the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

mirrormatrix · 23-06-2020 8:41am

brownian wrote: »

Hope that's fairly clear?

I don't see anything wrong with it, but difficult to tell from the photo.

Type 17 · 23-06-2020 9:30am

Bill74 wrote: »

I can't see a road XD cassette anywhere. Info is very vague on this subject. Looks like I need a locktube which wasn't with the cassette. But no idea where to get that.

True, SRAM's info does seem vague (no worse than Shimano's though).

Browsing their site and looking at cassettes and sorting by technologies, there are only two XDR cassettes shown (pricey, too)

https://www.sram.com/en/sram/road/products/cassettes?filters=tech|XDR&sort=Relevancy&page=1

Type 17 · 23-06-2020 9:37am

brownian wrote: »

Hope that's fairly clear?

It's Hollowtech (or similar), rather than square taper, so the collar should be butted up against the frame, but it's hard to see if it is in that pic.

When the cranks are installed, is there any lateral sliding of the spindle/axle?

brownian · 23-06-2020 12:20pm

Sorry for the photo - I'll to get a better one after work.

The BB and crank FEEL stable - there is no lateral movement at all. But the collar is not butted up right against the frame - it's 2-3mm proud of the frame.

The BB is Wheels Mfg's GXP-to-BBRight product; it claims to be created exactly for this (attaching SRAM Red crankset to a Cervelo R3): https://wheelsmfg.com/bbrighttm-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24-22mm-sram-cranks-black.html

The installation instructions (https://wheelsmfg.com/tech/PDF/BBRIGHT-OUT-INSTRUCTIONS-WEB.pdf) say to make sure the NDS cup should be flush with the frame...

Plastik · 23-06-2020 12:36pm

The pic you posted is the DS cup though right? It looks perfectly fine in the picture anyway. I can't see any gap between the inner face of the cup and the BB shell. The bearing on that side sits outboard of the frame.

CramCycle · 23-06-2020 1:26pm

That's what is throwing me, the cup that normally sits outside the frame seems to be going into it. Maybe its a frame design thing but it doesn't look right, can you take a pic of the other side.

brownian · 23-06-2020 1:40pm

Need to take the crank off to get a proper picture - not before tonight, with apologies. But Plastik is right - the photo is the Drive Side. The NDS 'thin lip' is flush to the frame; the DS 'fat lip' with its outboard bearing is shown in the photo...there's a couple of mm between the inside edge of that 'fat lip' and the actual carbon of the frame.

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! · 23-06-2020 3:45pm

What's the purpose of those straps you see on some bike pedals?

They look like a suicidal idea, if you need to take evasive action your feet are wedged in.

cletus · 23-06-2020 3:50pm

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

What's the purpose of those straps you see on some bike pedals?

They look like a suicidal idea, if you need to take evasive action your feet are wedged in.

They were the precursor to the the 'clipless' pedals we have now, the toe clip and strap no longer being present on the newer spd and SPD-SL pedals

Type 17 · 23-06-2020 4:17pm

Hairy Japanese BASTARDS! wrote: »

What's the purpose of those straps you see on some bike pedals?

They look like a suicidal idea, if you need to take evasive action your feet are wedged in.

They're not wedged in (unless you've yanked the straps up super-tight for a sprint in a race) - once you're used to them, you've learned to flick your foot out the back of them, like you learn to twist your heel outwards to release from clip-in pedal.

Toe-clips and clip-in pedals give you more security for hard/fast riding and for standing up whilst pedalling for a climb or sprint, and also give you a bit more power as you can pull back/up a bit, as opposed to just being able to push down the pedals.

crosstownk · 23-06-2020 9:21pm

While cleaning one of the bikes today, I noticed that there is a small bit of play in the freehub i.e. if I hold the cassette, I can rock it up and down by a small amount - less than 1mm. It's NOT the cups/cones that are loose.

I can't say I've noticed this before but I haven't really checked for it before - I just accidentally noticed it today. Can I just leave it or do I need to nip up the FH a small bit?

