. Maybe top it up every few months. But if you top up too much you'll end up with too much sealant, and you may find that your wheel is out of balance at high revs.
    5. Stans is good sealant. I also bough some sealant at Halfords, looks and smells exactly like Stans, and does the same job (nearly said it taste the same as well !).


  • Advertisement
  • #271
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thanks - would feel odd going out with no spare tube, but at the same time I don't want to practice taking on and off the tyre at home given it is on the wheel now and that seems to be one of the main difficulties people have. But then I know I'd never get it fixed on the side of a road either.


  • #272
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭manafana


    the mavic on mavi setup was easier to get on, i found it tricky but with tubeless tyre levers id get it done, father in law did it in no time using his palms.

    sealant wise it recommends 4-6months so given you miles you base it on that, i found tyres if they had a seal started to go from their so didn't get quiet the milage id like althou i blame wicklow coco


  • #273
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    On point 1 from youtheman above I have always found the schwalbe pro ones come off and go on easily so it all depends on your rim/tyre combo. Hopefully it will be when replacing a tyre at home that you find out how yours is.

    I have a photo elsewhere in this thread of a tiny pouch I carry. I generally also bring a tube and now some tyre boots. I bring the boots because the one time the system failed the sidewall tear was too big to fit a tube.


  • #274
    who_ru
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,033 ✭✭✭who_ru


    Beginning to lose patience with tubeless to some extent. I’m on my third rear tyre In a little under 18 months, in the 4 years I rode clinchers I changed one tyre.

    The two rear tyres both cut and the sealant couldn’t fill the hole, I’m not convinced by the advantages of tubeless, if there are any.

    I had rim tape bought only to discover it’s too wide for the rims so now I have to go and order new tape. Luckily I have a set of clinchers in reserve, vitorria rubino graphene 2.0.

    Not sure if I’ll persevere with tubeless for much longer to be honest. Ah well.


  • #275
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭manafana


    who_ru wrote: »
    Beginning to lose patience with tubeless to some extent. I’m on my third rear tyre In a little under 18 months, in the 4 years I rode clinchers I changed one tyre.

    The two rear tyres both cut and the sealant couldn’t fill the hole, I’m not convinced by the advantages of tubeless, if there are any.

    I had rim tape bought only to discover it’s too wide for the rims so now I have to go and order new tape. Luckily I have a set of clinchers in reserve, vitorria rubino graphene 2.0.

    Not sure if I’ll persevere with tubeless for much longer to be honest. Ah well.

    time is selective measure, km use is much better measure, mine last much less time but then the tyres are designed to roll much better so much lighter their are lots of diff tubeless tyres you can get, some last alot longer, yes holes are issue just like are on normal tyre with tube inside.

    For me anything like endurance or racing tubeless is no brainer. For something more leisurely maybe not, tubeless for commutting seems no brainer in most cases as it will seal and get to destination where u can pump, no pinch flats or glass flats.


  • #276
    youtheman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,289 ✭✭✭youtheman


    who_ru wrote: »
    Beginning to lose patience with tubeless to some extent. I’m on my third rear tyre In a little under 18 months, in the 4 years I rode clinchers I changed one tyre.

    The two rear tyres both cut and the sealant couldn’t fill the hole, I’m not convinced by the advantages of tubeless, if there are any.

    I had rim tape bought only to discover it’s too wide for the rims so now I have to go and order new tape. Luckily I have a set of clinchers in reserve, vitorria rubino graphene 2.0.

    Not sure if I’ll persevere with tubeless for much longer to be honest. Ah well.

    What type of tyre are you using?. I initially used Schwalbe and they didn't last pi55ing time. I now use the Continental 5000, and they seem to be far more durable.


  • Advertisement
  • #277
    who_ru
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,033 ✭✭✭who_ru


    youtheman wrote: »
    What type of tyre are you using?. I initially used Schwalbe and they didn't last pi55ing time. I now use the Continental 5000, and they seem to be far more durable.

    I'm using the stock tubeless tyre that giant supply. I know the tyres and wheels that come with modern road bikes are not the best that you can get, seems most folks upgrade them. Seriously considering mavic carbon wheels and tires next year.


  • #278
    brownian
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭brownian


    I never had any great issue getting tubeless tyres off, in order to fit a tube. It really is a matter of how your rims and tyres (in my case, Schwalbe pro-ones on AL-33 rims) get on with one another. However, buying good quality levers is also important.

    I'd certainly recommend doing this at home, before you discover at the side of the road that your plasticene tyre levers don't work.

