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The Reseeding/Stitching Discussion Thread.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,142 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Cavanjack wrote: »
    As reggie said the grass is worn out. It grows a lot of stem with no real soul to it. The old man never remembers it ploughed but said his father said it was ploughed. Old man is 75.

    If it's any help. Seaweed foliar slows or stops grass going to stem and heading out.
    My biggest problem with using it here is getting silage ground to stem and head.
    My theory is the grass goes to stem and head when it's stressed. When it's fed with the nutrient rich foliar it's too comfortable to stem and head.

    I'm finding for grazing ground. You spray on roughly five days before the grass is fit for grazing in rotation. The leaf is green and big enough to take it in then and goes into the plant and roots. Graze your stock. On off quick. Wait again for the regrowth to be five days off grazing in the rotation and repeat.

    I'm putting molasses in with the seaweed. From previous without the molasses, it does add extra.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,852 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Reseed it. It owes you nothing. At index 4 itll throw out some serious amount of high quality grass.
    We reseeded the last permanent pasture sward here at the weekend, cows would go back in milk and solids after grazing it aswell as it not being able to grow big tonnes of grass.

    2 bags of 10 10 20 will be enough to help get it established


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,559 ✭✭✭Cavanjack


    Reseed it. It owes you nothing. At index 4 itll throw out some serious amount of high quality grass.
    We reseeded the last permanent pasture sward here at the weekend, cows would go back in milk and solids after grazing it aswell as it not being able to grow big tonnes of grass.

    2 bags of 10 10 20 will be enough to help get it established

    Yeah have it sprayed off. My thinking is to get the most fertile ground growing well first before working on the poorer ones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,147 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    The nature of any plant is to regenerate. Thus it's aim is to go to seed. For grass, which naturally grows in a seasonal climate, that is before the longest day of the year. After that date, unless it's stressed as Say My Name says then it won't.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,098 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    This is a paddock I reseeded in April. I mixed plantain, chicory and clover with the grass seed.
    I decided to go with that mix as my own little trial more so than any financial reason. I didn't spray off the maize stubble before I harrowed it.
    I just went in with a tine harrow and then a one pass. There's a few weeds through it like red dead nettle and an odd thistle. Grazed once so far and heifers are going back in tomorrow.

    I'm interested in trying a mix like this too. What were the reasons you chose those species? Is it your own custom mix or from a supplier?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    Cavanjack wrote: »
    Yeah have it sprayed off. My thinking is to get the most fertile ground growing well first before working on the poorer ones.

    I'd be thinking along the opposite lines:)

    The fertile ground will always grow good quantities of grass. The less fertile ground will see a huge change in the amount grown with just a small investment in fertility in the shape of lime and compound fertilisers like 18:6:12 and 27:2.5:5 to increase their indexes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    I'd be thinking along the opposite lines:)

    The fertile ground will always grow good quantities of grass. The less fertile ground will see a huge change in the amount grown with just a small investment in fertility in the shape of lime and compound fertilisers like 18:6:12 and 27:2.5:5 to increase their indexes.

    Same here. The index 4 would be the last I’d be doing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,080 ✭✭✭AntrimGlens


    Planning on a bit of reseeding here. I didn't spray it with glysophate before cutting it for silage as the weather was just too broken and i couldn't accurately say when I'd get it cut and baled. Anyway I got it baled on sunday and am planning on leaving it green up for about a fortnight or until i see docks start to come through and spray it off then with mcpa.
    My issue is that it's getting late enough into the season and I've had bother before with leatherjackets when reseeding runs into September.

    So my question is, should I add Dursban or something else to kill any larvae/leatherjackets when I spray it off or wait until post emergence spray and spray for leatherjackets then? My concern is that if it rains much after the reseed I might not get a chance to apply a post emergence spray and the leatherjackets wreak havoc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Planning on a bit of reseeding here. I didn't spray it with glysophate before cutting it for silage as the weather was just too broken and i couldn't accurately say when I'd get it cut and baled. Anyway I got it baled on sunday and am planning on leaving it green up for about a fortnight or until i see docks start to come through and spray it off then with mcpa.
    My issue is that it's getting late enough into the season and I've had bother before with leatherjackets when reseeding runs into September.

    So my question is, should I add Dursban or something else to kill any larvae/leatherjackets when I spray it off or wait until post emergence spray and spray for leatherjackets then? My concern is that if it rains much after the reseed I might not get a chance to apply a post emergence spray and the leatherjackets wreak havoc.
    Best time to spray would be after killing off and before cultivating


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,080 ✭✭✭AntrimGlens


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Best time to spray would be after killing off and before cultivating

    Thanks Reggie. So would you leave it a week say after spraying with MCPA and then go in with Durbsan or something similar?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Thanks Reggie. So would you leave it a week say after spraying with MCPA and then go in with Durbsan or something similar?

    That I'm not too sure about


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,261 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Thanks Reggie. So would you leave it a week say after spraying with MCPA and then go in with Durbsan or something similar?

    Dursban is off the market with over a decade.
    There are pellets available for slugs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,350 ✭✭✭Tomjim


    I'd be thinking along the opposite lines:)

    The fertile ground will always grow good quantities of grass. The less fertile ground will see a huge change in the amount grown with just a small investment in fertility in the shape of lime and compound fertilisers like 18:6:12 and 27:2.5:5 to increase their indexes.

