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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,016 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    I replaced the battery in this GC yesterday in a hurry (was on one of THOSE Teams calls so I had 20 mins). And snapped this pic, but now all I can see is the crappy soldering I did on the Picoboot a few months back. Look at the green wire!!

    My excuse is my eyesight. I needed to get a second pair of glasses for this sort of work.

    Was tempted to fix it, but talked myself down since it works but it's stressing me out!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,719 ✭✭✭geotrig


    dab it in hot glue and it'll be grand a connection is a connection !



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Make sure you use enough hotglue just to be sure




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,016 ✭✭✭Colonel Panic


    Why not encase it in resin and be done with it! :D



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,432 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe




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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,196 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    Jaysus... That poor GameCube!


    So I've had my Amiga 500 apart since recapping it a few months ago.


    Finally upgraded my retrobriting setup as the last 5v setup I had was too weak and took days.


    I also somehow managed to cause the yellowing process on the LEDs themselves too somehow so that the UV light wasn't even being generated anymore.


    Took delivery of (and quickly took apart) a 50w LED panel and mounted it inside the box with some high tech electrical tape.


    Behold: some retro is being brited:


    It's ghetto... But it works.


    I've also made sure that nothing is accidentally live with 230v and so far although the uv panel is generating heat the tinfoil backing is acting as a heatsink.


    It *shouldn't* catch on fire anyway...



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,467 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Nice. Keep an eye on your peroxide cream with the heat of the uv light...it can dry out fast.

    Speaking of retrobrite, if using the immersion method, how are people managing key caps (keeping them submerged and upright)?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    The last time I had to do key caps I 3D printed a key cap holder designed specifically for this task. There are a few versions on thingiverse for the various keyboard types.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,467 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Interesting, it'll be something I look at doing in the next few months (A1200 possibly) and have always wondered about keeping keycaps sitting properly when submerged. Cheers Steve



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Not my pic, but it was a slightly different version of this one. Print it, add something heavy to make sure it stays submerged and attach keys.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3564637




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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,432 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    3D printers really are coming into their own aren't they? literally able to print something at home to solve a super obscure problem that in no way would ever be manufactured.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Definitely yeah. It's a useful thing to have these days for home, hobby and work stuff. Every new hobby I start there always seems to be something I can use 3D printing for in it. A surprising source of good extra income as well from time to time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    3d printers are brilliant but also a total utter pain in the arse... unless you're willing to invest the time (and money) into them.

    I've had mine 3 years I think and printed loads of crappy stuff from Thingyverse and just 2 things I designed myself in Fusion 360, used to infrequently that it needs a good bit of tweaking to get right every time I go to use it and the filament go off if not stored correctly.. So its up for sale (well sold but not collected yet). Maybe I'll get another in the future when they've matured a bit more or I've mature a bit more and have time to invest...



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Well things have come a long way already. But if you're buying Creality and the like then you will probably need to invest time and effort to get the results you want. But things like the Bambu labs x1 and p1p series of printers have seriously given the industry the kick it needs to start innovating again with 3D printer design, cost and ease of use. They have the big boys worried and that's for sure. You should check them out to see the way things are heading.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Ya its a Creality Ender 5 I've got with several upgrades fitted, works fine once dialed-in but this takes time... certainly not the turnkey pop in a sd card & print solutions they're made out to be.

    Anyway mines got a new owner this weekend, so I'll just go back to buying prints when needed.

    Edit: Those Bambu printers do look excellent and seem to solve a lot of problems but at a cost.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭Doge


    Just wanted to say thank you for indirectly helping me ID an arcade game I played on the Vic (Victoria Sporting Club) in Cork City that I have been trying to find for years.

    As well as Airline Pilot, they had a a

    air combat game which I think is Sega Strike Fighter which also used the Naomi system.

    They would have had it in the late 90's I think.

    If anyone who frequented that arcade could confirm it, it would be great!

    @kevin2me can you remember?