    For fitting myself, I found that harringtonp's recommendation of a track pump with a high-pressure reservoir (the AirBlast) was a winner. It's also a really good pump and a pleasure to use...odd thing to say, but it really is much better than my old track pump.

    All that said, the extreme non-durability of Pro-Ones wrecks my head, and I'm currently back using up my old stocks of GP-4000s. I might go to 5000 TLs afterwards, hopefully they'll have gotten a bit cheaper 8-).


  • #279
    Canis Lupus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,893 ✭✭✭Canis Lupus


    Do people tend to just add new sealant every 6 months? Or is it better to take off the tyres, clean the old stuff and then add new?


  • #280
    who_ru
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,033 ✭✭✭who_ru


    Canis Lupus wrote: »
    Do people tend to just add new sealant every 6 months? Or is it better to take off the tyres, clean the old stuff and then add new?

    Just top up the old stuff, no need to take off tires at all. Deflate and add, inflate.

    I battled for hours today trying to get a new tire on, cleaned down the rim, put new tape on (proper rim tape as opposed to gorilla tape), tried to get the tires to mount but no joy, I’m also using an airblast pump. Ultimately I think an air compressor is the answer but having run out of energy and time today I will return to the thankless task of getting the tire on next week.

    Oh and make sure you have direction of rotation right first time..

    I saw a video that says inflating with a tube in first will seal the bead to the rim, then deflate, break bead on one side, remove tube, and then try and get the other bead to seat. Might be worth a try next time.


  • #281
    brownian
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,741 ✭✭✭brownian


    That tube first thing does help.

    A 5-euro adaptor and a petrol station compressor is painless.


  • Advertisement
  • #282
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭manafana


    brownian wrote: »
    I never had any great issue getting tubeless tyres off, in order to fit a tube. It really is a matter of how your rims and tyres (in my case, Schwalbe pro-ones on AL-33 rims) get on with one another. However, buying good quality levers is also important.

    I'd certainly recommend doing this at home, before you discover at the side of the road that your plasticene tyre levers don't work.

    For fitting myself, I found that harringtonp's recommendation of a track pump with a high-pressure reservoir (the AirBlast) was a winner. It's also a really good pump and a pleasure to use...odd thing to say, but it really is much better than my old track pump.

    All that said, the extreme non-durability of Pro-Ones wrecks my head, and I'm currently back using up my old stocks of GP-4000s. I might go to 5000 TLs afterwards, hopefully they'll have gotten a bit cheaper 8-).

    Im using mavic ust so it works well with own tyres but iv bought hutchinshon now as they make mavic,

    On Pro Ones, they have now released a new verison


  • #283
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Got my first (that I noticed) puncture today, 500km in (Schwalbe Pro One). Thankfully it was at the end of a long group ride, had a beer at the end and still had 3km to get home and spotted some glass too late.

    Noticed a hissing from the tyre straight away, added a bit of air with the hand pump but that didn't hold for the 3km home. Was able to limp home ok but tyre completely flat again. Will need to try my first repair now, this tyre was deflating by itself if I left it for a week more so not sure if it was already low on sealant or if adding one of those little rubber worms will do the job. Hole doesn't look to be, would have expected it to seal by itself tbh


  • #284
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    If there was enough sealant you could expect to see the white coloring around the hole


  • #285
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    harringtonp wrote: »
    If there was enough sealant you could expect to see the white coloring around the hole

    Adding more sealant seems to have done the trick (even though it didn't completely seal on the first go, but another long spin of the wheel seems to have sorted it).

    A bit odd as wheels were bought two months ago with tyres installed from the manufacturer. Does anyone go out with a little bottle of sealant in a saddle bag?


  • #286
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    Adding more sealant seems to have done the trick (even though it didn't completely seal on the first go, but another long spin of the wheel seems to have sorted it).

    A bit odd as wheels were bought two months ago with tyres installed from the manufacturer. Does anyone go out with a little bottle of sealant in a saddle bag?

    No but its something I would do if I could find a bottle the right size. You would have expected the manufacturer to put in enough sealant but at least from now on it, it is in your hands. The last couple of years I have topped up in late Feb and work off that until the end of racing early September. Unless I've had to change tyre of course.


  • #287
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Replaced the valve this morning after breaking the head of the old one when pumping... I always check pressure before use and knew for some time it would break as it was bent.

    Bought the new ones cheaply on planet x (recommended by my wheel builder) and first impression is that they seem a better valve. My tire changing problems in the past have generally been down to leakage around the valve but with the new valve I go it inflated first go with the lifeline air blaster. I didn't have to take the tire fully off to replace the valve though...


