Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

Gent @Steve X2, looks to be just the job 👍

I do exactly the same thing, just swap the DC power barrel between the DC and Saturn when needed.

My Saturn started to act weird... pressing buttons that weren't being pressed... noise on the screen etc. All went away when I swapped out the PSU.

I suspect the caps on my original PSU are dying.

Any folk remedies for getting scratches out of 3DS XL top-screen or is it a definite replacement job?

Prob better to replace the plastic screen cover

Been 12 days since I've sent my Blast City's CRT Chassis over to Grant in the UK and... nothing. No update on the tracking since it was handed over from An Post to Parcelforce. :-/

I really hope that they haven't lost the damned thing considering that I put it as €1 value so that he wouldn't get stung for customs.

Would be just my luck too...

Parcelforce seem to have an issue at the moment with their tracking info/site. I have stuff that was sent over recently that was delivered(confirmed by receiver) and had delivery details on the site that now all show as "In Progress" or just "...".

Have you confirmed with Grant that he didn't get it?

Ohh brilliant! He just got back to me and said that it actually did turn up last week and that it's on his list of stuff to repair this week.

Crisis (and anxiety) averted.

Stupid Parcelforce...

Not sure why I didn't think to just do that in the first place but thanks for the suggestion Steve!

I've been looking for a Mega Drive single rom cart for a while to use with hacks and translations and tried a few different versions of what people have. In the end I decided to make my own based on some older schematics available online so I could use any size EPROM I needed. I cleaned up the design quite a bit in Eagle and decided to go with a different PCB colour scheme than what most seem to use for these sorts of things. I really like having the option to use SMD or through-hole caps(and some small flexibility on where to position those caps is a bonus).

After 2 small batches from PCBWay to make sure all works and looks ok, I'm happy with the result. I have a few that support saves / battery sourced from etsy, but for 99.9% of what I want a standard cart like this is all I need. I might have gone a bit overboard by getting 100+ made, but the price was right so I said feck it, maybe I'll stick them on my site at some stage or give a few away.

I have Everdrives so I don't even need these. But I like the 1 game 1 cart idea and there's some cool and/or silly hacks out there I definitely want to make up a cart and box with artwork for (Fat Sonic for one 😀)

Edit:

I thought they might look cool in a white case. Nope, better in original black.

Forgive the state of my workbench / coffee table but successfully modded my PAL N64 last night for full RGB Scart output using Tim Worthington's N64RGB 3.0 mod board.

Had a few issues with it and once thinking that I had accidentally killed the DENC-NUS on board but I managed to get it going again as I had just accidentally lifted a few pins.

Bit difficult to do as you need to solder directly to the legs on the DENC-NUS chip (and it's *so easy* to bridge those legs in such a small area) but all in all worth it and the picture quality towards the end is amazing.

Didn't want to faff with the controller shortcuts for enabling / disabling deblur so I installed a physical switch for that instead and only mutilated the case for it a little bit.

Appears to work well though!

Ah cool, hard to see the bevel in the pics.

The flash is handy to have available as EEPROM are getting tougher to find - at least good ones anyway.

Nicely done! Really coming along with your modding skills.

The guy who installed that on my N64 put the deblur switch on the bottom of the case.

I didn't actually realise it was there until I tried installing my N64DD and they wouldn't fit together properly. Ended up breaking the switch off! 😂

After the chassis making 2 trips over to Grant in the UK I now have a working Egret 3 as of tonight. When I got the chassis back the first time all I was getting was a clicking sound and no picture at all. Lots of testing and trying suggestions from Grant, but no joy. Sent it back to him and all that was wrong was the horizontal output transistor was shorted for some reason. An easy fix, but expensive with shipping again to the UK. Anyway, all is well now and the picture is better than ever.

Of course all they want to play is Spyro on the PS1 emulator :0/

Has anyone here made custom video cables? Looking for good shielded cables with multiple internal wired for assorted video lines.

Got a question for folks.

Got any tips for calibrating the CRT? The picture looks great but the blacks seem to be much more... grey than they used to be. Like the screen is too bright.

I've adjusted the "screen" pot as much as I can along with the brightness pot on the remote board but I just can't seem to get the blacks to look... black. Does anyone know what I mean by this or am I being silly?

Dug out my Famicom which might have had a wrong PSU plugged into it once, casing was in good condition but mainboard was kaput.

Many weeks later, another Famicom arrived with its case in not great condition but at least its working! I ordered up a replacement power/AV board from a lad in Ukraine. I think it was less than 10euro shipped. It does require a small mod to the case but ho-hum, composite'ness and it can now take a center pin positive power adapter from 7V~17V :D should be super safe from now on.

Tbh, I didn't think it would arrive - it took a good but of backwards/forwards via Telegram, bit of an effort to send the lad funds (card2card transfers are popular there, but I think only being considered here)...and yea know, the war.

I got a later version of the board from the lad, it has an option of a second set of composite outputs rather than an option for a smaller ballel jack power connector or micro-USB power input. Maybe useful for someone who'd want to stream the horror of composite?