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,215 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Yeah, I've replaced 2 of the Prusa MK3S+ printers in my print farm with Bambu X1's and they are doing the work of 5 or 6 printers with parts I print for a pharmaceutical lab I supply. Don't get me wrong, the MK3S+ is a proven reliable printer with top notch support(and fully open source), and reliability is key when printing 24/7 with 30+ printers.

    But Bambuu labs has a lot of eyes on them to see what happens next. I've seen hundreds of ads in the various 3D printing groups over the last month alone with people selling up their Prusa machines to replace with Bambu. Interesting times :)



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,196 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    Having a 3d printer at home is dead handy for this stuff, ngl.


    Still need to give that Amiga and keys another coat of peroxide and to figure out a better method of mounting the uv block of LEDs as the heat keeps causing the glue on the tape to get too hot and it falls off 🤣


    Might try sugrú next.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,215 ✭✭✭KeRbDoG


    Sugru has saved me replacing a fridge/freezer when the hinge of the freezer box broke off with no chance of glueing. Still going strong at whatever temp a fridge sits at for the past 3~ years :D I've also used it to repair holes in a NeoGeo AES system I had which was modified with a JAMMA adapter. Works a treat.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,848 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I've used Sugru on stuff that was about 150-160c and it held up for years. It wasn't a constant temp, but maybe hot for a couple of hours everyday.



  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    Which screen kit for my GBA (AGB-001 model) should I be going for, bearing in mind that I'm all thumbs? Forgot how dark and murky the oem one is.

    Online reviews of kits vary widely - not sure how many "bad" reviews of stuff is folks making an ar$e of it!

    Ta!


    M.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,467 ✭✭✭Inviere


    One of the laminated IPS drop in kits should do nicely. Funny Playing make nice kits, I've one in my Gameboy Color



  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    Gracias!

    Ordered. (And case. And bracket. And screen)

    My eyes will be grateful!


    M.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,196 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    All hail Sugrú!



  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    Arrived and fitted. A cracking job, compared to the OEM screen.

    As a kit it was a pile of poo though, no longer comes with things like insulating tape and spacers, double sided mounting stuff was mirrored (meaning both sides had to have the protective tape removed to fit to the shell, made it fiddly)

    But my inner MacGyver prevailed.





  • Registered Users Posts: 7,467 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Legit funny playing kit? I'm surprised to hear the kit accessories were so lacking. Where did you order it from?



  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    Handheld legends (I'm in the US)

    No insulation for back of screen, no double sided tape to secure ribbon cable, no spacers, screen mount double tape mirrored (one side of the peel away wasn't scored/cut, so both peel aways had to be removed to fit to the shell, if that makes sense)


    Actual parts were good quality. Funny games IPS v2.

    ETA links

    https://handheldlegend.com/products/game-boy-advance-gba-ips-funnyplaing-v2?variant=31583104630918

    M.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,467 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Interesting, when I bought a kit for my GBC I bought direct from funny playing via Ali express, and didn't have any issues like that. Glad you got it sorted, looks great!



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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,196 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    Speaking of 3D printers... finally got around to modding the Dreamcast with the Noctua fan mod.


    Printed out the fan shroud above and all fits ok... so far so good...


    Snipped the fan connector and joined it to the original connector with a 10k resistor between the 5v and signal line. So far so good right? Erh... not quite. Went to put it all back together and the damn RF shield / heat sink was blocking the actual fan. Turns out I have one of those weird VA1 models that still has the original Japanese metal fan and shroud from their VA0 model. So... time to break out the dremel!


    Started cutting then realised that it was like... 11pm at the time so probably a bit too loud to be doing that at night for the neighbours below and to either side of me.

    So waited until the next morning and got it shaved off although forgot to take a picture.


    Got the new drive cover clasp printed out too (a few times I might add as finding the appropriate size for my third part shell was a bit challenging). Had to break out the dremel for that too as the fit was kinda tight but a sanding stone bit quickly sorted that out.

    Video demo here:



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