Fulcrum Racing 3 with Shimano FH - approx 8,000km.

grogi · 24-06-2020 2:56pm

brownian wrote: »

Sorry for the photo - I'll to get a better one after work.

The BB and crank FEEL stable - there is no lateral movement at all. But the collar is not butted up right against the frame - it's 2-3mm proud of the frame.

The BB is Wheels Mfg's GXP-to-BBRight product; it claims to be created exactly for this (attaching SRAM Red crankset to a Cervelo R3): https://wheelsmfg.com/bbrighttm-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24-22mm-sram-cranks-black.html

The installation instructions (https://wheelsmfg.com/tech/PDF/BBRIGHT-OUT-INSTRUCTIONS-WEB.pdf) say to make sure the NDS cup should be flush with the frame...

BBright is not a threaded bottom braket, it is pressed in. Wheelsmfg make them with additional threading of two halfes inside of the tubes, to elliminate squiqs and any additional sound effects.

Anyway, it shouldn't be like that. I guess what happened is the fantastic tolerances of Cervello frames prevented the workshop to rotate the halves further and bring them closer (that's why Hambini makes them in one piece).

If there is no play, I wouldn't worry about it too much tough. You might just have a bit wider stance or slightly off chainline if it is on drive side.

brownian · 24-06-2020 3:39pm

grogi wrote: »

BBright is not a threaded bottom braket, it is pressed in. Wheelsmfg make them with additional threading of two halfes inside of the tubes, to elliminate squiqs and any additional sound effects.

Anyway, it shouldn't be like that. I guess what happened is the fantastic tolerances of Cervello frames prevented the workshop to rotate the halves further and bring them closer (that's why Hambini makes them in one piece).

If there is no play, I wouldn't worry about it too much tough. You might just have a bit wider stance or slightly off chainline if it is on drive side.

As it turns out, when I took the crank off again for new photos, I tried just tightening it up by hand. To my astonishment, I was able to turn the DS cup easily, and to screw it right flush to the frame. Why I didn't think of this before asking here, I don't know! The workshop responsible for fitting the BB should perhaps have added a little loctite to stop it coming loose, or else could have tightened it more. I don't have BB wrenches, but when next I'm in a bike shop, I'll get them to do this...and I'll keep a close eye in the interim.

22_screenshot2020-06-2415.35.51.jpg

Type 17 · 24-06-2020 3:45pm

Don't leave it too long, as looseness causes wear on the interface surfaces, and you don't want to damage the frame.

crosstownk · 24-06-2020 10:46pm

crosstownk wrote: »

While cleaning one of the bikes today, I noticed that there is a small bit of play in the freehub i.e. if I hold the cassette, I can rock it up and down by a small amount - less than 1mm.

Out on a spin on this bike today and the shift on the larger sprockets of the cassette weren't as crisp as I'd expect. At one point I looked down and the cassette was visibly 'wobbling'. I changed up and pedalled backward and that stopped the wobble.

I'll have to remove the cassette and check further. Pain in the ass.

Any pointers...?

cletus · 24-06-2020 10:56pm

crosstownk wrote: »

Out on a spin on this bike today and the shift on the larger sprockets of the cassette weren't as crisp as I'd expect. At one point I looked down and the cassette was visibly 'wobbling'. I changed up and pedalled backward and that stopped the wobble.

I'll have to remove the cassette and check further. Pain in the ass.

Any pointers...?

Have you checked of the lockring is loose?

crosstownk · 24-06-2020 11:05pm

cletus wrote: »

Have you checked of the lockring is loose?

It's tight. The cassette feels like it's solid as unit - no play or movement between sprockets that I'd expect from a loose lock ring. I'm thinking that it's the free hub that needs adjusting/tightening.

Maybe I should remove the cassette and grab the free hub body and check for play to be sure.

A job for tomorrow as I'm on Guinness number three now. Not a good idea to be messing with the bike right now!

Tony04 · 24-06-2020 11:07pm

Is there lateral wheel play? Is your derailleur hanger bent?

crosstownk · 24-06-2020 11:17pm

Tony04 wrote: »

Is there lateral wheel play? Is your derailleur hanger bent?