  • #288
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,269 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    Got my first (that I noticed) puncture today, 500km in (Schwalbe Pro One). Thankfully it was at the end of a long group ride, had a beer at the end and still had 3km to get home and spotted some glass too late.

    Noticed a hissing from the tyre straight away, added a bit of air with the hand pump but that didn't hold for the 3km home. Was able to limp home ok but tyre completely flat again. Will need to try my first repair now, this tyre was deflating by itself if I left it for a week more so not sure if it was already low on sealant or if adding one of those little rubber worms will do the job. Hole doesn't look to be, would have expected it to seal by itself tbh

    I was about to take out the good bike today for the first time since this puncture 3 weeks ago.

    I had topped it up with sealant when I got the puncture and that sealed it, but when as I was pumping up the tyres to head out the air pressure seemed to be blowing out the sealant and the whole was opening up again. Happened every time I got up to 80psi.

    What can I do in this case? The whole seems far too small for a plug but not sure if I need one, or to patch it from the inside?


  • #289
    andy69
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 661 ✭✭✭andy69


    Just put on my tubeless wheels and tyres this afternoon - they came with the new bike back in April but had been using my deep section wheels all 'summer' and just swapped over today.
    Took out the tubes that were inside the tubeless wheels and put in the TL valves that came with them.

    OMG, that was soooooooo easy! I couldn't believe it!
    Pumping them up was just the same as if there was a tube in it, and I was using my same track pump I always use - literally sealed straight away!

    They've been inflated for a few hours now, and seem to be holding good - I actually have no sealant here at home so I will have to let them down to put that in, but even without sealant inside there doesn't seem to be any loss (so far).

    The easy sealing process I *think* was due to the rim tape - seems to be some sort of shiney 'selotape-looking' sort of material and I guess the beads just slid into place then.

    Wheels are Mavic Ksyrium UST
    Tyres are Hutchinson Fusion

    Anyway....first impressions are really great, will road test them soon as the doctors give me the ok to ride the bike again in a few weeks all being well.


  • #290
    Corker1
    Registered Users Posts: 197 ✭✭Corker1


    Had a bit of an odd commute the other evening. Just over half my spin home done and coming south on Lisheens road after leaving the N81, I was flagged down by two lads pushing MTBs looking for a pump. Said they had been walking for miles. I Sized them up and sure enough one of them had a puncture in his rear tyre.

    They were not your typical cyclists and hadn't as much as a tyre lever between them. Anyway I decided to help them. I took off his tyre, found glass in tyre. My spare 23-25mm road tube wasn't going to fit so we located the puncture and I stuck a patch on it. Put the wheel back on and inflated it with my CO2 canister. It inflated enough to get them home to Tallaght I guess. They thanked me and we went our separate ways.

    About 3km and five minutes later there was an almighty whoosh from my back wheel. My tubeless Continental GP 5000 TL had split on the sidewall. 7-8mm verticle gash. Hadn't hit a stone recently or anything - it just failed. Anyway, long story short. I had to make the call of shame as I had given away my only CO2 canister. I usually carry a minipump but I had left that in work. I carry a boot patch so could have popped that in with a tube to get me home otherwise. My First puncture in 2 years and I had given away my only means of self rescue 5 mins earlier. So much for Karma haha.

    The tyre had about 3.5K km on it so it's not like it was straight out of the box but I wonder are the Conti Tubeless tyres vulnerable to sidewall failure in the same way the regular GP 5000s have a reputation for? I'm Going back to my Schwalbe tubeless now.


  • #291
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Corker1 wrote: »

    The tyre had about 3.5K km on it so it's not like it was straight out of the box but I wonder are the Conti Tubeless tyres vulnerable to sidewall failure in the same way the regular GP 5000s have a reputation for? I'm Going back to my Schwalbe tubeless now.

    I've only ever used Schwalbe Pro One tubeless but did have a sidewall tear in one too and it had far less km than yours. Nothing in particular caused it that I could identify. Just one of these things


  • Advertisement
  • #292
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Thats probably the easiest installation I have heard off
    andy69 wrote: »
    Just put on my tubeless wheels and tyres this afternoon - they came with the new bike back in April but had been using my deep section wheels all 'summer' and just swapped over today.
    Took out the tubes that were inside the tubeless wheels and put in the TL valves that came with them.

    OMG, that was soooooooo easy! I couldn't believe it!
    Pumping them up was just the same as if there was a tube in it, and I was using my same track pump I always use - literally sealed straight away!


