Originally Posted by mp2012
Hi MediaMan, I got a set of Pro Ones and have DT Swiss wheels and as you did the front went on straight away no issues but I still can't get the rear to stay without a tube. When you deflated your tyres do they unseat themselves? Everytime I deflate to put in sealant they unseat and then I can't use the track pump to re-inflate but have to use CO2. I am getting a Schwalbe Tire Booster put just looking to see if you have any pointers with similar set up.
Apologies, have been infrequent on boards in the last couple of months and missed this. Hope you got sorted out in the meantime, but in case you are still having issues...
Bottom line is that there seems to be a design flaw or tolerance issue with the DT Swiss rear wheels, but you can still make it work.
For me, originally the rear tyre would unseat if I let the air out, or even dropped it below 20 psi. Once I put extra rim/gorilla tape on, that was less inclined to happen. Then I left my tyres inflated (and unused) through the winter, pumping them up every now and again. When I went to clean the the wheels and tyres out and replace the sealant in April it took a bit of effort to get the tyres, including the rear, to unseat as they had become fairly well fixed on.
When I went to reinstall the tyre I used an airshot (same as tire booster) and that worked fine. You can't carry that on the bike though! Also, remember you absolutely have to use soapy water or the Schwalbe equivalent liquid on the bead for the tyre to seat!
I would suggest that if you can get the rear to stay seated with no air in, then, in contrast to what I did above, you should leave it that way indefinitely, even when replacing the sealant. Use a syringe to remove the old sealant and add the new stuff after removing the valve core. It's less messy too.
If the tyre is still inclined to unseat when the air is let out, I'd suggest that's not a good situation, as if you get a puncture that doesn't seal then the tyre will unseat and you will need CO2 to re-seat it on the road like you described. And according to legend (and sealant small print), CO2 causes sealant to separate so you'll have to do it all again with a booster and new sealant when you get home.
If you are still in that situation, I'd be inclined to either add extra rim tape and see if that helps or go back to tube-based on the rear.