No and no.

EDIT: My other bike has similar movement at the cassette. Maybe it’s normal.

Tony04 · 24-06-2020 11:28pm

That should limit whatever is loose to the freehub /cassette correct me if I'm wrong
So is your freehub loose? Unlikely...
Are you sure you installed the right spacers with the cassett?

Tony04 · 24-06-2020 11:31pm

crosstownk wrote: »

No and no.

EDIT: My other bike has similar movement at the cassette. Maybe it’s normal.

Acctually quick google and its seems to be normal on other bike forums.

cletus · 24-06-2020 11:35pm

So it looks like an indexing issue possibly? Could it be caused by wear on the cable?

crosstownk · 24-06-2020 11:45pm

cletus wrote: »

So it looks like an indexing issue possibly? Could it be caused by wear on the cable?

I think you’re right. The cable had slipped at the cinch bolt at the RD and I adjusted and reindexed yesterday.

I’d say I need to fine tune it.

Thanks for the assistance and the Googling that I should have done myself!!

crosstownk · 24-06-2020 11:56pm

Tony04 wrote: »

Acctually quick google and its seems to be normal on other bike forums.

Thanks. Every day is a school day. I can’t believe I never spotted that before.

magicbastarder · 25-06-2020 8:30am

Tony04 wrote: »

Acctually quick google and its seems to be normal on other bike forums.

i was a little surprised to see a little bit of play when i first installed a cassette, and have noticed it a couple of times since; i thought there'd be no movement at all. just a tiny bit of play.

woody33 · 25-06-2020 1:26pm

seamus wrote: »

Doesn't necessarily need to be anything about going up and down bumps tbh. If you've been doing a lot of urban riding in high gears that can be enough to weaken the spokes on the drive side.

If you enjoy tinkering and fixing, then half-arsed fixes on a cheaper bike is definitely the way to go about it
You can't make it much worse anyway.

Cool, half-arsed fixes are my speciality. Sometimes I even go as far as three-quarter-arsed.

.red. · 26-06-2020 7:27pm

I've a small garden shed and will probably have the bike raised on a bracket for the winter when not in use. I'll have to remove the wheels as it won't fit otherwise.
I was wondering if I should get a dummy hub to fit when the wheels are off it?
If I should, is it worth spending the €20+ on the park tools one or will a €5 eBay one do?
Thanks.

magicbastarder · 26-06-2020 8:45pm

if the bike is not in danger of being knocked into, you can hang it from the saddle - i.e. put the nose over a bar or beam.

devonp · 27-06-2020 1:25pm

hi

in the process of replacing headset bearings ,Endurace 2013/14 model
its at Acros ai70 type

got bearings from https://www.airevelobearings.com/product-category/canyon-headset-bearings-spares/

its the original headset; have disconnected brake cable , removed all upper parts; push-in top cap (not a real top cap:o) stem /handle bars, spacers, the small T6 torx screw, the two plastic bits that fit together, compression ring

but the fork wont drop!! i can imagine theres 6 yrs of gunk holding it there

tried tapping the steerer tube gently with rubber mallet ... no luck

do i need to remove the top bearing for the fork to drop ??

or might the btm bearing be so fcuked its jammed ??

cheers

cletus · 27-06-2020 1:30pm

devonp wrote: »

hi

in the process of replacing headset bearings ,Endurace 2013/14 model
its at Acros ai70 type

got bearings from https://www.airevelobearings.com/product-category/canyon-headset-bearings-spares/

its the original headset; have disconnected brake cable , removed all upper parts; push-in top cap (not a real top cap:o) stem /handle bars, spacers, the small T6 torx screw, the two plastic bits that fit together, compression ring

but the fork wont drop!! i can imagine theres 6 yrs of gunk holding it there

tried tapping the steerer tube gently with rubber mallet ... no luck

do i need to remove the top bearing for the fork to drop ??

or might the btm bearing be so fcuked its jammed ??

cheers

You might need to be less gentle...

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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