    Wheels are Mavic Ksyrium UST
    Tyres are Hutchinson Fusion


  • #293
    manafana
    Registered Users Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭manafana


    the mavics with the mavic tyres (made by hutch) took a bit of getting on, but the father in law who has great hands got them on pretty quick so he thought it was handy


  • #294
    andy69
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 661 ✭✭✭andy69


    andy69 wrote: »
    ...
    Wheels are Mavic Ksyrium UST
    Tyres are Hutchinson Fusion
    ...
    will road test them soon as the doctors give me the ok to ride the bike again in a few weeks all being well.

    Finally allowed back out to play today, so I put in my Stan's sealant last night and pumped up the tyres I fitted a few weeks ago (after doing the 'bounce the wheel' and 'roll along the floor while still deflated' and the 'shake the wheels' tips I picked up on some YouTube Vids...probably overkill but anyways)

    So headed out for an hour this morning on our local bumpy/rough-surfaced/potholed L-Roads round here, and everything worked fine - they seem to have held their pressure.

    So far I'm a fan!! :cool:
    (especially after learning that the sealant just basically evaporates over time, and you can just top it up: I thought I'd have to remove the tyres after a few months and scrape out the old crap first, and then have all that hassle of trying to reseal the beads which I understand can be tricky, unlike when they're new)


  • #295
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    basic question - these were mentioned in the bargain thread, and are the TLR version (which appears to stand for 'tubeless ready') - would they be OK to use with tubes?

    https://www.bikeman.ie/product/hutchinson-fusion-5

    edit: i note on their own website, they list TL as the tubeless model, and TT as the tubey model. hmm.

    https://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/road/tire/fusion-5-all-season-bike-standard


  • #296
    Canis Lupus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,893 ✭✭✭Canis Lupus


    My experience of putting on a tubeless tire (one giant brand and other schwalbe pro one) with a floor pump has involved copious swearing and much spewing of sealant all over the place.

    Had to get a valve converter and use my compressor to get it to pop.


  • #297
    andy69
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 661 ✭✭✭andy69


    Canis Lupus wrote: »
    My experience of putting on a tubeless tire (one giant brand and other schwalbe pro one) with a floor pump has involved copious swearing and much spewing of sealant all over the place.

    Had to get a valve converter and use my compressor to get it to pop.

    I think it was a 'paid promotion' sort of Vid from GCN where they were with Mavic and I seem to recall them saying something like the wheel/tyre combo when they come from the one manufacturer makes it easier.
    By chance my bike came with Mavics and Hutchinsons and I couldn't believe how easy it was to seat them. I still think that sort of transparent-looking rim tape they came with was key because it has a very smooth and slippy surface to it and I reckon then the beads slid out to the rims and sealed up straight away.


  • #298
    andy69
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 661 ✭✭✭andy69


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    basic question - these were mentioned in the bargain thread, and are the TLR version (which appears to stand for 'tubeless ready') - would they be OK to use with tubes?

    https://www.bikeman.ie/product/hutchinson-fusion-5

    edit: i note on their own website, they list TL as the tubeless model, and TT as the tubey model. hmm.

    https://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/road/tire/fusion-5-all-season-bike-standard

    Well, my tyres are Fusion5's too, but they are the 'performance' ones, so more of a slick look to them than the many threads in the All Seasons you were looking at. Other than that, mine seem to be the same, as they also say 'Tubeless Ready'.
    Anyway, when I got the bike, I was there in the shop the day it arrived from Look, and the sales guy unboxed it with me....the Look factory had supplied the wheels built up and fitted with tubes in the tyres. So i took it that I could run them with tubes if i wanted to...no way Look would let a punter off out on their new bike if it was a danger to be using tubes in the tyres I'd say.
    BUT...if your rims are tube-type, then the bead area would be different to the bead expected by the TLR tyres, so the mis-match might be an issue there possibly.


  • #299
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,167 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    cheers - i emailed them, and they responded to me this evening to confirm they're the TT version (i.e. tube version).


  • #300
    exaisle
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,675 ✭✭✭exaisle


    Corker1 wrote: »
    Had a bit of an odd commute the other evening. Just over half my spin home done and coming south on Lisheens road <SNIP>

    Lisheen Road....it's singular....very singular. Regardless of whatever Google Maps say.


  • Advertisement
  • #301
    Corker1
    Registered Users Posts: 197 ✭✭Corker1


    exaisle wrote: »
    Lisheen Road....it's singular....very singular. Regardless of whatever Google Maps say.




    Silly me. You have singularly set me straight on that one. Though now that you are here have you any contribution to make in relation to tubeless road tyres? Any thoughts on rim / tyre compatability? Any tips on easier mounting of tyres? Or maybe you have a favourite sealant fluid that you would like to recommend? It would be a pity if your singular contribution to this thread was in relation to Lisheens being singular.


Advertisement