    How much 18/6/12 and 27/2.5/5 would be needed per year to bring up the index
    By applying 1 bag per acre bring it up or would you need something like 4 bags per year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,070 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Tomjim wrote: »
    How much 18/6/12 and 27/2.5/5 would be needed per year to bring up the index
    By applying 1 bag per acre bring it up or would you need something like 4 bags per year.

    To maintain indexes here, we put out two bags of 18 6 12/acre per year and we have a high stocking rate.
    To bring up the indexes I'd spread Three bags/acre 0 10 20 or 0 7 30 around early September, too much potash and phosphorous in the spring can trigger grass tetany also it'll be ready to work for early grass. your nitrogen use will vary according to your stocking rate


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    Tomjim wrote: »
    How much 18/6/12 and 27/2.5/5 would be needed per year to bring up the index
    By applying 1 bag per acre bring it up or would you need something like 4 bags per year.

    As wrangler said, it's going to take a few years. First job is to get the pH sorted, it'll give a better response to all fertiliser used.

    The way we're going here is blanket spreading P in April with straight P or 2 bags of 18:6:12 and something like pasture sward after each grazing. The P put in early is available through the year and taken up in the organic matter and less likely to leach out.

    K will be topped up when possible in the paddocks as they're closed for winter as that's the safest time for cows and relatively quiet time to do it.

    Basically you have to put in more P and K than you're taking off and doing it for a number of years. And it's not cheap but you will grow and harvest more grass. Just keep an eye on your N and P limits and target slurry back to the ground you take silage from.


  • Registered Users Posts: 126 ✭✭K9


    Anyone use mastercrop undersown as a post emergence spray?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    Sprayed off a bit of silage on Tuesday this week with view to reseeding via stitching with gutler.

    Obviously weather has played puck since. Will cut it first chance I see if it is turning but that’s going to be Monday/Tuesday realistically.

    Any issues with the grass being left for a few days afterwards given it’s burned off and the forecast looks very wet for next week again. Silage is planned for cows.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Sprayed off a bit of silage on Tuesday this week with view to reseeding via stitching with gutler.

    Obviously weather has played puck since. Will cut it first chance I see if it is turning but that’s going to be Monday/Tuesday realistically.

    Any issues with the grass being left for a few days afterwards given it’s burned off and the forecast looks very wet for next week again. Silage is planned for cows.

    Not sure I do know that the rule states the 7th day anyways


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    This is for NHG. You'll notice the difference in the two guttler gearboxes that I was trying to explain to you.

    Apologies for not putting the rates up yesterday as I was out and about


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,381 ✭✭✭MfMan


    Anyone use DB Plus for weed control in existing pasture rather than a new reseed? Would it be too strong for it? Want to spray a second-cut field for weeds, docks particularly, but unsure if it would do more harm than good...


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,941 ✭✭✭alps


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Sprayed off a bit of silage on Tuesday this week with view to reseeding via stitching with gutler.

    Obviously weather has played puck since. Will cut it first chance I see if it is turning but that’s going to be Monday/Tuesday realistically.

    Any issues with the grass being left for a few days afterwards given it’s burned off and the forecast looks very wet for next week again. Silage is planned for cows.

    If its standing dry for the mower, bale it immediately..

    Its wilting since Tuesday...shouldn't think ot needs more..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX




  • Registered Users Posts: 583 ✭✭✭jd06


    Dunedin wrote: »
    Sprayed off a bit of silage on Tuesday this week with view to reseeding via stitching with gutler.

    Obviously weather has played puck since. Will cut it first chance I see if it is turning but that’s going to be Monday/Tuesday realistically.

    Any issues with the grass being left for a few days afterwards given it’s burned off and the forecast looks very wet for next week again. Silage is planned for cows.


    I'm like you I sprayed off the silage this morning but it rained one hour later
    Would Friday be to long to leave it with all the rain is forecast
    And my other question is will the spray still work after getting the rain)soft rain)


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    jd06 wrote: »
    I'm like you I sprayed off the silage this morning but it rained one hour later
    Would Friday be to long to leave it with all the rain is forecast
    And my other question is will the spray still work after getting the rain)soft rain)

    Should be ok of you got the hour

    Think it has to be left the 7 days before cutting


  • Registered Users Posts: 575 ✭✭✭Farmer_3650


    Got a farm off a granduncle last year which was neglected for many years. One field in particular is very bad with wheel tracks where he used to bring bales of silage out to cattle in winter time 15-20 years ago. I want to reseed it next year, and was wondering what is the best way to get the land level for reseeding. Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Got a farm off a granduncle last year which was neglected for many years. One field in particular is very bad with wheel tracks where he used to bring bales of silage out to cattle in winter time 15-20 years ago. I want to reseed it next year, and was wondering what is the best way to get the land level for reseeding. Thanks.
    Either fill in the tracks with soil, disc harrow the hell outta them or plough them out


  • Registered Users Posts: 575 ✭✭✭Farmer_3650


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Either fill in the tracks with soil, disc harrow the hell outta them or plough them out

    Would sowing a crop like kale etc. for a year make it easier to get the field level for reseeding the follwing year?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,611 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    Plough. Soil test everywhere as well


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,370 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Would sowing a crop like kale etc. for a year make it easier to get the field level for reseeding the follwing year?

    It would and maybe place the round feeder near the ruts so the cattle do the work

    Bit late in the year for kale tho


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  • Registered Users Posts: 575 ✭✭✭Farmer_3650


    Reggie. wrote: »
    It would and maybe place the round feeder near the ruts so the cattle do the work

    Bit late in the year for kale tho

    Ah ya it’ll be next year before I do anything anyways, Currently fencing up the land and having it ready. Thanks.


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